Nate1647545505

I'm not familiar with your setup, what kind of charger is it, roots, centrifugal, scerw type?

Hello All, Just debating something for a long time now.. I have two options to cool the air from my blower, Nitrous or I/C. I'm limited to a dry kit, since spraying a wet shot on the Teflon coated rotors will cause the epoxy to get all gubadaga. The stock fuel system can only support ~50 shot. That's fine, all I need. So lets start the debate. Werd. Up. Nitrous: -not used all the time, this is good for the car's tranny, as it doesn't like lots of torque. -only will be sprayed after peak of torque curve. to help prevent it from plunging, also brings in the power post off-the-line, so no traction issues should arise. -will be properly fueled and safety switched, hardcore. and I do mean, hardcore. -costly to fill up? never dealt with nitrous before? $=~380$ I/C -effective. delta T shows the 1,200$ unit producing ~70-80F drop -safe, only have to worry about if the pump is working and flowing -fuel rails need to be extended. ad another 300-400$ -no fill up fee! other than coolant. -improves the TQ curve immensely, may make off the line launches a pain, and may kill tranny. $=1,200+400=1,600$. So everyone, what’s your thoughts, opinion's etc. RIGHT NOW, I'm leaning towards N2O, I don't have to play with timing to take advantage of the power, and should get me where I want to be. Thanks!

Zener Diode wired in parallel with voltage source. PM me and I can try helping a bit more if you haven't solved the problem by now

WI tuning + 13psi, on a stock bottom end is really not a good idea. You dance with danger since most WI tunes run lean(er) meaning more of a chance the motor could go boom. I/C would be safest.

EDIT: thanks mark smile.gif

how can things go back to normal when things cant go at all?? well...atleast all the whoring/off-topic/bashing/leghumpin/harrassing will go on in one post... smile.gif

i lost mah damn CD-Key :-( fuck yo CD KEY!`

...or 2k for an L67 3.8 superchargerd with another 2k in parts to make it work....

can i bring my honda integra sorry, couldnt resist graemlins/bubbrubb.gif

putting it in backwards?

Nitrous, is basically more (cold) air, Boost if you will. Take an approach as you would a turbo car. GO WET SHOT! Anywho forged would easily hold up to the higher EGTs produced by retarded timing, and excess heat created by the violent combustion. I would look at rods with the consideration of the fact they take a beating at TDC and BDC. Push, then pull, the life of a rod smile.gif . Might try looking at total seal rings and stiffer valve springs. Good luck bro!

Identify which O2 sensor, post or pre cat. There is no differance the sensor sees with or without mods. It will shoot for stoic when the car is in closed loop. Most are .500mv ~ Stoic. Hope this helps!

You want to have an O2 sensor(primary lambda - the one on most cars exhaust manifolds) that is REAL. With a stimulated output your car will think (again if it IS the primary lambda) your car is running the stoic mixture, and wont add or subtract any fuel. Say goodbye to your gas mileage. Since its 99, ODB II, get a stimulator for the post cat sensor. There is no data being used for closed loop control. You can make one for cheap with some resistors, but that could lead to problems. Have you Dyno tuned the car to MAKE SURE you maintain a safe WOT fuel table? Usually, unless you eliminate the cat, there should be no problems.

graemlins/thumb.gif already seeing you have done your homework! Im just curious about engine management, and who's kit is it.

you and 3,000,000 other people tongue.gif

Biggest advice I can give to you, is read Corkey's Maximum Boost. If you know how a turbo system works, you better know how it all comes together. Some things if your into fabbing your own: -Engine Management!!!!! -Manifold Design!!! -Fuel!!!!!!!!! -Sparrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk! Also, Maybe a turbo setup is to hard to fab, TWIN SCREW it! Twin screw chargers have perfect place on medium / small displacement engines! Good Luck, and +1 for any help ya need!

>>C:\format c: [enter]

Uhhm.... wait a second here... How are you tuning this? VIA ODB2 port or serial from the haltech? Autoptap? ALL SYSTEMS will read the output in milivolts (mV),and decode it. Wide Band just can output Linear voltage, and most units have a display to decode it. If you are using a stock O2 (aint a wideband), it will really F up your whole tune. A ZR1 O2 will make no differance. The sensor is working fine. Best hope now is to strap it to a Dyno, and tail pipe sniff it.

I like to be CARB friendly these days smile.gif

Generally: Narrowband = < 5 wires. Wideband = 5 wires. (plus a controller) graemlins/thumb.gif Im fairly certain that the ZR1 is NOT a wideband unit. It would most likely retail at > 120$ and people would demand it for DIY WB kits. And it will not be a match up part. So right now im going to label it as narrow band, just the fact that its heated may help Lambda readings. If you are using standalone, a stock O2 sensor is not going to work for tuning. I really dont see how it would even work with it in the first place. Stock Sensors are referanced around Stoic, it would simply try and get it to read .500mV in closed loop. at WOT, O2 data is like pissing out of the door, its ignored. And it should read constant value around .900-.915 for a "healthy" WOT AFR. What value is it reading ??

Just to let the lean=hot idea people know... Lean condition does set higher EGTs! BUT! A cat heats up to burn off excess fuel! Turns out we had a leaky injector! A/F was around ~12:1, and we can't yank the cat due to Cleveland's emission laws. I hate cars! graemlins/doh.gif

ahhhh yes, i forgot the c4 on twenty 2s had Haltech stand alone. , I think? as far as the ZR1 O2 sensor, If its a 5 wire, awesome. If its 2,3,or 4, you might want to get a Bosch LSU4 or the NTK UEGO. Switch type monitoring wont give you anywhere accurate results.

Its brand new , with advanced timing, that should lower EGTs though, that is what has me confused. maybe there is raw fuel getting in there.. will know soon, thanks for the replies!

graemlins/wtf.gif El Kamino Typppeee R http://www.yourcarsucks.com/images/newpics/new12.jpg

Does the cats glowing indicate a rich mixture? I'd figure so since they are trying to burn off excess fuel in the exhaust. Maybe raw fuel getting in? Thanks.