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craig71188

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Posts posted by craig71188

  1. I have what looks to be a pair of headlight surrounds (square stacked headlights) and a pair of wing/vent windows/hinges/posts for a C10 / C20 / Suburban / GMC whatevers that I got in a lot of parts. No use for them - come and get them before they go to the trash.

     

    PM for pics, not worth it to screw with hosting them.

  2. Depending on what you are hunting, I am now using "Row52.com" to set up alerts for specific cars. Not perfect, but it caters towards the self service yards, often has a pic and VIN of the vehicle and gives you a good chance of getting to it before everyone else.
  3. Can't seem to find this anywhere online so...

     

    Looking at transporting a couple of project cars. I have O/A length/width & wheelbase. I am looking for a dimension for the front and rear overhangs.

    Center line of rear axle to rear face of back bumper

    Center line of front hub to the tip of the nose

     

    Would like to have both GT and base model measurements. I would also be curious to see multiple years (or at least '84-'86 vs. '87-'88). I would think they are all pretty close, but you know what "assuming" gets you.

     

    Thanks in advance!

  4. Interesting but....

     

    $120K buys an empty box. To build some of the garages they show, double that +++

     

    After the buy in, $100+ per month "condo fees" plus property taxes.

     

    Still is interesting due to zoning and the fact you can't build something that size, that close in most areas.

     

    Long term value - could go up - could go down.

     

    Depending on use (if just storage, what's the cost for similar enclosed storage to rent)?

     

    Given the current cost of commercial property anywhere outside "the hood" it could still be attractive.

     

    Still looking and thinking......

  5. 134a retrofit on R12 is (relatively) easy.

    Flush the system, add the correct oil for 134a. Depending on if orifice tube or expansion valve - replace orifice tube and dryer (if expansion valve, be sure it's clean and leave it alone - install new dryer regardless) and then charge to 80% of original spec and temp test system for correct balance/charge and adjust as needed to get system in balance. Although R134a uses different o-rings, if the system is undisturbed, they seem to work just fine, any seepage of the old mineral oil seems to coat them and they seal well - Mineral oil is not solvent in 134a so is doesn't really "move" in the system.

  6. Picked this up from an estate, 140K miles, VERY clean car. Does still need some attention:

    Right side sun visor (might be a spare in the extra parts)

    Factory Radio cuts in and out

    Tilt Steering column has some play (common issue, no time to open it up and tighten the hardware)

     

    Car is nice cosmetically and has some extra parts (console, center caps, more as I find it) Advertised here on FB Marketplace at $3500:

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2289110851374886/

     

    CR (less hassle) price $2800

  7. Good idea to go try them on. Jegs had G-Force and Racequip starting at $180+/- for open face and $200-$200 for closed face. After trying both on, and leaving them on for several minutes, I found the Racequip much more comfortable for the shape of my head. Not as important for autox / drag / track day where the longest you will likely have it on is 20-30 min, but for a 2 hour endurance stint, it makes a HUGE difference. Also, be sure if fits a "little" snug (kind of tight on your cheeks), they do break in just a little bit and you do not want it to slide around on your head.
  8. My uncle retired from Chevy making 54$/hr.+ full Medical+full pension. He would often joke that he would fall asleep on the job, and his job was turing 6 bolts on a v6 water pumps (with a preset pneumatic torque wrench). I love him to death, but any trained Monkey would have been happy doing his job for 17.50/hr and half the benefits.

     

    The UAW is maybe the single largest reason it's difficult fr US Automakers to compete globally

     

     

    I wonder what the CEO's pay cut will be?

     

    This! 20+ years ago I believe the number quoted was 35% of a new vehicle cost was for Union pension/benefits. Now the UAW wants to stop GM from closing facilities? I'm sorry, we are bankrupting you, but you must continue to lose money as long as we're getting it???

  9. If possible, find someone who has "been there, done that" to look over your build/progress and/or go along to your first few races and "consult" as a crew chief or to just hang out and advise. Sometimes a simple suggestion / observation can save you a lot of regret.

     

    BTW, I'm more of a Champcar guy, but am willing to share some of my experience of knocking around endurance racing

    (OMG - now almost 40 yrs)

  10. One big takeaway is that it's expensive. Very expensive. And it's impossible to escape the sunk cost fallacy. By the time you're all there with a running, tech'ed in car, with food, lodging, race suits, a full refueling setup and a 55 gallon barrel of 87 octane, you're in deep. At that point if anything pricey breaks, what's another $1000 split 3 ways in order to salvage the weekend? Credit cards get a workout on race weekend.

     

    Since you have a rare car, bring spares. We drove 4 hours each way at one of our races when our A20 Prelude engine blew, because they're getting to be hens teeth in wrecking yards. Prepare to destroy wheel bearings, axles, suspension components (contact is a real problem), tires, radiators... you name it. You're paying all of this money to be at the racetrack with your friends, not sitting in a truck driving to and from junkyards and parts stores. Find a parts car, strip the suspension and drivetrain and bring it all with you.

     

    Pull off anything you can that requires special tools. At our first race we had to pull the cylinder head, which means removing the EGR system. Ugh. Trying to do that in a paddock with simple hand tools was the worst. Wish we would have stripped that off ahead of time. And the dash, and most of the wiring, etc.

     

    And lastly, the hardest thing in the world is to get everyone together at the same time to work on the car. Someone needs to be the point man and lean on people to do stuff, because everyone has lives and people flake.

     

    This.

    Also, build your spares as assemblies that match what's on the car. If you damage a strut, it's usually faster to have a full strut assembly ready to go back on with the correct spring/rate (if not a fully assembled "corner" - strut/control arm/caliper/rotor, etc). Spare motor is the same thought - but be sure sensors/fittings/etc are the same as the primary motor. Just stripping a second car of its stock parts is good, but if you've modded the originals, you may be stuck after hauling the spares along - or forced into a compromise situation.

  11. Let's talk bench grinders. I'm going to need something that is better than your typical HF unit for sure since I'm going to be doing a lot of metal work.

     

    I'm thinking something that is 3/4 horsepower. What do you guys have in your home garage or use at work?

     

    I do (what seems to me like) a lot of metal work - and my bench grinder has been packed away for years. It's an old Craftsman, 8", two speed, somewhere 1/2-1 hp..

     

    That being said, today I use:

    1) Old Delta 14" metal cutting band saw

    2) Ryobi Metal cutting chop saw

    3) 4" and 10" handheld grinders

    4) Tabletop Belt/disc sander combo (just got this recently, not sure how I got along without it all these years)

    5) Drill press - again, the biggest old Craftsman "Pro Series"

    6) I do have a small metal lathe (10x30)?, but depending on what you will be working on and space, a Mill/Drill combo might work and negate the need for a drill press

    7) Mig and Gas welders

    8) Bead blast cabinet

    9) Compressor

    10) 36" Sheet metal brake

     

    Here again, this is decades of accumulation - and metal work covers a broad spectrum. Sheet metal? Steel tubing? Aluminum bits for bushings/etc? Depending on what you will do (the most of), The above list can be cut down adjusted to fit where you will be spending most of your time.

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