Hwilli1647545487

Originally posted by RotaryHead:

I have this timer on one of my rx7's. The

speed and tach are also off. The tach is

off over 1k. But since yours is doing the

same thing, I want to know also if it can

be fixed. It drives me nuts. graemlins/wtf.gif

Everything is 100% fixed. Alarm seemed to have "learned" in on it's own.

 

RPM is programable. If you have the manual, it says how... RTFM . If not, post again and I'll put up instructions.

Yeah, it's blue.

 

http://www.supras.com/sogi/techtips/4_electrical/4012_MKIII_mod_TT_with_alarm/index.html

 

I actually don't have a keyfab. The alarm normally arms with the car off, and I lock the doors.

 

I was hoping somewhat might just know, but it looks like i am going to have to go through the electrical manual on MKIV.com

 

I also found out the manual tells how to calabrate the RPM.. RTFM!!

 

Thanks for the reply.

I just finished up the wiring of my Turbo Timer today.

 

Have a few issues. One is a general issue, the other is car specific.

 

1. The RPM display on the TT is wrong. It reads anywhere from 600-1000 RPMs to high. IO have two other units that read RPMs, and of course the TAC. All three are tapped at the ECU on the same wire. I originall had the TT tapped off one of my other units, but thought the extra wire may have caused additional resistance, so I moved it to less than an inch from the ECU itself. Still the same issue.

 

My question is, has anyone else had this issue, and is there a way to calobrate it. I am not so much worried about it being wrong, but because it is, it makes me worry about the accuracy of the speed, and other functions.

 

#2. The factory alarm no longer arms since installing the turbo timer. I found a tech article that relates to MKIIIs. It says to cut a certain wire on the TT harness, and you'll be fine. Not sure about on MKIVs though. I doubt anyone will know this one, but it can't hurt to ask. smile.gif

 

 

TIA,

 

Howard

Originally posted by Yellow Cav.:

who would you turbo a carbed engine???

Lot's of people.

Originally posted by Tinman:

Since you have no brake lights it sounds like the brake light switch also controls the shifter lock. Easy fix, test the switch, if broke, replace.

Sounds right to me.

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Originally posted by White Supra:

I think Howard has one in his garage.

incorrect

This is a very difficult array of numbers to figure out, and requires some extensive testing of an engine, but it is also the most useful. Since pretty much none of us here will ever do the data compilation for the actual CR number (requires a serious research environment), then the closest thing we can go by is the measured max CR. This is a good assumption, since the actual CR is a completely reversed harmonic process, offset so that the upper bound wave limits lie just slightly above the measured max values, but with the lower bound wave limits well below the measured max values.

I see two issues with this thread.

 

First I see a guy giving advice when he obviously shouldn't be.

 

8.5 compression ratio is fine for a turbo application. As is 9:1. Many Turbo DSM guys will swap in the N/A motor short block for a little more low end (due to higher compression), and still run high boost. The only thing I am going to agree with you is "You might need better rods/pistons, but this is purley speculation as you obviously don't know the specific capabilites of the 3.1L he is using.

 

Now on to the initial question.

 

What maked you pick the specific turbo/engine/boost levels you are discussing?

 

My guess is it's because you have easy access to those parts, and have heard that some other cars push that much boost on some other motor. My ADVICE is to do a LOT of research on your motor, it's capabilities, and then go from there.

 

As previously stated you are probably going to need a built bottom end to run that much boost... though I do know that there was a factory turbocharged 3.1 in some Grand Prix, I don't know how much boost, or its specs... Also are you sure that turbo is a good match for the motor? It might be.. I don't know, and I am not doing your research for you tongue.gif

 

or you could go the deep pocket route. Bolt everthing up, crank the boost and see if it blows smile.gif

 

 

Ok I just went back and actually read your post.

 

What you would NEED (IMO). Built shortblock. custom made manifolds/collectors. Turbo, and a fuel system. I would also RECOMMEND( but you said need) an intercooler of some sort, and all related (and probably custom made) piping.

 

HTH,

 

Sorry if I sound cranky. 2 more hours left in my 12 hour night shift smile.gif

 

Howard

http://www.quantum-racing.com/

www.probetalk.com

 

Ohio Probes section

 

Someone should be kind enough to help out.. overall a good group of guys.

Might be the valve covers. Those motors were bad about that.

Sounds like the starter.

I am going to be buying 4 new tires soon, and I was hoping people could post some reviews of some tires they have been happy with.

 

235/40/18 and 275/35/18

 

I currently have the Perelli Pzeros on there, and they seem ok, but I'd like something a little stickier. The car rarely sees rain, and isn't driven much so wear isn't a concern... road noise is though.

 

Suggestions?

Not sure about 1 quart, but I had a friend who took his truck to an oil change place... they forgot to drain the old oil. Put 4 more quarts in on top of the original 4 quarts. Put to much strain on the oil pump, killed it, which in turn killed the engine.

I am to lazy to go do this research myself.

 

What are the differences (mechanically) between a Non Turbo, and Turbo FC (besides the motor/turbo).

 

Talking tranny, dif, suspension etc.

 

TIA

Next, the Greddy unit is not a true wide band. I hear it is fairly accurate if tuned in on a dyno using a real wide band.

 

3rd, never go to Suprastore.com again. They are complete morons, which is why YOU were drawn to go there.

 

Expect to pay in the neighborhood of ~1000 bucks for a true wideband.

 

[ 24 December 2002, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

Below the belt!

Sure, looking to do a motor swap

Thanks for all your advice dicks.

 

I wrecked my car. The brakes didn't work.

Anybody know of a good way to prevent surface rust on rotors? My car has been sitting for a few weeks, and is starting to have it. The car is going up on stands here soon, so I won't be able to drive it off... kind of annoys me.

 

TIA

Do you have an overflow bottle?

 

Could be the squirrel that lives in your bumper also...

Carb cleaner, spray it at where the head and the intake manifold meets.

 

You'll have to check the vacuum lines themselves by hand.

Use Antisieze on the bolts.

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