Ry_Trapp01647545522

Nice, looks like your first buddy can handle this kind of work no problem. Do you know if he's glued in subframe connectors before? Those are my only real concern, but I'm probably just being paranoid(this chassis is straight and CLEAN underneath - don't want to screw it up lol). Might get ahold of him pretty soon.

Thanks guys, I'll see what Tinman has to say - definitely still open to suggestions. I guess we probably should've gotten this work in sooner than right before racing season lol

I'm helping my nephew build a 1980 Notch, and we're to the point that we need to get some welding work done - subframe connectors, axle tubes, axle brace, anti-roll bar(probably a Team Z piece), and external torque box reinforcements(interior plates already melted in). So I need some shop suggestions - the car lives in Johnstown and Newark, but it doesn't have to be local, I just want to get this done right the first time. Thanks guys!

I'm there! ...if my nephew and I can get this pile, AKA unc-neph project car, back together in time that is LOL

alright, so i'm using this stuff to prep the front and rear bumpers on my ford explorer for paint(AGAIN), it's a typical "rust converter" meaning it doesn't 'eat' the rust but rather turns the rust(iron oxide) into iron phosphate. after converting to iron phosphate, you're good to go, you can't paint right over it. but my problem is that they suggest using oil-based paints, as some epoxy and latex paints won't adhere. i'm looking to use some good ol' fashioned vatozone special primer-in-a-can though, such as rustoleum filler-primer(it's a rusted up '96 explorer - i'm not going for show quality here...). i've scoured the web for examples of what paints/primers/coatings that people have laid down over this stuff, but i can't find ANYTHING. so, long story short, has anyone used a phosphoric acid and had success laying down a duplicolor/rustoleum rattle can paint or primer over it?

i see a lot of "we need to be proactive" in here, but what happens if this turns out to be a massive tax leach that no one uses like amtrak? you can't just cancel it, there is no return for all the tax money put in, no, it'll just keep running, getting band-aids applied to it, and sucking up tax payer money year after year after year. the "if you build it, they will come" philosophy is short sighted and a great way to lose piles of cash by not truly understanding the market. i'm not saying this would crash and burn, but the possibility is very real and can't be discounted. this certainly isn't a black & white topic, there needs to be a LOT of research put into this to actually determine realistic feasibility. and, doing something that will increase taxes all in the name of "the greater good" is pure bullshit and does nothing but hurt those that have to pay.

cleetus, because i really don't care much about the rest of those. as a ford fanboy, the GT350 is cool, but it definitely won't be $70k, and i'd rather wait for them to pull the sheet off the GT350R that will be $70k. carbon fiber wheels, carbon-ceramics, less weight, and some other goods that we don't for sure know about yet(oh yea, and sport cups vs the super sports).

bill burr is definitely my favorite comedian, every single one of his specials delivers beginning to end!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlvvCYUDHrQ oh, fucking please, the bitch got every bit of what she was subconsciously asking for. straight SJW shit here.

i've never completely shaved, but these past few weeks are the first time that i've just let it go(trimming the sounds down some, fucking poofy ass hair). have never gotten so many compliments from chicks! shampoo and conditioner(american crew on both accounts) aren't cutting it though, any suggestions on [affordable] product to soften it up, make this shit less wiry?

pretty much. they throw around "next generation" and "innovative" while saying "yea, they're basically just like all the other low displacement turbocharged DI engines on the market..."

it seems like off-roading/diesel magazines usually have the best coupons for the torque wrenches, and a lot of coupons that the e-mail newsletter doesn't have.

yea, the HF torque wrenches are definitely surprisingly good pieces. i used the 3/8"($9 after coupon - SUCK IT, SNAP-ON!!!) when i rebuilt the top end of my motorcycle and it worked flawlessly.

