Sidewinder600

If you have a Netflix subscription, that app just came out yesterday too. Anything that's stream-able you can now watch on your phone. Was just watching some South Park and Dexter episodes and the quality is actually pretty damn good.

Just don't throw it in the trash, apparently: http://www.ohio-riders.com/showthread.php?t=64935

I learned some Jive while watching Airplane. Maybe they offer a program to cross-train into Ebonics from there. COL' got to be, y'know? Shiiiiit.

Here: http://www.cyclemaintenance.com/mechicscorner/cb750_carbs.htm I'm guessing the hardest part is getting the carbs off the bike. Aside from that, you'll probably just need a screwdriver, some small sockets or adjustable wrench, and gasket kits, if that. Your symptoms are (probably) standard dirty carb stuff. Non-starting is usually because there's dirt or gummed-up gas plugging up the idle jet. The leaking carb is probably just dirt or something holding open the float needle.

Just realized I fail at life and put this in the wrong forum. Respectfully request mods use their uber-modpowers to shift this over to the gear section. I will say 10 Hail Rossi's as penance.

Selling purely because I way overestimated the size I needed. It was used for one track day and it had me flapping around like a trout out of water having an epileptic seizure. I didn't crash and kept the pucks off the deck, and I even washed the liner and cleaned the couple bugs off afterward so it's about 98% brand new. Even have the tags and A* bag it came in if it matters. Asking $400.

Sizes are 120/70ZR-17 and 180/55ZR-17, SC2 compound. Ok for the street, but are some of the best tires for track riding. Got them a few months ago but ended up going with more street-friendly Michelins. Asking $270 for the set.

Photochop challenge: somebody take that picture of the pleather hat and put a Snell sticker on it.

Some other job translations: "exciting opportunity" = desk job "established company" = invest in one of those hemorrhoid donuts because your ass ain't going anywhere for a decade or two "3+ years experience in XXX required" = we lack any OJT, or possibly even anyone else that knows what the hell they're doing, so you better know your shit before you get here "immediate need" = we were completely caught off-guard when the last guy quit after years of suffering our abuse, so we'd like to not change our practices at all and hope you're accustomed to grabbing ankles "opportunity for growth" = you will be promoted by attrition; essentially "immediate need" but with more foresight "BS in XXX required" = we want you saddled with college debt so it'll be harder to quit, but we'll still pay like you work at The Waffle House (no offense intended to Waffle House employees) "master's in XXX required" = we'll give you a lot more responsibility but pay you just as much as a BS because, let's face it, with all the school loans you have you'll take anything in this job market "PhD in XXX required" = only a doctorate can adequately prepare you for the amount of bureaucracy and reams of paperwork that will slowly choke away your will to live while working here "growing/upstart company" = you'll probably be working for free; or, our total profit from last year amounted to 6 Kroger gift cards "some overtime required" = buy a Suburban, put your mattress in the back, sell your house and everything else you own, find a nearby Walmart parking lot "some travel required" = see "some overtime required," but be prepared to lose that Suburban and mattress within a year to cover travel expenses we refuse to reimburse "looking for a rock star/outgoing/take-charge personality" = if by default you believe everyone around you is wrong and you like to noisily point that out at every opportunity, and you have very calloused knees, you'll fit right in "engineer" = technician "technician" = opposable thumbs a plus

Nice! That would be "All-original, vintage Yamaha. Ran when parked. Title in hand." See, you can also use it to create listings. Though that brings me to another one: "no title" = I know as well as you that the $300 price break isn't worth getting circle-jerked by the BMV and title agency simultaneously for 8 months while the bike sits legally (and maybe functionally) unrideable in the garage and racks up $500 in transfer fees, but you're probably going to rationalize buying it anyway once you see the sweet bill of sale I threw together in Google Docs 8 minutes before you got here to look at it and I throw in a free 7 year old HJC half-shell helmet that actually has been used as my dog's water bowl on several occasions ...BTD.

