ReconRat
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Posts posted by ReconRat
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I see the thread on oil, and a while back I did research on oil for myself. I wrote it all down at the time, so I wouldn't forget it. It might not be perfect, but it's close enough for me. I thought I'd share it, but I really don't want to argue about it. I have one for filters too, but it needs a little work. Maybe later.
DO NOT BUY:
1. Any oils with ratings higher than SG. (Basically don't use car oil, no SH, SJ, SL, SM)
WHY: All oil with a rating higher than SG is considered low friction (friction modifiers).
Manufacturers are not required to indicate what they have added to the oil.
THEREFORE: It's impossible to tell if something the bike won't like has been added.
2. Oils that claim Teflon or PTFE, graphite, organic molybdenum compounds, or other special slippery stuff. i.e. Slick 50,
WHY: The clutch will slip, the starter will not engage, etc.
3. Oils that claim friction modifiers, or "Energy Conserving" and/or "Energy Conserving II" (organic molybdenum compounds)
WHY: The clutch will slip, the starter will not engage, etc.
4. Oils with the 15W-xx rating. i.e. 15W-40
WHY: It's diesel engine oil. It behaves completely different in the engine.
BMW might be an exception, but be careful to get motorcycle oil not diesel oil. (BMW oil or Golden Spectro)
5. Racing oil if you are not racing.
WHY: Street bikes stop a lot, racing bikes try hard not to.
THEREFORE: Different type oil requirements.
6. Additives or cleaners for your oil.
WHY: Unless it's sold by the vehicle manufacturer, it's BS.
STP in your motorcycle engine will be one of the biggest mistakes you'll ever make.
DO BUY:
1. Oils with the motorcycle JASO MA rating.
2. Oils with high viscosity ratings. See the short list below.
3. The correct wieght oil for your motorcycle. i.e. 10W-40
Why: This is the basic viscosity rating. 5W-xx oil will pit the gears. Bad.
Correct wieght supports bearings, resists against consumption due to volatility.
4. Good quality/brand SG or JASO MA oil, can be mineral, semi-synthetic, or synthetic.
WHY: Type I and V are the wrong types. (Type II, III, IV, but not type I or V)
5. Synthetic oil for use in cold weather.
6. Cheap oil for storing the bike in the Winter. (either Rotella, or basic cheap SG)
7. Better oil or different oil if your clutch slips or the gears are hard to shift.
8. Better oil if it looks beat up when you drain it.
WHY: It should still have viscosity when you drain it.
A good oil will will finish up by streaming out in a fine flow.
A broken down oil will finish up with a drip drip drip.
I.E. It should pour out like it poured in.
9. Oils with zinc (ZDDP; zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) as an additive.
WHY: good anti-wear additive for motorcycles.
10. Oils with Phosphorus from ZDDP as an additive.
WHY: Prevents gear wear, protects transmission.
(Bad for catalytic converters, but I don't have one in Ohio.)
NOTES:
1. SE SF SG SJ SH SJ SM SL oil ratings on the container, will not always have the official circle emblem.
The official certification requires that an oil meets current ratings. (SL)
Thus a new oil meeting older motorcycle ratings of SG, will not receive any official rating at all.
It will simply say somewhere that it meets or exceeds SG.
Another reason is that the certification is very expensive, and some oil companies won't do it.
2. The lack of ratings for motorcycle oils, is now covered by the Japanese JASO MA and MB ratings.
MA is heavy duty, MB is light duty.
3. If the viscosity of the oil is broken down when it's drained, change it more often, or use a better oil.
The oil should stream out when it's done draining, instead of dripping. (if it's reasonably hot oil)
i.e. it should pour out like it poured in where possible.
4. Some engines, for example the early Honda V4s, and any turbo, needed better-than-average oil such as semi- or full-synthetics.
(note: modified engines with extremely high compression ratios can destroy oil in just days or weeks.)
5. Mineral oils generally have a higher viscosity than synthetics, but they can't keep it that way.
6. There is no such thing as a pure 100% synthetic. Synthetics are made from mineral oil or ethanol, etc.
Synthetics are generally a mix of both mineral, and mineral enhanced to be considered synthetic.
(Type IV oils, PAOs, are the closest to a true synthetic. Mobil One, (use motorcycle type only), is the only one I can think of.)
7. It's ok to add a mineral to a synthetic, or a synthetic to a mineral. Not a problem.
6. Don't get obsessed with oil: the best advice you can find is in the owner's manual
7. Special application oils are for special application motorcycles, you don’t have one, forget it.
8. Honda HP4 oil, which is a mineral/synthetic blend, appears to have molybdenum additives.
Opinions differ as to whether molybdenum is bad for the clutch plates.
