ReconRat

It's almost always local kids. A pro would have gotten in and out and been gone...

ummm, -T6 is a temper, i.e. heat-treatment or age hardening. -T6 temper is a proper one for mechanical usage on a vehicle. The -T6 temper will double or triple the strength/hardness of the -T0 alloy. The machining and forming is done in a -T0 temper, and then heat treated to the -T6 temper. Common aluminum alloys that can be T6 heat treated are: 2014 - 2024 - (poor corrosion resistance) Due to its high strength and fatigue resistance, 2024 is widely used in aircraft structures, especially wing and fuselage structures under tension. 6061 - (weldable) is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft. 6061 is commonly used in the construction of bicycle frames and components. 6063 - is used for architectural fabrication, window and door frames, pipe and tubing, and aluminum furniture. 7075 - (not weldable) (very strong, hard to form and machine) 7075 is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages. Its strength and light weight are also desirable in other fields. Rock climbing equipment and bicycle components are commonly made from 7075 aluminium alloy. The bicycle industry is also using 7005 and 6061 aluminum alloys. One interesting use for 7075 is in the manufacture of M16 rifles for the American military. 7178 - Quoted Wikipedia - Aluminum alloys Everything I made for military aircraft was either 6061, 2024, or 7075 alloy. The 2024 was the most common average structural alloy. 6061 was used for little brackets and parts that had minimal loads. The 7075 was used for the tough stuff, where great strength was required. All were worked in a -T0 temper, and almost all were tempered to the -T6 to finish. My memory says the 7075 was tempered to a -T651 temper instead of the -T6. Either will work. Almost all were painted with at least a zinc primer. Because some aluminum alloys will age harden in storage to a -T1 or -T2 hardness, they are annealed by heat treatment back to the -T0 before machining or forming. Then heat treated again (tempered), as required for design of part, back to a -T6 typically. Bending aluminum will harden it. Welding can also. That hardness can make it brittle and crack. Either right away, or later on from even simple vibration. The annealing and tempering of formed parts will remove the brittleness, and is important in adjusting the aluminum part to uniform hardness and strength. This information brought to you by the Rockwell B-1B Lancer.

I dunno, maybe biggest street bike, but this Aussie bike can crush cars ... http://www.loqu.com/the-biggest-motorcycle-of-the-world/blogs/ken-1759

*bored*... looking at all the ads on erosohio.... doesn't match Las Vegas, heh...

Brings back memories. I saw some wild stuff when I lived out there. They get really serious about their cars and bikes. They drive so many miles, they think nothing of replacing/rebuilding the engine every couple of years. I remember driving far to race up Mulholland Drive at night, back when it was an unpopulated road. Mostly so I could say I'd been there and done that. I thought I was having fun in a 1966 LeMans (GTO look-alike). Until a Porsche and a BMW blew past me uphill like I was standing still...

A little help reading the data, the ROV is floating at 7828 feet depth, with the bottom 14 feet below it at 7842 feet depth.

Shell Oil released this video and news on November 24, 2008. On November 11, 2007, a Shell Oil company deep sea ROV (remotely operated vehicle) filmed this critter at a depth of 2.5 kilometers, in the Gulf of Mexico. It's a seldom seen species of squid, although this one is new to science with it's "bent elbows". It's fairly big, I'm not sure how big yet. I doubt it knew it could be seen, the video is probably night vision enhanced type. It appears to be standing (floating) there watching... If you haven't ever read about these critters, they are considered to be very intelligent. http://www.scienceray.com/Biology/Marine-Biology/Discovery-Alien-of-the-Deep.366677 youtube video (worth watching, it's pretty creepy): http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=z81I4L5jRXI

Gunfire in a Toys-R-Us in Palm Desert, CA. It might have been two shooters, and both died, having shot each other. http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/lanow/2008/11/shots-were-fire.html

