williaty

There's a large and growing disconnect between what the average Democratic voter wants and what the party leadership, as bought and paid for by commercial interests, wants. In her town hall speech on 10/16/2015: Later on the same night: Note that those "buybacks" weren't optional. Confiscation is still confiscation if you're forcing the person to choose between selling and prison. Finally, in reference to a followup about confiscation:

Clinton has made several speeches now where she's stated outright that she supports British- or Australian-style gun control and both countries had involuntary confiscation. So long as she faces a Republican-dominated congress, I agree. If, however, the election throws in a Democratic majority, all bets are off.

Sadly, some of the Dem part leadership have openly supported confiscation in the last few months. I'm a (very) liberal gun owner and, yes, that makes voting hard. The GOP's social and economic policies are abhorent. Some of the Dems want to confiscate guns. It means I have to vote over time to try to have the least total harm done by the politicians. When social and economic issues are really heading into the crapper, I vote for a liberal. When it looks like the anti-gunners are gaining some ground, I'll vote for a pro-gunner in a few places. There's going to have to be a shift both in the pro-gun and liberal communities as more and more liberals become gun owners. The NRA-ILN is going to have to realize that they need to get retards like Nugent out of the spotlight and stop demonizing all Democrats or they're going to find themselves obsolete as the country moves to the left. The liberal leadership is going to have to realize that they need to quit demonizing guns and gun owners as more and more liberals become gun owners. It truly boggles my mind that gun rights aren't aligned as a liberal value. The 2nd Amendment defends the 1st, 4th, 5th, and every other thing to do with civil rights. If you're pro free speech, pro religious freedom, pro individual privacy, pro civil rights, pro gay rights, etc, you should also be pro gun rights because, in extremis, the gun rights are how you defend your other rights.

The price for a Domino gets even worse when you realize it requires a high-end dust collector like one of the Festool CT-vacs or the Fein equivalent. When I first started buying into the Festool system, I was really dubious about their vacs. How could a damned vacuum cleaner possibly justify that price?!?! I have to laugh at myself now because, of all the Festool stuff I've bought, that vac is the best (and it's all been VERY good). You just won't believe how much difference it makes to have a vac that's so quiet you can talk over it in a normal voice, so efficient of a filter that most smells don't even come out, and yet so powerful it'll eat a screwdriver if you mistakenly let it get too close to the hose. For the first month, I was constantly fishing tools out of it that it had sucked up from a distance I was sure was impossible. Now, after having it and the tools to go with it, I'm so used to woodworking being basically clean that I'm absolutely appalled when I have to use a tool with even average dust collection. The sander, for instance, actually cleans up the workpiece rather than makes it dusty because the vac and the dust collection are so good. Festool is something I wouldn't suggest buying just one tool of. The real advantage to the system comes from the fact that it's a system. You buy the tracksaw and get a rail. Then you run the jigsaw and router on the rail too. You buy the MFT to use under the rail and suddenly you have perfect square corners and angles on everything. It all works together in a way that allows you to get a lot of extremely precise work done in a small space with a lot of versatility. If you think you'll only ever want just a router, just a jigsaw, or whatever, it's probably better value to look elsewhere.

Yeah the Domino creates a loose (or floating) mortise and tennon joint. It's VERY strong and stable if sized correctly. The Domino works on small projects up to medium-small furniture. The Domino XL works on medium-small furniture up to giant things like barn doors. The answer, as with so many things, is "it depends". If you're gluing long grain to long grain, a properly prepped and clamped joint using PVA glue (normal Titebond, etc) is unbelievably strong, much stronger than the wood itself. However, gluing endgrain to anything else is really, really weak. Miters sort of split the difference in strength since they're only kinda endgrain. The purpose of 90% of the joinery we do is to find a way around the weakness of gluing endgrain to something. Pocket holes are very often used for things like drawer boxes, face frames, and other butt joints. In those kinds of joints, you'd be trying to glue long grain to end grain, which doesn't work very well. Pocket holes just run a screw through the problem, but that's not a great solution for a number of reasons. Traditionally, a mortise and tennon was used (or a half-lap if you can allow endgrain to show) because this "converts" the joint so you're gluing long grain to long grain again. A pocket hole joint will be much stronger than a glued butt joint but much weaker than a properly designed mortise and tennon or half-lap joint. What the pocket hole unarguably is is faster and requires waaaaaay less skill. PH's tend to be applied as a one-fix-wonder to every woodworking problem. 90% of the time, they're a bad solution because they're not strong enough, not stiff enough, and don't locate the members precisely enough. They tend to be useful when they're just holding something together (like a cabinet faceframe) long enough for you to stick it to the thing that's actually providing the strength, rigidity, and structure. Of course, once you have something like a Domino, you can put joints together as fast as you can a pocket hole, for less money per joint, with greater strength, and greater accuracy.