If it's not so bad, why did Honda take it out of their HP4, and have two types, one with and one without?
Also, SportRider tested the HP4 without molybdenum and found it had significant amounts in it.
9. Some bikes have no problems with the molybdenum additives. Likewise, some bikes have no problem with car oil. Even the ones with the slippery energy conserving additives.
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Viscosity ratings from independant testing:
Notable here, is that a petroleum based oil can out-perform a synthetic.
Also notable, is that the oil breaks down the viscosity very fast in a motorcycle.
Relative Viscosity Retention
(as a percentage of initial viscosity retained
after normal use in the same motorcycle)
0 mi 800 mi 1500 mi 2500 mi type
---- ------ ------- ------- ----
Mobil1 100% 86.6% 83.0% 79.1% synthetic/automotive oil
Castrol Syntec 100% 78.1% 74.5% Not tested synthetic/automotive oil
Castrol GTX 100% 72.2% 68.0% " " petroleum/automotive oil
Honda HP4 100% 69.2% 65.6% " " synthetic/Motorcycle oil
Spectro 4 100% 68.0% 63.9% " " petroleum/Motorcycle oil
Most of these are automotive oils, this list is just to show how some petroleum oils outperform synthetics, when you wouldn't expect it.
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continued in part 2
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Aerospace isn't much of a steady job. Paycheck is good, but too project oriented. Politics change, and then everyone gets laid-off. But they do pay well for additional education. We used to call ourselves technical mercenaries. Always having to move around to stay working. Research institutions are more likely to offer a life long job. All companies now have the bad habit of getting rid of people just before they hit the 5 years of employment, when the company owes retirement to the employee per federal law. Thanks Congress, messed another law up beyond belief.
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Yeah, I noticed the ouch flat seat. Love the headlight mask though.
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Ok, I had to add this. The wording of the law is a bit tricky. In the state of Ohio, if the title (showing rebuilt markings) isn't available at the time of sale, the sale is void if:
http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/4505.181The title for the vehicle indicates that it is a rebuilt salvage vehicle, and the fact that it is a rebuilt salvage vehicle was not disclosed to the retail purchaser in writing prior to the execution of the purchase agreement.I take it that would mean a buyer would have to ask to see the title before committing to a purchase agreement. I'll remember that...
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Actually, before we make you all nervous, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just keep it in mind and keep an eye on things. I used to ride bikes through deep water all the time. Up over carb intakes even, the wake keeps them in an air pocket, just don't stop. Didn't do anything more for it other than re-pack wheel bearings in the winter. Worst case is trying to start a bike that has gotten water in the one of the cylinders, without taking the plugs out first. Even then, damage isn't likely unless it actually fires or starts.
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Including check and replace brake fluids as needed. It's hard to spot water in hydraulic brake fluid. You'd have to let it set, the water tends to go to the bottom. Then drain a sample into a glass jar, and let that set, and see if water separates out in the bottom. Or if the brake fluid is dirty, just change it. Don't hit the brake lever before you drain a sample, that instantly disperses the water throughout the brake fluid from the pressure. Sort of like vaporizing it. It settles back out and falls toward the bottom after a while. Even the smallest amount of water in brake fluid is not acceptable. Is it possible to get a list of what work was done by the re-builder on the bike? BTW, good job on getting that adjustment. I thought it was illegal in Ohio to pass off a re-build title as normal. And not just marked on the title, I thought they had to tell you, and/or advertise it that way. Dunno...
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Standard item for most vehicles that are flooded or travel through deep water, is the wheel bearings. Grit can get in there and destroy them. A quick check of the front and rear wheel bearings, as well as the swing arm bearing (which takes a lot longer). If it runs and nothing weird comes out with the oil change, it should be ok, me thinks. Try filtering the used oil, and see what is caught. Electrics are not a problem except for corrosion from prolonged exposure, and that would be more likely if it were simply parked outside. If water messed up the electrical system that easy, we couldn't ride in the rain. (Ok, British Lucas on British bikes). I did trash a transmission on a car that had been flooded, I do remember that.
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One more, the dream job would be in New Mexico at the new spaceport being built. Mostly the Virgin Galactic spaceplane and Burt Rutan spacecraft right now. But hopefully the future will see a lot of rapid growth in the spaceport area. All high tech jobs.
http://www.spaceportamerica.com/
Plus they will have the Rocket Racing League. If they are going to race rocket planes, I'm going to be there to see it. Still no opening date set for the first air race. It all appears to be at least two years more.
