gillbot

That cam isn't that big. My TR230/224 is similar. 230/224 .575/.563 110LSA The 110LSA is a BITCH in an auto though. ~114 is more tolerable with an Auto trans. Usually when you spray, people tend to lean toward more exhaust duration. I've recently had my eye on the new TR cam. 236/230 .599/.575 112LSA But then again, I'm a sucker for punishment since I have a 110LSA and an Auto now, and the tuning is still not right!

For technical info check out www.bobistheoilguy.com

Color isn't a good indicator of oil condition. If you really want to know, get it tested. If not just change it every 3-6K and be happy.

I have the same problem on my Ford Aspire, I just gave up and live with it now. I need to try replacing the rim and tire to see if it helps.

I'll try that, thanks!

TH350/TH400 for me, havent decided on which yet though

I've seen guys blow through 4L60E's stock let alone modded. I think the 4L60E is alot like the 10 bolt in the F-Body, kind-of a tossup. May or May not break, personally I'm not gonna risk it. I don't beat on my car alot and it doesn't see much track use, hell it doesn't see much but the inside of the garage!

I havent but with this car who knows. I think i'm gonna try struts and 2 new tires soon.

450TQ is what it's rated for according to GM.

On my way back from Paducah, KY one night I decided to see what it would do. I've had it as high as 90 on a stretch of flat highway. Even a little grade though, this thing sputters out and loses speed fast.

This is on my ford, 1995 Ford Aspire, FWD, M5 Trans, Unknown Miles. EDIT: Since it's a M5 trans, if the speed is different, the revs will be different. My only other thought other than alignment is the front struts/springs. This car may have as few as 150k miles or as many as 350k. It had an odo replacement at 125k but I dunno the mileage of the odo that was put in. According to the service record, it was a new odo so that would mean 350K+ on this tired car. Just seems high mileage considering the condition of the car, and it's age. Edit #2: The brakes feel fine when applied. there is a little shake but nothing like what I'm feeling at highway speeds. Tires have been replaced/rotated/you name it and the shake is still there.

I've powered up amps with 18 gauge speaker wire without a load just to be sure they would come on. If it's not powering up it's either a bad amp or wired incorrectly.

At 65-70 MPH my car shakes violently at times. Had the tires balanced and a ball joint replaced but it's still pretty bad. Could it be alignment? The weird thing is that it isn't always at 70MPH, sometimes as low as 55 or as high as 75-80 MPH. It's rare that it shakes at the same speed, and if you get it to say 60 and hold it there, it will start to shake. Then you get it up to 65 and it quits for a while but comes back, then you slow to 60 and it quits again! Maybe the speedo is just off and it actually is shaking at the same speed? 1995 Ford Aspire, Unkown miles, Manual Trans

There is a "test" connection under the hood that jumpers the relay in for testing. According to my chilton, that's where you are supposed to test the circuit. I have yet to find the actual hot wire running from the PCM to the relay for "real world" circuit testing. It all tests fine via the test connector obviously, which I would assume just jumpers the lead hot via another route to the relay. I actually thought about just running a new wire/relay circuit back to the fuel pump and wire it to a key on hot lead to get around the PCM controlling the pump, any down side to this? Other than the obvious delete of the safety impact interrupt/cutoff.

$200 for the new pump, $125-150 from a junk yard. All of these have no warranty unless you buy the new strainers and everything else. IMHO, this car is not woth $200 or more, I just want it to last another year. Anything I can try that may clean gummed up gas better than degreaser? <EDIT> I was told by a few pump companies and repair shops that 99% of fuel pumps fail two ways. They either get jammed with debris or electrically fail. I've tested mine and it's electrically ok, it just keeps getting jammed and I can't find the source of the debris. I've tried a new strainer, cleaned the old strainer, and tried flushing the pump... Not sure what to try next.

Ok, my fuel pump on my Ford quit a while back and after a bit of "percussive maintenance" it started working again. I took the pump out, cleaned some debris out of the tank, cleaned it all up, and pumped degreaser through it. This worked great for about 3 weeks, then it stopped again. I let it pump about 2 gallons of gas into a gas can, once again there was a bit of debris. I checked the tank again and there was no noticeable debris in the tank. Why does it keep stopping?!?!?!?!? Any ideas? I've asked a few garages and their general opinion is that it it still works, albeit intermittantly, the pump is still good.

I believe the main difference (other than block material) between the 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0 motors is the bore size. I THINK their strokes are all the same judging by the data I can dig up. I think your best bet may be a cam and 6.0 heads. The 6.0 heads are usually found much cheaper than LS6 heads and i've read that they flow very well. Some even say they flow nearly identical to LS6 heads.

AirLid Cutout Converter if its an Auto Gears Camshaft All are relatively cheap if you look around and wait for sales or used.

I just went through this with my commuter car, just because the plegs seem to be getting gas, they might not be getting enough. Be sure to test your sensors as well. Mine ended up being the fuel pump. I just hit it with a hammer and it started working again!

Can anyone get a turbo kit for my Ford Aspire so that maybe I could merge into highway traffic at a speed other than granny? This may help me boost power to ~70HP and I can avoid getting run over by traffic

All helmet rating info can be found here: http://www.smf.org/cert.html SA rated helmets ARE NOT the same as M or "Snell" rated helmets. SA rated means "Sports Application" and must have more impact shielding (some include Aluminum "Impact" plates)and highly fire resistant materials. If a "Snell" rated helmet is required, than an "M" rated helmet SHOULD be ok to use. If it requires an SA rated helmet, well, Good luck cause they are $$$

HELMET RATINGS SA Rated Helmets Snell rated "SA" (Sports Application) professional helmets provide extreme impact resistance and higher fire protection with nomex linings and aluminum impact plates. M Rated Helmets Snell "M" (Motorcycle) rated helmets offer slightly less protection. (Snell rated Helmets) [ 13 September 2002, 07:56 PM: Message edited by: gillbot ]

How can you tell the rating of a halmet? I have a Nolan but I can't find any numbering on it.