vf1000ride

I have the Fieldsheer Mercury pants. Removable inner liner for when it's really cold. Legs zip all the way up to the crotch to make it easier getting in and out. CE armor in the knees and butt. So far I like them, can be worn over just about anything and they are my go to for everything pants.

They hardened plates or just regular steel? I have some rounds that will punch holes in stuff over 1/2 inch thick at that distance.

i figured they would at least shatter - am I off base? the clean-up issue occurred to me, so I'd probably reserve this for an area where cleaning up was semi optional (or lay down a tarp under/behind the targets).

I can always buy a crap microwave from a thrift store and video the lightning storm instead

RC cola, here i come! I had thought about that, and then reconsidered; assuming pop cans would be too expensive. It's literally been 10 years since I've bought a case of pop, so I was thinking of beer prices. ha.

The cd's with a high power rifle at any distance and they really just leave a nice little hole, sometimes they break in half. Even .22lr at 25-50 yards is kinda underwhelming. Pistol rounds do more damage and they will splinter and throw little flecks of the reflective coating all over. A tarp underneath wouldn't be a bad plan.

Cd's don't really do much, I've tried them. They are also really hard to clean up afterwards. Cheap cola from Sam's club in aluminum cans is always fun. You can shoot them with pistol, rifle or hand tossed with a shotgun. Water bottles are fun, if you add some food coloring you can pretend your on a tv show. Clay birds if you can buy the multi-pack boxes that come with mini's, midi's and full size clays. Gives you three different size targets to shoot at.

So I assume the guys that complain about salt don't like to wash their bikes?

JK guys. I did take mine out for about 40 miles today. 20 minutes to wash it off after getting home. Could have gotten in more but I spent too much time fiddling with a mini spy camera I picked up earlier in the winter. I still can't seem to find a good place to mount it where vibration from the bike doesn't mess up the video.

I will probably ride a few more times this week also. Wed-Fri looks promising as long as the rain stays on the low side of the forecast.

http://www.simplegreen.com/

and a quick scrubbing, rinse, repeat, blow dry. Problem solved, you can ride year round.

I rode last week, sure as heck I will ride next week.

Down in the mountains of North Carolina.

Out on the Highway.

Rocking at Mid-Ohio for my first track day.

Sitting at the house ready to go.

2007 Ducati Sport Classic Biposto

Likes;

Styling is classic cafe racer and a great blend of old and new if you like the mid 70's look.

The sound with the Termignoni aftermarket pipes is awesome.

Very light weight. (claimed 407 dry) Mine should be even lighter with the airbox removed and the aftermarket race pipes.

Turns into corners with little effort.

89hp, 68ftlbs 1000cc aircooled twin makes for a spirited but not crazy ride. (I've dyno'd twice 87&89 on two different machines)

Riding position of a sport bike but no fairings.

Spoke wheels look cool.

40-42 mpg on average for runs in twisties.

Gets looks from everyone when you stop, reasonably rare model ('06-'09 only).

Dislikes;

Spoke wheels very heavy. (13lbs front, 20lbs rear without tires)

Riding position wears out your body on long rides.

Factory suspension not sprung heavy enough for anybody over 150lbs.

Gas tank plastic, replaced twice so far due to it deforming.

120 miles to a tank of gas before light comes on. (40-42mpg)

From the factory would get a bad speed wobble over 100mph. (resprung front end cured it)

Factory forks not adjustable.

Seems there are several in C-bus now and it's not as rare as it used to be.

Mods;

Wrap around rear LED tail lights

removed charcoal canister

Termignoni race pipes (Aluminum with no cats), race ECU.

TPO Beast intakes (velocity stacks and K&N filter pods)

Gauge brackets (lowered and tilted them up for better visibility)

Re-geared rear sprocket from 39 to 42 teeth (same top speed:nono:, better low end pull)

Rizoma fluid cups (pure billet bling baby)

Evoluzione clutch slave (reduced clutch effort)

Custom Bitubo steering damper and mounts

Resprung the bike and added new fork cartridges that are adjustable.

