Nate1647545505

thats what that Blowzilla contraption is eh?

...coff spend the money on something that would yield better gains.... most of the "top dogs" run .10, some .20 over.. whoop t do. Buy a tranny from Intense. Now. [ 11. December 2003, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: Nathan P ]

If your thinking of boring your L67, I would talk to Scott from Intense or the mighty Chris Green about other options to increase performance... Hey Chris...has anyone ever whipple blown a car?

Hello, Im helping a buddy rebuild his 1998 GMC 2500 with the 5.7 (detuned LS1?) motor. We replaced the cam with a more suited towing cam (Comp Cams 54-412-11), did a full rebuild, all new sensors, etc. The top of the block was shaved due to some damage from a blown headgasket, the block itself is still to spec. Exhaust is 2 Flowmaster 40 series, universal Cats, and Flowtech headers. I have a scan tool that keeps pulling the P1345 CKP/CMP - Crank Posistion and Cam Posistion when the timing marks are dead on! We have replaced the pickup plate and are now waiting on a new sensor. The interesting thing is, its running 9 degrees advanced constant. The Cats and headers glow after a stroll around the block. The truck has no pickup until 30, but once it hits 30 it takes off like a mofo. The truck stays in closed loop mode even at WOT. Everything reaches operating temp as should. Just wondering any ideas about what's causing the lean condition, hoping it is just the sensor... Any ideas welcome, and what data does this engine use from its O2s? all four? front two? I'm just use to the 3800 V6 engines...Thanks. [ 11. December 2003, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: Nathan P ]

ITR anyone graemlins/burnout02.gif

I will expand on the setup later tonight...

doh, sorry thought you wanted the .47 flare once again...a kick in the eballs graemlins/nutkick.gif

Thanks for the information. I'm still reviewing current turbo cars. I have hit a bottle neck since i want to run around 100 shot of nitrous and water/alch injection. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the owner of the 12psi M3 was running with an A/F of 11:1. What is the safest ratio you can run without melting anything? I thought it was 12:1 was the "stoic", but i may need to review. I just want to get all the ideas I can. Thanks still!

If this a NOS kit, thats 47/53, a 100 shot

S52 with ODBI Conversion. Full port and polished head, 1mm bigger exhaust, and intake valves, dual spring with titanium retainers, custom ground cams with stock duration with additional lift. Plannng to run Pauter rods pushing JE pistons with Total Seal rings. Final phase is the turbo/intercooler, shooting for the 500hp range, as a basic setup is easily pushing 400rwhp @ 12psi, with 93 pump gas, and EGTs and A/F(mid 11s) in a safe range. Do you think a 1400CFM FMIC would be enough to cool the T60-1/TD06 20G? I need to talk mmore to the turbo ///M community for more answers and what not.

its actually for a BMW graemlins/bubbrubb.gif

Welcome back to another one of my posts, Just wondering what the general boost limits of an intercooled car with a compression ratio of 9:1 is on 93 pump gas, drivetrain and engine fully forged. Im worried that to low of a compression rate will cause the motor to be dog slow in spool up, and to high will not let me use full use of the turbo at highway speeds. Do you supra owners that run in upwards of 20-23psi use race gas everytime you switch to a "race" setting on your boost controllers? Any light on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

Howdy, Well my quest to find an uber turbo for the winter project. First off im assuming the VE of this engine is roughly 90%, and i want to give you all CFM measurements, but i have none, only know of what is being used on the market currently. This hybrid turbo I want to match is a TD60-1 compressor side, mounted to a TDO6 20G exhaust side. Is there a better unit (say one that is ball bearing, full ceramic, etc if these are not) or is this hybrid an efficent combo. Thank you all kindly.

i figured 12 and 13 is close to 14.7 graemlins/asshole.gif hehe, just teasin. +1

dont speak to soon, you may be placing a call to ZZP in the future......

make your own kit!

Well, 12 to 13psi is nearing double atmosperic pressure. If it has a turbo kit im guessing it has lowerd your compression ratio somehow. If you keep the intake charge cool, suppress any form of detonation, and keep feeding the beast fuel, you should be able to hit jackpot. I just hope your final drive and clutch can take it! graemlins/burnout.gif what kind of car is it, and do you know the limitations of your block?

well i saw this and since i own a roots car. id give you my input. go centrifical blower compressing air creates heat, roots blowers are not efficent, hence "blower". they move air, compresison is done in the intake manifold. there are some many times i want to slap pontiac for throwing this blower on the 3.8 and not doing much to support it. a well designd blower, say a fully ported and polished roots, if that, or a twin screw would be your best choice in the supercharger area. or better yet, a centrifical. shoving a turbo in there would mean custom manfolds, meaning $$$$$! a nice vortech kit with maybe headwork, and full exhaust would do you good. good luck my friend, and yes, roots blowers make a lovely sound.

are you using DHCP from a router? Using WINS or static IPs might solve this problem.

you have to edit the playlist file So....with Winamp 3. something A playlist that you create on your Main box is something like this: ?xml version="1.0" encoding='UTF-8' standalone="yes"? WinampXML !-- Generated by: Nullsoft Winamp3 version 3.0d playlist num_entries="1" label="Playlist 001" entry Playstring="file:C:\Media\Rock-Alternative-Punk\Linkin Park-Numb.mp3" Linkin Park - Numb Length>187588</Length </entry </playlis </WinampXML main thing to focus on here is the path of the file: entry Playstring="file:C:\Media\Rock-Alternative-Punk\Linkin Park-Numb.mp3 it will point to C:\media\rock blah blah, on the computer you play it from, thus it goes whacky and you dont get your bumps. change the "c:\" to "\\COMPUTERNAME\Shared music folder\" that points it to the network sharename so you can play it from anywhere on the local network provided you have dns or netbios and some other crazy shit. moral of the story, change that to this. peace.

If it was a head gasket you would know. Oil and Coolant would contaminate each other. You would see coolant when you do an oil change, or have a chocolate colord coolant. Start with a compression test or leak down. Passen does them for ~70$ i think. Then try common maitance, plugs, wires, egr, pcv, fuel pump, fuel filter. You might want to get the car to 100% and then mod..

Not to familiar with the Summit's Fuel system and what have you, but an adjustable regulator along with a FP guage couldn't hurt. Also - check you FP at WOT, and check your sprak plug heat range, and gapping. Just some over looked things when running nitrous. Edit - Also check your line and fittings. If they are barb type, zip tie them down. If you have a Zex kit or any kit that feeds off the Schrader vlave, migth want to replace that too. [ 23. October 2003, 05:22 PM: Message edited by: Nathan P ]