TurboTank

none on here is sprint. just you and i. im on the list to get the evo.

thanks guys. let us know if you need anything else done

ill take the girdle

6 fingers?

yup more then we care to know about done to those things

its cheap to race. expensive to win or run up front

lol

lol im dying overhear. funny as hell

i would put a new tip on it. drill out the rivits and make a new tip and install

what brand clutch?

yea not a good design. makes getting the trans in and out easy tho, thats it. check piviot ball too

looks like dodge neon/mitsu 2.4... and is there a disk in there?

yea i fucked that one up. ill admit i listed to hear say on how the system worked instead of looking it up my self. im not opposed to admiting that at all.

nice try, that shit was broken when it came in.

thats awesome.

try using halomar on the gaskets, we stock it

your talking money again..thats not me. u have a problem with a part i built lemme know ill be more than happy to explain whats up. going to bed. my 2yo is still up for some reason

that setup would have to be for looks. it has no need. espically if you dont need the extra fuel. did u say u wanted a balla fuel system?

for your build i would have to disagree. ive been doing it that way for years. there is no need for a fuel system like that untill your beyond the walbros limits. you will need rails, fittings, lines, reg and gauge. then your are spending time running a 800hp fuel system for a 500 hp max fuel pump. get my drift? all the engine bay lines even the vapor line is coverd in sillicone themo sleeve. again same process done on erik s. car.

lol might be i wont know till i put tools away tomorrow. ok thats cool

out of everything i personaly did to the car the shifter has to be the worst quality from me. a pain it was. i think as you find things under there u will see the little extra time taken to use the correct products for the job. like with the fuel system im very comfortable with it. maximum clearence on the header, c5 reg and correct gm style push on fittings. the only thing that could have been better would be the use of stepless clamps instead of worm gear clamps.

agree.... thats why scotch locks were used for testing purposes only. they have been used in hard to reach areas for taping connections also. again you have to know how to use them. knowing is half the battle.

i think it took longer than needbe also. but that is out of my hands. eriks s. car started first key crank. aolt of problems we ran into were discused with you like the exhaust. and making a 6:1 to a 7:1 ratio shifter assembly work together. were a pain in the ass. and we got it to work. alot of people havent.

do u really think i spent 3 months under there? lol how come u didnt say anything about the cam sensor wires that were pinched off(proably from the salvage company removing the engine) there in the back fyi by firewall. i didnt do the original crank sensor lengthening, the guy who installed the engine did. honisty i thought we were golden when i found the cam sensor wires(pinched off) and fixed them.

just so this is clear. that picture is from the "harness guy". what u see is remnets of a trial and error to test out systems and circuits in the harness. the harness was a mess at that point. fyi for people not in the know. a properly crimped electrical connection is just as good or if not better than a soldered joint. keyword is proper. you have to have the right tools for the job and a 50$ set of snap-on crimpers do the job just fine. i know someone will argure with me about this but lemme tell you this ive been doing this kinda thing for longer than 99%of the people on this board have been driving. im original number 115 i think on this board. ive built countless swaps into cars beyond peoples imaginations. (even before working at ips). since i was involved in this build about 65% of the time i will post back my thoughts on the things i did to the car. as far as the bill goes i dont have anything to do with that. Tank