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I had offers for aerospace jobs in Cali, but a little research showed that engineers are dirt in California. Maybe too many of them, in the LA area. But when a high school kid working a parts counter selling Japanese car parts, makes the same as an aerospace engineer; no thanks. Keep it, I don't want it. And I used to live out there.
On the other hand, I've heard and seen nothing but good things about Colorado. I like the Colorado Springs area. Mandatory to have a dual sport out there, lots of mountain dirt roads . Wolfman, there must be something out there related to the US Air Force. And honestly, the Bakersfield area up in the high desert of Cali is totally different. Affordable and lots of high tech jobs. A physics degree should get you into an aerospace firm doing some sort of analysis on structures and materials. Also, up around Sacramento the cost of living is the about the same as Columbus, Ohio. Or was the last time I checked.
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go down to Battelle, and ask for the job listings book at the front desk...
or
example:
Don't forget that most places ask for more education, experience, etc than they are really looking for. That allows them to turn people away. Allows them to pay less in bargaining. Or if the pay is a bit low in the first place, they will take anyone they can get that will be able to do the job. Oddly, this means that if you apply for jobs that you are actually qualified for, you often won't get the job. If you apply a bit over what you are actually qualified for, you get their attention. Cover letters make or break the deal. My favorite cover letter phrase was "... this sounds just like what I've been doing for several years..." , a winner to get an interview. Turn an interview with the human resources weenie to the technical side after a little bit, and gently push for a talk with the engineering manager or supervisor.
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I second the Raleigh NC area. But Naval Air Weapons Station China Lake would be way more fun. Sandia National Laboratories and Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory come to mind. There's a Sandia in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Atomic General in San Diego. Any job with Lockheed or Northrup Grumman. And a bunch of stuff in the Huntsville Alabama area, but it rains over 200 days a year in Northern Alabama. Wetter than the Seattle area. I hope your security clearances are top notch if you want to work at one of these places.
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I was looking up info on the V-twin vs Inline 4 thread. Trying to sort out benefits and efficiency of each type of engine design. And I found this: the Gun Engine. No clue if it's worthy, real, or is the future for us all. Claims are 90% less fuel used, no pollution from some fuels, and just might run on water or a combination of fuel and water. This article doesn't get into details, but some of the other links give a clue. It uses extra pistons, in long cylinders, to use up all the power of combustion. Up to 4 more times, resulting in a sort of 12 stroke engine. Basic claim is torque beyond belief, so much so that a transmission isn't even needed. The first test engine built, broke from the excessively high torque.
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Whats the hight difference? is that signal strength?
Signal strength? Good. I was wondering if that was the range straight up (not) and how you got there.
I've war-driven my neighborhood, and we have war-walked at work. Amazing is the lack of security. geez... Also amazing is just how many access points are out there all around us.
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Yeah, Kaw H1 probably. aka Mach III aka "Bone Crusher". Weak brakes, weak frame, weak suspension, not for meant for handling, but wow could they go fast. Rather than a cafe, these make good drag bikes. If you can get it to stop. Drum brakes front and rear.
Note that the center carb needle was up one notch to run rich in the middle cylinder. Make them all the same and it runs ragged, and burns up the center cylinder. Common mistake when someone rebuilds the carbs.
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How did the people die? Tip overs? Broken necks?
http://www.youhavealawyer.com/blog/2008/10/23/yamaha-rhino-atv-accident/
A rollover while driving on pavement. Two 11 year old girls. Two of many, it seems to be.
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btw, does anyone know what war movie that is at the end?
Omaha beach landing scene in Saving Private Ryan
Here's the whole clip from the movie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_y1YL9C8Hfw
Warning: blood and gore
The silent deafness part of the scene is very very real. The explosions, noise, and shock do exactly that.
Any combat veteran will tell you it's one of the most realistic battle scenes ever done. Second best is probably the Band of Brothers mini-series from TV. I think best scene is the artillery barrage in the Battle of the Bulge woods. Incoming artillery and rifle fire clips through the trees and shrubs causing bits and pieces of vegetation to fall like rain. The zip and blur of rounds passing everywhere. No other movie goes that far to recreate the actual combat.
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lol @ John... we use Final Cut at work. It's more like something that I would see in an editing studio on a dedicated computer, not a user's computer. Most Macs and PCs would be pressed to run it well. So it's a high end computer that will be happy with it. The Photoshop will run on either well, unless the user is at the high end of the Photoshop skill level. Then it's back to looking for a high end computer to run that as well. Definitely check the minimum requirements for each software package, and go up from there. Remember, it's not computers that are selected for purchase. It's the software, and then the computers that will run it. Also, if you're doing sound editing, most computers do not have stereo out (or in), so you will need to add a good sound card for that. I won't pick Mac vs PC, they both work. Seems like people who used them in high school or college prefer one over the other forever after. The pros at work use one of each, minimum. And buy expensive software constantly.Think about that.
