Hwilli1647545487

I think I can answer this, even if some of my information isn't 100% accurate.

 

I have been warened away from Mobile 1 syth in a lot of different trannies. I have heard it is because that these particular trannys use Brass (?) syncros. This includes the V160 MKIV Supra transmission.

 

Supposidly the Mobile 1 can damage the brass.

 

Supposidly some other fluids cause swelling of transmission seals on the V160 as well, but I have never heard of this in other transmissions.

 

I wish I could find the link where I read that... it may have even been for the Ford Probe 2.5l transmission.

 

Regardless, only 2k miles I doubt it caused any major issues. Just put some dealer recommended fluid in it.

 

HTH,

 

Howard

Originally posted by drifter:

thats the only two thing i have to tap into

I'd have to look at the install instructions on the unit. I am not actually famiilar with the exact product that you are using, but it just sounds like a monitoring tool.

 

The Apexi units I have in my car (AFC, and AVC-R) have several monitoring functions, that are all tapped off the ECU.

 

Airflow, Tach, 02, TPS etc.

 

I can't tell you exactly without seeing the unit/instructions, but again, most of those units are fairly easy to install if you understand basic wiring.

 

If you are not comfortable doing that type of install i am sure that someone on here would help you for a beer, small fee, lunch, whatever.

 

and if not, there are a few shops in town that I'm sure would be willing to do the work for you smile.gif .

Originally posted by drifter:

Has anyone ever installed a rev/speed meter???

 

If so bout how long does it take???

As long as it takes you to tap the speedo, and tach signals on the ECU. Then add power and ground.

 

Shouldn't be a difficult install.

Originally posted by the voyeur-ager kid:

Are the N/A cars and turbo cars engine bays reversed? it looks like when comparing the two models that the engines are 180 degrees to each other.

Yes, they are two different motors. 4G63 Mistu motor or 420A Dodge Motor.

That swap is not a direct bolt in...

What are your goals.

 

Speed, or for it to just run?

Originally posted by burgels™:

My CEL is on, is there an easy way to get a code or do I just have to take it in?

You'll need an OBDII reader. So if you don't have access, then you have to take it in.

 

Does Mark have anything you can use?

I am not sure on the 1st gens, but ont he 93-94 the ignitor module would go bad inside the distributor.

 

Exactly as you described at first, but as it gets worse, the car would just shut off whenever the module would get to hot.

I'll talk to him tonight for you.

Talk to Ricki (BigBabyJesus) on here.

 

He can take care of you.

Mark, who runs it, just recently got his computer up and running.

Just read that a little closer. We installed a Buscher, not an Apexi.

 

I THINK you should still be ok though.

I believe that it does.

 

Though when we installed one on a friends car, he was using a Greddy, and we had to redrill one of the mounting holes.

Originally posted by Akula:

second post edited for content, and so it will fit this screen

 

 

http://home.columbus.rr.com/jkent1/bug.jpg here is the bug.

Cool Bug graemlins/thumb.gif Let us know how the project turns out.

Originally posted by SHIEF:

On Damn 1/16 of an inch piston rings. Honda needs to address that.

I was under the impression that did that to increase fuel economy.

I'll try my best to explain.

 

Turbos are basically two fans on a shaft. One side (the hot side)is spun my exhaust gases. This in turn spins the shaft, which spins the other fan. This other fan (the cold side) is attached to the outside, it gathers up outside air and compresses it. This in turn goes to your intake.

 

Basically you are artificially raising the compression ratio of the motor. More compressed air particles.

 

As far as your carb comment, I don't know dick about carbs, so I am not sure how you would control fuel with boost. With EFI, people normally run a variable rate fuel preasure regulator. That will increase fuel preasure xxx per pound of boost. Also you have ECU tuning to control the fuel injectors.

 

The amount of boost each turbo will push is controlled by the wastegate. The wastegate is kind of like a valve. It will control how much exhaust gas is going over the hot side fan. In this gate is a spring. The Spring has a PSI rating. That is the maximum boost the spring will hold before the exhaust preasure forces it open (and thus bleeds it off directly to the exhaust and out your tailpipe). You can trick the wastegate into thinking it has a bigger spring with a boost controller.

 

You do this by adding additional preasure to the other side of the spring to help hold it closed against the exhaust preasure.

