POS VETT

Hello Joe

Sent an email some time ago.

Andy - if you still had the broken bolts, would you bring some to CC&C so I can have a look at them? I'm merely curious about the failure mode. What was the approximate ambient temperature when they failed ?

Easton is a mighty big place ...

It's going to be hard to sway me from CFL when a pack of four 13W bulbs is only 25c at Costco.

Maybe

I didn't know that a '0 Tundra had that much towing capacity.

1. As long as the DOT 4 isn't silicone-base, it should be okay to mix. 2. Replace line one at a time, brake fluid in the reservoir will drain, but not that fast. You will have time to refill the reservoir. Use this method; empty the reservoir using turkey-baster or syringe method, refill with new brake fluid and start replacing one line at a time. Check reservoir after installing each line, top it off, then move to the next line. After all lines have been replaced, start bleeding procedure. Do not let brake fluid linger on a painted surface, rinse with water immediately; otherwise the fluid would strip the paint. Use brake fluid from unopened container and make sure it hasn't been dropped or shaken.

Doesn't hurt to take a look at one.

Randy is bringing gasoline to the bonfire party. Watch out for the vapor.

Jordan's goons are welcome here

Sean, it's called "comprehensive coverage". Over the years, I put whichever hibernating cars under comprehensive coverage only. Ohio BMV is only concerned with liability coverage; having only comprehensive coverage is not enough for their random insurance checks.

That's why I said "current policy". An insurance card will have dates ranging from the beginning to the end of the policy; whether a vehicle was covered from the beginning or from a certain date inbetween, the card will show only those two dates.

Put the car under your current policy and the insurance company will issue you a proof-of-insurance card. If you need it sooner, see if your agent could print the card on the spot. Some companies would allow you to print it yourself over the internet.

Oh geez

Welcome, Ben! Go ahead and post more, most of us are suckers for car pictures.

YAY JORDAN !

By now it's far from being shocking.

I'll take them.

It's hard to judge price without seeing the damage. I suggest bringing the car over and get an accurate quote, then you can compare the cost over acquiring a used one. Try Wheel Technologies on Weber and Westerville. I had a machined-finished lip repaired there and I can't tell anymore where the damage was.

Find out about the brands that make the bars for your car first, then, see which ones that Jeg's carries. If the specific part number isn't listed, inquire to a salesperson. Usually it's just a matter of getting them in.

I'd go with a suspension component since there are already mods for the engine. Anti-sway bars would make the car react quicker and handle better around a corner.

Maybe even a Viper V10 or a V12 out of an Aston Martin Vanquish. How about a warp drive? Do you think the radiation would be too much? The dilithium chamber would need to be tiny and the anti-matter contanment unit may not pass DOT regulations unless, maybe, it's suspended in vacuum by maglev and bathed in tachyon radiation.

Maybe someday there will be a W12 in a BR-Z/FR-S, or even a 4-rotor Wankel.

I see lighting, safety equipments, and maybe enough crashworthiness. Can it be registered for street use?