gillbot

Paypal + shipping and I'll ship it over or pickup?

Paypal + shipping and I'll ship it over or pickup?

Appian Jeronimo J2SB Dual Head PCI Vid Card - $5 Number 9 Imagine 4MB PCI Vid Card (don't know if works) - $Free 3dfx Voodoo 3 3000 16MB PCI Video Card - $20 D-Link DFE-680TXD PCMCIA 10/100 Lan Card - $10 a few 80MM Panaflow 1LA's (SUPER QUIET) - $3 each Many other 80MM fans, some 15MM thick, others 25MM thick - $Varies SEALED NEW 10/100 Linksys USB Ethernet (Works with PS2 Also) - $20 LN100RT 10/100 PCI Ethernet Card - $5 Celeron 400MHz Slot 1 - $5 Celeron 433MHz S370 - $7 Cyrix 600MHz S370 (100x6) - $7 Cyrix 650MHz S370 (100x6.5) - $7 Cyrix 733MHz S370 (133x5.5) - $15 Asus S370 Slotket (rev. 1.01) - $10 PCI Soft56k modem - $5 Please note i'm in DAYTON. Add shipping if you want something unless you are gonna pick it up. [ 22. April 2004, 09:01 PM: Message edited by: gillbot ]

Appian Jeronimo J2SB Dual Head PCI Vid Card - $5 Number 9 Imagine 4MB PCI Vid Card (don't know if works) - $Free 3dfx Voodoo 3 3000 16MB PCI Video Card - $20 D-Link DFE-680TXD PCMCIA 10/100 Lan Card - $10 a few 80MM Panaflow 1LA's (SUPER QUIET) - $3 each Many other 80MM fans, some 15MM thick, others 25MM thick - $Varies SEALED NEW 10/100 Linksys USB Ethernet (Works with PS2 Also) - $20 LN100RT 10/100 PCI Ethernet Card - $5 Celeron 400MHz Slot 1 - $5 Celeron 433MHz S370 - $7 Cyrix 600MHz S370 (100x6) - $7 Cyrix 650MHz S370 (100x6.5) - $7 Cyrix 733MHz S370 (133x5.5) - $15 Asus S370 Slotket (rev. 1.01) - $10 PCI Soft56k modem - $5 Please note i'm in DAYTON. Add shipping if you want something unless you are gonna pick it up. [ 22. April 2004, 09:01 PM: Message edited by: gillbot ]

Price? PM Me.

One thing people overlook in the way an engine works is pressure. You need THREE things to burn fuel properly, spark, air and PRESSURE. This compresses the fuel/air so the spark can ignite it properly and efficiently. Basically, The higher the octane, the less combustible under pressure. That's why you wanna run the lowest octane possible, so that you get a better burn. Too high octane, the fuel burns slowly and most likely not completely.

I got a rectifier, I need a converter to get ~15v@5A off of a constanly variable 0-150vdc buss.

I have a variable voltage DC buss (0v to ~150V) and I need to pull 12-18v off of it @ ~5-10 amps. Any ideas? It's actually a car alternator sans the regulator circuit. I'd like to tap off this unregulated section after the rectifier to supply the alternator field with manually variable DC from 0~18vdc to vary the current output of the alternator itself. The down side is, I need to keep the output of the alternator unregulated voltage wise.

My bro might be interested, does it run?

You could actually go a bit more involved and get a voltage output accelerometer. The increase in voltage due to higher acceleration levels would adjust the amount of spray injected. Just connect the output to the gate of a transistor and viola! (little bit more involved than that but you get the basic idea)

IMHO, the easiest way is to use the accelerometer to sense "peaks" and this could be sent through a control box to reduce spray output, boost or throttle, whichever is prefered. I have worked on just such an item already, albeit PC based and for an industrial environment. It is for a steel mill and it senses roll to steel sheet slip and reduces mill speed until the slip or "surging" stops. Basically an auto pilot for the speed since the mill operators kept breaking coils of steel via overspeed.

You can use resistors IF you leave the o2 sensor intact. I have the wiring diagram around here somewhere. You should be able to find it on google searching for homeade o2 sensor or something of the sort.

Check the ABS light itself, some cars also won't throw an ABS code without the bulb to "complete" the circuit. I know my ABS went out in my truck when I pulled the bulb, kinda suprised me that the bulb could disable the system.

Still has a "hollow metallic" sound when in 4wd now. Checked the front diff and it had no fluid so I topped it off. Went for a play in the snow and it's still there. Any ideas?

I know most full time 4wd systems have a viscous diff or something in the center. I'm just not explaining it well enough to convey the problem. This acts nothing like ANY 4wd vehicle i've ever been in sans a rock crawler with a locker in front and rear. None of my old 4wd B2's did this, nor dod my dads ranger or B2. I think there is a problem in the front section somewhere but I have to isolate it. With auto hubs this is hard to do. With manuals, i could put it in 4wd and leave the hubs unlocked to see if it binds, then put it in 2wd and lock the hubs to check there. with the auto hubs, it's too much work fighting everything apart so i'm just gonna refurb the whole front end.

i don't think so. it rides nothing like my old '87 b2 nor my dad's 85 or 87 b2's do.

I think the problem was that the 4wd looks like it hasn't been used in years and i "broke it free" playing around with it. It hasn't made any loud noises since the first time but the 4wd system just isn't acting right. Feels like both front and rear axles have a locker in them but I doubt that's the case. I'm gonna tear into the front end and rebuild it anyhow, I just don't trust it since it's all rusty and looks like none of it has turned in ages.

graemlins/thumb.gif Already disassembled the engagement motor and fixed it. I think it was all "frozen up" from not being used in a while. It only made the noise on the first time, no noise since. Hopefully it was just tweaking itself out.

Bought this 1988 XLT Bronco II friday Nov. 21st. The dealer said the 4WD was busted and I knew it had to be the motor. Repaired the "touch drive" motor on it yesterday but didn't "test it" any since I had to do somw wire cleanup underneath. In the driveway today after some wire cleanup, I was testing out the 4WD to be sure it will engage. I had the tranny in Neutral (auto) and shifted to 4x4 and the light came on. I then shifted to low range and waited for a bit to be sure it was engaged. I put it in D and heard a LOUD BANG. I mean loud like I though the B2 was gonna wheelie or something! I immediately put it back into N and checked underneath but found nothing amiss. I went through it a few more times but it has yet to make any more noise and everything SEEMS to be working ok. Anything else I should check? What is a good way to test the operation of the 4WD system sans getting it into the mud? Also, what is the proper procedure for using the "touch drive" system? If I remember right, 4x4 can be egaged on the fly but low range needs to be stopped and in Neutral correct? Also, when I engage 4WD the light stays illuminated but when I engage the low range, the light just flashes till i put it in gear. Is this correct?

Rear engine Rear drive.

Agreed it depends on many factors but the standard seems to be scattered between 11.5 to 12.5 for max on pump gas.

I believe the LS1 is stock 10.0to1 CR and it runs fine on pump gas. I believe many are running 11.xto1 on pump gas as well.

Also, do your burnout IN FRONT of the water box. Don't burnout IN it. Back in to get water on the tires then pull out of it so you don't sling water everywhere. May or may not affect you, but it sure may affect the next guy who has to stage where all the water from your fender wells has dripped. Don't flame since suprisingly, many do not know this. Most people want to pull into the middle of the waterbox and do their burnout.

What logging software you use bill? I'll also send ya a PM on COFBA.