CRAWDAD

Im watching live now. thanks for the link waggs

Video????

Made me Laugh

http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx299/vnmous1gt500/truck.jpg

Thanks, I need to win again on Oct 9th for the points!

yes they are still using the .500 timing system. There is nothing differant as a racer, just what the time slip says.

Holy smokes. Great accomplishments Ray!!!!

Probably setup like wife swapping! endzone for endzone, or like dirt tracking for dirt tracking. Blow Job for Blow Job. Not really sure on how the wife swapping thing works, Im just sayin

Very nice Photos. Looks great on a side note. This is one of my Favorite cars on here.

where you going this weekend? Norwalk?

I think I found the one I am going to get. I will be legal up to 10.00 It will be winter project

When somebody says, "there's nothing to drag racing" Just show them this thread. I have been drag racing 11yrs and have been racing with some really good drag racers, I usually go rounds. It is kind of hard to explain drag racing to somebody that has never been around it. I can tell them but they just look at me with a plan look on there face

I am a member of the mid ohio ford club and we run a point series and rent out the track to do so. We rent out Pacemakers 6 times a year and we also race at the ford event at norwalk for points too. 2 weeks ago I was at pacemakers and they told me I needed a cage in my car, but I could continue to race just couldn't go faster than 7.50. I diaed in at 7.59 and made it to the semi-finals. So this saturday I decided to not bring the GT500 but insted just race my F-150. I didn't want to come back and be like "Hi, I'm the guy with th Illegal car. Can I still race?" I just brought the truck. Plus I was curious what it would run. First three time trials varied from 10.56-10.71 spinning out of the hole. Next couple runs I put it in 4x4 and it was running 10.54 consistantly and not spinning. Next thing you know I am in the finals against the guy who beat me 2 weeks prior in the semi's (note: he won the last 3 races). I was dialed 10.54 to his 6.50. I got a 4sec head start. I busted his ASS with a Perfect reaction time .5009 to his .567 r/t. I was ahead of him goig through the traps so I gently touched the brakes to keep from breaking out. I went 10.58@65mph on a 10.54 dial. He broke out trying catch me. He went 10.49@105mph on a 10.50 dial. We have one more race on Oct 9th. I texted him on saturday night and askd him if he wanted a shot at the title at the next race. he said, "Bitch I still own the title, Im just letting you borrow it!" Lmao Free for me to race and Won $100

