Green Bastard

At the risk of sounding like a noob, but what is a lazy tune-up? Is that anything like an Italian tune-up?

At the wheels I assume? If this is at the crank, then that seems like a lot of boost to add for ~40hp (figuring maybe the stock hairdryer is tiny and stock boost to be somewhere around 12-14psi).

Surprising to me as well after seeing the picture of the truck pinned between the 2 semi trailers and the guy walked away. But this makes sense. :lolguy:

I am not sure what material the billet housings are made of, but I do know that the factory housings are aluminum. My thought is that the billet would probably be stronger if the strength of the housings becomes a concern, though I am sure they would be pricey being that they have to be cnc'd. Also, with a billet housing (being that they have to be cnc'd) I would think you could have them designed more like a renisis housing but with more cooling capacity and have the ports already cut for you (exhaust and p-port if you plan on going that direction). A question for my own curiosity for the rotary peeps here, when you go p-port, what happens with the ports in the stock irons? Do they get filled, or is there special irons with no ports for such an application?

The wife and I are going to put it towards a vacation this year.

I wonder what just a pulley and a tune would do to a car like this.

Put her and Rush Limbaugh together with opposing views and see what happens...

Just curious, what kind of power are you making?

How much money are you looking at spending on this project? I wonder if a billet housing would be a good idea for what you are looking to try to accomplish.

First car I had to drive (parents owned it, I just drove and maintained it) was a 91 Ford Ranger, same amenities as the one Crossle had. The first vehicles I owned were (I don't remember which was first) a 1988 GMC s-15 Jimmy. 2.8 5 speed 4x4, never got to drive it because the starter was out and I sold it for $100, the truck was free. The other was a 81 VW rabbit. Clutch was out, never drove it either. I had planned on fixing this one, but it was sitting in a friends driveway and he got rid of it without asking me, only paid $100 for it though.

I always clear the loose snow off the hood roof and trunk on whichever car I drive, otherwise it just covers my windows again.

The concrete bits we use here at work (that look nothing like those) will go through rebar (though the bits are usually 3/4" or smaller and it is a pita).

Looks like it is for concrete to me too, the threads are probably there to pull the dust and debris to the surface.

Was going to ask the same question, are you in a position to take custody of the child? If you are and decide to get CPS involved, at least if they take him you have a chance to get him. This way you get to spend the time with him and watch him grow, and more importantly, you can make sure he is raised properly with proper morals and such.

I like the low, but I think the camber is ghey.

I like your version better.

Your best bet is to find someone who wants to swap their 7 and have no idea what they have. You should be able to pick up the keg pretty cheap. If I still had my old rotor housings lying around I would have given them to you, but they are gone. The other option is to buy an entire car (think fc) that does not run on the cheap and part out what you don't need (essentially getting the motor for free if you do it right).

Did she specify what year the beetle had to be? Could you get an older one and put daisy wheels on it? If not, I would at least get the turbo model and do a little tweaking so I wouldn't want to blow my brains out for having to drive it.

I see no issue with used parts that you can get cheap for practice, or used parts that are in decent shape for a "first version" build (just to get one running then buy new quality parts to do the same thing so you know it lasts). Anything you buy online I would look for good prices on because it is easier for things to be misrepresented.

I cannot find the exact thread I was looking at a couple years ago about the 4 rotor build, but this thread may be of some help. http://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/tegheim-home-made-4-rotor-wolvo-project-892879/

There is a guy on rx7club that built his own 4 rotor motor out of parts he had lying around and machining the rest. I believe he used 13b parts (and I agree with Smokey, there is no real reason you shouldn't use them also) but if you can find the thread you may be able to pm him and possibly get the specs he used.

It seems to me the easy part would be getting the housings and irons, the hard part would be getting the manifolds and eccentric shaft, it almost seems to me that those would need to be custom made.

Yeah, you're right. I must have been drunk posting last night...

No idea how to test it, it was just a thought though premature I believe. The more I think about how the ignition on those cars work, the more I realise it would be 2 cylinders misfiring if this was the issue (though I wouldn't rule it out completely yet). Try swapping the spark plug boots around and see if it follows that.

Ignition control module? Not sure that is what it is called, but what the wiring harness plugs into at the end of the cam tower cover thing (idi cover I think its called).