ReconRat

In any given chain size, there are different material strengths, and different designs. You should use the master link from the list shown with the specific type of chain. Obviously a lesser strength master link on a stronger chain, will snap the master link rather quickly.

http://www.didchain.com/

http://www.didchain.com/specs.htm

http://www.didchain.com/install.htm

On the other hand, I used to use whatever, and broke chains all the time. A set of 2 full links(clip type), and two half links(clip type) in your toolkit, will usually let you limp home after picking up all the pieces of your broken chain and re-assembling it.

Way to go, Marine. Glad you're back and safe. Thank You for your service. Wonder if you'd stayed a bit longer, if you might have received a "Georgia Campaign ribbon", and the combat pay, of course. Heck, if you were there in the same month of August, you still might get it. Check and see if any of the pilots or transports claimed enemy fire, all on board get combat pay. Ha!

here we go, help from the Ohio DMV website on mopeds;

http://www.dmv.org/oh-ohio/other-types.php

and an Ohio DMV list of the models considered mopeds;

In the case of manufacturers who market more than one model, only models listed below are approved by the State of Ohio. Only vehicles on this list may legally be operated as "mopeds" in Ohio.

Apparently a moped still needs a plate on it, I didn't know that.

And it looks like... if it's not on the list, it's gonna be stuck riding around in the backyard. And I bet there's a law about that too...

There is a "clearance" display to the left when you go in Iron Pony. Some fieldSheer backpack for $39.95. I don't think that is a price break for that. I thought those sold for about that price anyway. Seems to me my 10 buck surplus backpack is just as good. Dunno

It probably is under the limits. Please let your friend know what the Ohio Revised Code rules of a "moped" actually are.

CHAPTER 4501: MOTOR VEHICLES -- DEFINITIONS; GENERAL PROVISIONS

4501.01 Motor vehicles definitions.

(L) “Motorized bicycle†means any vehicle that either has two tandem wheels or one wheel in the front and two wheels in the rear, that is capable of being pedaled, and that is equipped with a helper motor of not more than fifty cubic centimeters piston displacement that produces no more than one brake horsepower and is capable of propelling the vehicle at a speed of no greater than twenty miles per hour on a level surface.

4511.01 Traffic laws - operation of motor vehicles definitions.

© “Motorcycle†means every motor vehicle, other than a tractor, having a saddle for the use of the operator and designed to travel on not more than three wheels in contact with the ground, including, but not limited to, motor vehicles known as “motor-driven cycle,†“motor scooter,†or “motorcycle†without regard to weight or brake horsepower.

(H) “Motorized bicycle†means any vehicle having either two tandem wheels or one wheel in the front and two wheels in the rear, that is capable of being pedaled and is equipped with a helper motor of not more than fifty cubic centimeters piston displacement that produces no more than one brake horsepower and is capable of propelling the vehicle at a speed of no greater than twenty miles per hour on a level surface.

4511.521 Operation of motorized bicycles.

(A) No person shall operate a motorized bicycle upon a highway or any public or private property used by the public for purposes of vehicular travel or parking, unless all of the following conditions are met:

(1) The person is fourteen or fifteen years of age and holds a valid probationary motorized bicycle license issued after the person has passed the test provided for in this section, or the person is sixteen years of age or older and holds either a valid commercial driver’s license issued under Chapter 4506. or a driver’s license issued under Chapter 4507. of the Revised Code or a valid motorized bicycle license issued after the person has passed the test provided for in this section, except that if a person is sixteen years of age, has a valid probationary motorized bicycle license and desires a motorized bicycle license, the person is not required to comply with the testing requirements provided for in this section;

(2) The motorized bicycle is equipped in accordance with the rules adopted under division (B) of this section and is in proper working order;

(3) The person, if under eighteen years of age, is wearing a protective helmet on the person’s head with the chin strap properly fastened and the motorized bicycle is equipped with a rear-view mirror.

(4) The person operates the motorized bicycle when practicable within three feet of the right edge of the roadway obeying all traffic rules applicable to vehicles.

(B) The director of public safety, subject to sections 119.01 to 119.13 of the Revised Code, shall adopt and promulgate rules concerning protective helmets, the equipment of motorized bicycles, and the testing and qualifications of persons who do not hold a valid driver’s or commercial driver’s license. The test shall be as near as practicable to the examination required for a motorcycle operator’s endorsement under section 4507.11 of the Revised Code. The test shall also require the operator to give an actual demonstration of the operator’s ability to operate and control a motorized bicycle by driving one under the supervision of an examining officer.

© Every motorized bicycle license expires on the birthday of the applicant in the fourth year after the date it is issued, but in no event shall any motorized bicycle license be issued for a period longer than four years.

(D) No person operating a motorized bicycle shall carry another person upon the motorized bicycle.

(E) The protective helmet and rear-view mirror required by division (A)(3) of this section shall, on and after January 1, 1985, conform with rules adopted by the director under division (B) of this section.

(F) Each probationary motorized bicycle license or motorized bicycle license shall be laminated with a transparent plastic material.

