87GT

I sold my 2001 Dodge ram 1500 truck and forgot about my spare. If you need one and close to Polaris area it is yours. It includes the rim. If you are feeling festive you can give me a Christmas card or a 6 pack of beer. I am a cheap date it doesn't matter.

$225 obo I used this for a few months. Never overclocked and it works perfectly. Upgraded to a better card so no longer need this. I have the original box.

So are you not recommending something like a CORSAIR Hydro Series H115i AIO? If not what type of forced air heatsink do you recommend? I want something that cools more than the stock AMD Wraith setup.

I sold this outside of CR. Please lock.

PM me the details.

No throttling is happening at 80C but still I just don't feel comfortable running that hot for days/weeks at a time. I am paranoid since it is a newer build. I will think about the CPU upgrade but I am already trying to sell an even older Ryzen lol.

Beautiful car! Good luck

I run BOINC software for a few grid computing tasks. Currently I am using the stock AMD wraith cooler on a Ryzen 5 2600. If I run BOINC at 100% CPU processing time I hit around 80C consistently. That is too warm for my opinion but not enough to lockup or reboot. I throttled down BOINC to only take up half of my CPU threads and only run 25% of the time and I hit around 60C average. CR peeps who are into water cooling what is a good CPU setup you recommend? I have a nice sized spot on the top of my case to mount an inter-cooler with 2 120mm fans blowing out. If I get at least 2 fans I will have positive air pressure. My goal is to be around 60-65C on full 100% load.

$45 CR price. $50 everywhere else. I have upgraded my PC so I no longer need this. Includes original box, APU, and heatsink. Works great for an entry level gaming PC or a general workstation. PM me as I do not login often and a PM will send me a notification. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=958&pictureid=9397 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=958&pictureid=9398 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=958&pictureid=9399 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=958&pictureid=9400

Wow glad to hear he is doing better. Pretty metal on ripping out your own catheter. I've had a few in my life and they were never fun getting removed by the nurse. Shit, any time you have something up your dick hole removed you're gonna have a bad time.

Just an update. New PSU same issue. Flashed 2 newest versions of firmware. Also replaced the circle lithium battery with a brand new one thinking clearing the CMOS might help. No dice. Same issue. ASUS has given me an RMA for returning the motherboard but the turnaround time is 5-7 days plus shipping time each way. I can't return the board to amazon as it has been more than 30 days. Would buying the same board from microcenter and returning the next day work? I've never returned a motherboard. Do they check serial numbers and make sure they are the same? Motherboard wise nothing looks broken or damaged. It will pass off as like new condition.

I will try a new PSU. That should be easy enough to return.

I posted this on ASUS Rog message board but didn't receive any ideas. Posting here for all the CR PC geniuses. Also anyone have 2 DDR4 sticks I can borrow for testing? My issue is simple but I can't not find a fix, in one certain condition and other random times all of my USB ports stop working. Stop working as in they lose all power (my RGB keyboard and mouse lights turn off. CAPS lock does not light up). Sometimes after a few moments they come back other times I must reboot using the reset or power swtich, and somewhat more rare I lose onboard audio and the power and reset buttons stop working. In this final case I have to use the power switch on the back of my PSU to turn off the computer. To start off this is my first AMD build and also my first USB 3.1 Gen2 board. All of my previous builds were Intel i7s and USB 2.0 or 3.0. Also everything is brand new with the exception of keyboard, mouse, monitor, and 2 physical HDDs that are only used for data storage not booting windows. This issue has started since I built the machine. I have a much older Cyberpower UPS that I've used on 3 different builds now. I have replaced the internal battery twice but it always worked. I have a USB wire running from UPS to computer to use the monitoring software and allow it to auto turn off computer after on battery for X number of minutes. If this USB is hooked into any USB port (2,3, and 3.1) after a few minutes it loses connection to the software and stops monitoring. If I keep it hooked up even longer eventually it will disable all USB ports. Windows makes the sound when removing a USB and eventually it reads the USB hubs and everything but the UPS is fine. I figure something is up with the UPS so I no longer hook in the USB communication wire. After I think one full day I noticed when I was using my Logitech G430 headset to USB all the USB ports go out. This was really annoying when I was gaming as I lost sound and all input devices. Sometimes it would sync up and others I needed to full reboot. At this point I figured everything USB 2.0 needs to be hooked into a specific USB 2.0 hub. This board has only 2 USB 2.0 ports. I bought an Amazon basic USB 2.0 powered Hub. I hooked in everything USB 2.0 to this with the exception of my Mouse. This went to the other USB 2.0 onboard port. Same issue happens. Sometimes everything comes back after a few moments, sometimes I have to reboot, sometimes the power and reset switches don't work and I have to manually switch off PSU. Maybe it is an issue with power? My on screen UPS display reads when gaming reads at most 260-275 Watts. For the brief time it worked with the USB communication wire hooked up the windows software says the same amount. I figured Windows is turning off USB power thinking the computer is going to sleep. I disabled all sleep and power down settings on each USB hub in device manager. I set windows to never sleep or hibernate. I do the same with all my hard drives. This doesn't fix issue. Next thing I figured it the motherboard BIOS firmware needs updating. I used the BIOS easy update option using internet to update firmware. It wasn't the newest version at the time but I tried it for a day or so. Same issue happens. Next I loaded the most recent firmware to USB and update in BIOS. Wait a day and same issue. At this point I figured something is wrong with my RAM. Having older failing RAM has caused weird power issues in the past at least in my case. At the time I had 2x8GB installed. I decided to buy 2 more identical sticks. I removed the first two and installed the new two. Same issue happens. Okay so I installed all 4 sticks. Same issue. Is my RAM not compatible at this point? It is 3000Mhz but BIOS only reads 2100Mhz? I can't remember the exact speed. So I forced it to 3000Mhz and rebooted. It now reads it as 3000Mhz. Tried PC for a bit and same issue with USB ports. Okay so I decide to use the Asus AI Suite app and do the automatic overclocking. After the app figured out my system and rebooted the startup splash screen shows 13% overclocked. USB issue still occurs. Now I have no idea what the issue is. As a last ditch effort I go into BIOS and set everything to factory settings. I reinstall Windows 10 and only hook up a USB keyboard and mouse to the USB 2.0 ports. This seems to be okay for a few days. To note I never turn off my PC but I wake up one day and my keyboard and mouse are lit up, the RGB is on, fans are spinning, but nothing responds. On board LED is flashing yellow over and over again. Reset and power button doesn't work. I switch the PSU off in the back and go to work. I come home and turn it on and everything is fine. I load a bootable USB for memtest86 and run a strong test using every option it has. After 5 hours I stop the test because it shows no issues with reading or writing to RAM. Anyone know what I can try next? Is my memory not compatible with this board? I don't have any spare DD4 memory to test and I don't think I could go to my local store and buy 2 sticks just to test and return. I don't think I can return open RAM. Does this sound like a motherboard issue? If you got this far thank you for reading my wall of text. I love you. Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Processor AMD Ryzen 2600 with Wraith Stealth Cooler Memory (part number) CORSAIR Vengeance RGB 32GB (4x8GB) DDR 3000MHz Graphics Card #1 EVGA GTX 1660 Ti Storage #1 Sabrent 256GB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 Storage #2 #3 Seagate Baracuda and WD Black 3.5" HD Case Deepcool Matrexx 55 with 3 front 120mm RGB fans. One Corsair 120mm back fan Power Supply EVGA 600 BR 80+ Bronze 600W Windows 10 Home Edition 2 Microcenter RGB led strips