Wood Werks focuses a lot more on production woodworking while Woodcraft focuses more on hobby woodworking. Dovetail jigs are too slow for production woodworking. The Festool Domino, doweling jigs, and pocket screws (VERY INFERIOR) have really taken over for production work. If you want a better dovetailing jig, the only one I'd consider is the Leigh D4R Pro since it allows you to custom-design the exact layout of the pins/tails to your current project. It really makes them look as good as hand-cut, unlike the cheaper jigs that have a fixed spacing. That being said, I'm not a fan of the dovetail look, so I do everything with the Domino. Faster, easier, and produces VERY strong, very precise joints.

No, Delta isn't what they used to be. Sometimes the tools are ok, sometimes the tools are crap. Problem is that sometimes they have repair parts and other times you can wait over a year for a repair part, if you ever get it at all. Current-production Delta is not something I'd consider. If I were you, I'd take a serious look at the SawStop contractor's saw (based on the price range you're looking at). People online always argue about whether the safety system is a good thing or a bad thing and somehow totally forget to mention that the saws themselves are actually really damned good saws. My SawStop PCS has the nicest movements and adjustments on any saw I've ever felt up to about 4x the price. It runs smoothly, is easy to adjust, and every time I've picked up the phone, I've reached someone with an accent I could easily understand. You can check them out at both Wood Werks Supply on the East side and Woodcraft in the center-west. The other thing I did that I REAAAAAALY love with the table saw is to pony up the cash to buy the Incra TS-LS fence system. I LOVE it. I can just set the fence to the exact measurement I want, no trying to tap it this way or that to get it just so, and I can come back 6 months later and cut a second piece EXACTLY the same size as the existing piece so precisely that you can't feel a difference if you stack them and run your fingers over the edges. There's really no other fence on the market that allows that.

I can get the title in my name no problem. What I CAN'T do is tow it anywhere. I have NO way to move it once it can't drive under its own power.

I thought they only took relatively complete cars. This will have basically nothing except an interior in it by the time I'm done with it. Will they take that?

Sorry I didn't touch back on this sooner. For some reason, all my alert emails from CR were going straight to my spam folder. I have no way to get it to a scrap yard or I'd just do that and take the $40. Someone is going to have to come here to get it because, once the wheels are out from under it, it's stuck as far as I can help. I'm familiar with the chaos of posting scrap to CL. Is there any sort of a professional that would come pick it up? Years ago, I got rid of a rolling chassis that wasn't worth fixing by doing that. Dude showed up with a rollback, took the title, handed me $200, and took the car away. Unfortunately, I can't remember who I had do that nor even what I looked under in the yellow pages to make it happen.

One of my friends had her car totaled. I'm considering buying it back on a salvage title because the cost to buy it back is much less than the value of the parts on it. My concern is how to dispose of the unibody once the parts have been stripped off. It won't have any of the powertrain or any of the suspension on it. Without it being able to be rolled around, I have no idea how to get rid of it. Does anyone have experience with this?

Well, I broke down and started buying the tools to repair it. Putting gauges on it showed zero static pressure, so that's why it's not kicking on. I got the UV light source, goggles, and dye with the intent to re-charge it with dye and see where it came out. Unfortunately, my whole damned engine is already COVERED in some sort of splattered mess that's invisible under white light but fluoresces bright green under UV light. Not sure if the dye is going to be useful with that mess already there. Some googling showed that the o-rings between the hardlines and the AC compressor are a major problem on the EJ-series engines, so I'm going to replace those tomorrow, pull a vacuum, and see if it'll hold it. If I can get an hour without the gauge needles showing a change in vacuum, I'll go ahead and re-charge it and see what happens. I've spent the last two days pulling all the ducting out of the car to remove the mouse nest and its remnants. Needless to say, I am unamused at this point.

Spring of 2014 it just didn't turn on. Button works, light turns on, ECU shows it thinks the AC should be on. Compressor never even twitches towards starting. Can't hear the clutch click on, though the engine is noisy enough that possibly could be missed. So it's either an electrical problem to the clutch switch or some of the "don't blow up the AC" safety switches are keeping the system from starting. Plus whatever's gone wrong from a year of not starting.

AC is one of the few things I never tooled up to do given the very, very high cost of the tools to do it to the obsessive level I require. Does anyone know of an automotive AC specialty shop around Columbus, preferably clear on the east side or just outside (Reynoldsburg area is where I live) that does work to a very perfectionist standard? Thanks!

