EricZ06

Good to hear! Hey also, if you are looking for Mercedes tuning email me we should be able to take care of it here.

Do you mean this one? http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/168772_10150095555719571_133015439570_5977146_1491538_n.jpg

Can't complain, I grew up out of the city it reminds me of home. I will definitely see if that restaurant is still here thanks for the recommendation :-)

Just got an opportunity that I couldn't pass up. My new shop has an engine dyno, cnc machines, plastic injection molding, etc... The owner has been in the performance industry for over 20 years. Good opportunity to learn a lot....

I did used to own ATS with Eric H. If you are thinking that I am the Eric who tuned all the Subaru's I am not.

It just might be Tuning and product design

Hey all, Just wanted to let everyone know that I am no longer at IPS or in Columbus. If anyone needs to get ahold of me shoot me an email - eric@rdpmotorsport.com Eric

Video from the stands....

Yes.

No. It was a combination of the charge pipes being too small and the intercooler end tanks not being able to flow that much air. That's why the whole air charge system was redesigned.

OMG you people are amazing........ LOL No Wrong, you do not have to do this, it just helps in the tuning process, IE. Forced Induction kits on stock fuel rails... It's not a good idea to run high intake temps on any car, forced induction or NA...... Yeah it pretty much is..... Been there done that....

ROFL

A few words on intake air temps...... If a car is properly tuned, intake temps will do nothing except decrease power. Obviously Erik has been racing his car for over a year with the current setup and no problems. The nitrous injection that was installed on the car is only helping the "problem". Basis for comparison: 1) BONE STOCK Roots blower cars (like my GTP) have intake temps of over 200 degrees (this is why they only run 12* of timing, plus they have 60k warranty's with these temps ) ps. My GTP has 180,000 miles on it and is still going strong with 200+ IAT's 2) Many of the supercharged Corvette kits that we install are 170+ intake temps (this is why you can only run 7* of timing but still make 600+rwhp) 3) Mark's Z06 that has trapped 159mph has 190+ intake temps (with a $2000 5" thick intercooler)...... Any air entering the engine above 100* F does hurt performance, but does not cause any other issues when properly tuned. Eric

From a performance standpoint I would recommend to anyone to remove their MAF and go Speed Density. MAF: 1) Causes slower fuel/throttle response 2) Is a restriction to the engine 3) Cannot accurately and consistently meter airflow in high horsepower forced induction and large cam cars You bring up the point of why GM uses MAF's and spent x millions on them and here is your reason.... They have to make their vehicles operate perfectly in a wide range of elevation/temperature and still pass emissions in these conditions :-) How many true race cars use MAF's at the track??? Eric

I have logs of the car, running, at 11.5-v12.1v in our shop... Now whether or not the car somehow "fixed" itself (?) on the way over to Brian's I will not know. I guess the "problem" was that I want cars to be in perfect running condition before I tune them. (Which isn't a shot at the owner, it's not his fault the alternator has issues, it's quite common on F-Body's, you should ask a few on the board ) On another note on your car, you really need to fix your Oxygen Sensor placement because when you drive your car with the cutouts open your ECU thinks your car is lean and will add fuel, even at Wide Open Throttle. (GM's will learn fuel trims at WOT) I understand your point when you say you want another opinion with your car (ie like a Doctor) but posting online that I said your car is un-tunable doesn't look good on me, especially when that was never said. Had you fixed your voltage issue and brought the car back, you would be in the exact place you are today with a car that is 100%, not 98%.... (not a shot at your Brian you did a great job with the car) So I will leave it there and I hope everything goes will for you in the future with your Camaro. Eric

The biggest thing that threw me off (when the cut-outs were open) is the stock O2's were corresponding to our wideband (meaning the O2 placement is not correct and they are too close to the cutout which gives false readings even to the ECU, which still should be fixed) Regardless, I would have liked if the voltage issue could have been fixed so I could have actually dyno-tuned the car in full working condition instead of having to "Tune around" it. Eric P.S. Good talking to you today Brian!

I'm sorry to poop in your thread Brian... I have no problem with you whatsoever on this but still need to add my 2 cents 1) I never said that your car was not tunable. 2) You brought your car in to me and it had issues right out of the gate (It would barely run when it showed up). I spent 2 hours driving your car the first day tuning/diagnosing and working things out for you, plus spending 1 hour on the dyno to find out your first problem.... After spending 3 hours on your car (for free) I advised you to remove the 1.8 rockers as are they are not recommended by any LS1 cam manufacturer (Including Texas-Speed who you bought the cam from, because of the aggressive ramp rate). 3) You bring the car back to me the following day with the correct rockers installed and I put it back on the dyno. After making 3 back to back pulls with the air/fuel jumping all over the place, I spend another 2 hours (for free) diagnosing your voltage issue. After the car is running for a few minutes at idle your voltage was 11.5-12v and never went over 13.1 when cruising etc. I then told you to replace the alternator (The most likely source of the problem) and bring the car back to me so we could confirm that did indeed fix the problem so I could actually start tuning the car. Upon reading this thread that of course never happened... I am really wondering why you would take your car to another shop when it wasn't fixed (You hadn't replaced the alternator yet) and have them tune it anyway (especially after I spent 5 hours for free dynoing/tuning/diaging your Camaro). Your car isn't right, and when/if you fix the issues with your car the tune is going to be off (Again) which isn't fair to put back on Brian since he spent forever getting it run OK "As-is". I could have spent 3 more hours band-aid tuning your car to get results (IE: Have it run "Right"), but that doesn't fix your actual problem. It will do so temporarily but then as soon as you replace your alternator your tune is off and you have to start all over again. Here is a back to back pull no change in tune to show the voltage effect on air/fuels..... http://ipsmotorsports.net/pictures/ebay/Eric There was no point in continuing to tune your car with it varying so wildly with no changes on my part. Bottom line: Your car still isn't right (Unless Brian fixed something while it was there) and you need to get those issues resolved instead of trying to "Fix" them with a tune. Eric

http://ipsmotorsports.net/pictures/JohnSchallenger.JPG http://ipsmotorsports.net/pictures/JohnSchallenger2%20(1).JPG http://ipsmotorsports.net/pictures/JohnSchallenger2%20(4).JPG http://ipsmotorsports.net/pictures/JohnSchallenger2%20(5).JPG Our customer brought in his 09 Challenger RT with a Mopar Performance Short Ram Intake and Corsa Catback. We installed a set of Kooks Headers and a tune. Before and After: http://ipsmotorsports.net/pictures/ebay/Eric

????????

It ran 11.88 @ 116 on 100 jets, next track day he's going with the current 150 jets and going to try and get this thing to leave harder....

http://ipsmotorsports.net/pictures/ebay/Eric 1) It's Red 2) The owner works at IPS

1900 Cash right now. Today. This is Sam FYI. I didnt logged Eric out. Let me know.

When tuning the car I could smell the clutch and figured it was new. AJ and I talked about this after the car had been tuned. The clutch does not slip on the street, but I figured I would rather be safe than sorry when it comes to a customer car.... Eric

Not to get in the middle of all this, but on a basically stock truck, the A/F is going to be dead on from the factory, they command 11.5:1 stock, and when we dyno them stock they are 11.5:1. When you change them to 12.4:1, they go to 12.4:1..... this is why you can do mail order tunes on basic bolt on cars/trucks

The car has a rev limiter, i just checked and it's at 6500rpm. We haven't tuned it yet, all we have done is just enough code deletes to do the swap. After looking into it, the ECU has been messed with before we touched it.... Eric