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I recently saw an article regarding a police department in Florida giving up their H-D police rides for Victory, and the benefits of doing so were numerous. http://www2.tbo.com/news/plant-city/2011/oct/21/police-ditch-harleys-in-favor-of-victory-motorcycl-ar-273306/

With windows 7 microsoft finally brought 64 bit architecture from the server systems down to home and business operating systems. Software is still quite a bit behind, so the majority of common programs will still be operating in 32 bit mode, and 64 bit windows handles that very well. Having the ability to go beyond 8 gig of memory is a nice feature to keep that computer useful for a few years but it would be overkill to install more than that for the time being and for most people's needs.

Going that route will save you money. Typically ordering the parts from newegg has other money saving advantages too. *wink wink nudge nudge*.

The guy in the second post offered a link to an Asus machine on newegg, it's not a bad deal either. It's free shipping so that's even better.

I've been in the IT business for over 10 years and I agree with the previous post with the exception of Toshiba, they are junk as well and I used to be a Toshiba warranty technician. I have seen decent useful life from Asus, Acer, Lenovo and Dell computers that were purchased from Dell, and not from the big box stores. The Dell machines sold at Best Buy, Walmart etc. are not the same machines that Dell sells directly, they are manufactured to meet the price points the stores demand. My advice to you is to go to a reputable site like Newegg and build your own tower using good quality components. You can buy a barebones system so you know all the parts will work together. HP was once a reputable name for computers, printers and more but they have gone to great lengths to destroy the brand in the last few years.

Yep, good plan I have a buddy that does that with everything he builds. Roll, panel, whatever insulation you want and drywall helps to fireproof.

Yes for sure I agree, if you're not well insulated it's not too easy to keep a space heated consistently. At the very least start off by getting some of the 4x8 foam panels and do the walls and ceiling. Once you've done that, heating (and cooling) is much easier.

I have the double propane tanktop heater. It's rated at 30,000 btus with both running on high. The expected time is 14 hours to empty a 20lb tank. I hardly ever use both burners and can heat my 800 square foot garage to a comfortable 60 degrees or more in hardly any time at all. No fumes, approved for indoor use. The nice thing about propane is it's a fixed cost, no surprises. The rest of the time I have a gen4 edenpure running that can max out at 5000 btus and only requires a 20 amp circuit. The edenpure was a scratch and dent unit I found on ebay for half retail price and I usually run it at 50% or less.

My question is what is the intended purpose for heating the garage? There's a difference between just wanting to have it decently warm around the clock (50ish) or do you intend to work out there all day? If I were a mechanic and going to be in the garage all day then one of the 220 volt electric heaters would be a good idea. If you just want it warmer relative to the outside temp then I'd go with something like an Edenpure electric heater and maybe one of the propane tank top heaters for when you are going to be out there. That's how I am currently keeping my garage heated in winter. A big electric heater is going to make you cringe when the bill comes.

I wouldn't cut into any of the bike's wiring to install LEDs. Rather you could install a tap off an ignition circuit at the fuse block with a smaller amperage fuse going to your LEDs. A 10 amp fuse is a little heavy for just that anyway. The wiring used for LEDs is such a small gauge it might melt before a 10 amp fuse would blow. You could also go right off the battery and install an inline fuse and a mini toggle switch somewhere convenient and out of the way so you can turn the LEDs on and off as you like. Radio Shack sells weatherproof mini toggles.

Yikes I'm sure that must be tongue in cheek humor. If an LED license plate frame is blowing a 10 amp fuse there's a problem somewhere. Rig up a temporary fuse and test wiring to see if the thing lights up and if so start working your way back through your wiring until you find your problem.