Dave1647545494

I can only assume that that last belt for your smog eliminator worked out becuase we didn't see ya again that day

if I didn't already have too many already I'd just babysit it for you untill your dog healed up

I'll wait for the dvd, but I'm still going to watch it

take the dish cc and the head chamber volume plus the compressed thickness of the headgasket you pick and you can figure it pretty close If your staying n/a I'd shoot for closer to 10.5 or 11.1 it'll still be 93 octane freindly and you won't need some wild ass barley streetable cam to make power. you can have the heads milled down or the block decked to get everything where it needs to be.

is that a dish piston? whats the compression ration 8.5:1 ? make sure its not real low compression or you won't get the power out of it you want.

you mighta I didn't even try

seems priced low could be because of the economy could be something hidden wrong with it. I would get a carfax and ask the seller if they would let you take it to a ford dealer and have it inspected.

10 days or so when I went to philmont scout ranch one summer it didn't even rain enough to stand outside with a bar of soap

Dayco appliance parts 620 e. weber road 262-6446 I just bought a belt from them for my washer make sure you have the model number and serial number before you call. I phoned my order in and paid and they had it waiting in will call when I got there.

if it helps it appears to have some sort of 1st generation small block chevy in it with an hei style ignition that should make the trans either th350 or th400 nice lookin car wish I was in the market for one right now

my cousin owns a bar downtown I'll check with her and see what the deal is with getting it here.

I use academy electronics repair over in reynoldsburg ask for josh if you decide to call them.

10-15k to the right person 7.5-10k would make it more generally appealing

sorry my wife sold it to her mother who promptly gave it back to her as a gift

if you can find a bracket hit me up with a make and model on the other stuff and I'll "loan" it to you

it probably has a coil or a boot going bad, but you'll have to wait for it to throw a misfire code before you know wich one

Sold! lock it up

actually as long as you give the seller a bill of sale and it has a vin number its easy to get a title here for it

the got really lucky then when they guessed how much weight to stick on your driveshaft then becuase they don't have an accurate way to spin balance the driveshaft derek gave them like 3 or 4 trys at the driveshaft in his rx-7 and they couldn't get it right one trip to columbus joint and clutch was problem solved

ahaha the state goes by the model year not the build date and it needs to be 25 years old before you tag it historic

its probably low on refrigerant and the a-coil (evaporator) is freezing up and then thawing when the system shuts off and running all over the floor. have someone come out and check all the pressures and put some dye in it

what carrier are they setup for? or does it matter?

ttt

yep just run the whole driveshafty down there probably 150ish to get the u joints replaced and driveshaft rebalanced

sounds like the rubber o-ring seal for the top of the tank is bad and the sending unit f/p assy might be hoed fix the colum first and see if that makes the gauge work if not call me and I'll see if I can fix you up with all the parts reasonable congrats on getting your car back at least it was still in town and still kinda driveable