Toph6888

Got a lot of the exhaust done today. I washed it late tonight, so it will go on the car tomorrow morning and then I will run the car to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks from the new welds. Cutting/Grinding/Welding How it goes under the k member: From teh drivers side wheel well looking towards the front. The piping only stays as low as it needs to then it pops back up next to the bellhousing. My welding won't be winning any awards, but I don't think I should have any leaking issues. All in all I have a total of 3 pieces now instead of 5. I also don't run the exhaust next to my powersteering lines, turbo oil feed line, alternator and starter wiring, clutch cable, and all in all just the hot spot that it was for having it run right next to the header. I also don't have to take off the whole dump pipe in order to change spark plugs now. I checked my measurements and fitting as I went, adn right now I am at about 3.5-3.75" clearance to the bottom of the exhaust. I have probably about 1-1.25" clearance between the top of the exhaust to the bottom of the tie rod boot on the steering rack. Depending on how things go, I may try to bring it up a little bit if possible, but I will leave it like this for now to see how it is. I had to get creative to figure out my ground clearance (woo math). Since the lowest part of the exhaust is in line with the wheels, I am hoping that it shouldn't run into any big issues as compared to the middle where it could potentially angle out with suspension travel to grind/scrape. My machine shop is closed until monday, so I will hopefully be getting my knuckles then so that I can get the car back on the ground. I will also be making a bumpsteer gauge similar to maximum motorsports as I have some wood/bolts/hinges laying around and I bought a dial indicator from harbor freight today for $15. Total I will have in it will be about $20 compared to MM's price of $120.

Got the powersteering line all set up finally. Had to spend some time making sure the fitting fit the right way and stayed in place while tightening them down. Installed: Cleans up the engine bay a good bit my not having that ps line from the gt in there since it doesnt fit right and almost had to be twisted 180* over the length of the line to get the fittings to line up right. Also started on a lot of my fab work for the exhaust. Cut the end off of my dump pipe to reroute it around the sway bar to go under the k member. It took a couple of hours and a lot of grinding, cutting, and test fitting to get it to line up right. Everything is a good 1-2" away from it and I have about 1/2-3/4" clearance on the downpipe to the k member. It worked out well because the maximum motorsport's steering rack bushing have the option of raising up the steering rack. Test fitting and grinding: Welded up. Need to get some new vband flanges to make it work properly. I checked the ground clearances with the bottom pipe going under the k member braced in and on the stands I had 13.75" clerance to the bottom of the k from my cement floor, and 13.5" ground clearance to the bottom of the dump pipe at the lowest point, so I don't think I will have any ground clearance issues. The last part of the pipe is the easy part, just an s bend and some straight pipe. I already have to pieces that fit the s angles that I need, so I just need to get my vband flanges tomorrow for the dump pipe, adn then make the pipe from there to my current mid pipe which should take all of an hour as its just welding on some straight pipe.

Got the new tensioner pulley today and got that on as well as all the small miscellaneous stuff (like the turbo lol) and looking to see what I need to do to reroute the exhaust. Looks like I will need to make two "S" bends about 90/90 each, and then just a couple pieces of straight in between it. Think I should be able to bust it out with the stainless 3" piping I have left over plus the current exhaust stuff. Just a couple pieces to grind and set up. Will post photos of the exhaust fab when it gets going, probably later tomorrow/Friday. hopefully will get my knuckles on Friday as well and can get the bump steer all set up then take it to the alignment rack I can use at work hopefully next week if the weather stays bearable.