When we moved, I called DelCo. Lady on the phone did click at the computer some (I could hear it), updated mine in about 20 seconds and actually let me do my wife's too, which must have somehow been linked to mine because it only took about 10 seconds to do hers. I was at first very pleasantly surprised how easy it was (compared to, say, dealing with the BMV) but then later I realized it was actually pretty scary how easy it was for me to change the info on such a potentially critical government document.

I've got a cast iron part about 18"x12"x4" that's hollow on the inside with some complex chambers cast into it that has gotten packed full of grease over the last 70 years. There's no opening large enough for me to stick my hand into and start scraping crap out. I need some kind of professional shop that can dunk this thing and dissolve the grease, then rinse it clean. I'd prefer the shop to be in the Pataskala-Reynoldsburg-Pickerington area, but anywhere on the east side of Columbus or out to Newark is good enough. Any suggestions? If you don't know of a specific shop, do you know of a cleaning process that'd work well for this so I can start googling?

The largest piece would be the foot casting which is about 18"x28"x4"

I just had to move my whole shop over the last year (new house, new shop). I priced out how much it would be to get the stuff moved and ended up buying a trailer instead. We bought a 5x8 oak floor trailer with mesh tail gate. It was supposed to be ~$975 at The Andersons but we worked a sale, a coupon, and a store credit card to get it down to about $750 at 18 months same as cash. We laid about a 5" wide 30" long strip of aluminum diamond plate over the edge of the tail gate to the ground to smooth out the transition from the ground to the gate and my wife and I were able to push all my boxes and tools up onto the trailer by ourselves, including a tool box the size of the one you're needing to move. Sure, it's a lot more than paying a tow truck to move it a single time. However, now I've got a trailer for a lifetime of toolbox moves and I have a hard time believing the crazy shit we've put on that trailer since we bought it. Once you have a nice trailer, you're going to find a lot of things you never thought about using one for that it just makes a hell of a lot easier. Plus, the looks we get towing a trailer bigger than the car (Subaru Impreza station wagon) with a load taller than the car are just hilarious. BTW, if you're going to buy a trailer, be sure to check out The Andersons. They seem to consistently be $300+ cheaper than Lowes, Home Depot, and Tractor Supply for the same trailer.

I'm restoring two 1940s Atlas drill presses and will shortly need to paint them. It will be too late in the year (read: cold and wet) for me to shoot them myself by the time I have them fully torn down and sandblasted. I don't really want to wait for late spring to get them back together again. So I'm looking for a shop that will shoot the pieces a single, solid color with a 2-part clear on top (for solvent and oil resistance) without charging a fortune (and without screwing it up). I don't need Pebble Beach level of paint perfection and I don't need any custom hand painting done. Just good, solid workmanship for a reasonable price. I live out near Etna, so something on the east half of Columbus or even as far east as Newark or south as Lancaster would be fine. Something in the Pataskala-Reynoldsburg-Pickerington axis would be ideal. Any good experiences with a shop that could do this for me? Thanks.

I'm sorry for your loss, Bill. That really sucks.

New 1099 rules don't start until Jan 1, 2012, so we've got a year. I hope the small business lobby does manage to get them struck down as it'll be HELL for small business owners. I was pointed to this thread because I've got a hobby becoming a business right now myself. I have no idea wither to stay a sole proprietorship with a dba, start an LLC, etc. There's a baffling array of options.

I've taken the adult-ed welding class at Delaware County CC and enjoyed it. I'm looking to do this 60% as a hobby 40% as a skill to market. There's a lot of things I'd like to make and I love working with metal. People also come around asking for me to make them some custom parts and I'd like to be able to do that.

I've taken an interest in metalworking and would like to go through some formal training in all aspects of metalworking. Specifically, I'd very much like to lean to use a mill by hand as well as CNC and the same with the lathe. The problem is that this seems to not be a fit trade for an American anymore, so no one teaches it. Every voc-tech, adult education, whatever type school I've called has told me they've shut down everything except their auto repair and IT programs. Does anyone know of any place in Delaware or Franklin (or even something close) counties?

As a bit of anecdotal evidence, the last place I worked had a race team. When pulling the car cross-country, the 4Runner+trailer+race car had logos all over it. The team was pulled over as a commercial vehicle and hassled for not having USDOT medical cards and CDLs because the vehicles were being used for advertising. Ohio's laws might not be the only ones you need to be concerned with.

If you really want an aerosol type dealie, you can get a Preval sprayer at NAPA, have them mix real paint for it, and go to town. Still comes out cheaper than buying it online in spray cans but the spray pattern isn't any better. On the plus side, you're saving money and getting better paint.