Toph6888

And finally a general under body shot of the MM kmember with the engine / longtubes I have been meaning to take.

Decently successful weekend, but that fuel system took up all my time. Saturday I spent three hours making two brakets and half of the powersteering lines. Fuel Regulator bracket: Powersteering resevoir mount location (still need to drill / tap the line to the powersteering pump, otherwise its done) Powersteering cooler I put on a while ago: Lines for the powersteering cooler all done: Then on sunday we finally ran the lines. What a bitch. Lots of planning and figuring out where they would go. I still had the solid vapor tube line from the fuel tank to the engine, so I basically just followed that like the stock line did. Lots of holes, rivnuts, cushion clamps, zipties, and hours later, I have the fuel tank in with all the fuel hoses done. Initially ran them up in the fender well. There is actually a lot of room here and the shock and coil would have to completely FAIL for the wheel/tire to get up in it. There is about an inch clearance between the fuel lines to the fender well liner when its in the arch. Cushion clamps Down under the car Around the seat posts Down the tunnel (there is about 1.5-2" of clearance to the driveshaft) And out around the gas tank. Ended up just doing straight connections here. Originally i wanted to make some sort of easy to get to disconnect, but there just wasn't room and there is actually plenty of space to get the lines off the tank when you drop it about halfway. Shitty picture but TANK IS IN Decided to put the fuel filter in the fender arch. Easy to get to, still on the feed line before the regulator, and it tucks nicely out of the way. Feed line for the engine from the regulator done. It will tie up nicely on the strut tower brace. Regulator with Gauge Still need to find a place for the remote oil filter, mount exhaust, finish the powersteering reservoir, and then wiring. Hopefully this week I can get the oil filter and reservoir done, then tackle the exhaust this weekend, and hopefully start on the wiring.

Sounds good. If you feel like like checking it out this weekend I'm over around 161/71. I also need to see how a couple of your vacuum hoses are routed at the throttle body lol. Pm me for more info

Thanks for the comments guys. (And DKilbourne, of course the shift knob will make it faster. Also, you lucked out on that deal. A month after I bought it from you LMR now offers a reproduction cobra knob for $30). Finally finalized where I am going to mount the fuel regulator after a lot of thinking things over and going back and forth. Was thinking maybe on the driver side where the stock fuse box is, but wasn't a fan of tucking all those wires under the fender. Plus the powersteering reservoir needs to go there too. Also looked at mounting it directly on the fuel rail, but not a fan of a big block on the side, not to mention there wasn't a lot of space to really make it work/get the lines to it. Decided to finalize the intake path, then the powersteering reservoir, and the new ecu (which will tuck very nice into the passenger fender and won't be seen). Then decided because there was such a giant hole on the passenger side where the stock intake used to go, thats where the regulator needed to go. Got some more 90* bends from jegs, test fit some line, and decided to mount it at an angle to make the transitions from the line to the reg easy and provide a nice straight shot from the reg to the fuel rail. TL;DR: Fuel regulator is going on the passenger side front and center. ENHANCE: Will be easy to check the lines, adjust pressure as needed, and easy to read the gauge here. Also, checked the fit of the strut tower bar, went on like a charm. The only thing it comes close to is the heater hoses, so no big deal. But no room for the 5.0 Engine cover. Ohh well. Maybe if I can find one to borrow I can check, but I don't think its gonna fit. Now that the regulator has a set position, goal for the weekend is to: 1) Make bracket for fuel regulator (Right now its got that NHRA approved zip tie mount) 2) Run lines to fuel tank 3) Make lines from tank to fuel filter / bracket 4) Mount Powersteering Reservoir/finish lines 5) Remount stock fuse box / wiring 6) Mount Exhaust 7) Mount new ECU / Start wiring If I can get through items 1-6, the car will physically be mechanically together.