I’ve been noticing a habit of some overselling on craigslist, so for the benefit of everyone I’d like to start an official Craigslist Description Decoder thread. I’ve wasted too many clicks on ads listing a “classic, rare motorcycle” to find out it’s some generic 80’s UJM that some guy’s been using to store his lawnmower gas in for 20 years. Feel free to add/append as necessary. And this is meant to be funny, or at least not serious, so don’t get a bunch of sand in your vajayjay if some of this hits a little too close to home. If your bike runs just fine while using a butterknife as a fuse, I salute you. “Vintage” = old “Classic” = old “Collectible” = old “Antique” = old and doesn’t run “Need something bigger” = I have a separate line of credit at Wendy’s “Need something smaller” = I’ve wrecked so many times that insurance for my Ruckus is more than I spend on food “Spotless” = all parts destroyed in previous highside replaced “Unique” = begrudgingly realized that chopping the frame did not, in fact, increase resale value or desirability “Tons of upgrades” = knowingly refuse to individually list upgrades because I’ll realize I’ve spent more on this bike than most spend on their firstborn (admit it, you fall into this category) “Rare” = hard to find because nobody bought it new and/or most blew up long ago, both because of craptastic design; also, replacement for rusted tank would cost more than bike is worth “All-original” = haven’t bothered to replace anything, regardless of a persistent misfire and a muffler held on with bailer twine; also, old “Just replaced XXXX…” = XXXX exploded and took out everything around it, so I cobbled together a fix and don’t want to deal with the repercussions of a cheap and hasty repair “Wife wants it gone” = You see the picnic tables in the back of Chrysler’s new minivans? Sweet! “Probably just needs carbs cleaned” = belligerent homeless family currently residing in airbox “Needs electrical work” = when last tested, my multimeter read “OH SHIT!” “Ran fine when parked” = just needed an oil change when I parked it in pig stable 38 years ago “Will upload pics later” = I’m still learning to use the healing brush in Photoshop “95% complete” = 5% will cost $17,000 and a trip to an alpine base camp in the Far East to obtain the last known right hand timing case; see also “rare” “Down once in parking lot” = wrecked so hard I turned I-71 into a parking lot for 3 hours “Light rash on one side” = once ran on its side for 20 oil-starved minutes before paramedics shut it down; also see “down once in parking lot” “Kickstart only” = the timing’s off, trying to e-start turned the sprag clutch to powder, and I’ve run out of ankles to break attempting to kick start it myself “Needs new battery” = battery needs new bike; immediately refer to “needs electrical work” “Loads of character” = bump-start only, horn switch works high beams, high beam switch blows the main fuse, main fuse is a butter knife, kill switch lights harness on fire, headlight is an oil-burning lamp, horn automatically sounds during left handers, leaks more fluids than a 90 year old on an all-Olean diet, but hey… it still runs! Now your turn.

I think most people list their bike higher than what it's worth just because they know negotiations knock it back down to standard value. That's how it used to work in a better economy anyway. The difference is that these days potential buyers just won't even bother asking anything if the price starts high. Most sellers haven't adjusted to that mentality yet. I listed mine high because if I got lucky and somebody wanted to pay that much, great. Otherwise there was nothing wrong with the bike and I had no problems keeping it. It wasn't an issue of economic necessity so I was in no hurry.

I'll give you tree fiddy tree and a sammich.

Had mine listed for a while and nobody had the cash. Ended up doing an even trade which worked out well, but now I hear the other guy just got an audit form from the state because we listed the sale price as $0 on the registration paperwork. (Well we're not lying!) It's probably only a matter of time before I get one too. I'm having a hard enough time selling leathers and tires, I'm not even going to try to sell a bike for a while.