(G) Whoever violates division (A), (D), or (E) of this section is guilty of a minor misdemeanor.

Effective Date: 01-01-2004

Brake Fluid is generally clear, and turns yellow with age, and later brown. Most of the change in color is from absorbing water from the air, the humidity. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water. Water in the brake fluid makes the brake feel "spongy". If I found new brake fluid in a can that was yellow, I'd probably throw it out, and try again.

Dweezel is right, when the fluid goes down, it's generally from the brake pads wearing down. New pads will bring the fluid back up to it's normal level.

Some manufacturers recommend draining and changing DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid every two years. ABS systems need changed more often. Seems like DOT 5 should be changed every year. Not sure.

DOT 3 and 4 are glycol/alcohol fluids, or synthetic. DOT 5 are silicone or synthetic. Synthetic never means 100% synthetic for any fluid. It means a blend. DOT 4 is same as DOT 3 with a higher heat range. DOT 3/4 is telling us it's a compatible replacement for either, it's a DOT 4. DOT 5 is the highest heat range, and is generally a light purple color. IF not sure, take a sample, and mix it with DOT 3 or 4, if it turns into a goop that looks like Italian salad dressing, you have a DOT 5 in there. Changing from DOT 3 or 4 to DOT 5, or back, means dis-assembling the entire system and removing the "other fluid". They cannot be mixed together. Seals might be effected by the change of fluid type, it depends on the type of seal material. In aircraft brake systems, mixing the two together can cause a fire in the fluid or brake systems. DOT 5 fluids do not absorb water, which means if and when water gets in there, it finds a place to park, and corrode the metal. Not a good thing in a brake system. Probably the best reason to change DOT 5 every year. So in other words, use what the owner's manual recommends, and change it more often. Changing it when installing new pads, or when the fluid changes color, is also a good idea.

Edit: Just noticed the DOT 5.1, which is a glycol/alcohol fluid of even higher heat range. New to me. Not to be confused with DOT 5, the silicone type. Sounds like something I'll be looking into.

a reference: http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/cows-brakefluid.html

I'd seriously look at high quality after-market spring sets. Mostly because Honda is not known for their spring quality, and I'll migrate that over to the other Japanese bikes. Any that I have tried, I've been more than happy with. I have nothing against stock parts, it's one of the best choices. It's just that sometimes there is something better. If it's high force springs, better check the clutch cable, lube everything up, and carry a spare. I used to put a new one on, and keep the old one right there in the same place, tied down, ready to go, if I needed it.

The point is... when you clutch it in, the springs compress, and the noise goes away. When let out, the springs rely upon a tiny bit of nearly un-sprung force to hold things together. When weak, they won't do that very well. So did you spec the springs when they were out? Inspection, overall unsprung height check, and test on a spring compression checking tool. Beware that some springs do not like to be fully compressed, and can be damaged.

I hate to say most problems are the last thing worked on, but it's often the case. Me included. When you did the clutch, did you opt out for new clutch springs? Did you at least keep them all in the same place and same order? Clutch springs often get weak and need new ones, or get scrambled and get cranky. Sounds a little like clutch chatter, which in my book gets blamed on the springs, providing everything else is ok. It only takes one weak spring to mess things up. Double check those part numbers also, to make sure it was the right friction plates. Sometimes there are small differences betweens years of one model. I don't know your bike that well, but it's that way with some Hondas.

The smoke coming out is probably normal, it's cooking down in there, after all. Check some other bikes and see what they are doing. Since the engine is running, the back sides of the pistons are pumping air back and forth. As well as the gear clusters.

Oil leak, yes, clean or replace gasket. If that's where a shaft turns, check the oil seal on that shaft, it might be leaking. A little is ok, a lot is not.

http://www.hubcapcafe.com/calendar/ohio.htm

...lists several around town. Dunno if they all for sure or not.

MOPAR Nationals, National Trail Raceway, August 8-10, 2008

VolksFest! 18, Pataskala, August 9, 2008

Sixth Annual Corvettes and Street Rods, Whitehall, August 9, 2008

"Bands on the Run Cruise In", Columbus, August 10, 2008

What else would sing, other than the brake rotor. Can't imagine it would be like that from the factory, but dunno. Applying the front brake would make it better or worse, and indicate that it was indeed the front brake rotor. Guess it would also mean that the brake pads were dragging on the rotor. They might be a bit out of alignment? The new fix is that blue anti-squeal goop, or similar. The old time fix was make a gasket of brown paper, soak it in oil, and use it under the caliper. Note: old Hondas have a bad habit of growing a glob of snot-like stuff behind the caliper piston and refusing to retract.

I also coughed up the big bucks and got a Nelson-Rigg mini tank bag, magnetic. The mini is new this year. I wanted real small, and it's a challenge fitting much in it, but it's mostly to hold the GPS under the clear top along with a folded up route map to look at. Inside goes camera, batteries, etc. Some people down South where it's maybe hotter, think the magnetic will leave a mark on the paint on the tank. Dunno, haven't seen anything like that yet. Magnetic stays put so far, even at higher speeds and cross-winds.

