Draco-REX

I have to agree that having the whole site locked down without a log-in is detrimental to growth. There are tons of sites that allow people to look, poke around, and read without a log-in. It lets people get a feel for the community, and hopefully, become enticed to join it. Then once they have a log-in and are approved, they can post and join in. First taste is free. There are two things about CR that I really like and keep me coming back: 1. Meets/Events. There are events and meets all the time where I can meet the other people here. I may not be into drag racing a whole lot, but C&C and the growing CR presence at AutoX events are great. Then there's also the nearly weekly meet ups for dinner on the weekends as well. VERY few forums have so many opportunities for the members to get together. 2. Diverse expertise. There is such a wide variety talents and resources in the membership here. If I need advice or hookup on something that isn't car related, I know there's a good chance I can find it on CR. Hell, I got a custom hand-made cornhole set here that's easily the best made set I've ever seen. These two items are what forums are all about; Community and Information. Facebook's community feels hollow and comes with a lot of stress. And Information? Facebook would be the LAST place I'd look for a how-to on anything. Perhaps Johnny Bravo is right and it's time to de-emphasize the "Racing" in CR. I'm not saying get rid of it, or shove it in a corner. Put the automotive forums up front proudly, as cars will always be at the core of this community. But maybe start to provide a larger platform for Columbus Residents (sucky name, I know). The Parking Lot forum is the most active forum here, perhaps it deserves to grow into it's own section.

http://jalopnik.com/callaways-corvette-c7-gt3-r-spec-racer-looks-downright-1735231828 :masturboy: :megusta:

This does continue to surprise me. I've driven cars with MUCH less torque that demanded a light touch on the throttle. Hell, the BRZ blows the rear off really easily. But I can be really heavy on the throttle with the V and all it does is squirm. I'd think it had less torque than it does, if it wasn't for the fact that it gets all that weight moving so quickly. Same. I always felt I had plenty of brake. And the times I had to ask for more braking force, it delivered amazingly. Despite the weight and squidgy suspension, I'm really seeing how this car pulled off a sub 8 minute 'Ring time. I was hoping... As for forums, I've been happier with CTSVOwners.com. CadillacForums.com lacks the specific focus. It'll be interesting in the snow. I need to start thinking about getting tires before the rush...

Got a chance to really flog the V last weekend. I was impressed with how well it did for a 4200lb car with cushy rubber suspension bushings. The front click is back though. Going to fix it myself this time when the snows go on.

Look like how it should be from the factory.

He had a long way to go and a short time to get there. So he's doing what you say can't be done.

LSA Exocet

Yeah, that's the route I'm going to take. But I'm going to wait a bit. There are a couple minor mods I was holding off until I had a dealership look at the car; nothing related to the issues, just LEDs and a shifter. I think I'll do them first and then pursue this further.

1. It should be covered. Half of the issues have TSBs. 2. Already covered above. 3. I expected two things. A. That my car NOT sound like a Cavalier with 100k miles on it. And B. Good service. Both are reasonably attainable. 4. I don't hate the car. I like it a lot, and it grows on me daily. I do hate the service I received at Capitol Cadillac. So no hunting yet.

Nope. Clickclickclickclickclick. Sounds like blown C/V joints. It's common with the V2. GM has tried multiple fixes, the only thing that works is cleaning the mounting surfaces of the rotor and wheel. But that only works for a year or so.

That sucks. I'm sorry. I won't put my opinions of that location in print. I'll say that I think we run a good ship at the Dublin location. I'm just a parts guy, but if I can help, let me know.

Sorry to hear that. I'm often amazed at what we cover under warranty. Out of curiosity, which TSB? And Entourage I assume?

15k miles. The problems are mostly annoyances. It's the clicks that bother me the most. At first I didn't care all the much about getting these fixed; I figured I had a warranty so why not? But after all this...

The click occurs at the very top of the pedal travel when I take my foot off the pedal. It's well above any switch engagement.

I'm sure. I just figured that a Cadillac dealership would be a cut above. Silly me. I know. I work for a dealership, so I know how warranty work goes. Granted they tend to trim the hours they pay, but parts are usually pretty profitable. At least in Hyundai's world. Saying "no problem found" results in $0 for everyone. Makes no sense other than Capitol Cadillac saying "We don't want you as a customer." Thanks. I'll give GM a call and see what comes of it.

