Geeto67

I've had past experience with Charles C. Foti, Jr., Esq. and Kahn Swick & Foti, LLC (“KSF”). It's a bogus investigation. It basically means the FORMER Atty general's PRIVATE law firm are sniffing around to see if there is a shareholder derivative suit to be fleshed out. Sometimes it works out for them and sometimes it means nothing. But those reading too fast think the gov't is about to drop the hammer on them. Do a little research into KSF's practices - it's all for drumming up business and market manipulation. the real reason the stock dropped is NUS posted earnings lower than expected. This is just suppressing the stock price further.

Some states are different on this however. In NY where I am originally from, the State issues a yellow tag vin (basically a sticker covering the old vin). I don't know the ramifications of having an out of state issued vin in ohio.

they used to sell motorcycle tires in various colors, some even made colored smoke when you did a burn out. I think the company that used to sell them was called tomahawk or something like that. I had a friend that bought a set of red ones like 6 years ago, all he could complain about was how out of round they were. I don't think they are available anymore but I don't see anything illegal about it so I don't see why they wouldn't be allowed in the US. I mean tires have been coming in different colors since there were tires.

The advantage of a lawyer in this case is the possibility of a negotiated reduced plea charge or a reduced fine. So from my position it's at least worth investigating.

If this is the first time you ever got popped for riding without a license, and your license and criminal record is otherwise clean, then you are looking at 2 pts on your license and up to $1000 fine. If the judge really doesn't like you he can order you to do 500 hours of community service. If they catch you a second time? They can (but probably won't) make you serve 6 mos in jail. Get a lawyer.

It's none of my business, but if you are having anxiety to the level where it is beginning to affect your rational thought and emotional level to the point where it is difficult to function in daily life without a weapon - maybe you might not be the appropriate person for a ccw. Gun safety starts with your brain and your ability to think clearly.

How about the wife's Audi? http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/3edbb9cf.jpg Obviously it doesn't have NY plates on it anymore but I bring it up to C&C often enough, usually unwashed.

Worse than "specialty" corvette parts people who want $400+ for the same thing you can find on eBay for $250.

That's a good tip. Thanks!

I have the actuators. Those eBay shocks are off a 1992 which is a year after the design changed. I dint just need the gear but the nut and outer crown also. Thanks for trying though.

I just need the gear drives and hardware off the top of the bilsteen fx3 stock front shocks so the condition of the shock does not matter. PM me.

That looks like a pretty straight body. I hate those bowtie taillaights with the fire of 1000 suns though. If you are keeping it stock leaf in the rear and don't want to look like Joe Dirt with a set of bright yellow snubber traction bars hanging down under the leaf springs the 1967 Firebirds came with factory traction bars that are well hidden under the chassis. Manual cars had a right and left while automatics only had a right. My buddy's car was originally a 326 H.O 4 speed so it had them stock and I believe they are actually still on the car in addition to a set of cal-trac bars. they look like this: http://www.earlyfirebirds.com/products/your-storefront-is-password-protected-with-the-password-firebird-you-can-edit-or-remove-the-password-1967-firebird-traction-bars-parts apparently, and I didn't know this till I google searched for a picture, high performance camaros came with a right side only traction bar from the factory called a radius rod. It is apparently a different setup from the firebirds: http://www.camaros.org/radiusrod.shtml

Hey Guys, anybody have any leads on a good local place to find used or NLA NOS C4 corvette parts? My father needs parts for the FX3 suspension on his 1990 Zr1. The parts are NLA from GM and ebay hasn't been helpful because a design change in 1992 means I can only use parts from 1989-1991 FX3 equipped cars. For those that don't know FX3 was the variable ride control suspension and is marked by a three position nob on the center console for Comfort, Touring, and Sport. It was available in regular C4 vettes as an option and standard on the zr1. If anybody has a pair of front FX3 shocks with the drive gears they want to sell send me a PM and we can work something out.

Sub Frame Connectors. One of my closest friends and I built up his 1967 Firebird in highschool in the early 1990s and one of the things that made the largest difference to the car was the subframe connectors. Back then it was a mild crusier and daily driver, now 20 years later it's a 10 second small block on E85 and spray. these are unit body cars and tying the front subframe to the rear just makes sense. Since it's not a resto you should consider weld in ones instead of the bolt on ones. I am not a huge fan of the rear leaf setup on these but it's expensive to swap to something else. If you have the ability to weld and fab a coil over and 4 link conversion at least is preferred. C4 Corvette rear ends are pretty cheap these days. Air ride kit as previously mentioned is also a good way to go.