finally, another update! my brother came over from indiana last weekend and we tore down the top end of the engine to replace a problematic head gasket and throw some other new seals and gaskets in there. i got a couple pics of the tear down/reassembly of the top end, i was a bit preoccupied with working on the junk(LOL) so this isn't a legit step-by-step photo flood like most build threads, more of a sporadic "look at this, look at that!"... http://upurs.us/image/51626.jpeg ...got the head off and i remembered to start taking pics, lol http://upurs.us/image/51627.jpeg ...yea - it's got a hemi! http://upurs.us/image/51628.jpeg ...no cam bearings??? crazy ass japanese! (unless this is common in the motorcycle world...) http://upurs.us/image/51630.jpeg ...the cam is back in! tough to see in the lighting(visible in the first pic though), but the cam sprocket has very specific cutouts in its center, and when removing or installing the cam you gotta keep rotating it and lining up the cam lobes with the cutouts to snake it in there - real pain in the ass! http://upurs.us/image/51629.jpeg ...oh, nothing like a little minor surgery to some high precision carburetor parts, with the dynojet-supplied drill bit i did final reassembly today - reinstalling the carbs, hooking up all the lines, installing new plug wires, reinstalling the exhaust(PAIN IN THE ASS), tank, battery box, etc. it took a little playing with, but i got it fired up too. good news is that we didn't fuck up the cam timing LOL, and it doesn't seem to be running too bad though i didn't warm it up and really mess with it yet. got a new problem though... http://upurs.us/image/51631.jpeg ...the rag between the tank and carbs? yea, the fuckin petcock is leaking like a sieve! time to rebuild(or replace if i can find one for a reasonable price - it sucks owning something "different") ONE MORE part, and then it should be in good enough shape to get back on the pavement.

i say keep it old school - old pickup, tucking fat slicks out back, powered by a juice fed big block. doesn't get much cooler than that!

racing on that stretch of 16?! fucking retarded. "Going that fast, he easily could have killed somebody," said Newark Police Sergeant Paul Davis. to be fair, sgt paul davis, he could've easily killed somebody at 35MPH too... shit son, i hit 115MPH in my 85HP geo tracker some years back:fuckyeah: not joking a bit, 85HP and probably the worst drag coefficient this side of a fucking mack track, that POS actually got up to that speed! i had lots of stupids back then...:dumb:

awful, it's just plain awful. it looks cheap, gaudy, almost as if it was designed solely for the gold chain wearing retirement crowd. it's just a terrible design, it doesn't flow, it's basically the culmination of every cliche sports car design element. it's so cliche that i can't believe it doesn't come with "lambo doors"! the C4 was the epitome of 1980s GM, just god awful bland like the rest of their entire lineup. the C5 was absolutely gorgeous, a very original, sexy, and purely american design. the C6 is basically a generic sports car. i can't think of any other word to describe it than "generic". it's not ugly, it's not beautiful, it's certainly not polarizing(if anyone hated it, it was because it was so plain, not because it's ugly!), it's just a generic stereotypical sports car design. but the C7 has taken that a step further by throwing every sports car cliche onto that generic profile. tl;dr - i don't like it as far as upgrading these direct injected engines is concerned, it's blows my mind that so many people don't realize that the diesel guys have already laid the groundwork for getting power out of direct injected engines. the problem isn't direct injection, the problem is that companies need to develop injectors and injector pump upgrades for these engines. besides, i wasn't around/old enough for those days, but didn't everyone say that smog equipment, EFI, and OBDII all were going to kill performance for the gear head? last i checked, you can go down to your local ford dealer and buy a shelby GT500 with 662HP for right under $50k, and then you can put nearly 700HP down at the tires with a bit over $1000 on top of that - sounds like the golden age of performance to me, and i don't see direct injection slowing that down!

i've been thinking a little about paint schemes and have been trying to think of something unique, seeing as how most cafe-esque bikes have pretty cliche paint schemes. of course the lotus colors have been used pretty often, the classic gulf scheme is played out, but what do you guys think of this? http://stwot.motortrend.com/files/2012/04/ex-GTC-Gulf-Team-Davidoff-1997-McLaren-F1-GTR-Longtail-FIA-GT-Endurance-Racing-Coupe-left-front-1-1024x640.jpg just crazy enough to be cool, or is it a little too out there? it's certainly not for everyone, but i don't want this bike to look ridiculous either. i'm definitely not settled on this, just an idea though. any suggestions? thanks! i got ahold of my brother, he said he'll be over here on the 17th to help me tear the engine down. tomorrow i'll probably rebuild/re-jet the carbs and order a brake light and turn signals so i can get to hacking that ugly ass rear fender off.

