Unleashed
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Posts posted by Unleashed
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I'm flying out to Washington DC this weekend to buy a car. What do I need to to get from the seller to register it here in Ohio. I've searched both the Ohio BMV and Clerk of Courts websites, and neither have a well documented clear process of what exactly is needed.
I'm sure several of you have bought a car out of state. What will I need, and what all needs signed before a notary?
I don't want to have to travel back to Washington if I don't have all the needed forms.
So far from what I gathered I will need:
1) the out of state title
2) maybe somekind of odometer statement? not on the back of the title?
3) bill of sale, I thought someimes the selling price was actually written on the title?
4) a vehicle inspection when I get back to register it
If you've been down this road, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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$40?
I think I have it sold, I'll keep you updated if it falls through.
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Just trying to clean up my place a little bit. I came across a box of stock Mustang parts (all off my 2000 GT). All have under 15,000 miles of use.
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/7231/springsip9.th.jpg
Springs (front and rear)- $25
Shifter - $10
Pulleys - $20
Catted H-pipe - sale pending
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Hoblick is a miracle worker with the Porter Cable..... Seriously. It looks like a new car again. If anyone has seen my car, they know what he had to work with. My car has spent basically all 9 years of its life parked outside and has 100,000 miles of wear and tear on it. The exterior was absolutely covered in deep swirl marks and it didn't even look black at all, more like a grayish blue.
Anyway, I had Hoblick perform the works on it. Detailing the outside, inside, engine bay, everything.... It looks like a completely different car now, I'm pumped. It's finally black again, and I mean a deep black. He was able to buff away marks that I never thought would be possible. The swirl marks have disappeared. He even touched up all of the little rock chips and scratches for me. When I walked up to the car I just couldn't believe it.
I was seriously going to replace the rear bumper, but after Hoblick’s work, I'm going to hold off. It looks fantastic! That was worth it alone.
When I picked it up I was in a bit of a rush, but when I got back home a few hours later, I popped the hood and couldn't believe it. The engine bay looks better then when I drove it off the show room 9 years ago. Incredible...
Hoblick is definitely a perfectionist. Just to demonstrate, I always had a small piece of felt sticking out between one of my trim pieces on the dash. It's always irritated me, but I've never done anything about it other than trying to wedge it back in between the two pieces with my finger. I didn't even mention it to Hoblick and it was gone when I picked it up. That's just one of many examples. He is the man.
I wish my digi cam worked. The before and after is nothing short of amazing. I highly recommend Ryan; you guys simply can't understand how bad of shape my cars paint was in. I was thinking about selling it, but now I think I'm going to keep it as a daily and drive it into the ground. I can't explain the feeling I got driving home, windows down, exhaust rumbling, all shined up.....I'm in love with my car again, and all this from a detailing job.....wow.
Needless to say, I will be taking all of my cars to him.
Thanks man.
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Big thumbs up to Will (614Streets) :thumbup:.
Will was great to work with. I had him fix about 6 different things on my car ranging from a leaking gas tank to a hood that was a pain in the ass to close. I wish I would have done it sooner, he can pretty much do it all. I just dropped it off and he worked around my schedule keeping me updated with the progress over the phone.
He went well above and beyond what I expected getting my O2 Sensor issues sorted out. I wouldn't hesitate going back.
Thanks again Will.
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and sorry i havent got you a price yet. ive been rather bust
Don't worry about it, I've already got someone else on the board lined up to do the work.
Thanks.
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true but if you plan on modding the car much more, the programmer is worth it in the long run. plus you can have it tuned with each mod and so forth
If I mod it anymore the first thing to go is the motor.... I've got much "bigger" plans.
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they make mils that dont need the sensors...
and a good programmer will will shut them off all together. and sorry i havent got you a price yet. ive been rather bust
Correct, but a $30 sensor is cheaper than any new mil eliminator and is alot cheaper than $300 for a programmer.
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if you have a mil eliminator on your rear o2 why are you replacing it?
all it monitors is the downstream exhuast after the cat....
Because when my old exhaust got ripped off, it ripped all of the wires clean out of the sensor itself. Therefore, even with the mil eliminator still intact it doesn't get any signal from the sensor and is throwing a MIL. The type of MIL eliminators I have, simply splice inbetween the sensor and the connector. They still require the sensor to provide a signal, however, the MIL eliminator simply tweaks the signal to replicate an acceptable level of gases.
If I could reuse the old sensor I would have, however the wires were ripped clean out of the sensor and there is no hope of getting the wires back in there and maintaining a good connection. Replacing the sensor is the cheapest repair.
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I've got a couple *little* issues with my Mustang I would like to get fixed.
1) The little rubber gasket where the Fuel filler neck enters the gas tank is bad (notorious on Mustangs) and fuel leaks out when cornering and just after filling up the tank. The problem is the tank needs dropped a little to pull the fuel filler neck out. Remove screws located inside the filler door, unbolt straps, drop gas tank and pull out filler neck. Then you just need to replace the rubber gasket and reinsert the filler neck and bolt everything back up I've already got a replacement Ford gasket. (Just be sure not to drop the existing or the new gasket down in the tank as it would be a bitch to get out
)2) I need a rear o2 sensor replaced. It's easy to get to and I already have a replacement sensor, however you will need to remove (undo electrical tape and cut wiring) the MIL eliminator from the existing wiring and splice it in to the new sensors wiring (real easy).