Got a little bit more done this weekend. Friday night I worked on getting the fuel hat/pumps/sender all together, and then broke the sender. So Saturday morning I got up early and headed over to pick and pull and spent two hours going over two mustangs to get what I needed. Got some new A pillars (since my old one was hacked up from the A pillar gauge pod), a new firewall cowl cover, and finally a fuel sender. Took a long time becuase now instead of mounting on 4 stands they only mount on 3. They put two on teh front, one on the rear, and for the mustangs they just drop that stand right on the fuel tank. AWESOME. Managed to find a jack and lift it up onto a couple spare stands they had to finally get the tank down adn get the sender. 10 min job turned into an hr because of that. Anyways, got the hat all together and the depth of the fuel pump figured out, but then this vent tube kept hitting on the billet fuel hat. Ended up cutting a little over 1.5-2" off of it. After three attempts of shortening it we finally got the hat assembly to fit inside. Ran the wires for the fuel pump (I left a couple spare red/black wires in there in case I decide to boost in the future and need another pump) and sealed up the wiring holes with Seal-All. Tank Together: That was about as far as I got thanks to the time lost at the pick and pull. Did finish the gauge pod mostly, and wanted to see how it looked in the car, so I mocked it up. I'm pretty happy with how they came out. Also mounted up the new powersteering cooler but forgot to get a pic. Ordered this powersteering reservoir though and a bunch of line, couplers, fittings, and the electrical connectors for the gauges so I can get that stuff all wired up. Nickel and dime, nickel and dime....

Couple more things done on the mustang this weekend. Got the brackets for the resevoir bottle figured out. Currently aluminum, and a bit flimsy for what I was hoping, so I will use the aluminum ones as templates to make out of some steel to hold the bottle properly in place. Got the fitting for the power steering line into the pump, got the pump onto the engine and then got the serpentine belt done, so now all I need to do is make an AN powersteering line from the pump to the hydrooboost, adn then get a better powersteering cooler and that will be all set. Started messing with lower radiator hose. The outlet of my radiator is 1.75", but inlet of the cooling system on the engine is 1.5". Also the powersteering pump is big and close to the line, so I will have to cut the rad hose that came in the engine management kit and splice in a 1.5" to 1.75" 90* bend (that I luckily had jsut sitting around from an old project). Just need to buy a 1.5" - 1.5" aluminum coupler and the lower coolant line and the entire cooling system will be complete. Next we moved onto wiring. Got the old pcm harness loom out and starting to go through it to figure out what I can get rid of and what I need to keep. Also found my AC request electrical signals that I will need to splice into the new control pack harness to control the AC clutch. Also ran the wiring loom for the new control kit to get an idea on where everything will roughly go. Spent last night at the kitchen table getting the new gauges into the cluster I bought. Finally got them all fit in after a lot of dremeling and measuring to make sure they were more or less even. I need to start working on the car during the weeknight evenings as well and try to just focus on completing one small project at a time. Still didn't get to the gas tank because the cobra tank has a vent tube for the baffled area that is too tall for the fuel hat to clear, and I am out of dremmel cut off wheels and my pipe cutter was broken. So once I get that clearanced I should be able to get the tank together and start running fuel lines on Thursday.

I decided to hold off for now. If it was an older engine or one pulled out of a car I would, but since this is a fresh crate engine I want to make sure everything runs right and whatnot before I break into it. overall its not crazy difficult to get into the engine bay with this engine compared to what the v6 and all the turbo stuff was lol.

Not too much of an update, but last night I took the 03 cobra driveshaft I bought last week in Toledo and lined it up and it went on nice and quick. Initially the splines weren't lining up but after fidiling with it for a couple mins it finally popped in. So the drivetrain is now connected to the rear diff/suspension. Also test fit the mid pipe. Originally when I put it on the passenger side was off by about 1" and the pipes were hitting the trans tunnel. Crawled out from under the car to look it over, and then noticed "BBK" was upside down. Flipped it up and it fit on pretty well. Who would have thought the x pipe was freaking directional. At least no welding will be needed. Also fitted up the coolant temp sensor into the heater hose inlet to the heater core since that is the simplest place to get the heat. There is a bung you can use down by the oil filter attachment, but the oil filter relocation and the engine mount are kinda of in the way so I will just use the heater hose temp and compare against datalogs to make sure its well enough in the ballpark. Saturday will be a big push. Gonna try to get the interior out so I can start getting the rollbar in and get all the old wiring out, try to get some gauges mounted and new body wiring loom run as well as finish up the fuel tank/lines/regulator and maybe even finish the powersteering pump/hose/lower coolant hose. Overall things are going together pretty quickly.

