Toph6888

Are the times posted anywhere yet? Checked the fb page and ufo page but didn't see any obvious links/lists

Fun event today, was surprisingly slick out there. Thanks to those who put the time in to make it happen!

I'll be there wtih a small group (4-6 cars). We were planning on going to kilkare for corvette troy's autox, but this is much closer.

Ya, there are quite a few gauges lol. I would have preferred to put a couple of them in the glove box, but the glove box in these cars is pretty small/shallow, so there just wasn't enough depth for the gauges/wiring (at least the ones I have). On these cars the engine oil pressure is redundant (its just an on/off switch once the pressure is over a set value, it reads OK), so I added that. Then the water temp was added so that I can see the actual value since I have change the thermostat on the car from 194*F to 180*F. EGT for the turbo since its oil cooled and I wait to turn the car off so that I don't coke the oil in the bearing. AFR gauge and boost controller for the turbo/datalogging. Diff oil temp bc that is a problem on these cars with the IRS since the IRS housing only hold 1.5 qts oil as compared to the solid axles 2.5qts, and the IRS exhaust runs right under the diff housing. At track sessions others have reported as high as 240-260*F diff oil temps, so I put this in now since I was already redoing the diff assembly. Later on I will probably be adding a diff oil cooler. And finally engine oil temp since I have wanted to see where I am during autox sessions and eventually HPDE, and will also probably be adding an engine oil cooler in the future as well. My thought is to do similar to the OEMs though and use an engine coolant to engine oil cooler system vs an air to oil cooler system, still researching the best way to accomplish this. Few reasons for this is 1) heats the oil when cold, 2) cools the oil when too hot, and 3) doesn't take up space infront of the intercooler/radiator since the mustangs don't have a ton of air flow up front to begin with. Concerns would obviously be the oil and coolant mixing, but a proper cooler shouldn't have any issues.

Rear suspension / drivetrain / gas tank are all back in the car. No pics bc thats pretty boring. Been taking apart the front of the car so that I can drop the k member and drop the oil pan to redo the gasket since I have a small pin hole leak thats right by the crank pulley that is slinging the oil everywhere on the bottom of the car. Last night I finished prepping the car for that and also getting the rest of the blue led conversion in on the gauges and running the wiring for the additional two oil temp gauges (one for engine one for diff)

Bump, gonna be warm this week!

Exhaust/Resonators Sold.

PM'd.

Still available if you want them...

Thanks. I'm glad I did it at least once. next time I may go about getting some quotes from shops before I decide to tackle another one lol. Time wise and schedule wise it took a lot longer than I thought it would. Got a couple "fun" bits out of the way. After I got my extra gauges set up for blue lights, I had some time today waiting for a friend to come over to help me with the diff. All blue lights in the HVAC controls as well as the center stack gauges (makes the red pointer stand out way more than the red leds let them) The main oem gauge cluster uses a different LED, so I ordered those as well. Should be able to finish up all the gauges later this week when they show up. Then finally got this bastard into place. The new diff cover is a lot thicker, so getting it by the exhaust hanger mounts and the tie rod mounts was difficult, we ended up having to angle it in crooked on our backs, not fun. Put the driveshaft on with some red loctite on the bolts. I put one axle in to just make sure it slid home as I have heard some cobra guys say there are a couple different torsen diffs out there and maybe some early model ones don't fit the IRS axles, but mine slid in just fine. I have to pick up some new diff oil (i decided not to use the royal purple since I don't need and don't want to run it with the friction modifier). Will pick that up tomorrow, prelube the axle bearings on either side, fill the case, and then get all the IRS ends on, torqued and fuel tank back up into place.

Some better pictures of the contact pattern: Drive side: Coast Side: Got the cover drilled and tapped for the temp sender Nice thing about this cover is that when I start doing more track sessions it will be easy to install a diff cooler later on down the line. Got the cover onto the diff with high strength grey RTV (required due to the mounting of the cover/housing to the IRS frame). And finally got my new gauge pod for the engine oil temp/diff temp gauges and all the wiring done up for them so they are ready to go in. Waiting on some new LEDs for the main gauge cluster.

Yup. Available to meet today if interested. PM me for contact info.

