Stallion Motorsports1647545491

I don't post here often, but I do lurk a bunch. There has to be a way to penalize the trouble makers, without affecting the good, out standing members. I understand that when you have a board with 4000+ members, folks arent going to get along all the time, but I don't know if closing the board for a while will get rid of the issues. I hope for the boards sake the dust settles soon, this site is fun to have around. Thanks to everyone that runs it, Tom

Are they used??? It is totally up to you, but if the heads are used you may want to see about getting them checked out first. I would hate to see you dump some money into a beat-up set of heads. I have seen it go both ways, a used set look and perform like new, and a used set look new and be completly ruined. If you find a used set locally usually if the seller wants to sell them, they will let you get them looked at by a machine shop first. Oh yeah and there ins't really anything wrong with that set-up. Just my .02 Tom

My girlfriend has a Magnaflow cat-back on her 2000 EX. It isn't that bad at all. Very quiet from idle to 2000rpms then it opens up. As far as horsepower gains, it feels slower Tom

Thanks Tom

Ricky, Sorry I think I am thinking way to hard to figure out what TW stands for? Temp...? Thanks Again, Tom

Hey guys I am in need of a little help, or just a couple of suggestions. First off the car is a 1991 Ford Probe GL, non-turbo, 2.3 liter. I have had the car for two months and have only had this problem twice. It seems like whenever the car is driven for longer than 30 minutes (driving or traffic) it won't start back up, until the car/motor is completly cold again(1-2 hours later). It won't even turn over, almost like the battery is just dead. I am the thinking starter solonoid is just getting hot, and not letting the car re-start until it is cold again. Thanks in advance. Tom

If it was a EEC-IV I could tell you how to do it yourself, but since it isn't I will just tell you that Autozone scans for free. Goodluck, Tom

I have never had any kind of problems from my perma-cool electric fan. I just have the universal 14inch, or maybe it is 12inches, I can't remember. I have it wired to come on with the ignition, and it works great. Tom

agreed, you can't go wrong with Hawk pads. Tom

If it is an 1988 it may be a speed density car, he may not have a mass air meter. I agree it needs tuned. Tom

Chris, First off I have no idea about the Honda computer deal. I'm not trying to be a smart-ass but, how does your car run with 42lb. injectors? Any detonation, or pinging, or any signs of going lean. I am just wondering if you could get away with 42's and your stock computer? 42's are good for a bunch of horsepower. Maybe that would save some money and time. Or maybe I am completly wrong about this whole idea. Also I think Accel makes 44lb. and maybe even 48lb. as well. Tom

"a kill switch" Tom

Yeah, you should be fine with that. It must be Snell 90 or higher this year. Most guys are using 00. Tom

Good luck, I would be praying you didn't do any other damage. 2 hours pinned in red!!! ouch the good news is, the water pump isn't too hard of a fix. Tom

I know the cheapest upgrade for your fuel rails is going to be 94-95 style rails. Much bigger than your stock (if you still have stock) fox rails. I am not too sure about a fuel line upgrade you may not need it. Tom [ 31 July 2002, 06:26 PM: Message edited by: Stallion Motorsports ]

Mark at Quality on Morse rd. is the only way to go. I had my Mustang, SHO (twice), and my girlfriends Civic done there. Mark is the best!!! Tom Heise