russian rocket

thank you, i appreciate it.

fortunately this is a non afm engine. read a couple more things about oil pick up tube o rings going bad, i guess ill find out when i drop the pan.

alright guys, an update to my update. so prior to the noise showing up today, i had my wife hold the rpms at 2500 for a couple minutes so that i can try to track down a squeaking noise that only happens off idle, the knocking started after a couple minutes of idling at 2500. so i let the car cool off about 20 minutes or so and went out and started it again, noise was there immediately. so i shut it off and added a quart of oil, mind you it was 1/3rd above the fill line already. so i started it up and the noise started to subside and completely went away. the oil pressure has always been good and has not shown any signs of going down. so i went ahead and held the rpms steady at 2500 for a couple minutes, the noise finally reappeared. i let off the throttle and let it idle for a couple minutes as i walked around the car, the noise started to subside again and finally completely went away. sooo, i wouldnt think the oil pump relief valve would be giving me any issues because the oil pressure always stays good, even when the noise is evident. i am starting to really lean towards the vvt actuator but i dont know under what conditions its supposed to activate, anyone have a clue?

here is a video of the noise

just a little update, i fixed the broken exhaust studs, replaced the gasket, replaced the broken motor mount and took care of a couple other things while i was at it. unfortunately the noise has come back and it seems louder now than before and even goes up and down with the rpms. im kinda starting to think it might be a spun rod bearing. i did do some reading and some other people have reported a noise when their vvt actuator started to go bad. so i think that might be the next step, tear the front of the engine apart, drop the oil pan, replace pump, chain and vvt actuator and see what it does. if that doesnt fix it, there are really only two things left, lifter going bad or rod knock. ill try to check the rods when i have the pan off but i am not sure if there is a windage tray or not. just watched a video on youtube and maybe possible it could be a dropped valve seat?

seems like it, i have been doing some research and gm recommends dropping the diff....fuck that lol. when i pull the exhaust manifold to extract the broken bolts i think ill have enough room to slide it out with out to much struggle

well you might be onto something here, over the past couple weeks the noise has increased in how often it shows up and how loud it is. so i finally took a look and found the drivers side rear two exhaust manifold bolts were missing. took out my inspection camera and see the the furthest one back might have a little meat left on it to grip with some vice grips but the other one next to it is broken off flush. also i decided to test the motor mounts and the driver side is in fact broken. the passenger side still seems good. so looks like im going to tackle these two issues first, fingers crossed that this fixes the problem and holds me over a little longer before i eventually pull the engine or trade it in lol

Very serious, I don't see why the dealer wouldn't try to negotiate a better price on a couple of those cars. Don't get me wrong, I have absolutely no knowledge of how the dealer purchasing cars from the manufacturer works, but if say the manufacturer can knock off an extra grand because the warranty on the power train becomes none existent. That just makes it that much better for the dealer.

i kinda wonder if they worked out some kind of deal with ford corporation to get the cars for cheaper with the knowledge that the car will not have any active power train warranty on it. which in turn will potentially save ford thousands of dollars in repair costs as compared to a regular mustang sold

From the info i came across, 6lbs of boost is all you can push and your really pushing the limit at that point, i guess the pistons are the first things to fail, followed by the rods. now my research was on the 6.4l (392) hemi, not the 6.1l. i think the 6.1l and 5.7l were a lot more boost friendly. from my understanding, 550 to 600whp is about max power you can "safely" push and even then there are several guys who have blown their engines at that power level

thats an awesome looking vett, it would have been hard for me to let go of that, but i agree with your statement. i was at a chevy/caddi dealer today and on the showroom floor all they had was new vetts, 3 zo6s, two of which were convertiable :gtfo:, 1 grand sport and 2 stingrays when i was on the hunt for a new car, i looked really hard into the 14+ srt jeeps, they are soo badass, they are holding their value pretty damn good. the biggest thing that turned me away from them though was their lack of ability to handle much boost with out strengthening the engine. if i was a person who could just leave shit alone and enjoy the vehicle for what it is, i would probably have one in my driveway right now lol

yep lol, thats the biggest draw back, but i dont see that being much of an issue, for the most part the only time i will be topping it off with ice would be right before a race. e85 is definitely in the plans, there is a cool flex fuel kit that will seamlessly transition between e85 and pump 93, but i will obviously need a tune and bigger injectors to go along with it

iv been looking at the engine bay mounted ones, i like how clean they look and its a much shorter distance. though they do have their downsides

i believe so but i am not 100% sure on that. i know if the bypass isnt closing all the way, it will bleed off some boost, thats why i adjusted it so that the set screw was not touching the butterfly valve. then on the final 2 runs, i unplugged the vacuum source to the bypass valve and that seems to have made a huge difference. so that kind of tells me that the ecu probably does bleed of extra boost over a set amount.