yea, the tank isn't my biggest concern at all, but if i can find something different that won't take much work to fit then i'll go for it. if not, i'll just go with another stocker(the ugly motorbikes 650 in the first post looks great with it after all!). i would like to throw a '79 tank on it(like the ralph miller 650 in the first post), the frames are similar but i'm not sure if the tank mounts changed or not. i'll definitely take you up on that, i need a good excuse to hit up C&C! would definitely be cool to have both bikes there!

thanks man! yep, that rear fender is getting hacked off ASAP! i'd like to get a different style tank but i'm not sure if there are any from other honda models that mount up with little modifying. if all else fails, i'll throw another stocker on it(since the one on there is beat to shit), even if it is a bit too cruiser looking.

now, admire your work... http://upurs.us/image/50432.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50433.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50434.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50435.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50436.jpeg i gotta say, i may not be mexican, but i'm pretty damn happy with my work, LOL. i can't wait to get this thing fixed up and reassembled, it's going to look WAY better with this seat on it! http://upurs.us/image/50437.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50438.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50439.jpeg ...now i just gotta cut that ****ing rear fender off, LMAO. and, finally, a parts update... http://upurs.us/image/50440.jpeg i got a top end gasket kit(back), 4 carb kits(back right), dynojet stage 1/stage 3 jet kit(left), K&N pod filters(center), plug wires(right), and my new handlebars. HOPEFULLY, i'll have this thing up and running in a few weeks! ride it till it's too cold to ride any more, then blow it all back apart, strip it down, and paint it up!

it's now time to throw the seat foam on your seat pan.... http://upurs.us/image/50419.jpeg ...i went ahead and slathered the seat pan in spray adhesive so that i wouldn't have to worry about the seat foam moving around on me as i flipped the entire piece every which when while stretching the seat cover on. next, we position the vinyl seat cover over the foam... http://upurs.us/image/50420.jpeg and now we begin the arduous task of attaching the seat cover to the seat pan. get a firm grab on the edge of the vinyl and pull it around so that you have a solid amount to staple to the seat pan... http://upurs.us/image/50421.jpeg BTW, i tried using an electric stapler but it wasn't powerful enough to penetrate the hard, thick plastic of the pan. also, use 1/4" or 5/16"(what i used) staples, as 1/2" staples may go all the way through parts of the seat pan and poke you in the ass! work your way stapling around the seat, doing 2-4 staples at a time before switching to the opposite side and placing 2-4 over there. it sounds simple enough, but, if you haven't done this type of work before, there will be a LOT of stretching, you will be removing and restapling sections multiple times, etc. it is very doable for anyone though, you just gotta have a modicum of patience. and remember, pull perpendicular to wrinkles to smooth them out. this is the very front of the seat, where it meets the tank. you would think it would be a tricky spot, but it's actually very easy... http://upurs.us/image/50422.jpeg ...grab some vinyl, pull it tight, and hold it in place... http://upurs.us/image/50423.jpeg ...then, throw a staple at it... http://upurs.us/image/50424.jpeg ...and move on to the next spot... http://upurs.us/image/50425.jpeg you'll likely encounter a few ares where material will want to bunch up, and this can seem like a major problem... http://upurs.us/image/50426.jpeg ...but all you gotta do is grab the material and, again, just stretch the shit out of it... http://upurs.us/image/50427.jpeg a few hours later, and you'll find that your vinyl is all stretched out and your seat pan is completely covered in staples... http://upurs.us/image/50428.jpeg don't be shy with the amount of staples you use. remember that your fat ass will be moving around on this and the vinyl will constantly try to pull away from the pan. more staples = more security http://upurs.us/image/50430.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50431.jpeg