I was looking for more information on how to analyze my time slips and came across this information contained on http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/analizingtimeslip.html and thought it would be helpful to others to post it up. Enjoy. Analyzing your time slip Are you getting the most benefit out of the drag strip time cards? If your track uses state of the art timing equipment like the "Compulink System", you are provided plenty of data. But how can you use this data? Most race tracks provide you with an elapsed time, trap speed and reaction time. But in 1988, most tracks started using multiple timers that provide 60 foot, 1/16 mile (330 ft.), 1/8 mile (660 ft.) and 1000-foot times also. The newer systems measure the trap speed differently from the old (pre-1988) systems. In the old (NHRA) system, a light beam was placed 60 feet in front of the finish line and 60 feet after the finish line. The computer would calculate your average speed through this 120 foot region. To get a true trap speed, you had to stay on the throttle until you cleared the last light. Today, the trap speed is measured with two light beams only 60 feet apart. A light beam is placed 60 feet in front of the finish line and the finish line is the last beam. Use the 60 foot, 660 foot and 1/4 mile elapsed times for evaluating each run. The 60-foot time is dependent upon traction, gearing, launch rpm and staging depth. It varies little with day-to-day horsepower changes. The 60-foot times can vary by .02 sec. during the evening and up to .15 sec. between a hot track and a cool track (with a leaf spring suspension and 10" tire) or as little as .03 all day on a car with 4-link and 14" tires). The 1-2 shift occurs beyond the 60-foot mark and 2-3 shift occurs before the 660 foot (1/8 mile) point. If you subtract the 60-foot time from the 660-foot time, you will see how well your car is pulling through the gears. I call this the "1st-2nd" figure. The difference between 60-foot & 1/8 mile will be good indication of the proper shift points and whether you are operating in the proper torque range. This value with vary with amount of horsepower production, shifts or weather (headwind, barometer). http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/analizepic.gif The 3rd gear pulls through the remaining 1/8 mile. Take the 1/4 mile elapsed time and subtract the 660 foot time. I call this calculation the "3rd" figure. This is a long pull showing brute horsepower which encounters variables like wind, density altitude (temperature, humidity and barometer) and aerodynamic drag. Changes in jetting, valve lash, ignition timing, etc. show up on this calculation. The difference between the 1/4 mile ET and the 1/8 mile (660-foot) ET will vary greatly with a head or tailwind. Take calculations of this figure during time trials and compare to past races where there was no wind to figure out how much effect (in ET) the wind has on your car. Then if the wind dies down for first run, you'll know how much to lower your dialin, while everyone else breaks out. Breaking these figures down into 60-foot, 1st-2nd, & 3rd encourages more research and development. Let's suppose you've increased the shift points by 200 rpm and you notice the ET dropped .05 sec. You think you're on the right track until you notice the 60-foot time went from 1.69 to 1.64 sec. Unfortunately, the .05 sec. was not the result of a changed shift point. It was due to a sudden "gain" in traction! The shift point had no effect! The 60-foot time is related to the tire's temperature and pressure. Cold tires which have not been run in a while need a lower pressure because the relative increase in pressure during burnout is greater with cold tires. After enough smoke is off rear tires in water box and line lock is released, you have two choices for proceeding: (1) spin out of the water and continue up to the line or (2) Stop the car, roll forward and due two extra burnouts as approaching the line. Tire manufacturers frown on the extra burnouts. They say that the first launch will be the best after the waterbox. The remaining part of the run after 60-foot time will closely follow the Density Altitude (D/A). The D/A makes only a fraction of a difference in the first 60-feet. Keep track of D/A for each run. With a common 60-foot time calculated for each, you should be able to predict your next run. The most difficult time to pick a dial-in is during sundown because everything is changing. Keeping records from week to week will help iron this out. Here are some of the variables. When the sun is going down, traction increases, due to the lack of direct sun rays, which reduces the 60-foot time. Watch for the winds dying down at sundown. Lack of a strong headwind can make a doorslammer go .10 sec. faster! Your reaction to the Christmas tree is different when in bright sun compared to a black background at night The temperatures may fall 10 degrees F creating a lower density altitude and more horsepower The cooler temperatures cause slicks to deflate by up to 1.5 psi. A long delay before first round may allow the carburetor to cool which can change the response time of full throttle. There are many variables involved in racing a car. When you are testing at the dragstrip, be on the lookout for anything causing a reduction of horsepower. You may need to optimize something else first. This is in response to changes made with jetting, timing, valve lash, staging depth, tire pressure, ladder bar adjustments, etc. If you experience several weeks of losing first round, you must review what you have been doing wrong. Not enough concentration on third yellow bulb. Need more attention to opponent's dialin and his expected speed capability. This is so you can figure out what to do, in case you are not in the lead at the end of the track. Concentrate on expected 60-foot time. Compare with traction in similar round last week Look at direct sunshine. A track which does not have direct sunshine will be stickier than one with sunny weather. Concentrate on the density altitude and what times are expected in similar weather for proper dialin.

I am racing that morning up in mount vernon. I might stop by on my way back home. I won't be bring the car though Prolly be in my focus or f150

you ask for it. part 2 if you ain't seen it yet

I would have bought a new 2010 Flex a couple months ago until I read this. So instead I bought a new F-150xlt Lariat 4x4 supercab which has a towing capacity of 8300-11300 depending on which rearend gear you have. If the Flex was able to pull 8k-10k I would have bought it.

lol, I know right. Plus she doesn't go to the track that often

Thats what I was going to say! Then resell it for more profit

Great Photos Do you remember what this run? http://waggz.smugmug.com/Other/Drag-Week-2010/IMG7145/1013402268_mBSPu-M.jpg

nope

My Wife http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc84/croz98gt/my%20toys/067.jpg

56k aint 55k but you know!!!!!! Oh yeah and that is a 09, not really new in my book. and this was quoted off the same listing

I challenge you to post a link of a new c6z for 55k (mid 50's) or less. 500miles or less Lettuce see it!!!!!! I'll go and buy one

kirk, I'm just messing you! day to day driving the Z06 is the way to go, HANDS DOWN! The Z06 is a better car, and should be for 40k more!