Managed to get most of the random parts into the car yesterday. Brought over my engine brace that mounts above the engine on the fenders to lift the engine up so that we could get the passenger long tube in. got it in and realized that it was right up on the passenger frame rail when we dropped the engine back into the k member, so we had to jack it back up again and bash the fuck out of the one runner. Now I have roughly 1/4"-1/2" clearance along most of it. On the very back it gets closer to that 1/4", but hopefully will be ok. Also fitted the intake manifold and gained a bit of clearance on the back of the manifold where the pneumatic actuator for the CMCV. Then my phone died from the cold. But we were able to also get the clutch cable in, ac compressor on, steering rack, throttle pedal with new adapter bracket and shifter for the T56 into the car. Checked the driveshaft, its roughly 1/2" too long and the yoke doesn't match the transmission output shaft. So I will either have to find an 03/04 cobra driveshaft or get mine shortened and a new yoke. Put the cold air intake on and the water overflow bottle to check for hood clearance. Had to take off the fan shroud as that was binding up on the bottle/intake, but with that off I will be able to close the hood with about 1/4" - 1/2", so ultimatly no clearancing was needed on the car to fit the coyote engine in there, like it was made for it. Hopefully later this weekend I will get a chance to start taking out a bunch of the oem wiring so I can replace it with the new body harness from the Ford Control Pack kit. Need to finish: Wiring Driveshaft Fuel system Gauges Fluids

Weight wise I don't think its going to be much difference. The v6 (iron block) had quite a bit of weight. Ford books listed the 3.8L at around 380-400# without accessories. Ford lists the 5.0L coyote (aluminum block, aluminum pistons, plastic intake) at ~420ish# without accessories. Accessories are pretty much a wash between the two. Plus with the V8 I drop all the turbo piping, turbocharger, intercooler piping, and intercooler, which all fits in front of the wheels, so I have dropped a lot of weight off of the front of the car. I'm hoping all the suspension changes will be positive as it should be slightly weight down, and inboard the wheels now. I'm hoping for a lot better turn in. Yah, that was about 4 years ago. It worked at the time, and while it sucks giving up on the 6, it was time and I had someone who is continuing on with it, so its not gone forever. Just on to a new owner. A lot of fox/sn95 guys are wanting coyote swaps, the motors are still hella pricey compared to building something else. I wanted to get away from the custom bit and make my targets of 400whp/400wtq without having to go boost. The 4.6L can make good power with boost, but they have other issues too. By staying NA now I can go higher power in the future if I want to without being limited by the motor that needed boost to hit 400 initially. Besides, everyone knows the main reason to do a coyote swap is to make changing the spark plugs easier.

Had a couple days off from work, so managed to get some more things done. Before Xmas: Got my new alternator bracket in since the 15+ timing cover doesn't have some of the bosses their standard alternator bracket needs, also the standard bracket doesnt work with the coyote alternator. I have an F150 alternator, and it looks like the housings are just slightly different in terms of where the case bolts line up, so a little grinding was needed ("Bolt on"!) alternator needed a bit of clearancing as well for the belt tensioner and a timing cover bolt Got that all on and lined up, and then realized the alternator pulley is too short to line up with the other accessories, BAH! Turns out Power By the Hour has a longer alternator pulley that you have to use. Man, they know how to throw in almost everything you need. So that is on order, should be here shortly. In the meantime, mockup: Also had to nudge the AC lines off of the compressor a half inch or so to get it past the stud the alternator bracket connects to. All the accessories in place: Fastforward to yesterday Got the engine ready to drop off teh stand. Pulled off accessories as they will be easy to install in the car, and also pulled off the manifold/fuel rails. I love the modular. 10bolts, 4 sensor connectors and the 8 fuel injector connectors and it pulls off all in one piece. Got the engine on the ground to start with the clutch and flywheel. I didn't bother taking any photos of that because its a boring clutch and flywheel install. I did however manage to forget to buy flywheel bolts, so I ran down to jegs, and they only had $45 ARP flywheel bolts. So at least my flywheel is held on with some bitchin bolts. After we got the clutch in the transmission slid on pretty easily. Decided to go for broke and put the exhasut on as well. Worked out well because I had to reuse some studs with the long tubes because they only included 11 bolts (I need 16, bah). Tried putting it in, and the passenger header has a pipe that is pretty far forward that just kept grabbing on the k member and couldn't get it in. So we pulled it back out and pulled off the passenger header and starter. They will suck putting in in the car, but its doable and I was getting tired and just wanted it in. After about an hour or so of fucking with it going in twice (out once haha) we got it in. I mocked up the intake manifold to see if the CMCV (charge motion control valve in the intake manifold, one of the big updates for 2015+ coyote motors) would clear the firewall, and they seem to be good. Also checked where the radiator, alternator and overflow bottle will sit. Will have to make some small adjustments to the rad fan I think to get the bottle under the hood, but overall it looks pretty Bad Ass to me. Old turbo v6 set up for comparison Hoping over the rest of the week to at least get the other exhaust manifold on, intake manifold completely on and start messing with the wiring and the gauges.