Diesel motorcycles seem to be common, but seldom for sale. I've seen a lot of conversions. The Royal Enfield conversion shows up for sale once and a while. I guess there's a good kit for it. On a bike, a diesel is slow to get moving, but ok for cruising. They are not fast, they cruise at a lower speed. My favorites: http://www.peace65.freeserve.co.uk/Pictures/royalenfield.htm http://www.dieselmotorcycles.com/ A commercial model will some day be for sale, from HDT Technologies. It is expensive. MD670F "Bulldog" (US)

Early motorcycles tried using aircraft fuel systems, long before fuel injection. Aircraft carbs run on gravity feed only, no float bowl, and no butterfly valve. Getting them tuned right is tricky. Good for drag strip. some famous names were Lake, Posa and Star. To function with gravity feed fuel only, there has to be some vertical distance between the fuel tank and the injector. Aircraft have about 12 inches of head pressure. Motorcycles have less, usually. So that means keeping the tank full to help out. And possible having to raise your fuel tank (or lower your carb). I've read and heard of attempts to create a pressure feed system for these, but none ever worked right. Generally in the range of 15% to 25% horsepower gains. Frankly, I'd look into bigger bore smooth-bore Mikuni carb kits instead, for a non fuel injected engine.

http://www.nydailynews.com/ny_local/2008/11/28/2008-11-28_worker_trampled_to_death_at_long_island_.html

I rode with a guy last Summer, that had one on the back of his cruiser. A Goodyear Eagle, wider than a stock tire. He had cut and formed both the rim and the fender to be wider. And all the parts around it to go with it modified as well. It looked great, but no one will mount a tire for you. The whole thing is basically "off-road". It can be done, but you have to find a very limited number of shops that will work on one.

Engine mounting adjuster bolts (Engine adjuster bolts) are something entirely different that I don't think were mentioned before. As far as I can see, they go in first when re-installing the engine. They probably locate the engine on the frame properly before installing the mounting bolts and torquing down. The difference between 7 n-m and finger tight isn't much, and I'd feel comfortable using the 7 n-m anywhere it asked for finger tight. With one exception, when finger tight is going to take the lash out of a bearing assembly, which is what the swingarm pivot shaft adjust bolt is probably doing. I'd have to see the parts to know for sure. The 95 n-m (69 ft-lb) is for the swingarm shaft nut (what the manual calls pivot shaft nut). So this is another place to use the special tool, and now for a specific torque. You need one now. And most torque wrenches don't even go down to 7 n-m, but an inch-pound torque wrench would. Inch-pound torque wrenches work well with motorcycles. Most all of a bike can be done with an inch-pound torque wrench. All except the heavy hardware, like the oil filter bolt, fork yoke nuts, rear axle nut, drive sprocket, etc which would need the bigger ft-lb torque wrench.

made me look, nope, it's: Item: Official 1999-2002 Yamaha YZF-R6 Factory Service Manual Item #: LIT-11616-12-62 If you think that's bad, I remember the first manuals from Japan back in the mid 60's. We had constant interruptions from hysterical laughter at some of the extremely poor translations into English. Factory manuals are still the best. I remember chasing a Ford Mustang problem that all the manuals said was hooked up correctly. I found the Mitchell's manual said the opposite connections. And that worked, all the others were wrong, and were probably all taken from the factory manuals. So nothing is perfect, I suppose. I've also seen the manual for the B-1B Lancer, it took me maybe 3 weeks to work through the hydraulic schematic alone. That was border-line impossible to read and comprehend.

TOON channel which is channel 68 on Insight Robot Chicken: Star Wars Special 68 TOON Sat 11/22 11:00 PM 68 TOON Fri 11/28 11:00 PM 68 TOON Sat 11/29 2:30 AM Robot Chicken: Star Wars Episode II 68 TOON Sat 11/22 11:30 PM 68 TOON Fri 11/28 11:30 PM 68 TOON Sat 11/29 3:00 AM

dangit, no classics or naked bikes? darn....

I had to say something... if that pivot shaft adjust bolt got torqued to 69 foot pounds, I might wonder if it had just turned into a hard tail....