Thanks for the thoughts. The bolts were pretty rotten, almost a 1/8" less diameter then what they were supposed to be, so they got replaced lol. Picture below kinda shows how bad they were. That one was one of the better bolts lol. I ended up getting a whole new bolt set for upper mounts, lower mounts, and control arms for $85. Over the past week and a half been working on getting all the front suspension in the car. Ran into an issue where the upper k member bolts were rotten, so I have been waiting for a week for my replacement UPR bolts for the upper and lower bolts. I also had to find some hardened nuts for the upper bolts because my stock ones were also pretty nasty, and one was seized onto one of the bolts anyways. Finally have all the new bolts with hardened fastners. New bolts compared to old bolts: New bolts finally going in: before I torqued all the bolts I made sure the k member stayed in alignment after measuring per MM's instructions (plumb bob measurements between the k member drilled location on the control arm mount to the rear subframe bolts) and then I drilled an 1/8" hole in the flat plate between the upper k member mount and the frame rail so whenever I need to tighten it down or take the k member out we can easily realign the k member with that drill bit on either side. Engine support stand finally off of the car. This is one of those rare gems from harbor freight. Engine back on the k member finally I got most of the accessories back on the car last night. I need to get a new idler pulley for the tensioner as the bearing is completely gone. I also started working on finishing up my power steering line to replace the GT one I had on the car that I had to somewhat twist to make work. I decided to make an AN line for it that is desinged to hold the pressure and fluid of the power steering system (teflon lined stainless braid line). I need to get another 90* fitting because when I initially eye baled it it looked likea 45* on one end and a 90* on the other would work, but I need two 90* bends. Here is the end on one line, it wasn't that bad to put together so long as you follow the instructions. Based on all the videos on youtube I thought this would be a real struggle but it wasn't bad at all. Only thing I am waiting on is the knuckles for the front suspension. The Tie rod holes have to be drilled out to 5/8" for the MM bumpsteer kit. Once I get that on and my bumpsteer spacing set up the car should be ready to go.

Been working on getting the new front suspension in. Got everything pretty much taken off that I wanted to (I have a lot of the front stuff off for cleaning up my powersteering system so it worked out to do the k member now with a bunch of weight off of the front). Got the stock suspension out last night with just the stock k member in it, and pulled the stock K member and got the MM one into place this morning. Engine brace holding the engine up. Got it from harbor freight and it worked really well. Also had a jack under teh oil pan as a back up, can't be too safe. Stock Vs old (we weighed them, and the MM was about 35lbs where the stock was around 43lbs, so not too much difference in weight but the clearance is awesome). Dat MM bling The biggest pain was getting the 14yr old bolts that hold the k member to the frame above the spring perches on either side. I need to find some new bolts bc mine are pitted pretty bad, so I will hold off on putting the rest of the front suspension together until I can source some bolts. I know CJ pony parts has them, but they are $30 a piece. Looking into some other potential options.

Thanks for the thoughts. I know mine has the same sort of decel fuel cut off, but it usually takes at least 3-5 seconds before it will start cutting fuel. I will have to mess with the datalogging a bit more and try to get the MAF a bit closer. I plan on taking it back up to DMS again in the spring to try to get the last bit of stuff just dialed in and play with the timing tables a bit more. In other news, Xmas came early for me this year: Maximum Motorsports Kmember, A arms, Coilover kit, Solid Rack Bushings and bumpsteer kit. Have been wanting to go tubular for a while so that I could reroute my exhaust away from a bunch of stuff that the downpipe runs right up against, adn wtih this I can run it under the k member with still enough clearance for driving. Kept going back and forth on what brand and just decided to bite the bullet and spring for the MM stuff since I found a vendor who gave me a great deal on the whole set up + shipping (MM's shipping is rediculous). I went with the MM because I really plan on being hard on the car for autocross and some track days, and I want to have the extra security with the best brand out there. I figured a couple extra hundred now compared to how much I have in my car is worth it lol. I have Dec. 20th - Jan 4th off from work with only a couple days reserved for family for holidays, so during the down time this will be being installed, exhaust refabbed, and then finally putting the car away for the winter. Hopefully the snow holds off long enough to get one or two days womping on it without it being terrible outside, so far ohio has held off from being too cold but those days will be behind us shortly I imagine.

Got the mustang out on the road tonight. went slow at first checking things (SCT livelink datalogging is just the worst, everytime I try to do a new datalog it freezes the computer and I have to spend 5-10 minutes getting everything hooked back up) and then made a couple small pulls. The car seemed to do really well minus the powersteering pump being beyond angry, time for a replacement. Later my friend came over who helped me put the time lapse together so we went back out again to get a 3rd gear pull. Its not even funny how much better it drives right now even with the tune being slightly off but still safe. AFR's are really rich still at WOT, can prob lean it out to around 11.3-11.5, right now it hovers between 10.8 and 11.0. Spark is around 18*. Old custom ground cam is in red, stock cam in blue. IAT's for red were 72*F , IAT's for blue were 50*F measured at the maf at peak rpm. Other main difference included changing the intercooler from a same in/out to an opposite side inlet/outlet which flows better. Runs were made on the same stretch of road, with the same two in the car with the same driver. These numbers aren't meant to be actual dyno numbers, but a fair representation of the change in hp/tq between the two setups. 3rd gear pull, assuming 3550 car weight and 450 passenger weight for both occupants. Boost comes on so much harder at low rpms, much better for what I was trying to get to. Will try to get the tune ironed out this weekend as when I initially come off the throttle the afr's go pretty lean with no load (so no concern) but still would like to get it set up to where between shifts it sees at most 14.5-15afr instead of 18. Also want to get the afr at WOT back up to around 11.2-11.5 and dial in teh spark timing a bit more in the 4000-4500rpm range where I start to really loose torque.