I am completely unhappy with Capitol Cadillac's service. GM wants Cadillac to be a World-Class make, putting it up against BMW, Mercedes, and Audi. But Capitol Cadillac is not providing World-Class service to match. I set up an appointment with them to have some small annoyances taken care of. I dropped it off 7:30am last Thursday (9/24). I got a call after work and picked it up today after 5pm (9/29). This is what I brought it in for: 1. The front wheels click loudly when making tight turns. 2. The supercharger has a faint rattle. 3. The driver's seat shifts under braking/acceleration. 4. The backup camera is grainy. 5. The clutch pedal makes a loud click every time I shift. 6. The car feels unstable over bumps and smells like burning rubber after long trips. 1-5 can be diagnosed in less than an hour total, and 6 might take an hour on its own. Five full working days they had the car, and what did they do? They took care of #1 which consists of taking the front wheels off, cleaning them, and then re-torquing the lug nuts. That's it. Which would have been enough to piss me off, but it doesn't stop there. Let's go down the list: This literally can be diagnosed by turning the wheel and driving forward at walking speed. When they pulled it out of a parking spot it would have been audible. It sounds almost exactly like bad C/V joints, happens every time, and is easily audible with the windows down. There have been multiple TSBs out for this issue. I got a call THIS MORNING from the service writer saying they couldn't replicate the sound. I was shocked and even said so. I was then told that IF there was a sound, it was likely because of the wheel locks and that it'd be $90 to get a new set. I told the service writer that the original lugs were IN the car with the lug key. She then said that it wouldn't be covered. Really? I said I'd just do it myself. Yup, world-class service.... Note, I was never ASKED to come replicate the issues for the tech. I was the one that brought it up. Five days of finding nothing and they never asked me to show them. I went there on my lunch break and took the tech for a ride of only about 100 yards and replicated the sound several times. He then said "Well they do that." Apparently it is acceptable that a car that retails for nearly $80K to sound like a car with blown C/V joints. At least I got him to admit he heard the noise. So he then mentioned cleaning the rotors, which is the only way to clear up the clicking anyways. I can only imagine that my car would still be clicking if I hadn't made a tech admit he heard the noise to my face. This is a known issue with the superchargers on this car. In fact it is SO common that GM extended the warranty on the supercharger to 10 years / 120,000 mi. The issue is with a poorly designed coupler that is replaced with a solid one in the new part#. Now my supercharger isn't as bad as the videos online, but the rattle/knock is there. I wasn't really expecting much from this one, but thought I'd give it a shot. I have another 8 years and 100K miles for it to get a bit worse. What irked me about this one was the tech essentially said I was hearing nothing and that the ones they've done sound like they're falling apart. This one is just a "whatever". This is yet another TSB item. The TSB has spacers installed in the seat mounts. The real source of the issue is the rivets holding the pivots of the moving parts in the base. They loosen over time. My seat, you can just rock back and forth in it with the car stationary and you can clearly feel that it's not solid. Other dealerships have replaced the whole base. One person used a rivet expander to tighten the rivets. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt and guess that "NO ABNORMAL NOISE HEARD" is a generic resolution code. Otherwise, the tech didn't even bother reading the line, or somehow thinks listening to a seat makes it rock... I dunno.. Either way, no effort expended here trying to make me a happy customer. No TSB for this one, but there are threads about it on CTSVOwners.com. Fixes go from just re-seating the plug to replacing the camera. It's an intermittent problem so might be difficult to catch in the act. My camera was kinda grainy from when I picked it up, then one day after it rained it got really bad. I had trouble making out what was what in my garage when I was backing in. It got better the next day but was still worse than before the rainy day. At least this time the tech did more than listen to the camera. But they found no problems, and frankly, the camera is better now that it was. Perhaps they unplugged it. Where Capitol pissed me off here is that on Friday (9/25), I was told that the camera was being replaced. Instead, when I read the Repair Order when I picked the car up, I discover otherwise. This is a common issue. The cause is the return spring coming unseated and rubbing against a bracket. It's really annoying to hear a CLICK every time I shift. Not to mention embarrassing. When I was in the car with the tech, I reproduced the sound over and over for the tech. He said there were switches and that it was normal. $80K car, and it's normal for the clutch pedal to click with every shift? No car I've ever owned does this. But was really burns me here is the complete lack of effort here. It's obvious there's an issue of some sort. But instead of actually looking at the pedal (where an unseated spring would be pretty obvious), he would rather just GUESS and do nothing. Again, this is on the 5th working day after I replicated the issue, on my own initiative. Hitting bumps where a tire leaves the pavement briefly, the car will twitch. It feels just like other cars I've owned when the alignment was out. Also, after driving home from WI, the car smelled like I had been doing burnouts. So something is up. I'm glad they checked the suspension. Although, after the above, I question just how thorough the tech was. But how do you not put the car on an alignment rack?? Every bit of the complaint screams the alignment is out, yet he didn't bother to check the alignment. I wasn't going to pay for an alignment if they couldn't at least tell me what was off. Blaming the tires is lazy too. The rears are low, but they are still above the wear bars. And these aren't some cheap chinese tires that will squirm when they get low. These are Michelin Pilot Sports. If anything they should work better in the dry when the tread is at about 4/32nds. So Capitol Cadillac is not a dealership I will ever go to again, or ever recommend. Throughout this entire thing they have exerted the least amount of effort possible to take care of my issues, and it wasn't until I directly showed a tech the issues that anything was done. Even then, my complaints were ignored or trivialized. All around, utter laziness. Sorry, had to vent...

Legal is 50% on the front sides. I've had both the metallic and ceramic tints, both worked great, but I think the ceramic worked better at blocking heat. Whatever you do, do NOT let them talk you down into dyed film. Ugh. I let one shop talk me down to that (no idea why they did that) and I regretted it afterwards. Heat blocking was minimal at best, and the tint wasn't grey, but had color. The mid-grade stuff is ok, but I could see slight variances in the film thickness that weren't present when I got the good stuff. So get the best tint or nothing. If you have to wait a bit longer so you can afford the best stuff, then wait.

In the future, transmission swaps will be like engine swaps.... ..assuming the gas engine doesn't disappear shortly after.

How in the world are they justifying a slushbox in their sports sedan when they have an exceptional DCT on the shelf?

http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/24393655?searchId=861453737 Rolled CTS-V.

My first car was a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX (the weird one with the t-tops and removable hatch.) So was my second car. But I never was, nor am currently, a Nissan guy. I do, however, have an appreciation for cars that have descriptors like "small","simple", and "weird".

Stuff like this always boils down to safety concerns. I think they worry that a drone will strike a corner worker or distract another driver.

I'd love to have one... but drones aren't allowed at SCCA events.

It would be interesting to see a few in one place. It always seems like that when I get a new car, or even start researching one, I start seeing them everywhere. The V is the first time that I've seen almost none. I've seen a couple CTS sedans, one wagon, but no coupes, and none were Vs. I've never had this happen before. It's kinda cool and weird at the same time. (It was also a cool surprise to find out I have more HP stock than that R8...)

LULZ