ReconRat

Way back when I was a teen on a CB160, I watched two big bikes in front of me stop at a light on an oil slick. Standing still, one went down, and the other guy laughed at him, just before he went down too. I decided to go WAY around them in the opposing lanes. Downtown Columbus.

Been talking to him a little bit. He bought that one, and has 3 others. He said: "another 900 duke a 1977 kwaka Z650 and just about to ride across Oz on my 2015 Harley low rider"

Apparently there's a guy in Australia with the same name as mine, and I get his emails in error sometimes. Got this pic, it looks like he wants to buy an Aussie bike. I've seen worse emails in error, 0o.

I painted professionally during summers in college. Trim means two things. One is trim the walls first prior to rolling. Always done. The other is the trim woodwork adjacent to the painted walls. It never mattered to me which was done first, unless I could see some obvious reason to do one before the other. A typical reason would be if the wall color and the trim color were different, then would do the wall first, because of possible spatter on the trim below. So yes, mostly did walls first, wood trim below done later, if a difference in paint. Exception is both the same color, then trim the walls for the roller and the adjacent trim all at the same time, with the same paint. edit: I can't even remember ever using painter's tape. We rarely used anything smaller than a 4 inch brush and an 18 inch roller. Bathrooms used 9 or 12 inch roller. Speed counts.

She's doing ok. Gets to see lots of places and neat stuff.

That will work. Some of the fluids are listed on another page. A typical 40% reduction is proper, except for very slippery fluids like graphite. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

The sad part about those hex head fastener replacement kits, is that many of them were stainless steel. Which when installed, in contact with aluminum, causes the aluminum to rot away, from the dielectric potential between the two metals. I remember putting stainless hardware on an aluminum license plate, only to see huge holes appear in the aluminum, and ruining the license plate. Even with plain steel, I'd dip them in primer paint, or loctite, or something, to slow it down. That was the technique in aerospace assembly. Dip the mismatched fasteners in zinc oxide primer before installing them. Or even for same metal assembly. Saw it mostly done for rivets in aluminum structure. edit: also remember putting one of those aluminum company parking stickers on a chrome bumper, and having the sticker burn a square hole right through the chrome and steel bumper. Did not expect that... re-edit: putting fluids on fasteners will alter the torque requirements. I don't remember the details. Another something to look up.

Yup, I keep reading that is the test. Fit the blade in the hardware, and it holds itself up, it's that much of a fit improvement. Throwback story... Back before people realized the difference. When people mushed up case fasteners frequently, I'd use a little metal drift and hammer the fastener kinda closed. Those old fasteners were rather soft anyway. And then hammer in an impact driver bit for a tight fit. That worked almost every time, but you have to throw the fastener away.

ok, just bought these, since most impact stuff is done on #2 and #3. A set of two metal ratcheting screwdrivers from Vessel that you can hit with a hammer. Rarely got the larger impact drivers out anyway for much of anything, unless it got mushed up or stuck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZK6V1GQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I also have a Reed #2 screwdriver, which is only used in rare situations in aviation.... And some mini sets of tiny tools, that are JIS, for working on Japanese electronics. If you've ever worked on Sony, or a Japanese camera, you have to have those.

This will be confusing to discuss... From what I've seen, while looking at JIS screwdriver sets, the standards have changed once again. JIS screwdrivers might not be marked or sold any longer as JIS. The JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) for them was discontinued, due to newer production methods that supposedly work for all fasteners that look like Phillips. But the JIS standard still applies to the production of the JIS hardware itself. Supposedly. What I think happens, is that regular Phillips still don't fit some hardware very well, some times. To add to the confusion, there is a newer standard, that might or might not be used in manufacturing. DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8763-1. All I get out of the new standard, is that it is very close to the old JIS. Adding to the confusion, motorcycle manufacturing might use the old JIS hardware, or the newer, maybe, or maybe not. What will remain true, is that if you run across a sloppy fit, which is most likely the old hardware (or perhaps even the newest standards), you will need either the JIS or the DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8763-1 screwdriver. Especially if you own an older bike, like before 1980 or certainly 1970. Here's a bit of a forum article that compares the Phillips vs. JIS vs. DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8763-1 And this, from WebBikeWorld on the subject, where the comments are worth reading. Although they were completely confused by the situation as well. And I think Hosan JIS screwdriver sets are junk. I suspect the current Vessel sets will work for just about everything. The Vessel sets are no longer advertised as being JIS. I have older JIS screwdrivers, and a JIS T-handle bit set that the bits work with the impact driver. I just picked up what I hope is old stock JIS Vessel, for a "yankee" right angle bit ratchet, and a handle with 4 reversible JIS bits. Much of what appears to be the "old" JIS is going out of stock.

Don't know if this has ever been posted, but I ran into it while browsing RoadRunner's Bucket List Roads. A map and Garmin for Southern Ohio motorcycle roads of interest from AthensOhio Windy9 website: http://athensohio.com/category/where-to-play/ohios-windy-9/

lol, 555 isn't historically a road, it's the descendant of a wagon trail built of logs that ran from Zanesville to the Ohio River. Speed limit was probably single digit. I still like it, but don't believe any of the signage that's there. Multiple signs in a turn means "everyone wrecks here anyway" and is not likely a normal turn in a road. Think horses and wagons... I was also impressed by some of the blind turns in the road where you couldn't see it, after topping over a rise you didn't know was there. One in particular (North-bound) would have launched from the peak in the road and over the top of a house trailer and off down into a meadow valley.

lol, there's still 4k left in those...

lol, some cheap mask reduces virus by 65%. Yes, if you get the right one, that's possible. Unfortunately there is a wide variety, from an even wider number of producers, mostly foreign sourced, and they mostly all look the same. For a while 50% to 100% of any mask sold were rejected when tested for government purchases. The actual effectiveness can range from 0-5% up to a rare maximum of 65%. So true, but it's a gamble. As well as the price has been jacked up 5 to 10 times what they used to sell for, which is annoying.