Rally Pat

Engine has a few bits missing like the driver side coils, but is otherwise mostly there. Could make for a good swap candidate. Looking for partial trades for LS swap parts like standalone harnesses or the like.

CR PRICE $500 or trade for full F body accessories

I got the rockers put back on a torqued down, then I started messing around with the intake for fun.

So this requires some explanation. I originally purchased an LS3 intake from Scott because its the first one I saw for sale and a friend was selling it. This required me to purchase the Dirty Dingo adapter plates to adapt the square port intake to the cathedral port heads. Scott then had a regular LS1 intake with fuel rail and injectors after that, so I snatched that up and returned the adapter plates as they weren't needed. I'll be putting up the LS3 intake as well, as soon as I get around to it. Scott also had a set of Corvette coil covers for sale too, and I couldn't help but pick those up for a laugh.

Also being a third gen intake, the truck throttle body bolted on, so I did that as well. I also cleaned off the water pump gaskets, and tried to get some of the grime off with a scraper. I still need to clean the area around the intake ports, but need to find a safe way to do that.

Enjoy some fun shots before I finished for the weekend!

I bolted the oil pan and timing cover back down, and with that the engine is back right side up for the first time in a few weeks. This stuff will come back off when I replace the oil pan with the one from the 944 kit, but will keep it from bleeding more oil on my garage floor. Timing cover is is loosely attached too, as you need to use either a balancer or a special tool to center it on the crank.

The reground cam requires slightly longer pushrods, these ones are like $40 on ebay and are the ones that Jon recommends for this regrind. Total cost for the regrind and these pushrods is still half of what a Sloppy Stage 2 usually goes for from Jegs/Summit/wherever. Again, its important to have perspective. We are talking a $200 motor here, not a several thousand dollar built engine.

I started with buying a new cam thrust plate, as it seals a pretty crucial oil passage that I've seen destroy a rebuilt motor with some real money spent on it where this one part was overlooked. Advanced Auto Parts luckily had one in stock. The one I pulled off had a pretty flat seal.

I liberally applied assembly lube, and slid the cam back in. (This picture is just for this post, I applied a lot more and spread it around before sliding it all the way in. Had to keep my hands clean for the picture)

Mike Luong recently did a cam in his vette, and replaced a bunch of stuff while he was in there. He was going to throw this stuff away, so I claimed it. I figured an 80k mile timing chain and oil pump was probably better than a 150k+ one, so I slammed them in.

The reground camshaft from Delta Camshaft arrived on Friday, and I got to work right away slamming it in. Jon Bodwell does excellent work and stands behind his products. Here is a quick look at the regrind itself, the "before" pictures are above.

22 are practically postage stamp size in 2019.

I recommend some Dell 27 inchers if you don't go with a curved display. Very affordable for 1080p ones if thats what you want, but I am a huge fan of the 27 inch 1440p displays they have. Great for productivity.

Still though, curved displays are where things are going ultimately.

That's cool, keep trading up until you get to an LS7

 

I'm not up on how the internals may be different, but is there any reason why you would NOT want the motor with more cubes?

Other than having to do everything over again, not really lol

PLOT TWIST

So I put up the 01 4WD 4L60E I got with the engine for sale on FB, and I think I had more interest in that than anything I've ever put up for sale on the internet. I figured I would try to recoup some cost I have in the engine. Well, someone offered me a whole other engine for it. So now, I have an 01ish (I think) 5.3, with harness and ECU. I am undecided as to if I am going to transfer the springs and stuff over to that motor or just put it up for sale, but now I have two engines so there is that.

I am back from my first trip, but leave for my next one in a couple weeks and Sean will be gone in between there somewhere, but we plan to put something in the car in June. I also still need to sort out my wiring harness situation. In the meantime, I ended up returning the Dirty Dingo Cathedral Port adapter plates, since Scott put up a stock LS1 intake manifold for sale. I just bought that, so I will put this LS3 manifold I have up for sale if anyone is interested. The LS1 intake is a much better fit since I can use my existing throttle body, not to mention it comes with injectors that fit correctly and the dead head fuel rail which is idea for my fuel setup. (More on that in a future post). I also bought a set of Corvette coil covers off of Scott, just because.

^^^^thats a great video

People need to understand that YouTube is a game, and unfortunately if you ever want your content to be seen, clickbait titles and thumbnails are part of that game.

It's that sloppy mechanic's mentality of half-assed is hella-cool, along with stupid memes and saying ls swaps are "played out"

I mean, if you have ever watched Matt's stuff, he doesn't really half ass anything. I would argue he does more real world applicable scientific research than any magazine does.

I still can't believe how fast he built it, but when you have money

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Can I buy your un-cracked flexplate and torque converter?

You can buy the whole thing and I'll give you the flexplate lol

2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4L60e transmission, came out of a running and driving truck. Will trade for other Chevrolet truck and LS parts as well.

$250

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That's an interesting accumulation of carbon!

 

Did you do the valve seals while you had the springs off? How many miles on the engine?

I was going to, but my nearby auto parts stores didn't have any in stock and I didn't want to drive across town so.....¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Maybe if the cam gets back in reasonable time and I don't have anything else to work on, I'll flip the engine back over and do the seals, other wise I'll just send it.

I think the guy said it had like 180k on it, I don't know. I'll run some cleaner through it when its running and hope for the best. I'll care more about the next engine. The main goal here first is literally just make the car move under its own power.

Pulled the cam out using the "make a handle with two water pump bolts" trick, and its ready to be sent to Jon Bodwell for regrinding. Progress may slow after this as we wait for parts to come in, and Sean and I are both going to be on vacation for a little bit. I also need to figure out how I'm going to safely wash the engine, as well as I still need to locate a full F body accessory setup. Its gonna really suck if I have to spend $1500 on all new accessories and brackets, so I am searching as much as I can for some takeoffs.

Sunday evening before the GoT finale, I finally was ready to pull the cam out. Easiest way to keep the lifters from falling through the engine when its on the stand is just flipping it over. I keep this plastic 99 Subaru Forester cargo mat around for catching oil and coolant when we flip Subaru engines on their side while doing head gaskets. After it all drains, just put some oil dry in it to clean it up.