Its been a while since I've been able to put some solid time in to getting this diff and housing together, but over the last two nights I got it all pretty much together. Last night got the pinion races, small pinion bearing, oil slinger, and seal onto the back of the housing. Then got the pinion shim (Stock ford one) and the large pinion bearing pressed onto the pinion, then put in a new crush sleeve and took my time getting close to the correct preload. That was one son of a bitch to get right. Ended up with about 20-23inlbs, and target is 16-28inlbs of preload, so I'll take it. Tonight I got the bearings onto the diff and torqued up all the bolts for the ring gear onto the diff. Started with my new spacers to start messing with backlash. Original diff spacing had 0.000" backlash, so I ended up having to mess wtih the shims multiple times, taking the caps off multiple times and pulling out the diff multiple times. What a process. Ended up wtih right about 0.009" - 0.010" backlash around the gear (checked about 4-6 places). Target is 0.008" - 0.015", so I'm right on the tighter end where I want to be. Initial reading: Backlash: Then checked the gear tooth pattern. rotated the diff around a full 5 rotations either way after marking up a bunch of teeth. Checked both the drive side and coast side. Both patterns are centered in the depth of the gear tooth. While the contact is a touch closer to the inside diameter than the outside diameter, both patterns are similar and considered to be acceptable gear patterns, so that't what I'm gonna go with. Drive side (clamp shown for reference due to difficult pictures) Coast side (again, clamp shown for reference) Acceptable patterns: (mine is A) All in all, it was nice to learn how to do it all. Would I do it again? idk. It was a pain in the ass. If you can find someone to do it for you for around $300 youre prob better off paying someone else to do it lol.

Shocks sold.

Injectors sold.

11) Cobra Mustang IRS Eibach lowering springs. I went to all coilovers, so no longer need. I bought them new off another member, used them for maybe 3-5k miles. Practically new. $150obo, shipping extra. Come with polyurethane isolators. 12) Stock cobra bilstein rear shocks. About 40-45k miles on them. Went to coilovers so no longer need. pictured above. $25 per shock obo, shipping extra. 13) 2008-2014 wrx/sti stock intake box. Needs a new air filter. Comes with the hardware/brackets pictured with it, as well as the air duct. $75 obo. 14) Don't have the pictures bc its at a friends house, but also have the stock downpipe and catback exhaust from a 2014 wrx hatchback. Should fit all hatched 08-14. $75 for the downpipe and $150 for the catback. Not wanting to ship but if you want to pay for it we can work something out.

Lots of items for sale. Located in Dublin Ohio. ALL ITEM OBO. Just want to get this stuff out of the garage. 1) Ford Cobra IRS differential Cover. Selling because I bought the ford racing one. Looking to get $100 OBO. 2) Billetflow Cobra IRS differential cover brace. Looking to get $100 OBO. Comes with all the bolts/hardware to put it on your car. 3) Magnaflow 3" stainless steel mufflers, straight through resonator style. Been sitting around for a while. $25 picked up per muffler takes them (shipping extra). 4) Custom ground 3.8/4.2L ford v6 camshaft. To much top end for what I wanted my car to be. When I measured it the specs were 216 intake duration / 218 exhaust duration with 0.54" intake lift and 0.54" exhaust lift, and a 114 Intake center line. Looking to get $100 for it, its been sitting around in the garage for too long waiting to sell. 5) Stock 03/04 cobra 39lb injectors. I upgradged to 60lb injectors. Looking to get $50 OBO. 6) V6/GT Mustang 99-04 fuel hat with Aviator 300lph fuel pump. This was good for me to 370rwhp. I upgraded to dual cobra pumps to go further. Comes with sender, you will have to put a new connector on it though. PCV delete. Looking to get $75 obo. 7) 99-00 v6 mustang throttle cable. Can be hard to find if you need it. Looking to get $20 obo. 8) v6 mustang electric radiator fan. Pulls a lot of CFM, lots of offroad guys will use these for their cars. $30 obo. 9) Stock Ford 31spline limited slip differential. Fits 8.8 housings. Has around 40-45k miles on it. I took it out to replace with a torsen. Looking to get $100obo. 10) CXRacing 3" thick intercooler. 3" inlet/outlet. Looking to get $50 obo.