Got the mustang out on the road tonight. went slow at first checking things (SCT livelink datalogging is just the worst, everytime I try to do a new datalog it freezes the computer and I have to spend 5-10 minutes getting everything hooked back up) and then made a couple small pulls. The car seemed to do really well minus the powersteering pump being beyond angry, time for a replacement. Later my friend came over who helped me put the time lapse together so we went back out again to get a 3rd gear pull. Its not even funny how much better it drives right now even with the tune being slightly off but still safe. AFR's are really rich still at WOT, can prob lean it out to around 11.3-11.5, right now it hovers between 10.8 and 11.0. Spark is around 18*. Old custom ground cam is in red, stock cam in blue. IAT's for red were 72*F , IAT's for blue were 50*F measured at the maf at peak rpm. Other main difference included changing the intercooler from a same in/out to an opposite side inlet/outlet which flows better. Runs were made on the same stretch of road, with the same two in the car with the same driver. These numbers aren't meant to be actual dyno numbers, but a fair representation of the change in hp/tq between the two setups. 3rd gear pull, assuming 3550 car weight and 450 passenger weight for both occupants. Boost comes on so much harder at low rpms, much better for what I was trying to get to. Will try to get the tune ironed out this weekend as when I initially come off the throttle the afr's go pretty lean with no load (so no concern) but still would like to get it set up to where between shifts it sees at most 14.5-15afr instead of 18. Also want to get the afr at WOT back up to around 11.2-11.5 and dial in teh spark timing a bit more in the 4000-4500rpm range where I start to really loose torque.

I do have an EGT, its right after my turbo. The three gauges I have above my radio are my water temp, oil pressure, and EGT. I only 2 step for at most a couple seconds. It goes rich bc its just not sparking, so all the fuel is still there, its just not igniting it. The stock ford "2step" is a neutral rev limit which cuts fuel, not spark, which is why I went to the stand alone N2MB box.

Still need to do some editing and get some music to it, but my friend and I made a time lapse of putting the engine back together after swapping out the camshaft. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GNtJvfCXDc&feature=youtu.be

underdrive pulley setup sold.

Hello Everyone, Couple of parts up for sale (prices are OBO, worst you can do is ask and I say no): 1) Fuel Pump, I got this with my turbo kit and out of a ford aviator. Discrepancies about fuel flow aside, this got me to 350rwhp and 380rwtq. Should be between 255lph-310lph. Wanting to sell with my (6) 39lb/hr cobra fuel injectors. Asking for $150 shipped for the fuel pump and injectors together. http://www.superchargersonline.com/images/productimages/focus_fp.jpg (this is the factory image, pump will not come with new connector) I also will have the fuel basket from the stock tank if anybody needs that, $35 shipped. 2) V6 42% underdrive pulley. This will come with the harmonic balancer, the crank pulley and the new serpentine belt to fit it. Asking $150 shipped. 3) Air to Air intercooler, used this for a bit, nothing wrong with it, just decided to go with a different design for piping routing. Its a 28" x 12" x 3" with 3" inlet/outlet on the same side. The intercooler has four threaded bungs welded onto it for mounting, two on top, two on bottom. You can mount this so that the inlet/outlet faces either driver side or passenger side. Asking $90 shipped 4) v6 camshaft, this is a bit more of a race cam then I was hoping to go with so I am willing to sell this one. its a 216 intake duration / 218 exhaust duration with 0.54" intake lift and 0.54" exhaust lift, and a 114 Intake center line. Suggest to get some hardened pushrods with 7.150" length. I used it with stock rockers and LS blue valve springs with gt retainers/locks. I can get the part numbers for all that stuff if you want. Asking $200 shipped.

