tristanlee85

If you could get me a 55gal steel (lid or no lid) that would be awesome. I'd rather not go any smaller, and I'd rather not have plastic. I called the company formally known Columbus Steel Drum today and they can get me a steel 55gal with no lid for $30 so if it comes down to it, I'll go to them.

 

Let me know what you figure out. Thanks!

I checked at the Ace Iron and Metal and apparently they just buy scraps. They don't sell it even though I saw the perfect barrel about 40 ft away. So, I'll keep looking, but if you do happen to go through that area, make sure it's a steel one and not plastic. After re-thinking the plan, steel is going to cause me less problems.

I happened to drive down Groveport Rd. and glanced over at the scrap yard and saw probably 20 steel barrels... I think I found my answer. I forgot that place existed.

Make a blasting cabinet out of it.

Alright. I've decided plastic or steel. Doesn't really matter. I'm looking for something that has a fully removable lid and seals with one of those locking band things.

 

I got a message to check Craigslist and there are a couple of barrels on there, but moth of them only have the 2 threaded bungs at the top which isn't exactly what I'm looking for. I should have been more specific.

I've checked at Home Depot, Lowes, Tractor Supply Co, and Harbor Freight. None of them have anything. Any ideas where I can get one of these for a decent price? I've looked online and see them for $70 or so. Surely a plastic drum can't be that much... or I'm just a really cheap person.

I drove there last August with no radio and no a/c. I survived. You can do it too.

You can probably only guess what POS might need welded on this car again... and while getting a wire brush down in there isn't going to be possible. :-\ The guy is going to re-tig it and mill the flange all for free, but he wanted me to prep it real good before I mailed it off to him so that's why I'm willing to spend some $$ to get it very clean on the inside.

I have looked everywhere for caustic soda actually. Other than ordering it online, I'm not sure what hardware stores around here carry it.

Shouldn't promote rusting if it's 304L, right? i don't see how that would work.

Well, I'm going to get some sample 304L and test this before I do the real thing. The muriatic acid I have is 31% hydrochloric and 20% baume, so it's going to stain stainless steel (oxy-moron) from what I can tell. However, the exhaust already has an abrasion from media blasting with black diamond sand, so any external staining should be removing by re-blasting the piece once it has been soaked and cleaned.

 

I just want to make sure I remove any and all carbon and oils I can before welding.

I've searched Google for a good 30 minutes on this one. What chemicals are using for chemical dipping of exhaust parts to remove carbon and whatever else (oil, etc)? I have about 5 gallons of muriatic acid, but I'm very unsure what it will do to stainless steel. I know it eats away copper on circuit boards very well though...I just need a good way of cleaning the inside of the exhaust before re-welding.

As long as he's not white he shouldn't have a problem getting into school. However, if he is, it's probably best to go off yourself right now.

I guess I don't see the problem. Don't run red lights, don't speed through intersections, and you won't have to worry about anything. In my 8 years of driving, I can honestly say I have never ran a red light. Guess what? That means you can do it too.

I'm sure he would have been pissed with a BSOD.

They have to steal your money somehow.

Performance is better if you tune it accordingly. E85 with lower mileage is cheaper than 94 octane with higher mileage. With E85 I get about 15.3 miles per dollar where as with 94 octane I get about 11.7 miles per dollar.

 

So, on a performance end it can be cheaper, but for your DD that uses 87 normally you're losing money, but helping emissions.

Set it to gasoline. As I mentioned in the PM, the sensor reads lambda so as long as the gauge is set to gasoline, shoot for 14.7 as stoich just like you would if you were tuning with that. NOTE: when the gauge is reading 14.7, that's because the sensor is reading 1 lambda. It is doing the AFR calculation for you already (obviously). Though the gauge is reading 14.7, the actual "true" ratio in the combustion chamber is really going to be 9.7:1 (or whatever the accurate value is).

 

It's confusing to understand why it works that way, because it really don't make too much sense at the beginning. When I first swapped to to E85, I spent a good bit of time trying to re-write the algorithm in my tuning software to display E85 AFRs until I realized that I just still shoot for the same AFRs as I have been.

 

So, again like I mentioned in the PM, if at say 18psi you were shooting for 11.7:1, then with E85, make sure that gauge is reading 11.7:1 as well. Also notice that while gasoline and E85 lambda values are the same stoichiometricly, they do differ in their lambda max rich and max lean power values.

 

Maybe someday in person I can explain it to make more sense.

I usually get 25mpg with it. That will include a couple decent pulls. Tune it out a little bit and you'll bump it up.

Thorne, take me for a drive?

mmmmm fries and beer. i dont even know if anyone is here. im n it for the food.

No rain yet...

I'm game I guess. I'll just eat wings and drink if it's raining. I'm starving.

By spikes I'm assuming you mean calculation in the tuning software? Anything above 100% DC isn't possible, though software can calculate it as such. With that being said, I have had spikes up to 117%. That was due to a stock fuel pump when I needed a Walbro.

Alright, my fuel pressure is 43.5psi. Doesn't change anything for me. Maybe for you though. 80% DC is a safe limit. Sure you can go above 80%. I have on my old setup with 440's gone up to and above 90%. It's not something I want to risk with what I have put into this engine.