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Seems like green is an "in" color. Maybe neon green? which is a yellow-green. Maybe purple (not violet) and red (not red-orange) accents, which is a split complementary color scheme. Loud without being pukey, but that's the idea. Whatever colors you use, keep them balanced for harmony. Confused now?
http://www.tigercolor.com/color-lab/color-theory/color-harmonies.htm
this is a split complementary based on green. For yellow-green (neon) it would shift one notch counter-clockwise. Click the "next" at the bottom of that page for the menu of the whole basic story of color harmony.
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Sounds like somebody thinks kids are a money maker. Might be if we make them earn their keep and work in the fields like in a third world country. Oh, wait... that does work...
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ok, I've seen a lot of changes over time, and I've noticed that when an administration promises middle income families more money returned, it does not include middle income single people. Expect to pay more under those conditions. I don't remember if it's just one party or the other that does it more often, but I do remember that there is a trend of one party doing this more than the other. Now for the bad news, the individual states will go through the same need for cash flow. I would expect most states including ours to attempt to increase income by increasing taxes of all types. It's a bit weird, people earn less money or have less jobs, but the state and federal governments won't get along with less money.
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What they all said, a catalyst and energy is needed. Probably a net loss when done. On the other hand, water burns when added to combustion. Water injection was used on piston driven aircraft in world war 2. It was hard on the engines, and the engines had to be torn down and re-built if the injection was used twice. Emergency use only.
Motorcycle Oil - part 1
in Tech and Tips
Posted · Edited by ReconRat
continued from part 1:
Types of oil:
Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils.
Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils.
Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils.
Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Mobil One, Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt.
Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils.
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Honda technical bulletin in 1988 on SH and higher oils:
"This type of oil was developed to optimize the kilometres per litre attained by automobile engines. To achieve this, most SH oils contain friction modifiers that significantly reduce frictional losses on internal combustion engine components. [...] While SH oil is fine in automobile engines, the situation is different for motorcycle engines.
"The use of SG rated oil with friction modifiers in Honda motorcycle engines may cause the following problems:
* Wear between the camshaft lobes and rockers arms due to the lubricant breaking down between the two components.
* Slipping and deterioration of wet multi-plate clutch systems.
* Slipping of one-way starter clutch systems.
* Possible wear and pitting of transmission gear teeth due to the decreased shear-stability of the oil
"Not all SH rated oils use friction modifiers. But since oil producers are not required to state if their oil contains friction modifiers, it is difficult to tell which brand may cause a problem. With this in mind, we recommend that SH rated oils not be used in Honda motorcycles."
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A research study [2] published by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and written by researchers belonging to the four Japanese motorcycle makers looked at then-new SH-rated car oils to evaluate their suitability for motorcycles. Among their conclusions:
1. The motorcycle manufacturers recommend SE, SF, SG-rated oils.
2. The manufacturers observe gear-pitting with viscosities less than 10W30.
3. Low-friction oils can cause wet multi-plate clutches to slip too much.
4. Low-friction oils can cause one-way limited slip (or back-torque limiting) clutches to slip too much.
5. Low-friction oils can cause starter motor clutches to slip too much.
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recommended oils for 4cyl 4stroke motorcycles: (my choice)
all are specifically 4stroke motorcycle 10w40 oils, except the Castrol R4 5W40, none are meant for use in automobiles
full synthetics can be 5W40 instead of 10W40
1. Castrol R4 SuperBike (full synthetic)
2. Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 (full synthetic?) (some users complain of clunky shifting with it)
3. Castrol GPS (synthetic based)
4. Honda HP4 (synthetic/mineral blend) (two types?-some have molybdenum additives-don't buy-eek!)
5. Castrol Actevo 4T (synthetic based - cheaper basic oil)
6. Honda GN4 (mineral based?)
7. Spectro Golden 4 10W40 (synthetic/mineral blend)
8. Repsol 4T Racing 10W40 (synthetic/mineral blend)
Amsoil is pretty high rated oil as well.
edit: add Shell Rotella to this list. A low cost oil. (WalMart by the gallon.)
Shell Rotella® T3 SAE 15W-40
Shell Rotella® T6 Full Synthetic
Both will say JASO MA on the container. Safe for motorcycles.
edit: confusion... Shell Rotella has dropped the JASO-MA specifications from their website for Rotella T3 and Rotella T6. It now shows JASO-MA for "Rotella T Triple Protection". I won't be using Rotella any more, not if they can't make up their minds...
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