I remember undercoating my car with cans, wasn't too much of a hassle except get a shower cap or something along with the clothes, becuase when I was all done I was feeling pretty happy from the fumes and my hair was completely solid. Took an hr in the shower and half a bottle of shampoo to finally get it all free. I did mine last year on a 2000 while it was all apart, went over everything with a wire brush/drill attachements, then primer, black, and then rubber undercoating. Like others said, about 3-4 cans depending on how thorough you want to be. Initial After brushing and primer: Black: And then Rubber: (notice that its kinda more brown, but after a couple of days it went black)

I've thought about a couple different things. The way my headers are set up two small twins would be pretty easy, but I feel right now the cam is holding me back. Ultimately I'm limited by the technology of the engine, I don't want to make super crazy power or anything, I just want to have the car at least drive like it did before the turbo when not in boost, which right now it isn't doing. I actually do have a two step, I put in a N2MB two step/no lift. It did help a bit, but even 2stepping at 4000rpms (first try was at 3500rpms) the car squeaked the tires, tires grabbed, and then the rpms dropped to around 1500rpms and the car just bogged. My 60' times were around 2.6-2.7 seconds.

Im ok not making a lot of top end if I can get some more torque down low. I'll probably make around the same power overall, just at a slightly lower rpm and will probably taper off a lot sooner compared to now where I am still making power past 5500rpms. Yah, unfortunately. I have only been to the track twice, first time got a lot of runs in, second time only got two runs in, both mid 15. STill the same issue of the car falling on its face at low rpms/launch. Thats why I am going back to a stockish cam, bring the torque back down low.

Yah, I found that out after getting some more driving time with it pretty quickly. How you learn I suppose. I was hoping I would notice a bigger difference in IAT's that would help with making power since the exchanger is pretty much a two pass system, but no luck there really. Maybe if I was constantly running on a hot day it would make a difference, but the 180 bend is just way too much for it. Already have a replacement of the original going back on the car. Thanks, glad to see that this build is sticking out in people's minds lol.

Yah. Thats the hope lol. It wasn't really an extra expensive to get the two pumps and I didn't feel the twin cobra pumps would have been any better then the single pump I currently had in it. This way I am good to go fuel tank wise no matter what I go with in the future, be it a turbo v8, E85, or some other crazy idea. Plans tonight got cancelled, so I got the cam out the rest of the way. I checked my 4.2 cam and it does fit through all the bearings, so shouldn't be any issue. Need to have it cleaned up just a bit and I have to get some pushrods from my machine shop for another car I'm working on so will have them check it over to make sure its good to use. All the valve train out: Empty block:

Have to get to the lifters and what not. Its not that much more work to pull the intake off since I have to pretty much pull everything out of the way anyways. I'm not a fan of hoping that the lifters will stay in the bores when you take a cam out since its pretty easy for them to drop into the oil pan.

Started tearing into the car again today so that I can swap out the camshaft lol. Car just had nothing down low, and I don't need a race cam for my goals of the car, I am going back to a "stock" cam, a 4.2L cam from an f150 I pulled a couple weeks ago. Should wake up the bottom end a lot more with some sacrifice up top, but thats fine, I was spinning out to 6k, and if my car stops making power at 5500rpms I'm fine with that too so I don't have to spin it out so much.

