tristanlee85

I had considered getting the new patch panels and doing that myself. I just did a complete restore on the rear half of the truck and it took long enough by myself that I didn't want to have it back down again for a long time. I realize it can't be guaranteed. I think shopping for a new cab is my best bet at this point. Too much work in the engine and suspension to just get rid of it.

Looking for someone near the east side that specializing in rust repair, fixing cab corners and rocker panels, etc. This might be too extensive and I may need to end up looking for a new cab, but it's worth a shot to get a professional opinion.

 

I live in Pataskala. I checked with Dodds Body Shop on E. Main St which many people had recommended, but he doesn't do rust repair. Anything out to Heath/Newark I am fine with too.

 

 

It should still turn on the fuel pump and the Wait To Start light with the ignition on before cranking which it no longer does. I did check the cam sensor though with my oscilloscope. It's definitely working, but that was before I realized all the other common stuff that always comes on before starting no longer comes on.

I have looked at the pinouts on AllData to the PCM and the wires that should have 12V with the key on have power so I am at a loss.

I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out why my truck no longer starts. I have check all fuses, relays, cleaned all grounds, ran through the diagnosis on AllData and still no start. The symptoms are Wait to start and SES light no longer come on (SES sometimes flashes for a split second when the ignition is turned on), fuel pump doesn't kick on, injectors don't fire. Nothing has been changed at all regarding the wiring recently. I started last Thursday when I backed it out of the garage and come Tuesday it does nothing but crank over. My Superchips programmer can't even connect to the PCM to read DTCs or alter the tune.

 

I live in Jeffersonville, but am hoping someone has a spare PCM or is willing to let me try their PCM (or try mine) to rule out whether my computer is bad.

Sweeeeeet.

I would, but I have no way to haul the drum currently, and I wanted it just for this weekend. It's no big deal. I'll just play with Kroger's E85.

Damn, 2.5hrs for 10 gal of fuel. I e-mailed them to see what they have. They have E85 listed there, but I was hoping to get the highest content possible.

I've did some yellow page searching, but haven't found anything. I'm looking to do my own mixtures and would like about 10 gallons of the purest form if possible. Aside from trying to build a still within the next 3 days, is there any place in Columbus that would sell this buy the gallons?

H means it's happy to be warm. lol

What happened to it?

I may need to mail it to you. I don't live in Grove City anymore and I'm rarely in Columbus.

Actually I'm an idiot. Compare the timing diagram I posted to the wheels you have and look and the timing pulses. They match exactly those wheels so you are good.

I am guessing that's what they mean by the "Subaru 6/7" wheel decoder - 6 teeth on the crank wheel and 7 on the cam wheel. I will confirm with the developer and let you know.

Well, you are shit out of luck then. No decoder has been written for truck bed liner pulses. Stick to your 36-1 and 60-2 wheel.

So how many teeth are on the crank and cam wheel? 1 missing tooth? Multiple? 1 or more additional teeth? Do you have a picture of either wheel? Do you plan on a sequential setup?

It has both a cam and crank sensor, yes?

Do you know, is this the timing chart?

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/Ignition_Pixs/subaru_6_7_timing_chart.gif

That doesn't answer my question. I'm not trying to say it will work without a problem. I'm wondering what wouldn't allow you to run a standalone only because I'm curious.

Couldn't the stock ECU stay in place and just use a standalone for... what it's for? Maybe I am missing something.

There are no known stand alone ECU options for my car, the only tuning option is flash.

 

Sweeeet.

BIP373s, but if that transistor is bad, it could be killing the coil. I have spare VBs I can try, but I have some more testing to do tonight. This is the 2nd coil I've been through, and last time I checked the voltage output on the 2 transistors were the same (about .6v if I recall correctly). Maybe I'll put a scope on it and compare the 2.

Well, I got it to run, but I keep frying the coil for 2/3. I'm pretty sure it has to do with a bad ignition driver on the MegaSquirt. Still runs rather well for only 2 cylinders.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LTY7SS2Lzs

Dibs on the MS2.

 

It's still in the box collecting dust.