 

Finally, the intercooler. When you compress the air it heats it up. Hot air is less dense than cold air, thus is not as effective for making power. The intercooler is plumbed after the turbo, and before the intake manifold in order to help cool down that heated up air.

 

I hope this helps. I'm sure Brett or someone else will also pipe in smile.gif

 

 

Howard

thanks much!

Thanks, That's a start.

 

 

Now does anyone know where the MAT sensor is located at on this particular motor?

Originally posted by Lustalbert:

its telling you to replace the engine.

No, it knows I hate it, and now that it's my responsiblity, it's making me pay.

Well since we are muddling up the tech section with lot's of GM 3.1 Liter questions, I figured I would add my own.

 

This is my fiancee's car, recently transfered into my name for insurance purposes. Wouldn't you know it as soon as it's mine shit starts to break.

 

First it's leaking oil (fuck it add more)

 

Then the steering feels really sloppy (probably doing this for awhile). Found part of the problem is the PS mounting bushing for the steering rack. Not 100% of the issue, but certainly part of it. Will investigate more this weekend.

 

Then last night at 5:30am she is driving to work, and the temp needle starts bouncing between middle, and pegged. She calls me on the cell. I tell her to drive it home, I leave work to take her to work.

 

Swapped the thermostat, and bled the coolant system. It seems fine now, but we'll see in the weeks ot come as it gets driven more.

 

Finally I decided to pull the codes on it (it has a service engine light on for awhile) since I was out there dicking with it. I get a code 23. Sadly I have been up for quite some time, and I don't have the book in front of me now... so my wording won't be exact.

 

I believe it was a manifold temp sensor. Low temp error. Anyone know where this sensor is located, and how to test it. If its not an important sensor (doesn't sound like it and the car runs fine). It will be another "fuck it" She is getting a new car in Spring anyway.

 

Anyway Had to vent a little with my question.

 

TIA,

 

Howard

Originally posted by silverbullet:

lol..yes i can tell the difference.....the only thing that threw me off was the fact that the guy before me used automatic transmission fluid as powersteering fluid...which ate away at the pipes causing a hole...but i seemed to make the whole bigger when i had to drop the engine...and yes..it is crazy to have to drop the engine to get to the oil pan...but it was the only way to do it..im not retarted...lol..and as of right now...ive been tearing it apart..and im thinking that it is the plug where the distributer used to be such as ficus mentioned earlier b/c their seems to be alot of oil in that general area...atleast i hope that is the problem and not a rear main or a head gasket..

thanks for the help smile.gif

That is your best case scenerio. Cheap (2 bucks) and easy smile.gif

To my knowledge those motors leak oil commonly from three places.

 

Rear Main Seal.

a small oil pump O ring

from a small plug where a distributor used to be (earlier versions of this motor ran a disti instead of coil packs, and instead of resdesigning the head, they just plugged the hole) . Can you tell approx where the leak is coming from?

 

As far as why it's running shitty. You said you pulled the motor? My guess is you probably didn't put something back correctly. Start troublshooting, especially vacuum lines. A commonly missed one is the fuel preasure regulator. It's on the driverside of the intake manifold.

Originally posted by Soon2B300Z:

so are the pipes expensive?? and I heard there were metal pipes, are the metal any better or are they just for looks??

I am pretty sure those are metal. I am not aware that anyone makes an after market set. If you need them you are probably going to have to get them from Nissan.

 

That is an odd question by the way. Why do you ask it.

Originally posted by BFastCamaro:

I'm looking into buying a TT 300zx, but it dosen't hav a turbo timer. So I was woundering if anyone could recommend a specific brand that I should go with?? how easy are they to install and could anyone on CR help me out??

A. Get the harness so you don't have to hack your ignition wires all to hell.

 

B. If you can wire basic electronics, they are very easy.

 

C. Some of the more feature laden models require extra connections for RPM, Speedo, etc. on the ECU

 

75 bucks for an HKS Type 1 is a smokin deal, but make sure you use the harness with it (~$25 bucks). See A.

 

HTH,

 

Howard

A. Check to see if the valve is leaking.

 

B. Buy a vent kit, and run it back into the plumbing so it isn't venting to atmosphere.

 

OR

 

C. Run it in parallel with the stock BOV. This is what I did to prevent stalling issues. Stock BOV vents at lower preasure, aftermarket makes loud cool noises under high preasure.