1.7-1.8 is an ideal traction condition on something like sticky gummy DOT drag radials, which you are far from. thinking back when we were trying to get my friend's 04 to hook he was super happy when he cracked the 2 second 60 ft mark. But just in case you are still incredulous here is an HPP article when they were drag testing an '04 GTO (manual trans car) and they are talking about 60 ft times in the 2.18 - 2.21 range where they are just blowing the tires off the thing at every pass. some highlights include: a quick google search finds the pontiac forums groaning with guys running 2 second 60 ft times and complaining how they are blowing the tires off the thing. But don't take anybody's word for it - take someone with you and have them video your runs. you may be blowing the tires off it and you don't even know it. FWIW, my 1967 GTO runs a 3.55 gear, an automatic (th400) with a 1500 rpm stall converter, 60 series bias belted tires (30 year old ones to boot), and makes about equivalent hp and torque to your 04 ls1 and is within 300 lbs weight. it's 60ft time is consistently 1.6-1.8 and it runs between high 12s and low 13's. I have owned the car for a long time and although I am not bragging I am really good at launching it and not blowing the tires off it.

2.265 is not what I call a small amount of wheel spin. If you were hooking up you should be at least in the 1.7-1.8 range 60 ft. Did you run it through the water box? Or dry? I don't think you can judge these cars on one pass.

I'm guessing by the fact you posted 1/4 mile times in your sig you have been to the track before. Still, and not that I owned one but, launching a new GTO isn't like launching an f-body. What was your 60ft time? And your 100 ft time? Also trap speed? Edit: I see it 97mph. You should be low 14s-high 13's with that. I forgot to ask, what tires are on it? Grab a set of DOT slicks and see if they make a difference (they should). Back in 2005 a buddy of mine bought a brand new red ls1 6 speed 04 leftover. He had owned 3rd and 4th gen camaros up till that point and his last one had run 12.80s. His first pass was a 14.7. We spent all day at the track with that car just trying to figure out how to launch it properly. I think his best pass of the day was a 13.9. Then he did a bunch of bolt ons and a cam and was low 13s. Anyway, my point is even an automatic isn't necessarily a stab it and go proposition, you need dozens of passes on it to find the sweet spot where it launches without blowing the tires off or falling on its nose. Also we dyno-ed his car when he first got it, his made 305 at the wheels. Maybe you should dyno yours and see where you are at. From what I remember when these cars were new anything under 300 rwhp was indicative of a problem. Finally, I always feel with GM transmissions it's not if but when. With abuse the life of that tranny might be seriously limited. Pay attention to it and play with it a little, see if its sloppy in its shifts or in limp mode (from what I remember from 2door Tahoe ownership limp mode on a 4l60e is to bang shifts in it like its got a shift kit).

Makes sure he sits in one before he commits it the idea. I'm 6'5" and another reason I hated the JK was that on 2007 models I hit my shins on the bottom of the dash, though I drove a 2013 model two months ago and didn't have that issue. It's been over a year since I drove a TJ and I remember certain years feeling more cramped than others due to console and dash design. I believe they changed the seats and some of the dash and interior trim around 2002 and that helps makes it feel a little more roomy, but a wrangler has never been anything but cramped with the doors on. Make sure he gets one with a hardtop or both tops and full hard doors. These are expensive items to buy later on (TJ full doors can be a $1000 a set) and worth it in the winter. I have both full and half doors as well as dual tops for mine and it makes the thing so much more adaptable. A nice trick I learned was that some year Harley Davidson mirrors have a shaft that perfectly fits in the door hinge for when you remove the doors. They are DOT legal in case you get stopped, and because they are stock most HD shops have a pile of them sitting in the corner collecting dust.

