craig71188

BTW...CR Price before I cut it up for parts $300!

Will entertain offers...

Anyone looking for a winter project? Picked this up for parts, but found that most won't really work for the intended car. Before I piece it out.....

Details & pics here:

https://columbus.craigslist.org/snw/6728397545.html

Cleaning out the safe, before I take these to see about trading them in....

 

Jennings J22 22 Caliber Nickel/Ivory handles, 2 mags, w/cheap holster in original box $100

 

Bersa BP9CC (9mm) Matte black finish, original box/all paperwork, 2 mags $350

 

Mauser (Yugo) M48 (8mm), matching numbers, bore is dark (corrosive ammo) but good rifling, sling, approx. 250 rounds of mil surp (corrosive) ammo on stripper clips $450

 

Face to face cash sales w/ID only, 21 or older. PM me with a phone number for pics.

The North End Wrench - see Sean (Crossle). Dave the owner updates his equipment on a regular basis. They do a lot of high end and race wheels. Some of the new computerized machines are "too accurate" and will want to keep adding small weights that aren't really needed. An experienced user will know how to place weight to accommodate the machines sensitivity for a good result.

As has been said, scan tool, pull codes before pulling dash.

Keep in mind there is CBD oil from hemp (no THC) and CBD from Marijuana (THC levels vary). THC CBD will be (is?) legal in Ohio w/a card and was supposed to have availability via dispensaries by early September.

 

As with most government run endeavors...this one is running late as well....

Text me the VIN silly.

 

Handled it, thanks!

 

Lock it up.

Found a car, stolen/salvage now on rebuilt title. Would like a bit more in depth VIN data. If you have an open subscription to a service and can run a VIN for me before I spend a few bucks, please PM me.

Green/Brown kitchen "scotchbright" pads are also an option instead of steel wool (less concern about clean up)but the acid tends to eat them up as you go.

I've heard some people say steel wool is a bad idea because it will leave tiny flakes of metal embedded in the wheels and will rust over time? Not sure if that's accurate or a load of horse shit

 

Thorough cleaning is required post use! (and I could see this being more likely with very course steel wool)

Acid based wheel cleaner (bare aluminum wheels) and some fine steel wool - you'll want gloves and goggles (that stuff stings). That should remove dirt/staining and leave the wheels looking almost white(ish). If there are pits you need to get rid of you can use a buffing wheel and buffing compound to polish them out. If you are OK with the finish post acid wash, then the cone and metal polish will get you back to a decent look.

Research Alloys.

 

They get them regularly, I can't remember but something like $7-$12 ea? Old methanol and/or cutting oil barrels typically.

Thanks for the replies so far. I read something about the blend doors and module being the most likely culprit on these cars with this issue.

 

This latest instance was Tuesday evening. Since then, the A/C has been fine. I have a feeling the compressor and charge are ok.

 

I believe the least expensive thing to check is the blend doors, but at this point, I have no clue how to go about checking or replacing those.

 

If they operate "intermittently" then the blend door motors are likely OK. More likely a control issue (PCM/BCM, grounds, or a sensor providing "bad data" - i.e. ambient air temp as mentioned).

 

A good scan tool (Not your favorite retail stores) can scan all the modules for codes. There are likely codes in one of (the many) modules Ford used for this "malfunction" (A/C commanded on as dash and then not happening).

See if the compressor is engaged and running while you are getting hot air.

 

If not, then you can look for issues like:

*Is the compressor being commanded "on" by the car BCM/PCM?

*Is the system properly charged?

 

If so, then you can look for issues like:

* Is the system properly charged?

* Are the blend doors operating properly?

 

If you actually get cold air sometimes, the compressor and charge MAY be OK and you may have an issue with either blend doors or the compressor not being commanded on because the module isn't "seeing" some piece of data properly and shutting it down.

 

(Just went through a similar issue with a '05 Silverado, cold a/c on passenger side, hot air on drivers side. Shut off/restart sometimes solved the issue. Compressor and a/c system was working fine, blend door would not shut off hot air from heater core. In this case, bad control head in dash - your results may vary)

As with any supplement - your results may vary...

 

My wife is trying CBD oil to deal with a chronic pain issue. Sorting out brands/strength/dosing can be challenging. Also, as with any "medication", there can be side effects (as she has found as her dose increased).

 

There is no "one size fits all" solution. It can be a trial and error situation and it can get expensive as you work through the various options. Of course this differs little from many doctors and prescription drugs as well (Oh, that doesn't work for you, go try this...).

Lock it up - found what I needed!

Looking for a Holley vacuum secondary carb with center hung float bowls - takes a dual inlet fuel line. One bowl w/accelerator pump / one without. Age/condition not too important. Really just buying it for the bowls to mod another carb. Found one for $30 - but an hour + drive each way. Just checking here first before I make the trip.

SOLD!

Lock it up please.

2000 Wells Cargo "Cycle Wagon". Torsion suspension, 7000 lb GVWR (2 x 3500 lb axles) Finished interior, Duo Therm roof air w/heat strip, 30a RV plug. 4 additional roof vents (some powered) winch w/battery, 120V outlets, Nice lighting, Etrack built into finished walls + additional tie down points. Diamond plate floors w/mounts for chocks. 4 Carlisle tires were new in 2015, plus a new spare. Bearings serviced last fall. Trailer once had an 18' awning (gone before I purchased it) but I do have a 16' I can include (unmounted) at asking price. This is a Michigan trailer and does have frame rust, I have included a photo of the worse area - no frame is not separated, there is an ID plate welded there. That said, we used this last fall to haul our Nissan Race truck, tools and spares to southern Michigan and back and it towed great. I have downsized to a smaller car/trailer package and this one is now available. I do have a Michigan title for the trailer if you need one - title shows a weight of 2910 lbs for trailer. Asking $4500

 

CL listing with pics:

https://columbus.craigslist.org/tro/d/2000-wells-cargo-cycle-wagon/6606932181.html

Sold - lock it up, forgot it was still up, sorry.

But the 2.0/2.3/2.5 all used the same block why not use the 2.5 for a little more punch?

For reference we ran a 2.3 in gt-3 back in the day. Still have the head for possible future projects

 

When I say "spec", they specify casting numbers.

It's a bit of a pain, but it does keep things (relatively) equal. So far, they don't even allow an overbore, you have to sleeve to stock bore in the class.

Spec motor for the class in vintage. The 2.0L SOHC was plentiful "back in the day" and is slowly being replaced with the Zetec in modern cars. Looking for a spare "core" for vintage.

 

The 1.6L was the same deal for another class, now being phased out by the 1.5L Honda Fit motor, but the original Ford is still the legal vintage motor.

Long shot for any old stuff laying around.

 

Looking for a good "core" motor. Would also be interested in the same vintage 1/6L 4 cyl.

 

If you've got anything...

Two items I did not see mentioned:

Bead Blast Cabinet (w/vacuum)

Parts Washer