TinyTim

I got dyna beads along with a tire change from CSS... And I have mixed feelings. The beads seem to keep the tire in balance most of the time, but bumps in the road can throw the tire out of balance. Being on of those "enginerds", my somewhat educated guess is that the beads stick to the tire carcass until some tire oscillation throw them off. Of coure if the tire is balanced, then the beads stay put. If the tire is not balanced they would tend to stick on the side closest to center (the "light" side). When I hit a bump they must be thrown off the carcass and bounce around until another equilibrium is met. Enginerdiness aside, my educated butt tells me wheel weights would be better. Next tire change I will be using stick on weights.

I get off work at 4:30, and my nights are typically free. Let me know what you need help with. I am decent with wrenches and simple electronics and excell at manual labor.

Will you guys measure the air/fuel ratio during the pulls? It's fun to hear the engine scream and to see a HP number, but that air/fuel mix info makes it useful too.

Just read the newer posts, +1 for better pics. Sounds like big issues. Are you calling the gear shift lever a "clutch pedal?

What is going on with this "clutch pedal". Are you talking about the arm on the spindle that comes out of the clutch cover area, or are you talking about the rear brake pedal? Also, where is the crack that is leaking oil? If it is in your engine cases you might as well buy a new case if you are doing the work yourself or maybe a new engine if you are not. To weld anything you should degrease it first, which means lots of diassembly work. It may be cheaper to just replace it.

Seems like Arizona whipped out the nuclear option... Should be fun to watch when the next heatwave rolls through LA.

Happy Birthday Moose!!

I think I found the source of the engine noise. The front plate on the cam chain tensioner that rides on the chain guide was loose. I used a pair of punches to widen the rolled pin that holds the plate in place. That tightened the plate significantly, and when I started the engine the loud knocking noise was gone. Only thing left to do is ride it to make sure that the noise stays gone, and then give a call to the shop about that tensioner and one other little thing.

I am taking a look at the bike now. I am down to the valve cover already, if anyone wants to come take a look let me know. My home is less than a mile from the Lane Ave/Northwest intersection.

1)Left lane loungers- those rude drivers going 5mph slower than the rest of the road but still insist on using the left hand lane. 2)Right lane passing (me included, the stupid left lane loungers force me to be a hypocrit)

+1 for FZRs. That was what I learned on, low end has enough torque to be forgiving. When you wring it's neck there is enough power up top to keep it interesting for a long time. Handling is good and it's not too heavy.

Have you tried http://fzrarchives.com/ Someone there will probably want it.

It's been just over a week since I have ridden and my plan to save up for a much newer bike seems insane (who really wants to give up a whole season when there is an almost functional R6 in the garage). I am leaning to the used motor option and/or fix the old one on my own (i've got time with no bike to ride). Anybody interested in an engine teardown in the near future?

Even if it is just "damage control" and is not good customer service, I still appreciate the time and effort that they have put into it. Maybe I am too trusting. The bike is still at the shop, I need to discuss my options with the shop manager. Worst case I get it home, tear it apart, take a peek inside and part it out. There seems to be no interest in non-running bikes, so parting out is my option.