supldys

im working on a little 4cylinder, the pump is a lot like a hondas. mounts on the end of the crank (which turns it) and has a pick-up that goes down into the pan. im gonna try moving my sensor first, since it actually screws into the adaptor for my oil cooler, and then im gonna try running without the oil cooler if i can get the non-oil cooler adaptor off of my non-turbo motor. then we'll see from there whether or not some new oil pump stuff is in order or not, thanks for the help guys -Jono

if i keep it at 5000, the pressure will continue to drop. the oil pressure got real low today, like 20 psi cruising, it didnt drop any lower at idle, like it didnt move from there at all. scared me though my buddy dwayne at work whos been drag racing awhile says hes heard that happening and so to overfill the oil by a quart, i did 3/4 of a quart, but it didnt change a damn thing at all either. I tried checking my oil as soon as i turned the car off and there was plenty of oil in that pan. -jono

you're right, it does run off the crank. but ive been through two different oil pumps, pans, and pickups, and it hasnt changed at all tongue.gif

im still having the same problem i had on my old motor, with my oil pressure, not the problem with my piston tongue.gif what happens is at idle, warmed up, my oil prssure gauge (autometer) will sit around 25. when i rev up anywhere between 1000-2000, whether moving or not, it will go up to about 40psi. when im between 2000-4000 the oil will stay right below 40psi and wont move. anywhere above 4000 my oil pressure will actually drop. how fast it drops depends on how far up in the revs i go, and for how long it drops depends on how long i stay in the high revs. it dosent seem dependent on boost or throttle or anything like that, just on the revs. at first i was thinking internals, but i have gone through two blocks, each with new rings, and three different sets of bearings and it hasnt affected the oil pressure much at all. the only thing that has really stayed the same on the car is the oil cooler, but i dont know if that would cause that. if you have any ideas, itd be really appreciated!! -Jono

coffman class 01

well someone on the isuzu board was telling me theres one that fits on, but he never got back to me when i asked him about it

hua, is it one that will fit directly on? yes its for my impulse, i need the rising rate to stop a problem my 3bar map causes

im assuming from the last time this topic was up, the aeromtive was the way to go? anyone know where i can get a decent deal on this?

from what i ehar, manual transmissions are a pain to work on, but if anyone that knows how to do it wants to give me hand thatd be cool too

just need to get syncros changed, anyone know a decent priced place for this?

if you have play in the wheel then it is not simply a tire or rim, well unless the rim is not tightened down correctly, have you retorqued them since you had the new tires put on? Im going to put my guess on a wheel bearing. You get a really loud vibration when they're first going bad. If they start grinding or making any kind of metal on metal sound (clunking,scraping,etc) then its really bad, but seems like you can catch in time. If your ball joint and tie rod are greaseable, make sure they have grease in them cause they make some noise if they go dry. -Jono

is it boggin only when you hit boost or at all times? you have anything like underdrive pulley or lightened flywheel? because the car should still rev up quick at a stop, probably even with a vacuum leak. still check for leaks since it is a new intake manifold, you have to make sure. That afc will definately need tuned, do you have an EGT gauge or just an A/F gauge? Do you have stock ignition or do you have something aftermarket? and whats your spark plug gap at? and have you checked all your wires to make sure they're all on. I know its simple, but sometimes little things cause big problems. The timing could definitely be the culprit if the car bogs all the time. -Jono

thanks guys, after i get my head on this weekend, i jsut gotta figure out this intercooler piping and then she'll be runnin

anyone know where i can get those silicone connections, its 2 1/4" pipe. or know of something else i can use? -Jono

yeah i ended up ordering one from snapon about $45 much better than the $91 for napa's

a "bottle-brush" type cylinder hone I hear they're the easiest to use, and the safest if you dont want to risk "boring" your cylinders I checked my work, sears hardware and napa, couldnt find. any ideas?

jamming the flywheel and starting the engine would do nothing, if the flywheel is jammed then the motor wont spin what I would do, depending on which way the motor spin: put the breaker bar on the bolt and lay it against the ground and then tap the starter. Make sure you put its on so its loosening and not tightening oh and make sure your bolts not reverse thread, ive heard some cars are on the crank pulley, i have no idea about hondas though, i dont work on them. -Jono

err did they ever have the IHI's in the turbo coupes? cause i think that is what i need

while we're on the subject of thunderbirds, i need a turbo off a turbocoupe

shit, if its still under warranty go in and say you were "trying to merge on the highway, and noticed the car isnt as fast as it should be" or soemthing to that extent. a compression check would see if your head gasket and internals are up to par. I have a bad ring on my pulse and it EATS my horsepower away. im hoping to fix that problem with my tranny problem here pretty soon -Jono

maybe its a sign craig, you need a 1.8 ya know, the isuzu 4xf1 is a 1.8L

if you get water in your oil it'll jsut be fugly. the dipstick will not be what it normally looks like, trust me you'll know. as far as the plugs, pull em out and look. a good spark plug is easily depicted, hehe jsut not as shiny as a new one if its anything else then ask. I had the exact symptoms you're having and it was my head gasket. But i didnt have any noticeable white smoke, or mixed oil and coolant. I did have oil in my exhuast though, if i parked in one spot and let it idle, i left a big black spot on the ground behind me. When i pulled my head and intake off, everything connected to cyl#1 was covered in oil! honestly headgaskets arent that bad, its the timing i hate doing which you should do anyways. Just do em at the same time, hell you can even have your head ported and polished -Jono

unless the picture isnt giving it justice, i dont think that little thing will handle what you need. what else will you have done to get this 400hp, you might not even need to run extreme amounts of boost. -Jono

howard does wear lipstick, i've seen it anyways, the non plug wires technology has been used, theres a couple saab's that have done that in the past. Theres some companies that make aftermarket versions, i believe buschur has it on his orange 1st gen talon. as far as the pushrods, maybe they're ripping you off smile.gif but honestly if its OHC, you cant have pushrods. Take a look at the pistons next to the pushrods in that link you posted, notice it says OHV, that would have the pushrods, not the OHC

it was brought to my attention that is most likely the cause of my problem, i broke it. I wont know unless I yank her open but im almost positive. I was also told this can be welded. any ideas who would do this around town? -Jono