I bought an el cheap'o surplus store backpack. That place way out on East Broad. Flat black of course, like the bike. Seems to work fine, rides well, doesn't move around, and follows me wherever I go. I keep bike stuff packed in it "to go". It is somehow comforting to have it there. Unlike stuff bungie'd to the back of the bike, I never wonder if it is still there. The wind will untie knots and remove straps and strings and stuff, so tie them all down well. Once and a while I'll haul the laptop in to work in a Targus laptop backpack from Target, that works ok, but feels funny with the flat laptop in it.

There is a chemical in traditional absinthe called Thujone, this chemical is banned in food products by the FDA. This one chemical is what makes absinthe illegal to sell. Generally Thujone comes from an herb called wormwood that is used in the production process of absinthe. Companies and the liquor industry have found that by filtering out this chemical they can legally sell their brand of absinthe in the USA.

In the United States, Absinthe was banned in 1912, following the French ban three years before, but the current US Customs restrictions on the importation of Absinthe only are dated from 1958 while the USDA and FDA regulations still ban the sale or importation of any beverage containing wormwood. Despite this and its a negative reputation, Absinthe has seemed to make a comeback in favor of citizens claiming the drink, whether they import it through customs or attempt to make it themselves. People are finding ways to acquire this green beverage.

Back to the legal aspect, the prevailing consensus of interpretation of United States law among American Absinthe connoisseurs is that:

[] It is legal to sell items used in the production of absinthe and even the herb Wormwood but not as part of a food product for human consumption. This derives from an FDA regulation, as opposed to a DEA regulation.

[] It is probably illegal for someone outside the country to sell such a product to a citizen living in the US, given that customs regulations specifically forbid the importation of "Absinthe."

[] It is probably not illegal to purchase such a product for personal use in the US.

[] Absinthe can be and occasionally is seized by United States Customs, if it appears to be for human consumption.

[] A faux-Absinthe liqueur called Absente, made with Artemisia abrotanum instead of Artemisia absinthium (wormwood), is sold legally in the United States however, the FDA prohibition extends to all Artemisia species, including even, in theory, Artemisia dracunculus, known as tarragon.

However, Absinthe is sold in most US retail liquor stores, or can be acquired via internet or catalogs because the export version made for the United States does not contain wormwood.

http://www.greendevil.com/absinthe_us.html

It's a Japanese kit, and a Japanese website written in ... Japanese. And the kid is Japanese too. Or Nippon and Nipponese if you prease. I got one of those kits, CB750. Still in the box.

How long will you wonder.

I goofed and smacked a knuckle at work, and it swelled up (twice normal size). Bad enough I got X-rays just in case. Not broken, but months later it's still not right. It's a bit bent, won't lie flat, and I have to splint it at nights to get it straightened again as it heals.

Symptoms of a broken finger

Swelling or pain of the fracture site.

Tenderness, numbness, or tingling at the fracture site.

Bruising or bleeding at the fracture site.

Inability to move or fold the injured finger in completely.

Deformity of the injured finger.

Mal-aligned fingers

Changes to the shape of the hand

Noises in joints or bones, or bones protruding.

Diagnosis

Does any finger overlap its neighbor?

Does the injured finger angle in the wrong direction?

Does the injured finger look too short?

Only an X-ray can tell if it's broken or not. They took 5 of my hand, and told me to splint it. I had already done that. Splint from Walgreens and a little Ace bandage. Go get an X-ray, most urgent care facilities have X-rays on-site. Call first and ask.

Note: Not to be confused with missing finger symptoms...

HA!... I was drafted when the CB350F came out. But get a breaker-less ignition like the Dynatek, with some hot coils. It's a huge difference. Be aware that some after market coils don't mount up on the original bolt holes, a pain-in-the-butt.

As you probably know by now, the CB350F had certain unique camshaft and valve train characteristics (design limitations). One valve in the 350 twins was funky also. The rocker shaft hole was bored a little off center, on like all of them.

Anyone selling a CB350 or CL350? A gal at work was talking about getting one.

Hi, I thought I'd quit lurking and join up. I work with BS aka Satan. I've been riding off and on for over 41 years, and still love it. I ride all year round except in the salt, I hate road salt. It gets in everything. I ride a flat black 2002 Honda 919. Some might remember seeing it on the Hocking Hills ride. I cut that one short and went with Bill to the Logan "hospital". I went back this last Saturday and rode it all solo at a bit higher speed...*cough*. Took 70 to 13 to 256 to 664 to South Bloomingville, and 56 to 278 to 78, but then decided to go North on the 555. Good God, that's a paved wagon road from yester-years. I liked it.

I started out on a CB160, and crashed it on purpose repeatedly. Guess I got it out of my system, I haven't crashed since. I had several CL350, guess I liked them. I still have an old 1976 Honda CB550F, just can't part with it.

ex-Honda mechanic,

ex-Army special forces payroll clerk,

ex-Aerospace design engineer,

and now I work with computers,

sometimes I wish I was a bike mechanic again...

I'll ride with anyone,

Laterz