3) If possible, I would also like to have the hood latch adjusted a little as it can sometimes be difficult to latch the hood.
4) The float in my coolant overflow reservoir doesn't like to float anymore
, so while you work on the hood latch, if you could simply unplug the sensor on the coolant tank it would be much appreciated. (That way I won't get the coolant light on the dash).I simply do not have the time nor good location to do this myself (parking garage), and I've been busy as hell with my job. If this is something you would like to tackle, shoot me a PM with an estimate and availability and we can try and get something set up. I'm in no hurry so anytime is fine with me, just let me know. I can drop off the car and leave it overnight during the day, whatever. I've already got all of the parts needed.
Thanks guys.
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Wow!!! there are about 55 Lambo's, Ferrari's, a GT40, and a Viper downtown behind the bars on Front street right now...... They all just rolled in about 2 minutes ago with a 6 motorcylce police escort blocking all the traffic for them. Many of them had female passengers hanging out of the cars filming with camcorders. Too bad I don't have a digi cam
Anywhoooo, just thought I'd share in case someone wanted to check them out.
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It's a promotional indy car for Jim Beam, the car is essentially an indy car that has been extended to fit a passenger behind the driver. It has a detuned V8, running lights, turn signals, etc.. They were over at Weilands on Indianola twice last year and we stopped in and talked to the crew the one day. It's totally a promotional thing and it is very cool to see them on the street. You can always hear it coming thats for sure.
Here is a picture i found, not here in Columbus, but i'm pretty sure this is what your talking about.....
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z39/crossle_sean/jim_beam.jpg
Thats the car. Bastard kept me up late , as he was doing laps until about 1:00 am. I was hoping he would curb it showing off to the Brothers crowd.
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Right now there is a Bud Light/Jim Beam sponsored open wheeled car (Formula 1/indycar style) that keeps driving around the block downtown around my apartment. What gives?
It's got small headlights on the front wing and everything..... It looks like it has room for 2 passengers one in front and one right behind kind of like an airplane cockpit. Must be some kind of promotional thing, I think they may be giving rides? Kind of crazy to see one tooling around on the streets, especially at 10:00 pm. Just wondering if anyone knows whats up...
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The Budweiser Tin and the Heineken Mirror have both been sold.
I have updated the original post to show what I have left.
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TTT....
Catback is $300 OBO
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Lowenbrau and Miller Reserve for $50? I believe I bought a few of your other signs 2 years ago...
-Marc
You did, these have been in storage ever since. These are the ones you should have bought 2 years ago, they are alot bigger than the ones you picked out last time. I think you got a few tins last time as well, hopefully the Natural Light girl is being proudly displayed....
Anyway, $65 and they are both yours.
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I'll be back in Columbus this weekend, if you've still got the signs i'd love to take a look at the Stroh's and Heineken ones.
I'll contact you later this week.
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My dad has got his 98 Cobra for sale. The car is virtually unmolested (not even an exhaust....), and has been garaged most of it's life (except for the last 3 weeks). Still has the original window sticker. It would be tough to find a more well maintained and cared for 96 - 98 Cobra. Here are the details:
1998 SVT Cobra, 92,231 miles, for sale by original owner. Laser red with saddle interior. Mods include:
- Cobra R wheels, P275/40ZR17 Pirelli P Zero Neros
- H&R Super Sport springs
- Tokico Illumina adjustable struts & shocks
- Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
- Power Slot slotted rotors
- Hawk HP Plus brake pads
- Steeda timing adjuster
- Steeda underdrive pulleys
Drives great, everything works. Brake rotors, pads and rebuilt rear calipers only have 2,000 miles on them. Asking $9,450 OBO.
Pictures can be found here.
The car is located in Cincinnati.
- Cobra R wheels, P275/40ZR17 Pirelli P Zero Neros
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$10 for the router?
Sure.
I live around Tuttle mall and work Downtown, so just let me know when and where we can meet up.
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Originally, yes....But the H-pipe was sold last weekend. So now, it is just the catback.
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Take $75 for everything but the router? I'm free this afternoon.
$95 and its yours........
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I'm moving in the next 30 days and am looking to unload some of my campus days stuff. It's been sitting in storage all year. Make some offers, I don't have a need for these any longer.
Oval Stroh's Mirror (plastic frame) - $15
18” x 20”
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/5037/strohsme3.th.jpg
Big Lowenbrau Mirror (My favorite of the bunch) - $35
32” x 20”
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/6426/lowenbrauhs7.th.jpg
Huge Miller Reserve Mirror - $40
36” x 27”
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7372/millerreservevg9.th.jpg
If you have any questions just ask. All mirrors have holes in the corners from where they were mounted to the wall in my campus apartment. Not a big deal since you will be able to use the same holes.
I also have a Belkin 4-Port Cable/DSL Router, barely used - $15
Thanks.
Buying an out of state car?
in Passing Lane
Posted
Thanks guys, I thought it was going to be much more difficult then that.
Good deal. Sounds like the only thing that needs notorized is the title. In your cases was there a spot on the title to write down the odometer reading? or did you need to fill out additional paperwork? I keep reading about some kind of federal odometer statement (for cars less then 10 years old) in addtion to an Ohio odometer statement.