Spent the weekend with a lot of friends so only limited work done on the mustang. Differential was being a real bitch. Got the spreader set up and with that was able to get the diff and ring gear popped out. Still took a bit of heat and a pry bars on either side. Now for the pinion gear. WHAT. A. BITCH. Got the pinion flange off easy enough with my flange holder to get the nut off, and then got a 2jaw puller to pull the flange off. Then the garage was filled with a lot of cursing since the pinion bearings wouldn't come off of the pinion gear. Wanted to save it so I could sell it, then the 2lb sledge came out for 15-20 mins, then I finally had to use my press to push it out of the housing finally with a thunderous pop. The remaining end of the pinion shaft: Once those were out the remaining bearing races came out really easy with the brass drift and hammer. No issue there surprisingly. Tried to get the large bearing off of the pinion shaft but my press is too small to allow the pinion gear to slip through the holding bar, so I'll have to get that one off at work. Hoping that the reassembly of the parts goes much smoother than the disassembly.

Didn't do too much last night as a guy in the same complex stopped by to check out hte mustang and to show me his older 240 that he is workong on LS swapping. Was trying to work on the diff on the bench, but it just wasn't having it. After going back and forth on how to work on it and making a jig to hold it, I looked in the corner at my engine stand and just said "duh". Got the cover off and drained it of the old gear oil, then started working on how to mount it. These are the little things that take an hour or so that you never plan on when working on a project car. Little bit of angle iron and some 1/2" all thread mocked it up pretty well. 1/2" fit the front bushings/sleeve, and I just used a set of nuts/washers to set teh spacing dependent on the upper mount. I still have to spread the case to get the diff out, on the IRS cars you have to spread the case I believe 0.030" to account for expansion when the differential is warm. Just gonna use some angle iron on either side and either some all thread or some spring compressors to hook onto the angle iron and then expand the case. Something like this:

Bump $2400 OBO

been sitting on this car for the winter due to having to rebuild my old outback's engine after it ran out of oil and chewed up the cam bearings/snapped the camshaft. After fixing that and making a little profit for my time, I have been saving up and buying some parts that I am finally working on putting in. New Parts: Rear maximum motorsports coilovers / revalved bilstein shocks Eibach sway bars front/rear Maximum motorsports adjustable rear swaybar links Torsen T2R differential 3.90 Gears Ford bearing kit / diff oil Ford racing IRS cover Managed to get all the IRS suspension parts out and the differential out of the car this weekend, should be able to get the new diff/gears installed during the week and hopefully start getting the rear end back together shortly. Also going to be fixing up the coolant hoses since they are a bit too wide and putting pressure on the couplers (they are solid steel coolant lines from the turbo conversion) and also a small oil pan leak that I will have to drop the front suspension to pull the pan out. The joys of project cars. Made my pinion flange tool out of some 1/4" x 1" x 36" stock from lowes, just needed two holes and a bit of grinding to fit. Shouldn't be an issue to hold that when I need to torque the crush sleeve / check backlash.

been sitting on this car for the winter due to having to rebuild my old outback's engine after it ran out of oil and chewed up the cam bearings/snapped the camshaft. After fixing that and making a little profit for my time, I have been saving up and buying some parts that I am finally working on putting in. New Parts: Rear maximum motorsports coilovers / revalved bilstein shocks Eibach sway bars front/rear Maximum motorsports adjustable rear swaybar links Torsen T2R differential 3.90 Gears Ford bearing kit / diff oil Ford racing IRS cover Managed to get all the IRS suspension parts out and the differential out of the car this weekend, should be able to get the new diff/gears installed during the week and hopefully start getting the rear end back together shortly. Also going to be fixing up the coolant hoses since they are a bit too wide and putting pressure on the couplers (they are solid steel coolant lines from the turbo conversion) and also a small oil pan leak that I will have to drop the front suspension to pull the pan out. The joys of project cars. Made my pinion flange tool out of some 1/4" x 1" x 36" stock from lowes, just needed two holes and a bit of grinding to fit. Shouldn't be an issue to hold that when I need to torque the crush sleeve / check backlash.

Hey, messaged you on Moddedmustangs.com too, not sure if you frequent there or here more. I'll take it. Would you do $50 if we met up in CBus somewhere? I'm in Dublin, but willing to drive.

Bump

Antilag has been used for launching, thats the way all the world rallycross cars start off the line. Not saying that antilag isn't used between shifting either. My main point was that this thread wasn't supposed to be about antilag, but using spark cut or fuel cut as a 2 step rev limiter for launching.