Technically they didn't refuse it, his buyback has been postponed. Its all being reviewed and most likely VW trying to put out the fires now rather than having to worry about a bunch of torn up cars coming in since this is the biggest press story so far about the topic. Ultimately, if there isn't any legal stopping this guy VW will have to deal with it. Is it silly/spiteful? maybe. I don't really care because I don't have a VW, so its not my problem/I don't get to decide how it goes, so whatever. I just enjoy watching it all unfold. One of teh best comments I saw was "VW has been nice enough to offer a buy back, why would people try to take advantage of that?" and I lol'd hard. VW isn't being "nice" about it. They are being forced into the buyback. No major corporation would willing give away tons of money to scrap a fleet of their product. Working for a car company, everything comes down to money. Why do quality go down on certain parts? Because we take cost out to four or more decimal places. When you're selling a couple hundred thousand vehicles a year, over multiple years, that cost adds up, and quick.

Couple small things over the weekend. Got the engine mounts ("bolt on", only required just a little clearancing with a small dremmel bit as the holes were just slightly too close together). Also got the oil filter relocation adapter on from MMR. Nice piece. Also got the adapter brackets from Power by the Hour on for adapting the 99-04 accessories onto a coyote engine. Coyotes don't have hydraulic powersteering, and with the hydroboost I will need the hydraulics. This kit mounts the powersteering and AC compressor in the stock 99-04 locations, then flips the alternator in front of the engine. I still need to buy one more adapter bracket for the alternator. The kit I got I was told was for the newer engines and use a coyote alternator, but was actually the older coyote engines and use the 99-04 alternator. (thanks a lot craigslist, ohh well. Same price I would have paid so no real foul). The older Alternator bracket has you drill into a boss in the timing cover and tap for a support for the alternator bracket, but my timing cover doesn't have that boss. So the new bracket I ordered will bolt to two existing timing cover bolts and a third strut bolt off of the block and is all billet aluminum, so will be the better bracket to run in the future anyways, and will let me use the coyote alternator that I already have. Finally, mocked up a long tube to see what we would have. Next week will be my big push in trying to get everything into the car and the wiring set up so hopefully that all goes well and I don't miss any of the wiring between the new system ford made and my current oem wiring that I can gut most of it out.

Ahh, fresh crate motor. Was a fun friday. Comes in a pretty nice crate from ford. A good idea to read the full description from Ford though. See if you can find out whats missing.... passenger side: Driver side: Originally thought ford just messed up, but in their actual description they list the motor as ONLY coming with a passenger side header, no drive side. Hah. Ohh well, not a big deal since I was gonna trash them anyways because I have long tubes. Had to figure out a way to get the engine out as the boom on my hoist didn't have enough reach and the legs were getting in the way of the pallet, so we had to essentially jack up the pallet and put it on some jackstands to pull the new motor our and put the F150 motor in to hopefully help sell it. Got everything moved around. Just waiting on a couple more AC/powersteering/oil filter relocation parts to come in the mail. Gonna hopefully get the accessories and exhaust manifolds mounted on the engine and then will get the bay cleaned up of a couple things/clearance for the IMRC valves on the back of the 15+ intake this week/weekend.

I've had this car for a long time, and I've always (more or less) enjoyed working on the car. If you look at it as just the sum of its parts, of course its never going to be worth the money. The knowledge I gained from building the 3.8, and from all the troubleshooting, tuning, suspension changes/adjustments, figuring out brake bias, learning electrical, being able to fix my other cars, my fiance's car, the outback that I owed $3k on that my brother blew up the engine and then I was able to fix and sell for a $1000 profit, thats where my value is. I get people don't like the coyote, thats fine. But thats what I'm going with, so

Yah, with the crate motor, not so much cost neutral anymore lol. But it will be the right engine to go with in the end for what I want and where it will just (hopefully) work right. I've learned to just do it once, do it right.