It's me again... 1999-2002 Yamaha R6 shop manual page 7-75 Installing the swingarm Pivot Shaft Adjust Bolt - Use the pivot shaft wrench to tighten the pivot shaft adjust bolt to finger tightness. Pivot Shaft Nut - 95 Nm (9.5 m-kg, 69 ft-lb) They aren't the same thing. One is a "remove the slack from the assembly adjuster" nut, and the other one is a "I don't want my swing arm to fall off while moving" nut. The pivot shaft adjust bolt needs the special tool. I have no idea if the pivot shaft nut needs anything special.

Ok, I noticed that catalog now says to CALL for pricing on handguns now. It didn't used to be that way. I usually look for 60% of the retail price (MSRP). If it's a hot item and everyone wants one, maybe 80-85% of retail price (MSRP). Easier to figure out what the lowest price might be.

http://powersports.honda.com/the_goods/parts_and_service/detail.asp?ProductGroup=4%2DStroke+Oils&PartValue=Pro%2DHonda+HP4+10W40&PartId=08C35-A14W0M&TheGoodsDir=1Yes, it's ok to mix them, especially since both are Honda brand. The HP4 is part synthetic and part mineral. So using straight GN4 mineral is ok. The reason for putting fresh oil in at storage time, is to get the contaminated oil out. There are acidic byproducts of combustion in the used oil. They are not good for the internal metal parts. If your current oil wasn't in the bike for very long, it's not a big deal, you can leave it in.

I think the zx7 goes to classes at CSCC, I think that was the one I saw. The red 919 is still riding also. There is ice on the roads today. With the salt down now, I think I give up.

Check what the cheapest prices are for stuff: http://www.cdnninvestments.com/ Most of the used and new firearms are in the downloadable catalog: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/cdnn/CDNN2008-6.pdf Then go find them at the Bill Goodman gunshow in Dayton Hara Arena (or any of his other shows in Ohio): http://www.gunshow.net/ http://www.gunshow.net/Dayton-new.htm Next Dayton show is Nov 23-24 and Dec 13-14.

FRAME SPANNER SOCKET 90890-01471 or YM-01471 This website shows the basics of making one from a reasonably hard socket that fits down in there. It's for a Dana 44 ball joint, not a Yamaha, but the concept is the same. You'll need a socket that fits inside the bore, hacksaw, file, and grinder, and lots of work. http://gastiresoil.blogsome.com/2006/03/ You really should buy the tool (or make one). The tool you need might be found for 36-46 bucks? It would save a lot of time getting the right tool. The pivot shaft adjust bolt goes back in only finger tight. That makes me wonder if it's only finger tight right now, and might come out easier than you think. I'd probably try something dumb like get two hard steel rods, clamp them together with two vise-grips, and try to turn it out. Making a wood handle to hold them would be fun to try also. Then make or buy the tool when it didn't work. Edit: Ok, I've seen mechanics whack these spanner nuts with a hammer and a drift or small chisel to get them off. And yeah, I've done it, but it hacks up the special nut and you'll want to buy a new one. And I think this axle adjuster nut is too far down in there to get at, but it might respond to some gentle tapping to loosen it, and then turn it out with a screwdriver. Oh, wait... do you have a very large screwdriver that would fit down in there? Or a flat piece of steel plate that could be turned with visegrips.

Actually, from what I've heard from people over in Britain: There are way too many firearms being used by criminals. This occurred after the last round of gun bans in Britain. There's no way of telling if that had anything to do with it. It does make all the weapons being used illegal per current laws. Civil unrest does appear to be a factor. As a result, the traditional unarmed "Bobbie" is going away. Police either carry firearms, or a local police kiosk will have heavy weaponry, or both. And this was before 9/11. I'm sure that cranked up the fear factor. German police carry little .380cal pistols. When I was there, all I saw was the submachine guns they all had. MP5s I suppose. I didn't look too close. It's not polite to stare at someone's submachine gun, lol.