As a professional in the legal field I can tell you I wouldn't wish becoming an attorney on my worst enemy. The market is too saturated due to the financial crisis wiping out a lot of the large employers while law schools churned out JD's in record numbers. I went to a tier 1 law school and before I left NYC I was waited on by a classmate of mine at a restaurant (to be fair it was a high end restaurant). When I was between law jobs after the financial crisis in 2008, I actually worked as a motorcycle tech to keep afloat. The only reason I have a job now is because I have business expirence as well and I am even considering getting an MBA to help further my prospects. It's easily 7 years plus $100k+ debt to become a lawyer now for an average $50k starting salary (if you are not working for the govt). Not a good return on investment. That being said a good friend of mine was a tech for years and then went back for an engineering degree at 30. He just graduated and has told me that the caliber of his job prospects has increased exponentially. Instead of a jiffy lube grease pit he is interviewing for jobs where he gets to break stuff as part of testing.

No jeep is really "fast" but almost all are "torque-y". I say almost all because a 3.8L making 215hp that was originally designed to tow a dodge stratus behind it can never and will never be torquey. Its more about looking at a brick wall and thinking "yeah I can climb that" every time you let off the clutch pedal in first. A 3.8 pushing a 5000lbs unlimited? I wouldn't trust it to climb a beanbag chair. It just isn't the same kind of slow that one finds fun in driving a BMW e30 318i, its the kind of slow one gets when the find out the rental car agency stuck them with the base model Chrysler Pacifica. Traditionally wranglers are light, fun raw vehicles, and when you remove two of those items (light, raw) you better make up for it with something else.

The say the same thing about the nv3500 being weaker than the ax15, and back when the ax15 was the only option they used to complain you needed an nv4500 for serious abuse. If there is one consistency among jeep people it's that they are always bitching that shit ain't as good as it used to be.

I'm saying the 3.8L is a bad mill. It was a v6 designed for Chrysler's FWD passenger cars and minivans so they didn't have to buy the 3.0L from Mitsubishi. Is it reliable? sure. does it have any business pushing a 4000-5000lb wrangler off road? nope.