Be careful if you use naval jelly - it has a tendency to create these little rotten-looking clumps of slime where it attacks the rust that can be tough to get off. They'll eventually fall off and clog up filters and carbs. In a tank they'll be hard to spot. I use a combo of the ball bearings/nuts/etc along with CLR (get it at Meijer/Kroger in the cleaning isle). Shake for a bit, let it sit for half an hour or so, shake again... keep this up for a couple cycles and rinse out with something to evaporate the water. Easy on the shaking if the tank wall is thin - your tank will look like a pimply teenager if you put too much ass into it. As for coatings, I've had better luck with Red Kote than Kreem. Currently dealing with a shittily-applied coat of Kreem that's coming apart in my Commando tank right now. Pretty irritating. For the ultimate (but probably priciest) solution, pick up one of these kits for everything you need: http://www.por15.com/ This stuff's nice because it'll bond just as well to the little surface rust that pops up after drying where the other coatings work best when there's no rust at all.

I've got an M9A1 - functionally the same gun. I've loved it so far. I'm not the type to throw it in mud to see if it still fires, but I run some pretty crap ammo through it (9mm's getting expensive!). It's got almost 1K rounds on it and it's never choked once - and that's saying something using mostly WWB and Blazer Aluminum! It's not quite as accurate as a CZ or something similar, but it's like bikes: the capabilities of the tool usually exceed that of the user. For cheap ammo, if you're not against shipping, I find excellent prices here: http://www.sgammo.com/ And if you want some serious Beretta fanatics, go here: http://www.berettaforum.net/

How much you looking to spend? And what do you plan on using it for? Plinking, hunting, competition...?

At least Honda was giving people the option of getting bought out, and that's what it was - an option. They weren't forcing anybody to do it. Where I work they asked for volunteers to quit, with the threat that if not enough people did they'd just pull names from a hat and lay random people off. No incentives, no separation pay, nothing. And IIRC, it was a pretty sweet buyout too. I remember a bunch of us talking at work that, if we were offered something similar, we'd probably take it. IMHO Honda's doing it about the best way they can in a non-union environment. Hell, that's how they were doing it when I was in the military a few years back - they were overstocked with civil engineers, so they essentially offered buyouts. A full year's pay and any time obligations forgiven if you agree to quit. One of my buddies was in school getting a PhD paid for by the AF, then got to quit a month after he graduated with a year's paycheck (about $60K for a capt.) and essentially a free PhD. Lest we forget what happened with Chrysler. They tried to negotiate pay/benefit cuts just like everybody else in the industry was taking (Honda included!), the unions refused, so they had to declare bankruptcy. Then they got free reign to unload as much union labor as they wanted and renegotiate terms that were worse than what was initially offered. THAT'S the union mentality that has to go - they'd rather bankrupt the company that employs them than concede anything at all, regardless of the reality that people have stopped buying their products.

My weekend ride is your mom. Zing!

pirate

On a lighter note, I just realized that I've been following a thread about avoiding work and not being worth what I'm getting paid... at work. I will now humbly accept my Nobel Fail Prize and move on.

It could say that you're lazy and not interested in furthering yourself or your career... or it could just mean you're getting paid too well doing something you're familiar with to leave. Without a pay cap it's hard to tell. A lot of gov't jobs are like this, and I know how long a lot of those people stay in those jobs. Now if you go years without any advancement in title/responsibility AND your pay has stayed the same, I think that speaks volumes.

^^ That, mostly. The problem is once the union's installed, good luck getting them out, regardless of whether the company fixes the problems that initiated the union. Once people start gaming the system they do everything they can to keep that system in place.

To everybody that's union and comes on this thread and gets offended because they work hard and do their job properly, understand you're not the demographic that's getting bashed here. The issue at hand is that there are many that are content to sit on their asses for most of their day and dodge what they get paid to do. If most of us did that our asses would be out on the street. The sticking point here is that these union guys that do that get to dive behind their union cards when they get called on it, and still get offended when somebody tries to work around them.