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how is your idle?

my lt1 does a very similar surge,yet not near as many rpms,maybe 50rpm. just enough to notice it.very annoying.scanned it and the code said evap. but i know nothing about EGR systems. not sure what to do.

I was out of town for a few weeks and had my car at a local garage i had do some work for me before. i installed an eibach pro kit at was going to reuse the factory WS6 struts,got a phone call saying they werent any good,and like any other fool i just said go ahead and grab some good base level struts and throw them on. now the front end of the car wobbles a bit up and down under hard weight transfer like going over an overpass on the highway or a dip in the road. when you push on the fender downward on the passenger side it feels squishy like factory springs and the drivers side feels rock solid as it should. now im not talking about something very drastic here,im talking about a wobble that only an enthusiast would notice. nonetheless it is very annoying and unsafe,the car was going to be autox'd but i wont until this problem is solved. here are the pics of the uneven strut mount bolts,at least 1in difference in height through the tower,yet everything underneath seems to be lined up fine. also the body shows no sign of collision. thanks for any help guys, Mike http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg84/scaled.php?server=84&filename=camerazoom2012070618453.jpg&res=landing http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg513/scaled.php?server=513&filename=camerazoom2012070618454.jpg&res=landing

base model car with open diff,the above posts about it being a cv shaft are likely correct. that exact problem happened to my VR4 (same car but all wheel drive). front shafts arent very expensive and can easily be swapped in an hour with hand tools.

The one that does the dyno tuning,im not sure of his last name. you can always email him

Jeff,i pm'd you back and scheduled a tune with Eric for middle of next month.he wanted me to get him a full mod list.us that something I can give to you or do I email it somewhere?

The reason I assumed it was an expensive price is a few years ago when I built another car I had it tuned 3 separate times by a reputable tuner in Chicago for 250.also, other price quotes ive had from IPS have been downright insane. Anyways, the car has a very solid 70k LT1 with headers and full exhaust,8.5mm msd wires, mild cam of unknown origin...supposedly a comp cams 503 but unsure since it was already in the car (the reason mail order tune is impossible) stage 3 clutch,stock gears. 450 isn't out of my budget, hell I don't have a budget,I just don't want to be ripped off.I just want a good tune to last me until I get my LE2 package and some 4.10s, then I'll get it retuned

I tried to search but the search option won't work on my Droid. I called IPS and they quoted me $450 to dyno tube my car. I figured that price was a direct refection of their self view, so...where should I take my LT1 TA

passenger window motor?

if it is still laying around in a couple months im all over it,but i hope for your sake it isnt.

So,heres my update. I bought a 98-02 aluminum driveshaft from Rick who was kind enough to meet up with me at Jegs this weekend and school me on these cars a bit while in the freezing cold.Thanks again Rick. That being said,i didn't get the shaft in.It was just downright too damn cold this weekend,but on my way to polaris the car stopped missing for a few miles and i was able to run up to "65" mph with absolutely no vibration,on...or off the throttle,which leads me to believe there is no drivetrain problem whatsoever. Shortly before my exit the miss started again,resulting in bad vibration again. Ive had a few vehicles in my life with ignition issues but never had one shake like i'm running 100mph with a flat tire before now. It's very strange,and the car tear down starts this coming weekend,rain or shine. any ideas?

Ill get the car up on stands on the street in front of the house this weekend (funnnnnn) and start wrenching on it.thanks to all you guys for the input on the problems ive got,ill post again when ive got some new info. Rick im gonna send you a pm about that shaft.

From what I've read that aluminum driveshaft is a direct replacement.being such a big upgrade I'd likely buy it anyways. Now, let's say worst case scenario I have to have the rear end rebuilt, where should I take it to have that work done? And even if it is only u joints I'dfor sure buy that shaft you have Rick, how are the joints in it? The opti is an OEM unit recently installed by the cars previous owner.

....and if there IS play? What does that mean in terms of what is worn/broken,and forgive me for being such a needy twat,where should i get the parts and what all parts should be needed? I'm only asking this now so the next time im in town for a few hours i can try and bust out a quick repair.

Rick i'd be open to trying that if we could do it on a day before the beginning of March.