the 4 cylinders are dogs just about anywhere. the 4.11 gears they come with stock make them highway safe but as soon as a lift goes on forget it. I shouldn't even have to tell you why a 4 cylinder automatic is a bad idea (yes they made them from 94-06 so in YJ and TJ models). My experience with non-car guys who buy jeeps is they probably have no business buying a jeep. I don't mean to be harsh but most jeep ownership requires you to make sacrifices beyond what is the standard in most cars today. First question is can he live without A/C and power windows? most can't. Let's just leave out YJ wranglers (1987-1995) out of the conversation. Generally regarded as the orphan and now regarded as the last "true" old school jeep with parts interchangeability going back to the CJ series. They are too old, too hard to get quality parts for, and have all the quality of a chrysler product built in the 90's. how do I know? I have owned one for 20 years. They are becoming collectors items now and it's not hard to find one someone spent $30K on doing every mod possible to it selling for less than half that because...depreciation. TJs (1997-2006) are good solid jeeps and don't require as many sacrifices as an old CJ or YJ. Generally the truck is all around more user friendly (esp the soft top which was a notorious and needlessly complicated tent erection in the past), is likely to come with A/c, and you can actually use your phone while driving and hear the conversation. They are all powered by the 4.0L inline 6 that has powered the wrangler since 1991 and is generally bulletproof. Early ones still come with ax15 manual transmissions, but they switched to NV3550s first in the Rubicon in 2000 and then all models later on. They eventually went to a 6 speed manual in 2005 and 2006 (and continue to use it in the new JK wranglers). Because the TJ has coil spring it's ride is less harsh than it's predecessor, but don't be fooled because of the short wheelbase every wrangler is like riding a pogo stick to work the difference is just how fast that pogo stick is bouncing. LJ - This is the informal name for the TJ long wheelbase they made from 2004 to 2006 under the unlimited name. These do not have the short wheelbase jouncyness of the small wranglers and I would liken them to open top 2 door XJ cherokees than actual wranglers in both usefulness and ride quality. Still powered by the inline six but because of the long wheelbase requires special and slightly more expensive lift parts. These are oddly enough the most sought after of the 4.0 inline powered six cylinders and a rubicon version one (if he can find it) would still be out of his price range but X, Sahara, or S models might be within his price range. JK - I am not fond of these. The JK unlimited though really usefull everyday weighs as much as a 1999 suburban but is powered by a dodge v-6 that makes marginally more hp than the old inline 6 without near the torque delivery (230hp vs 210 for the last iteration of the inline 4.0). even the "little" 2 door is 4000lbs (for reference the stock weight on my 1995 YJ is 3050lbs wet with hardtop and doors) The pentastar 3.6L v-6 that makes 300hp is a vast improvement for these trucks but you are talking about a 2011 and up which means probably out of his price range. Also from what I have seen lift kits for these trucks are not cheap. A lot of jeep selection depends on what he plans to use it for. If he actually plans to go off road someone's expensive YJ trail rig isn't bad but they are hell to live with for everyday driving. TJs are more than capable of road too but for the kind of money/condition he is probably looking for he isn't looking at rusty TJs he can bash into trees with on the weekends. If he literally wants a penis extending puddle cruiser (why else would someone build a lifted jeep and not take it offroad), a TJ or a JK is his best bet, esp if it is an Unlimited for the cush ride. hopefully he has lots of money for gas because jeeps aren't what I would call fuel efficient. If he has to have the big tires he should look for one with the lift already done and money spent on the good parts. People tend to forget that although the lift is kinda cheap in parts - labor isn't. Also tires alone in 33" and 35" sizes can be $200-250 per tire to start (BFG All Terrains in the 30x9.5 size on my YJ are $150 a tire). by the time you are done with the lift, the skid plate kit, the slip yoke eliminator, the custom wheels, fender flares, the tires, the sway bar disconnects, gear ratios, the high lift jack, and the stupid stuff everybody buys but nobody uses like a winch and LED light bar it's easy to have spent $5k-6K. Meanwhile as Big Oxley has said you can buy someone else's jeep for $10K already lifted with tires. Try to get him into a stock 2002-2006 rubicon if you can. the dana 44 axles are worth the price of admission. Then have him drive it stock for a year and see if he really feels like he needs a lift after that. If he never goes off road then he won't, plus Rubicons are scarce enough that he will still feel special as jeep people will still approach him in parking lots to talk about his sweet jeep (and usually ask to sell). I never lifted my yj because I never needed to, and that truck has been down some real trails in penn and upstate ny. The only place I ever really got stuck was on soft sand on the beach. And that is just about everything I know about jeeps. Final note: Friends don't let friends drive autotragic wranglers. they only build them so girls whose dad's didn't love them enough to teach them to drive manual can drive them. honestly though I have noticed a lot more guys preferring automatics for their trail rigs so it isn't the worst thing in the world if he really wants an auto, but a automatic wrangler really removes the one fun quotient that comes from driving a wrangler daily, unless he is one of those guys that looks at a manual trans as a burden - then he really isn't a car guy.

yeah 1990s e34 bmws have been cheap for a while now so that even a minor fender bender would "total" the car. I'm trying to read up on salvage titles and there seems to be a difference between a salvage title and a "rebuilt" salvage title. as far as I can tell If the car is salvage titled then it has not been inspected and you need to show receipts for the work performed, if it is rebuilt salvage then the inspection has been performed and the car is ready to be registered like any other. The BMV's site has been helpful in this distinction but it doesn't say whether the car has to be re-inspected every time ownership transfers or once it is "rebuilt" it is like any other title.

BTW, something you aren't thinking about is the chassis. So let's just say you magically find a way to get 450 rwhp into the car tomorrow without a single chassis mod. How much do you think the car will twist? wheel hop? If the lemans truly is stock it will have an frame with open C channel rails (you can crawl under the car at the door and look and see if the frame rail is open). It will also have open c channel control arms in the rear. While there are kits to box the frame rails and replace the control arms with boxed ones or billet alloy ones or fully adjustable ones (I like the metco ones myself) it kinda kills the originality of the car to box the frame. Then there are traction bars, sway bars, decent wheels and tires, springs, shocks, and if you really want to get nuts front A arms with improved ball joints if you want to toss it into a corner at 80mph. Honestly, set your goal to be about 350rwhp. properly setup you should be able to run the car on the stock rally II wheels and tires to a decent 1/4 mile time. a set of boxed control arms and some decent bushings and the car will be all the fun you could want out of it. before you do anything have the car dynoed in it's current config, if it is pushing more than 190hp to the rear wheels I would be surprised. Also do a compression test and find out if you need to go up a bore size.