N/a

Realized I haven't updated this thread in a while so thought I would catch it back up. First up, was having issues with maxing fuel injectors and vacuum leaks, so I bought some 60lb siemen deka injectors and was determined to find the leaks. Swapping out the injectors While I had the intake off I ported out the throttle body opening to allow my 70mm throttle body to open. Stock tb on bottom (57mm) new on top (70mm) Ported throttle opening: Once I put the intake back on, I managed to find my vacuum leaks by making a cheap smoker out of an air compressor air pump, some plastic tubing, a coffee can, and a black and mild. Found my leak behind the rear runner on the upper intake and also on the fuel rail where the injector sits in the head. After that I decided to figure out my main tuning issues. Was still having issues getting everything to line up right for adjustments, and I had always been trying to adjust someone elses tune. I decided that for some reason or another it wasn't working and I was mostly trying to band aid different situtations vs having them set up properly which I just couldn't get to work out with the email tunes. So I decided to make a tune from scratch following the Lasota tuning guide and now everything works really well, all the afr's are withing about 5% across all levels and at WOT everything stays nice and safe at around 11.3-11.5afr. Had lots of help from multiple people for tuning adjustments and very thankful for all the help. I wanted to be able to learn how to be able to adjust the little things so that I can have the car running during all my small upgrades so that next time I go on the dyno it will just be small touches and mostly power runs. After that I got a strut tower brace for cheap and put that on, but like most others managed to crack the cowl so I will have to get that replaced at some point. I also finally got a nice set of springs since the ones I had on were a total mismatch. Front used to be a super stiff tokico that was stock height, and then the rear was a stock cobra irs spring with a coil cut. So not only was the car tilted, the ride was harsh in the front and super cushy in the back, so I got a good deal on an unopened set of eibach sport springs for the cobra, and now the car actually rides well and looks even/comfortably lowered. Still need to get a decent picture of it as its always dirty haha. I went to the drag strip in Marion twice since most of this, and never really put down a resepctable time. It was my first time ever drag racing, so I was using the time mainly for datalogging and getting the top end of the maf curve dialed in. Best run was a 15.2 @102 mph, with a 2.58 60' time. My launches are terrible haha. Pretty much I would hold the car at 3500rpms, drop the clutch, and the tires would just grab and the car would fall on its face and take forever to get out of first, especially since even at 6k in 1st gear I am only building 2psi of boost. Overall I was running about 11.5psi, but noticed on the datalog I was at 100% duty cycle on the fuel pump by 5krpms in 3rd and 4th, but from 8psi to 11.5 psi I went from 85% load to 130% load, so thats where the turbo really starts to pick up steam. Had to back the boost off though so I didn't run lean. With that I decided to buy a n2mb wot box with 2 step. When we took it to the track after install it was super busy and a friend blew an axle so I only got two or three passes in before we had to fix his car. Launch was a little better by launching with 2inHg instead of 19inHg, so we chirpped the tires at least but still no real spin off the line, car would still just grab and hte rpms would just drop. Still trying to find that balance point between slipping the clutch and throttle control, but the WOT shifting was a very nice surprise. In the car: Exhaust (first rev was without the 2 step, didnt put the throttle down all the way ): And that pretty much brings us to today. Went to ON3 perofmance in westerville today to get some fuel goodies so I shouldn't run out of fuel for as long as the v6 is in there, a 2003/4 cobra reproduction tank (which is baffled instead of having a basket so its a little better for autocross by keeping fuel by the pumps), (2) 340lph fuel pumps, and an adapter bracket to put the current fuel level sender onto the cobra dual fuel pump hat. Tank and pumps Baffling in tank fuel level sender adapter and cobra fuel hat Also pulled a stock harmonic balancer/pulley and extra fpdm from a scrap yard Gonna be putting all the fuel stuff in this weekend hopefully, as well as upgrading the wiring for each pump since it will be nice and easy with the battery in the trunk. Got some relays, an 8 gauge wire from the battery to the relay, and then 12 gauge wiring that will go to the original and second fpdm that I picked up from the yard and then to the fuel pumps in the tank. Also going to be taking off the underdrive pulley since my powersteering pump is not happy having to supply power to the rack and also the hydroboost brake and being 42% underdriven, so a neutral balanced crank/balancer will be going on. Unfortunately the way my kit is designed I have to drain the coolant and take off one of the radiator hoses so that I can get the belt off, lame. But thats how it goes sometimes. Well, that was a huge update, sorry for the long winded-ness. Hopefully these are the last set of real mods that I will really need as everything else should just be minor adjustments, and maybe get it back on the dyno for some bigger numbers at more then just "12psi" compared to last time since the boost isn't dropping off like it did on the dyno now. Hopefully later this fall or if it has to be this spring.

I need to port out my upper intake to clearance for my throttle body. Not really a big deal as I've ported before, but what I am looking for is someone who has a parts washer that I can have wash the intake out of any of the leftover bits that might be left over after the initial vacuum out and running water through it. If anyone has a suggestion on where to take it I would appreciate it. Located in Dublin, looking to hopefully drop it off maybe tomorrow and have it back by this weekend.