Still in my prayers. Get well soon brother.

One bourbon, one Scotch, one beer works quicker

The monitor has adaptive sync. I disabled that in the menu and it seem to work so far. Rebooted just to be sure and it is sleeping like it should. Hopefully this sticks but we will see.

Asus MG248 is the DisplayPort monitor.

I recently built another gaming PC from scratch and this has happened since I turned it on for the first time. Everything is brand new except a few data hard drives and the monitors. My setup is an nvidia geforce gtx 1660 ti to two monitors, #1 is DisplayPort 144hz, #2 is HDMI. The HDMI connection will sleep when I have windows power management set to sleep monitors. The DisplayPort goes to sleep, blue led goes orange, monitor says no signal, a few moments later the backlight comes on but the screen is black. I did not have this issue on my previous machine using a geforce gtx 760 and also 1050. Seems to be a known issue with Nvidia and windows 10 creation update since last year according to https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1003032/geforce-drivers/monitor-wont-sleep-windows-10-creators-update/27/ Things I have tried -Set screen saver to none -Set windows power management to turn off display after 1 minute -Uninstalled Nvidia geforce experience -Drank a lot of beer -Force closed steam and set to never auto load on startup -Remove microsoft USB xbox 360 wireless controller dongle when not in use -Remove USB headset/mic when not in use -Rebooted too many times -Uninstall/Reinstall display driver from nvidia and also windows update -Uninstall ASUStek aura app for my RGB LED control -Prayed to God for assistance but he didn't answer -Remove USB mouse when not in use -Tried all 3 DisplayPort ports on my video card -Used HDMI to monitor 1 (this fixes issue but I can't use 144hz refresh rate so deal breaker) -Shot my gun at things -Clicking start, power, sleep computer fixes issue but I don't want to do this every day -Did one sick burnout in front of my house Anyone else have this issue and find out a workaround other than manually turning off monitor? This is 2019 I don't think we should turn off monitors with a button like a savage person. I thought this was PC Master Race?

Set your PS4 internal IP address (192.168.*) on a DMZ and see if it fixes your issue. Your router should have the option somewhere in the admin portal. It is sort of the same thing as hardwiring right to your modem.

I am all for it. Since we are on the topic of heroin addiction you should watch this video. It can explain better than I can that addiction can be cured if you fix someone's environment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ao8L-0nSYzg

Hard pass

I love my surface 3 for basic office 365 work. The track pad is junk but a USB hub and wireless mouse fixes that issue. It is also great for my college courses I am taking. No longer do I have to sit on my couch doing homework and having my balls slowly cooked from laptop heat. This thing is cool to the touch.

All terrain gas powered skateboard spotted on OSU campus. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

https://www.fullconceal.com/ What are your thoughts on these? I always love a gun that fits in my pocket but never had one that didn't need a holster. The videos I've seen on youtube of firing the gun make it look like this has no problems cycling and firing. Is this worth it for a backup carry or even primary?

Dat cable management <3 GLWS