update! everyone can see the major issue above with the seat - it looks like shit, both design and condition! so i set out to resolve that issue. while looking for tanks on ebay(since the one i have is all dented up), i stumbled onto a company in vietnam that sells both foam & seat cover kits as well as entire seats. - they have both an ebay store... eBay My World - hondaclassic31 - as well as a dedicated US based website... Cafe Racer Seat | Custom Motorcycle Seats | Custom Cafe Racers - their ebay store seems to have lower prices than their website they *shockingly*(seeing as how their's no aftermarket for this turd) have a number of offerings for the CB650, so, needless to say, i was sold immediately and spent the next few hours pouring over the different designs they had. eventually i decided on THIS foam & seat cover kit because of it's nice, classic shape and smooth, clean design(though i did consider THIS, without the red stripe). IMO, a seat should blend in with the styling of the bike, not be the center of attention(be it good or bad). you'll note that the pictured seat has a straight base, so i knew it wouldn't end up exactly as pictured due to the shape of the stock 650 seat pan(see OP). before i jump into the details of the install, i'll address the cost. IMO, these kits(and complete seats i'm sure) are just a bit overpriced, but i was willing to overlook that for the sake of convenience. and also because i got it $30 cheaper during an ebay sale they were having:lol1: also, shipping is flat rate $40 - expensive, but this thing comes in a BIG ASS box all the way from vietnam, so there isn't really much they can do about that. having said that, i don't regret the purchase a single bit, and would do it again even at full price! alright, now for the install. i had a few more pics but i decided to use this great program called 'wondershare mobilego' to import contacts and files from my old phone, but the ****ing piece of shit decided to overwrite everything on my new(used) HTC rezound and delete the backup file on the computer*RAGE* but i digress... so, as mentioned above, there are 2 reasons i'm replacing the stock seat. A) it's ugly as ****... http://upurs.us/image/50405.jpeg and 2: it's pretty worn out... http://upurs.us/image/50407.jpeg http://upurs.us/image/50406.jpeg and so the process began. since we're installing new foam and a new cover on the old seat pan, we gotta remove the old garbage from it of course. as seen below, the seat cover is merely held on by staples... http://upurs.us/image/50408.jpeg but first we gotta get this seat mount bracket out of the way... http://upurs.us/image/50409.jpeg now onto those staples. a good pick set does wonders here, as well as a mallet(to tap the pick under the tighter staples) and needle nose pliers... http://upurs.us/image/50410.jpeg once you've pulled all of the staples loose, you can pull the seat cover off... [insert pic that was deleted by shitty software] if you're a jackass like my self and buy a 30+ year old bike in ohio, then hopefully you recently got a tetanus shot! now you'll need to go back and yank out all of the rusty asshole staples that didn't come out the first time... http://upurs.us/image/50411.jpeg now you can pull the foam off of the seat pan... http://upurs.us/image/50412.jpeg we can get a good look at the differences in profile with both seat foams in hand. the new foam drops the seating position a little, which is a bonus for me... http://upurs.us/image/50413.jpeg and the tail section looks much MUCH better. probably not quite as comfortable to sit on, but, hey, i won't be riding there... http://upurs.us/image/50414.jpeg overall, just a much better, cleaner, and leaner looking profile... http://upurs.us/image/50415.jpeg one thing worth noting is that the stock foam is MUCH softer... http://upurs.us/image/50418.jpeg ...than the foam that comes in the kit... http://upurs.us/image/50417.jpeg ...you can request a softer foam when you order either a kit or seat, and, though i don't foresee any comfort issues whatsoever with this seat, i would still suggest ordering the softer foam. and a shot of the two seat covers side by side... http://upurs.us/image/50416.jpeg

i wish the FIA would just quit being douches already and return to indianapolis. not that i care too much about it anyways, as the racing just plain sucks compared to the sports car/GT racing and the indy racing we have today, but if they're running any track in the US then it should be the brickyard. i would love to see those cars carve up the corkscrew at laguna though, that would be badass!

yea, i've never been able to wrap my head around that shit either, LOL so what kind of off-roading can you do with this? the center of gravity is too high for doing anything other than going through a mud pit. it maintains the factory geometry, so you aren't going to be jumping this thing when it has all of 10" of front suspension travel - maybe. obviously you won't be rock crawling a truck that ridiculously big - especially when you pretty much still have stock ground clearance at the front diff and those ridiculous torsion bar drop brackets. i'd be shocked if you gained more than 2"-3" of ground clearance over factory if you measure from the front diff or the torsion bars. sorry, i just can't figure out what this track can do after this lift that it couldn't do before it. water crossings and mudpits? i doubt it with those expensive ass 20" wheels... i'm not questioning the work, and if the owner is happy then great! but that is mall crawler by the definition.