Observation;

It's a two up bike, never have ridden with a passenger but can't see that they would enjoy the lack of seat space or ridding position. There are no handholds for a passenger and the seat slopes away from the rider with no backrest. I purchased a factory single seat and have been riding with that one for a while now. Not really a mod but gave me more underseat storage space and figured it was worth mentioning.

Sorry, I hold no conviction to the results found in these tests. Those trials have been hotly contested since the early 90's as most likely faked. Nobody that I know of has ever come forward with proof these tests even took place. I have never seen pictures or even eyewitness testimony that these events took place. Even so, modern bullet design has also come a long way in the last 20 some odd years. I would tend to think any conclusion made during these trials would be suspect as out of date just due to the sheer time frame that has lapsed since then.

Even if it was a real test, shooting a 160lb goat chained to a post is still not the same as shooting a 200lb crackhead kicking in your front door.

Here are a few more fun aviation related emails and such we had posted on the wall at work. Got all of these between '96 and 2001.

My bench only has 80lb's plus the cheap bar so maybe 90lb's max. I can do 20 straight without to much trouble. Pull ups, no clue. Haven't tried to embarrass myself with that one in many years.

Old, this has been floating around for years with several variations.

http://www.snopes.com/travel/airline/squawk.asp

I seem to think I have a copy of this from the late 90's when I was still working for the airlines. May have to go dig it out along with some of the other aviation funnies I have.

Edit; found them. Yours is similar to the list I got back in '97

$300 for a Kimber, buy it broken. Won't cost much to fix and you will be way ahead of a new one. You can get a hammer/sear/dis-connector kit from Brownells for $40 and spend maybe an hours labor at a good gunsmith to have it fitted and you are golden. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41559/avs|Make_3=1911/Product/1911_AUTO_DISCONNECTOR

There are a few 1911's that have either been converted or came from the factory as a double action trigger design. I don't know that Kimber has made one though, and even still the frame safety would work if it was. My 2cents would be that something inside the gun was either broken or not assembled correctly. It would be easy enough to troubleshoot if you could take the frame safety out of the gun and remove the grip safety. That would give you more access to the hammer and sear to see what was going on in the back of the gun. Doubt a gun shop or even private owner would be keen on you stripping their gun before you bought it though. If you want to know the procedure to take it apart it is actually really easy. I can get mine apart without any tools but requires a pen tip or small screwdriver to depress one of the springs to put it back together. I'm sure there are some video's around that explain it.

Just buy a proper 1911 and get it over with. 100 years in service and copied by almost every gun maker. Would love to be around in another 100 years to see how many people copy Glocks.

Browning got it right and there was no reason for 25 different models of it. You purchased it once and there was no need for anything else. Plastic is for toys, metal is for handguns.

Begin fanboy flamewar.

Just kidding as I have shot Glocks and they are nice guns. I just don't own one, I still need to decide if I want the Glock or the XD next. Or one of 15-20 other guns on my list. Such hard choices, when is it I am going to win the lottery?

I would recommend the Bushnell stuff also. I have had 4 of their scopes over the years and have never had trouble with any of them. I currently have the Banner model 71-3948, a 3-9x40mm. It is on my 10-22, they normally retail for $90 but I got it at Vance's last year when they where on sale for under $60. If you wanted something a little less expensive you could try Bushnell's .22 line of scopes, they have a 3-9x32mm that comes with rings for somewhere in the $50 range. (model 762239)

Scopes to stay away from, by personal experience the BSA scopes are not worth spending cash on. My BSA scope had been back for repair 3 times in the first 2 years I had it. The thing just would not hold it's settings. You could spend the day at the range and have the scope move by 3-4 inches over the course of 60 rounds. It was terrible.

BOOM. Aren't these illegal (to load) in Ohio?

The only place I can find anything relating to a Hi-cap mag in Ohio is one statement from the revised code relating to crimes.

ORC 2921.11 E states Quote:

(E) "Automatic firearm" means any firearm designed or specially adapted to fire a succession of cartridges with a single function of the trigger. "Automatic firearm" also means any semi-automatic firearm designed or specially adapted to fire more than thirty-one cartridges without reloading, other than a firearm chambering only .22 caliber short, long, or long-rifle cartridges.

Basically says that the .22 caliber guns are exempt from that classification. Don't know how that effects guys with the 50-75rnd drums for the AK's and AR-15's though. The 50rnd hi-cap mags for the 10-22 should still be legal unless I am missing something.

