hiro

Is the coolant leaking from hoses or from metal parts?

Is it possible the bike isn't a 1984?

Wow, ebay seller coulda at least put masking tape over the opening in the tank!

The S40 looks like a decent, standard/neutral, maybe retro bike. It's a big, single cylinder engine. I'm curious about how they feel.

Went through this before. Get in the $2500+ range and it will be a lot easier.

Just now, motocat12 said:

  On Sv 930

I was freaked out for a moment, then I realized that SV1000's exist. heh

1 minute ago, CrazySkullCrusher said:

also the fluid passages in it were rusted shut. Never seen that before. 

Original brake fluid maybe?!

I wouldn't mind trying a GSX-R600, SV650, a dual-sport, or an S40 to see how a thumper feels.

8 minutes ago, motocat12 said:

easier bleeding no t-junction

Ah. So they could be bled totally independent of each other? My first thought would be to work back and forth, at least at first, so there is no chance of a bubble moving from one side to the other.

I was spying these brake lines for reference. What is the advantage/disadvantage (other than the price) of having two lines coming directly off the MC? Galfer also makes lines that split off near the middle. The stock lines split off at the right caliper. Does it make a difference as long as they are braided steel?

http://galferusa.com/product/kawasaki-2012-ex-650-ninja-650-r-front-lines-fk003d496-2

Restoration skills: A gift and a cruse?

57 minutes ago, Xsr900Rider said:

I've never been to a track day and I safety wire my grips. I think mainly from when I was riding dirt bikes I did it and just bled over to my street riding. Also I don't use any hairspray or grip glue just air compressor to put it grip on and two pieces of safety wire. Never had a grip come off or loose.

At least my bar-end weights would keep the grips on the bars. The grip is solid now. In the future I'd use 90% isopropyl instead of 70%. heh

I know nothing about this, but what I heard is that the more the wheel movement is resisted, the worse the outcome is. Is it possible for a steering damper to be counter-productive if it's too stiff? (Not sure if that was mentioned.)

The thumb side of the grip twisted a little for a while. It's been almost two days and the water from the 70% isopropyl seems to be drying up finally. Unless it's just the grip springing back from being stretched a little. (I've had reconnected water supply lines leak a little until the rubber seal conformed better.) Didn't use any sticky stuff. If it didn't show improvement, I was going to change both.

BTW, the feel is a lot different now and I like it!

1 hour ago, ReconRat said:

And I'm still finding more OD dimensions, all of which say they are spec. Probably looking at various revisions from different years. Dang metric specs change quite a bit. There is a 0.2mm tolerance on OD, I think, so a 13.5mm OD that measures 13.3mm is still "spec".

Why have specs if everything is in spec?? hehe

1 hour ago, MSerfozo said:

I have 2 left from a pack of copper crush washers I got at Jeg's.  Earl's is the brand and they're 10 x 15 x 1.5.  PM me your address and I'll put them in the mail Monday if you want them.

Thanks! That will be an opportunity to test if non-stock washers will allow fluid to shoot all over my wheel and paint! hehe If the MC side is not recessed, they should work.

4 hours ago, ReconRat said:

Made me look... Checked DIN 7603a, specification for metric sealing washers, copper. Wondered why there would be differences in sizes. It's because there are differences in sizes, lol. There are seven types of M10 copper washers. The ones of interest are 13.5mm OD, 14mm OD, and 16mm OD. The other four are thicker and go up to 20mm OD. And already have found "spec" washers that are other, being 13.2mm OD, sold as standard. Anything in a radically different size, is special to the application, and might have to have an OEM part.

I was mainly concerned about the 10.1mm ID and the thickness. How thick are the ones with 14mm and 16mm OD? Looks like there might be room for a wider OD.

BTW, how does that old DOT4 look?

(While I'm at it, would braided steel brake lines up front make much of a difference? Still have stock pads and I wouldn't call the front brakes particularly responsive or strong. They are good for not over-braking, but stopping quick requires s good squeeze.)

5 hours ago, CrazySkullCrusher said:

Been using a harbor freight assortment of copper washers on everything from brake lines to drain plugs to oil cooler lines for the last 3 years. Haven't leaked a drop. 

I think I saw that kit on the way out yesterday. I think it only had two 10mm washers? (Went to get an automatic center punch. Worked well.)

Ready for testing. Not perfect, but not bad for the first time. Unless they fall off, then it would be bad.

27 minutes ago, Tonik said:

A Japanese guy is making them for Kawasaki per their specs. Some kid in China is making them for NAPA as cheaply as possible.

Point, but I'm bad enough without going OCD! I'll probably get out my digital micrometer as it is! I do wonder if thinner washers could be a problem.

13 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

Take it to the local Napa and get replacements. Kawasaki doesn't make crush washers. 

That's what I was thinking. I figured there wasn't some Japanese guy making custom washers all day. I guess they can't be flipped either since both surfaces need to seal.

10 minutes ago, TimTheAzn said:

Is it really worth buying 1 used grip as opposed to just buying 2 new ones?

Yes, because it would have allowed me to swap bars back and forth by only adding one matching grip as opposed to changing two, then needing to remove and re-install one if I changed the bars back. So, while it DID hurt to ask if someone just happened to have one laying around, it would have been very convenient. The new bars are a LOT different than what I was expecting, which is why I had a back-up plan. heh Since I just moved my existing grip, I still have a used left grip anyway! The right one is used, too! When I want new grips, I'll get them. I just wanted new bars, which I got.

1 minute ago, Tonik said:

Is a dollar worth risking your life over?

No, so should I get "genuine" Kawasaki 49091-0001 washers like a good Kawasaki fan boy? What I'm asking is, has anyone picked up generic washers to find that they didn't fit quite right?

Tiny technical details...  My brake line needs to be removed and flipped at the master cylinder. Should I absolutely change the crush washers? Is copper better? The stock washers are 10.1 x 14.5 x 1.5 aluminium. Are generic 10mm crush washers likely to work? I've seen some that have 10mm ID and are only 1mm thick. A little off the Kawasaki spec. Already planning to bleed/replace the fluid since it isn't clear anymore.

Got my new bars on at least. It's a drastic difference! I was expecting it to be a little more subtle. Everything clears, except the brake line hits a little at full lock. Still need to drill holes for the electrical stuff...and put a grip on...and adapt the bar ends.

Sanded the chrome to match the bike better. How's it look? This is for @Isaac's Papa my #1 fan!

If this were on TV I'd watch it!

On 8/1/2017 at 1:21 AM, motocat12 said:

If I sell you my left one what do I do with my right one ?

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67126/i/bikemaster-dual-compound-grips?quickView=true spend the extra $1 on the safety wire.

The after-shipping price...

Do street riders actually safety wire their grips?  I might learn to do some safety wiring anyway in case I end up on a track one day.

I saw a left grip that slips on like a throttle tube and is secured using set screws. (I need to thread-lock my bathroom hand towel holder because the set screw keeps coming loose, so I probably wouldn't trust a grip like that.)