Is the coyote engine expensive, yup it is. And I agree, junkyard build or not caring about matching motors to make,etc, LS is the obvious choice, its also got the extra displacement to work it though. For me and track racing/autox, I'll take the extra RPM range (factory, obviously an LS can be built up to a higher rpm redline) and the more interesting motor (TI-VCT) to me, personally. Anyways, would prefer to not have a "chevy vs. ford" battle in this thread.

Found a really good deal on a 2015-2017 coyote mustang crate motor, so I will be purchasing that and selling the F150 coyote motor. Nothing wrong with the F150 and I'm sure I could still make it work, but things are just going to be easier with going with the new crate engine and not having to worry about swapping cams. I am planning a wedding too, so I decided a little more money for an engine that is ready to go in the car out of the package is the way to go right now. If you're interested in the F150 motor, let me know. Put it up on Craigslist for $4000, willing to do a deal for someone on here though if they are interested. http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/5905539854.html

Well I have pretty much all of my parts, waiting on two or three more things. Hopefully some excitement for this project next week. Stay tuned. One (1) Coyote install kit:

Worked on the engine a bit last night, I love having a super low mileage engine. Got the iron exhaust manifolds off, engine mounts off, took off the ac compressor (not sure if I'm going to use this one or the 99-04 compressor, depends on how I want to do ac lines) and also got the wiring looked at. Looks like I'm going to need a new engine harness becuase the main connector got a bit smashed up. I could probably make it work, but its also a harness for an auto, which I have heard has some pins mixed up from the manual (supposedly) and a new harness from Ford is only $150, so I'll just bite the bullet and get a proper new harness. Pulled the coils and sparkplugs, put a little oil where I could and just roatated it over a couple times. Everything spun cleanly, so good enough for me. Have those plugs in the cylinder head between the valves feels way easier to deal with than having them down by the exhaust manifolds/burning spark plug boots on an older style engine. Also got my accessory bracket kit and JLT air intake in the mail last night. Tonight the majority of the other swap parts should be in. Ordering mustang cams and the harness today, and probably going to just get the oil pump gears and timing gear while I am in there to just be done with it. Just another $800 pretty much today lol. Hoping to get the cams, oil pump gears, timing gears and new harness on next weekend with the brackets for the accessories, then I can spend my week off at the end of december putting the engine/transmission in the car.

yah. The stock intake manifold doesn't seem to flow super well up top past 6500, but it doesn't seem to dive either. but like you said, better now than later. I'll have to look more into them, MMR billet oil pump gears and billet timing gear is $520 together. Not a bank breaker, but not small chunk of change either lol.

Ya, I have heard of the oil pump gears and the lower timing sprocket. Trying to decide how much money I want to blow on this thing. I do want to be able to use that full 7k rpm range.

I mostly autocross with more focus on trying to get to more track days. I spent a lot of time over the last two years autocrossing it getting it dialed in, but for as many events as I ran about half of them I ended up breaking some stupid part or having a coolant leak or something. The V6 was fun to learn on, but I'm ready for an engine I can hopefully ahve just work (no major mods, stockish ecu tuning). The main reason I decided coyote is during my track day at mid ohio my instructor had a 2013 boss 302 laguna seca full prepped track car (stripped interior, full "who knows how many points" cage, etc). I felt like I never was super low on power compared to him, but he just had such a broad torque curve and could just leave it in 4th the entire track and never lost power that I decided that was the right move. On straights I could probably keep up, but coming out of tight corners he just had so much more power it wasn't funny.