For mags the Ruger 10 round ones with the steel feed lips can't be beat. They can be taken apart and cleaned and the spring tension for the rotor inside it can be adjusted as the spring gets older. You can also replace the spring if it comes to that. For Hi-cap mags I have used some of the 50 round stick mags (believe Ram Line) with the body colored plastic feed lips and can say that of the 4 I owned all had worn out within 3-4 thousand rounds (each) of ammo. The feed lips wear out and you will start to have all kinds of function problems. I have no personal experience with the hot-lips or steel-lips branded Butler Creek stuff, maybe it's better quality.

The ones I had all went into the trash back while the ASW ban was in effect. Who would have know that would expire and they would start making them again, I could have gotten warranty on the darn things.

Also try not to dry fire any rimfire gun will damage the firing pin.

From Rugers 10/22 manual the gun is safe to dry fire, another advantage of the Ruger design.

With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, push the safety to the “off”

position and pull the trigger to decock it. The rifle can be “dry fired” for

practice as long as it is empty and pointed in a safe direction.

To R1crusher, sorry man you got me totally confused with what your trying to come across with as info on these AO scopes. Your first post you make it sound like that by adjusting the AO focus ring you are adjusting the scopes point of aim.

Your second post you blatantly say that you don't adjust the elevation for each shot, you just set the elevation adjustment at 100 yards and then for the distance you want to shoot at just change the AO setting to hit what you want. (and yes I know who Midway is and how to google thanks)

Your third post you almost admit you know the AO feature is only for focus. Seeing your target still isn't going to help if you don't understand he theory of how your equipment works.

If you are using your AO adjustment and believe this makes a change to the point of impact or somehow corrects bullet drop for distance please let me know what scope you own as I will sell the Bushnell Sportview 3-9X32mm with AO I currently have on my Ruger 10/22 and buy the model you have.

I have it zero'ed @100. I just need to get out somewhere and shoot past 100yds. Here's another question for you guys.

If the mid-range trajectory is 3"@110yds and max point blank range is 232yds but @200yds im only -.2" does that mean the round drops 2.8" in 32yds? The site im gettin my info from say the round will rise 3 and drop 3 from line of sight in 232yds. Seems like a long drop in such a short distance past 200. Per the site im getting my info from.

It will depend on the bullet used to some degree but those numbers don't seem to far off. Most charts I have seen for the .30-30 give poor performance numbers past 200 yards. The round nose bullet design while very deadly close up is not ideal for longer shots. Between 200-300 yards most tables show the 150gr .30-30 round losing roughly 4 inches every 25 yards, so even worst than the numbers you have found and that will get even more extreme as the distance increases. You have to remember the arc the bullet takes in flight is not a nice rounded shape. It tapers off very rapidly as distance increases.

Take for example (much larger distance used to help prove the point) the .30-06 ammo I use in my match rifle. It's a 168gr round at 2750fps. For 1000 yard competitions I would need to zero my rifle at 600 yards. That puts the flight of the bullet at (remember, all in inches) +34@300, 0@600, -33@700, -240@1000. Between 300-600 yards it loses 34in but from 600-700 it will lose 33 more, and yes, that is 240 inches of drop between 600 and 1000 yards. My initial point of aim to take a 1000 yard shot is 20 feet higher than the target and that is with the gun already zero'd for 600 yards.

The adjustable objective on a scope does not adjust bullet drop or the alignment of the crosshairs on your target. It compansates for parralax interally in the optics and allows the focal plane of the reticle to apear the same as the target. I have owned and shot several AO scoped rifles.

The only scope I know of that does anything like what R1 is talking about is the Burris Eliminator. http://www.burrisoptics.com/laserscope.html It uses a laser rangefinder to get distance and them computes your hold point from a set of programmable tables. Pretty trick setup, still afraid to ask the price of one.

'75 Dodge D-100 pickup

'85 Ford Tempo sport

'77 Oldsmobile Omega (2dr hatchback)

'96 VW GTI

'01 VW GTI

'06 Ford Mustang

The mustang is the only one I still own. The rest seem to have all met with odd endings.