Been working on getting it going again the past couple days: I decided not to use that air filter. It was plastic on the inside, and it didn't save me as much room as I was hoping for. So I went back to cone filter I had on it before. Good thing that other filter was only $15. I kept having my exhaust catch on my steering shaft, so I went to advance auto and got a cheap hanger kit to take care of it for the time being till I can dial in teh tune so that I can get it to my work where I can get it on the lift and weld in a proper hanger. Its not pretty, but hey, it will do the job for now haha. Also I sealed up an exhaust connection where I think I am getting a small air pocket and giving me false readings on my O2 sensor. Now back into the tuning. I started by tuning to dial in my maf. To warm it up I had it in closed loop so the o2's could bring the maf back into line, and this kept the car at around 14.6-15.5 for the idle. Adapative was turned off, and the base fuel table was set to all 1's for lambda 1 command (afr 14.6). I then put it in open loop, commanding lambda 1 in all fuel cells still. Car would idle at about 15.5-16afr, but evened out to about 15.3 (lambda 1.05ish) and I made multiple checks at 1500rpms, 2000rpms, 2500rpms and 3000rpms in neutral. I kept getting a lambda of 1.05 for all my readings, so I selected the maf counts that were correlated to those different rpms (280 counts was the highest) so I selected the air values for those counts and muliplied them all by 1.05. I reflash the comp, and everything looks good, giving me a 14.6-14.8 afr all the way up to 4000rpms, about 320 counts on my maf. So I say alright, lets start working on tuning this a bit on the street. I keep the maf values, and I adjust the table to where I command the lower lambdas for high loads so it hopefully doesnt blow. I turn the car back on, still in forced open loop, and it is giving me a 15.5-16 afr again at all rpms. I tried multiple times to get back to where I was having hte correct afrs/lambdas, but nothing would work. Anyone ever have this trouble and find any solutions? I'm at a loss. Cars are lame.

Got the new HPX slot style maf on yesterday and the new tune updated for the new maf curve. Got the harness all spliced together started it up and it ran great. Was able to actually take it around the block instead of just listening to it surge in the driveway. Also, does anyone have any experience with these mushroom filters? My K&N filter is too long, and its hitting my intake pipe before the maf, and its kinda skewing the pipes a bit that I would like to even out. with this new filter not being very long I would be able to straighten out the pipes, but I havent really heard good/bad on these mushroom filters http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/GRM-10-086_ml.jpg?rep=False

Haven't posted here in a while, so I figured I would give a quick update. My exhaust kinda rotates and rubs against my steering column so I need to put another hanger up by the transmission to hold it in place better. I got my tuning software from Latosa racing, including a tuning guide and DVD. I would suggest them if anyone is looking to pick up the software. So far I have been able to follow everything really easily and the guide is well worth the money. Also was working on my injector timing map since I have that bigger camshaft, working on making sure the injectors are firing at the correct time so they finish fueling the runner before the intake valve opens. I got everything I needed to fit my 70mm tb, and put it all on, and then found out that the opening in the intake is too small so the TB blade won't open. Womp womp. So next time I take the upper intake off I will have to port the intake to match the TB. I was having issues with being able to see my water temp / oil pressure / EGT gauges, so I bought an angled gauge holder set from Summit. Took a while to get in because I had to dremel clearance for the angled holders on the center console. Got a little too happy with the dremel, but overall I think it worked out well and while in the car its a lot easier to see the gauges. Kinda hard to tell in the pictures, but instead of pointing straight back, they are angled toward the driver at about a 30* angle. I wired up my 3bar map sensor, as well as setting up the firewire cable for the map sensor and wideband afr so I can now datalog boost and afr with my handheld/computer. I switched all the intake piping back to 3" piping, so I am now working on scaling hte maf for the 3" tubing. Initially divided all of the maf table by the cross section ratio of the 3" to the 3.5" as a starting point. Got the engine up to temp, then logged in closed loop the maf counts/afr/STFT bank 1 and 2 at idle, 1500/1750/2000/2250/2500 rpms to adjust the table. Did 2-3 iterations based off of the STFT's and got the car to where it ran pretty smoothly and held between a 14.5 and 15 afr. drove it around a little bit, and everything looked to be pretty good, except when initially leaving a stop sign the afr would go to 16.5 but as soon as I was off the clutch it would go back to 14.5-15. So I need to figure that out. The maf should be close enough now though to where I can force open loop and tune the maf in better. Hopefully get that done next week. Last bit, getting into another project as well, a 2007 Suzuki GS500F. It's my first bike so it should be enough to get me around and not worrying about dropping it if/when I do. It has just a couple small imperfections (the cowl has a 2-3" crack on either side by the turn signals that I will repair/paint) and then a small rub on the edge of the left fairing and a small rub on the crank case. All in all its a pretty solid bike, especially for under $2500.