mrtbolt64

Like I stated, car was never for sale. If it was it was someone else trying to scam someone that had stole my pics from another site. This is not the only board I frequent.

If it was, then somone had stole my pics from another site because it is not for sale.

I dont think its hard to do but it helps when everything is out of the way, including the dash. Took a break from working on it, hope to start back here when it gets a little nicer. http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/7.jpg http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/10.jpg http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/17.bmp http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/25.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/10.jpg http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/16.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/18.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450017687/9.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450017687/4.JPG

still working on it.........but there is a large thread on the corral about this subject, hit link below http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=692716 http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450017687/11.jpg http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/12.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450017687/5.JPG

So are you still wanting the rims redrilled? Question though, redrilled on larger bolt spacing diameter or going from 4 to 5 lug

Quick fix, sandblast the pulley surfaces to roughen surface finish. Expensive fix, have larger crank pulley made for more belt wrap. These places below could machine them if paxton does not have them Reichard Racing 5231 Apple Way St. Leonard, MD 20685 410-610-5567 http://reichardracing.com or http://www.aspracing.com/frame.htm

You do realize that by blasting you stand a chance of warping any of the exterior body panels? If your just doing the undercarriage, engine bay, trunk area, you will be fine.......but even when you think you got all the sand back out, you will find more!

Unless you plan on running the sway bar you can drill the spot welds out and knock that right off the frame rail.

Dave You can come and get that tank. Out of curiousity.......in that parts car you have is there a black leather wrapped steering wheel?

With the money you have I would try to invest it wisely, not that there is anything wise about spending money on go fast parts but thats besides the point. I dont know your current combo but I would contact someone like Ed Curtis at http://www.flowtechinduction.com and have him set-up a nice top end package for you. You will always be able to re-use the parts for future needs and I think it will be money wisely spent. I think you will find out that doing the turbo build you will go threw that money pretty fast. By doing the top-end package you could atleast have something to toy with, without much time and work spent. Build it right and easily have a fun mid 11 second street toy.

rims/tires still available

http://www.my5oh.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=945&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=322d178c67591d253652fcfe26975668

Sorry Itsafastford, I was busy lastnight and I am just getting into work this morning http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450003240/8.jpg http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450003240/7.jpg http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450003240/6.jpg

pm sent

88 lays claim to the control arms and carpet Buckeye.........if you want the tank its yours, anytime this weekend or else its in the garbage sunday night. I do have a new AFCO aluminum radiator for a fox that I am not going to use if anyone is interested 175 firm 4 pony wheels with almost new tires 325 firm

Tank out of 92 coupe, come get it or it goes in the trash. Also, southside control arms for lower and I think motorsports uppers 10 bucks, if not...... to whomever takes the tank can have these as well. Black coupe carpet, decent shape........take it or its in the can Maybe other stuff, just have to see what kind of mood i am in

of the factory blocks the 69-70 were the strongest followed by 71 to 74, after 74 they are thin walled blocks but will stand up to 600 hp, but then again a bad tune and 200 hp will break a block. I have a bare 74 for 100 I will sell.

Alright..........someone gotta stick up for him.............maybe he was color blind.............lol

I can tell ya everything you need to do and what tools it will require but there is one thing I can not do and that is weld. I am machinist and cut and made all my own patches but a friend welded them all in for me. He is down and Logan other wise he may help you if you were closer to him.

I did the majority of it but some friends helped along the way. Car was up on a rotisserie till about a month ago. Engine bay, entire floor pan, cage, and trunk area is painted Base/Clear like you see. Here is when I just got it up on rotisserie http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/10.jpg here is some after, hoping to have car finished by spring. http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/10.jpg http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/18.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/16.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/19.JPG

Do both sides and be done, seems as if the passenger side is the 1st to go. Try to find some 1/16 sheet metal and you will need some 1" diameter tubing to replace the supports for the k-member. Maybe these pics might help you, have any questions just ask, I already been threw it http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/18.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450002242/19.JPG http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/450015675/12.JPG

Is the seam where the frame rail meets the shock tower rotted out?

So I assume since I just made 25 posts I got upgraded to the fucking lawn mower with V-tec on the side. Oh christ……….I feel violated I think I want the FNG back

Best tech is http://www.hardcore50.com Good place for parts if your picking up used is http://www.nmraracing.com just search the user 1st. I never had a problem though it just never hurts to be safe. Someone already made mention of turbomustangs

You can try http://www.battelle.org