OGRE

if you aren't doing anything you should run the lowest octane without detonation.

something like that, why does it matter, you spraying? advancing timing?

you can paint my kitchen ceiling.

you work up there? i bought my car there smile.gif

$35 for 3 pulls? everyone is invited? free food? i'm in.

graemlins/gives.gif No one arounnd columbus uses them any way. graemlins/gives.gif

like fowler said. the stock pistons and powdered metal rods suck. spend alot now or alot more later.

http://www.mustangworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smileyR.gif http://www.mustangworld.com/forums/images/smilies/gotrice.gif

longtubes are the only way to go if you are getting rid of your stock manifolds (unless they are free ) You can have hensler's shop do it. the easiest way to go about it is to drop the k-member. IMO Hooker LT headers are the best way to go because they are the only header that doesn't require that you loosen or take out the passenger header in order to change a clutch, tranny or anyting involving the removing of the tranny. Performance wise they are all pretty even.

Great deal, if you don't mind i'll post this on a couple mustang boards. ???

"... and window switch"

the problem with wet kits is they have a bad reputation for tearing up intakes when people don't use them right. I would only use a wet kit, but you have to have the right safety equip. ie. WOT switch (obviously) and a window switch so that you cannot spray below or above a prescribed RPM. Most people recommend not spraying a wet kit below 3000rpm. I personally don't like a dry kit for 2 reasons, they typically don't reach advertized hp and i don't like the idea of leaning out a particular cylinder. But that is just my preferance.

Fowlers car getting 70 on a 75 shot NX is teh first NX graph i've heard or seen below it's rating. Although all except his were kits, whereas he did a good job of putting his together himself. propane bottle warmer > *

X-pipe + flows = sounds like ass.

IMO prochamber is a great midpipe. gives you teh souund of an H but more exhaust scavenging of an X.

Those are the cheapest places we have yet to find, if you have any sites or stores that sell any of teh above parts cheaper (new) please post them, you could help quite a few people save some money. you may find some of these parts at the meet cheaper. but finding those parts new there is highly unlikely with the exeption of teh ring and pinion, i've been to the past 2, most of them are overcharging because they know they can with amount of people coming through.

it's a good way to get a cheap ring&pinion and 31-spline diff. but IMO building yours up with new parts would be much better. parts would be no more than 800. + labor. Rear End Build Up: * Ford 31 Spline Diff. - $190 (Gefracing) * Moser 31 Spline Axels - $190 (MuscleMotors.com) * Rear End Rebuild Kit - $115 (StangStore.com) * (optional) TA Performance Girdle - $159 (http://www.bbandtracing.com) * Ford Factory 3.73s - $125 (StangStore.com) might as well do it right. [ 11. November 2003, 06:38 PM: Message edited by: Teh Joel ]

the housing containing teh filter is leaking. teh filter is a glass casing that you unscrew on one end and replace the little element. Bro, if you want you can replace your glass filter with a new one, they sell them at advance auto, jegs ect. and are only like 8 bucks or so. you probibly already know to change the filter by the tank regularly anyway because it see's all teh crap in the fuel first. holley recommends you have a filter by teh carb, but to your question, will any filter fit? It should as long as it was made for your fuel delivery needs, one ment for a v-8 pickup should work, but one for a chevette would probibly be restrictive.

I thought they did, wasn't sure. I didn't know when they went from 3.4l to 3.8l in base model.

I'm 99% sure there has never been a stick for a fwd 3.8L. I can't think of a factory 3.8L stick car ever. I don't think buick,olds, pontiac has had a stick car (besides firebird & maybe suunfire/sunbird 4-cyl.) since before teh 3.8L was introduced.

as said before, you may or may not have to retard timing a couple degrees. when people swap my 99+ head on 96-98 GT's teh CR goes up to 10.5:1 and typically run on premium gas and they are still able to add timing.

I agree that a new cobra doesn't need any more gear just not for those reasons. 6th gear is taller than 5th in your car, and his theoretical top speed in that gear is over 180mph with a 4.10 gear. there is no top speed loss , and at 70mph in 6th his motor will only be spinning 2350rpm. I agree. another reason to keep 3.55 in is if 3rd gear is tall enough that he doesn't have to shift into 4th before ending a pass at teh track. In that case the extra shift of a 4.10 may negate the difference in tourque multiplication.

only one thing not mention, it's kinda common sence but... Wear Shoes.

Sta-bal is your friend.

NODS, that tank will only get 10-14 mpg if you are lucky. SB chevy tapping may not be bad all the time though, I can't coun't how many times i've pulled the valve cover off a SB chevy only to find the tapping was a lifter that needed retourqued.