Im really happy with the numbers it put down and surprised with how much of a difference disconnecting the bypass valve makes 2011 sedan auto Pump 93 Dyno jet Outside temp 23 degrees only mods: Air raid intake Exhaust cut outs just before the mufflers stock untuned ecu *actual 1st run not shown because it was a shake down run at 50% throttle* 1st run off the street, no cool down 483whp and 462wtq 2nd run no cool down, bypass solenoid adjusted so that it wasn't touching the valve 476whp and 466wtq 3rd run no cool down cut outs open 484whp and 453wtq 4th run no cool down bypass solenoid unplugged 490whp and 461wtq Final run let the car cool down for 20 min with a big fan on it drawing in cold outside air 516whp and 483wtq last pic shows a comparison between my first and last runs, you can clearly see where the car is either pulling timing or is actuating the bypass valve For comparison, my brother in law has a 2010 camaro ss 6 speed it has: 2in LT headers, cats deleted BTR stg4 cam CAI Exhaust cut outs right at the end of the headers and tuned his car made 474whp on the same dyno

i have not found the motivation to pull the engine yet and with me recently fracturing my elbow, itll be awhile longer. the noise is very inconsistent but i guess it could still be possible that something is loose. my main concern is that it is a very distinct knocking noise. one that sounds nearly identical to a rod knock. in the end regardless of what the problem is, i will more than likely pull the engine and rebuild it, the piston slap is driving me crazy and i dont think i cant handle listening to it for much longer.

my wife and i stayed at the Hyatt Regency McCormick Place. it was a pretty nice hotel and i think when we booked it was only 170/night which included free breakfast up to 50 dollars per day. if i remember correctly, its a 4 star hotel. btw i used booking.com they had the best deals also soldier field is only 2 miles north of the hotel, so not exactly between soldier field and wriggley, but pretty close.

so your share of the bill is only 75 dollars? for the difference, i would gladly pay 25 dollars a month for unlimited data.

definitely agree, there are a bunch of good suggestions in here that i am going to follow up on. will start with the easiest...header bolts lol my wife bought me an inspection camera a few years back, i guess ill finally be able to put it to some good use

yikes, thats bad lol if i remember correctly, my yukon doesnt have an inspection cover, ill have to drop the starter to take a look

i would say this noise is probably close to half the speed of the rpms if not less, it definitely does not sound like its knocking 1800 times a minute. ill take it for a spirited drive on wednesday and see if the noise comes and ill try to get a video of it. ill also check out everything you told me to, thank you

that would make things much easier, unfortunately this is not a DOD/AFM engine. The L99 was the engine that had the DOD/AFM system

i have not tried thicker oil, its my wifes DD and she always takes it to oil change places to get the oil changed. the only reason i am still having a hard timing thinking its a rod bearing is because of how inconsistent the noise is. i can not replicate it if i try, it comes and goes on its own. also the engine shows good oil pressure on the factory gauge, have not had a chance to hook up my mechanical gauge.

hey guys i just wanted to pick your brains real quick. i really wanted another opinion before i tear the top half of this engine apart. i have a 2007 yukon denali xl, it has the l92 (vortec 6200) engine in it (basically an ls3) the vehicle currently has 180k miles on it and its been a great vehicle. Here is the problem though, for the past 10-15k miles, maybe more. there has been a distinct knocking noise coming from the engine. this noise has somewhat bewildered me. it really only happens when you are on the freeway for quite awhile and cruising with the rpms right around 18-1900 range. the sound is very distinct, sounds almost like a rod knock. the problem is, if you give it a little throttle, the noise speeds up and then goes away completely. its not there at idle or really anything below 1600 rpms. the vehicle runs great without any problems or hic ups. it also comes and goes on its own, you can be driving with the cruise control set and it will come and go. i can take long trips to visit my parents in michigan and never hear it once. lately though the sound has been coming around more often. so at this point i am kind of leaning towards it being a lifter that is on its way out and the reason the noise goes away with rpms is due to increased oil pressure. i have been mulling over the idea of pulling the engine and rebuilding it because it has horrendous piston slap on cold start (thanks gm), but if you guys also think its just a bad lifter, i might just do that for now.

yea the wagon prices are crazy, i was extremely shocked that he was selling it for soo cheap, i wasnt in the market for a wagon but i would have bought it if not to just flip it lol. it was a one owner and the guys wife drove it, they needed the wagon version to transport her photography equipment. a week later, a guy posted on one of the cts-v FB pages and i instantly recognized the car, he drove eight hours one way to buy it.