BIGGU

thanks all today it just sold

bump $200 FIRM!

how much we talking to do this?

bump

it would have to be a Soarer 1jz ECU, but i just got one last night sorry. im selling this one so i can afford a AEM EMS for my car.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Forsale/360/IMG_1188.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Forsale/360/IMG_1189.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Forsale/360/IMG_1190.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Forsale/360/IMG_1191.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Forsale/360/IMG_1192.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Forsale/360/IMG_1194.jpg

Xbox 360 premium system. non HDMI comes with: headseat included, 20 gb hard drive 2 wireless controllers (have a product replacement on one) 2 rechargeable battery packs and base Forza 1 Forza 2 GTA 4 never have had a RRoD on this 360, and probably only 18 or so hours on it. i never play it anymore and i think it would be best to just sell it as i need a new ECU for my car. asking $250 FIRM, lowered the price because 300 was a bit high.

the one with the photo with the chick falling off the car and you all photo shopped like food and stuff that she was holding. heres a new one for you all http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p2/aquariaj1/Chi2k8/chi2k8108.jpg

sc300 with a 1jz swap....

we actually have one in my family. they really are not to bad. small on the outside but you would be very surprised if you drove one. inside it feels just like a bigger car and drives (shift wise like a jeep) and actually feels kinda sporty. as far as the wreck thing, take a look at the smart car crash they did on top gear. take into consideration that they basically made the exterior a cage for the car. as far as gas millage gets we constantly get 45-50 mpg on ours. engine wise yes they do have only 3 cylinders. we got a top of the line smart four two mainly because we got on the list when it was only a few days long. (long story) and our intent was to keep it till the list got longer then throw it up for sale to flip it. anyways go give it a test drive. its not a bad car!

nice, was brooks out there in his miata?

price drop to $135 Firm.

thanks Veritas, I still have this power supply for sale. asking $50!!!!

still go this. i know some one needs a good blow off valve!

i have a unlocked gold curve, not selling it just yet but once the bold comes out its going on sale.

another thing that was brought up to my attention, possibly the neutral saftey switch got engaged again. ill have to check the wiring on that again to be safe.

ok guys heres some update on the situation. had 2 of my buddy's both of which are Lexus techs came over to take a look at the car. we tested every fuse, every relay, check the fuel ECU, fuel pressure, spark plugs, coil packs and they all test out fine. car still wont crank. so i got it down to either the or the ECU. ecu should be fine because its sending out power to the coil packs, Ignitor, and fuel pump like it should. im going to barrow my buddy's ignitor, if it starts i know thats what went out. if it doesn't start ill be replacing my ECU with a apexi Power FC

there is a little bit of flud where the crush washer goes on the clutch master but i didnt make that extremely tight, maby ill tighten it. ill try to re bleed it again a few times and see what happens. as for the alternator fuse any ideas what things can cause it?

price you gotta pay for some good power. most powersupplys have multiple rails in them with a low wattage. this PSU has 1 single rail at a 60 Amp. also to add to the size of the thing PC power and cooling made the case longer so the fan can be moved a inch away from all the internal components this makes the unit quieter and cooler. if i turn of all the fans in the case or turn them down to around 800RPM the case is dead quiet. only thing you can really hear is the water trickling in the case.

this is a lengthy post but you can read aout half way through. any help is appreciated. OK well im sure no one here knows about this first part but ill quickly talk about that. basicly i was at the track and at the end of my run my clutch petal would stay on the floor. when i pulled it back up it would work fine but then do it a few runs later. didnt really worry about it becasue it was still working just fine. fast forward a few weeks (probably only drove the car a few times) it got worse. started doing it more often and the clutch would engage damn near anytime i moved on the clutch. I rebuilt the clutch slave on the car and it seemed better (firmness) and still didnt get any better. last night i went to the next step and replaced the clutch master. and clutch line(no need but i figure i might as well do it when i have to blead the clutch anyways) with a stainless steal clutch line. blead the system and it felt great! really firm just like it should with a 4 puck stage 3+ clutch. ___________to shorten the post you can start reading below___________ coasted down the driveway in neutral. put the car in gear and barely even moved my foot and the clutch engaged just like it was doing before i went through all of this. i played with it a few times and it got better, didn't engage when i moved my foot just kinda soft exactly like it was before i replaced all this. so anyway i did drive the car from my house to easton about 5-6 miles away. parked the car went inside staples because i needed to ship something out. got back to my car and went to unlock the car, nothing, the key fob wouldn't open it, i used the key to open the car up, got inside and went to turn the key and the car was completely dead, no lights, no dash lighting no nothing. called my dad to come give me a jump and still had nothing at all, wouldn't even crank. tried to push the car and still didn't want to start. the car acted like it wasn't going to start but it kind did for a few seconds. parked the car and started looking at all the fuses ( wasn't sure if possibly the jumper cables were by chance reversed + on the - and - on the +. also the car was charging on jumpers and the windows wouldn't go up. that happens some times right? well i replaced pretty much all my fuses in the main fuse box. the alternator fuse was blown. i checked all the fuses in my side kicker panel and they all seemed fine. went to start the car, got lights, got dash, got everything turned the key and the engine started to turn but wouldn't fire. its getting gas for sure, the starter is working just seems like maby no spark? anyone have any ideas? sorry its long but you kinda need to know the whole story. im going to remove my HKS F-Con ECU and try to run it on its stock ECU. also anyone that happens to know about the clutch issue that would also be a great help. im thinking it could be a air in the line also because after i drove it the clutch fluid went down.

i think i still have 2 Zum under my name i can prolly release it to you if you want.

" My video is what it sounds like on a T-28 @ 8-10psi on Low engine load, Spring setting "soft"" quoted from zilvia. the video he was talking about here http://s73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/?action=view&current=OriginalDriveBy.flv you can view the full thread here. http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/201768-greddy-type-r-bov-q.html

bump!

well my video card decided to die 2 days back so i did some more upgrading, PC power and cooling 750watt silencer and EVGA GTX 260 superclock edition. im getting ready to do my 3dmark so i know what my case does. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Watercooling/new%20case/IMG_2149.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Watercooling/new%20case/IMG_2150.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Watercooling/new%20case/IMG_2157.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Watercooling/new%20case/IMG_2161.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Watercooling/new%20case/IMG_2162.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Watercooling/new%20case/IMG_2163.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/2zumeunos/Watercooling/new%20case/IMG_2158.jpg