jarvismb

Chokebot?

I'm really a fan of the sprocket idea over the wheel, but as people have said, I like the way the text is presented in the last logo of the first set. If this jew were in charge, I'd use the sprocket design from the bottom set with the text wrapping from the last logo in the first set.

I'm liking the direction you took with the dog. Moving away from the angry faces and bulldogs is a good idea. Besides the cliche portion, the one you have now feels more like a shop dog. Just the same quiet, stoic confidence I would want in a mechanic is how I would view a good shop dog. The logo you have now portrays that very well, and it's a smart move, in my opinion.

Another orange/red vote.

This thread is nothing if not entertaining.

I have damn near the same bike with LED's all over the place, and I know this issue very well. You should listen to the guy from Independent (Justin still?), he has the right answer. You're missing the load resistors.

If you attach the LEDs and THEY APPEAR TO BE ON ALL THE TIME, BUT ARE JUST PULSING REALLY FAST IF YOU LOOK CAREFULLY, then you have a resistor missing. The timer for the flash circuit is based off of an expected voltage and current draw, and when you change it, the circuit gets all Tom Brady and shits the bed.

The resistor must be in parallel with the LEDs, and it's going to be bigger (in terms of size) and get hotter than you might think. I built mine from big load resistors we had lying around the labs, but you should be able to get power resistors at Radio Shack.

Again, you're missing the load resistor. I've seen it on my CBR before. Put it in correctly and you'll be fine.

are you planning on using an illuminated frame or the tripage hugger with LED's in it by chance?

I use the Tripage LED hugger for my plate and it's bright as all hell. If anyone were to complain about not being able to see it, I'd have to file a formal complaint about their vision. It's now out of the way but still easier to see at night than a stock CBR.

I actually asked a Springboro officer about it before I put it on, just to see if (in his opinion) an officer would pull me over for it, and he said it looked just fine to him. I realize this is by no means a court-worthy approval, I just wanted to know that at least one cop out there thought this was a good solution. I tend to think this is on of the best solutions on the CBRs.

"just take the car, they got me the wrong one anyway!"

"yea, it's a fucking tragedy..."

well done, sir.

What does the cartoonish mascot version of a cunt look like?

:yourmomjoke:

ok guys, just went through my info again, and the Remington book, the Lee Book, and the Hodgden site all say that various 55gr rounds should range:

Start-MAX

----------------------

25.0-27.8 (Remington)

24.9-27.5 (LEE)

25.5-27.5 (Hodgden)

So now I'm thinking that my loads are ok. Granted these loads are for FMJ/Spire-Point rounds, but I assume that as long as it's not frangible/SinterFire I should be ok with my ballistic-tips, right? Can anyone check their books/sources and tell me if I'm crazy?

This is why I checked on here with people that have done this, before I go loading these into my pricey shiny rifle. It's a lot easier to remake the loads than my AR.

It is a bit disappointing to see the Remington reloading bible I was using was totally wrong on this. I'm looking at it now and it calls for a starting load of 25.0 grains of Varget on 55gr bullets, with a max load of 27.8 grains. According to this, I would have blown up my rifle in no time.

Sounds like a better plan.

Thanks again for the heads up.

Dammit, I was afraid of that.

We got a ton of info that put Varget all over the map, and most of them put the range from 25-27, and only one put them lower (the Hodgden site). I was skeptical to go higher, but a friend told me being in the 25s would be safe, but I didn't know. I'll pull them and redo it.

Better to do it twice than mess it up. Thanks.

Looking good. If you ever make it to Cbus and want to crono your load to determine velocity, let me know.

FYI. Obviously fire is a no no in the reloading room but the 1 thing that most people dont buy, but should have but should buys is a fire extinguisher to keep close by.

Those 52 grain amax?

That's a great offer and some sound advice. I'd love to come out for one of those group shoots like last year now that I have something to test. I admit I hadn't thought about the extinguisher, but now that you mention it, I can't believe I didn't have that earlier. Thanks for the tip, I'll be doing that.

The recipe so far is:

Winchester Brass

CCI 400 Primers

Hodgden Varget - 25.9 grains

Nosler Ballistic Tip - 55gr boat tail

C.O.L. - 2.205"

Note to self:

Charging die may appear harmless, but is way more intense in person.

Please set to proper height before use.

Well, round one is over, and I've learned a lot.

Most importantly, I've learned that 99% of the time, reloading works every time....

It was Kawi Kid.

It had a deer painted on it.

'jinu likes men' is on the list.

I am Jack's complete lack of surprise.

I'm mostly interested in good food that isn't a chain and is kid/family friendly.

My presence will negate this, regardless of venue. Plan accordingly.

Wherever we decide, if it's in Dayton, I just may show up for once. Maybe I could even get that swingarm from Ben? Maybe buy him a beer for holding on to it for 2 YEARS BECAUSE I'M AN IDIOT.

was that out loud?

What if I support f#*%@(g censorship?

Think about the children.

Cool idea.....Looks like it was furnished at Goodwill.

You need the camfer tool for after you trim the brass to remove the nasty edges trimming creates. Camfering the outside of the necks is so you dont scratch the chamber, cut yourself, smooth extraction, etc. , Camfering the inside of of the necks is so you dont scratch up the jacket of the bullet as well as to provide easier seating when seating the bullet.

You need to do both after you trim.

Youre going to learn really quick how brass prep sucks.... get ready for some sore fingers..

I assumed something like this from reading about the steps, but it's nice to have it all spelled out. Thanks again.

I imagine this will be tedious, but if my hands get sore, I'll just have jbot do it, since he's got popeye arms for obvious reasons...

Anywhere that has a good deal. Just remember when buying powder/primers online you will have to pay an additional $20 Hazmat charge for shipping.

For local places, Fin,Feather,Fur has the best supply of reloading supplies I have found in the entire state and the prices are not that bad.

I tend to order stuff when one of my friends puts together a group buy or dealer buy. Bulk .223 bullets are cheap. I paid $77.77 for 1K of 55gr FMJ the last order I was apart of. Basically breaks down to $7.77 per/100

Im guessing this is what you meant by the case depth gauge/trimmer (i.e. the longer silver rod looking thing) FYI. Make sure you get a camfer tool and primer pocket cleaner.

I was hoping someone would mention a local place, so I'll check out how accessible FFnF is, and maybe set up a trip. Thanks for the tip.

As for the picture, yes, that's exactly the set of tools I got. I read somewhere that I would need the chamfer tool and the pocket cleaner, but I wasn't sure. They weren't expensive, so I just went ahead and got it to be safe, and since you also back that statement, I'm glad I did. Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it.

Perfect. Put him in a room with the police dogs and tell him he's free to go as soon as he eats them.

Problem solves itself.

I would love to find one some time and take it for examination.

Just make one.

Use this

And hook it up to a CPLD with some flash, then take it when it's full. Card reader, yay! Shit, I have dev boards in my office right now that would do this if I just bought that scanner head and wrote some VHDL for it.

Where do you guys buy your consumables (powder/primers/bullets)?