Sure. I have a whole excel sheet haha. My target budget was about $10k. I am also doing more (gauges, full AN line fuel system, etc) so I gain some price there, but I totally scored on the engine and the trans came in at a decent price, which were the two big costs for the project. Fuel System (-8 feed, -6 return, fittings, regulator and pump) = ~$650, plus another $250-300 for the hat and another $250 for the cobra tank (I already had those two). Gauges I was able to get autometer cobalt tach, speedo, oil pressure, water temp, and volt for $450 on ebay (over $750 new) and then also bought a fuel gauge, and a new housing to fit in stock location so about $750 total for gauges. Transmission was $1600 for a 30k mile cobra trans, then another $650 for the clutch, flywheel, bolts, speedo sensors, block plate, crossmember, etc. So total of $2250 there. Exhaust was a total of about $1200. ~$530 for the long tubes, $225 for the mid pipe and $450 for the catback. All of this was bought on sale though. Swap parts are things like the ecu kit ($1500), new pedal bracket ($75), radiator hoses ($30), and accessory bracket kit to put the 94-04 v8 accessories on the coyote (so I can have power steering and AC and use coyote alternator, $520) for a total of $2100. And finally the engine. I got extremely lucky and drove a total of 9 hours round trip to get it. Its a 2015 F150 motor with 3,300 miles for $2800. Usually these go in the $3.5-4.5k range since they are the gen 2 engine and make 385hp/390tq stock. The only other major parts I need are the mustang cams ($250), cam bolts ($100), oil pan gasket ($40) and the gauge housing ($150). Right now I have a total of $9950 into it. Once I get those last parts, I'll be at a grand total of ~$10,450. Sticker price for these parts though is $11,600, so I did pretty well at black friday saving over $1000. To pay for it, I have the following funding: V6 engine sold for $2300 Turbo kit sold for $3300 T5 Gforce trans sold for $1000 Other misc bits sold for $800 Other things I don't use much anymore anohter $800 So ~$8200 in funding from selling old stuff, plus the $2k I was gonna put into the new turbo puts me right at about $10,200, so almost cost neutral.

Well, after this year I was coming to the realization that the turbo v6 wasn't quite coming to be what I was hoping for, and having done a lot of racing this past year and also getting to drive in a lot of other friends cars, I decided it was time. I was thinking of putting a new turbo on the car (~$2k when said and done) but decided to put that turbo money plus what I got for the V6/turbo kit/t5 trans to be COST NEUTRAL into the coyote swap. The old setup: A quick two evenings in the garage had everything out and ready for sale: New plan, looked at a lot of options, but I ultimately decided on a coyote engine. Looked at 03/04 cobra motors, building up a 96-98 cobra motor for the aluminum block, even thought of LS for a while, but ultimately I want to be able to get to 400whp/400wtq all motor while staying in the Ford family, and finally decided on coyote. Its a proper set up for racing with a nice broad power range, makes the power I want, and is upgradeable in the future. Not to mention parts availability. To put it in my car I need a 96-04 v8 transmission, the 96-04 engine mounts/bellhousing pattern, and it drops right into my k member with no modifications. Ford also has an aftermarket ECU available so all OEM functions (TI-VCT mainly) with new "body" harness and everything to make it run. Apparently a similar setup can get past the PATS on the stock ECU's, but for as complete a kit as the Ford Racing ecu was, and how much I was able to sell my V6 stuff for it was an easy justification. Decided to go with an F150 coyote rather than a mustang coyote engine as the main differences are only cams, oil pan gasket (mustang gets a molded in windage tray) and a drop in compression ration from 11:1 down to 10.5:1. However, the F150 motor is typically half the cost of the mustang motor which goes for around $4-6k used. I picked up a gen II motor (2015+, 11-14 is Gen 1) from an F150 in PA from a guy who bought it to put in his car, but then sold his project car. I also picked up a T56 to get some better gear ratios. Black friday shopping yielded the majority of the remaining parts, inlcuding: BBK long tube headers / BBK mid pipe for coyote swaps into 79-04 mustangs JBA 3" catback exhaust for IRS Ford Racing Coyote Control Pack Flywheel/clutch Engine mounts/necessary hardware JLT Cold Air Intake (used) off of the coyote forums New tranmission crossmember for the T56 Full Return Lines/Fittings/Fuel Pump (already had the on3 hat, just needed the new bits) Cobalt gauges (could force the stock gauges to work, but then you need to run the original PCM for just the gauges, and the new PCM for the engine, and I decided to just go to all new gauges because I got a great deal on teh set on ebay). Finally, some pictures (note: this engine is fucking huge) Other New Parts: I have pretty much all the parts on order, they will be arriving over the next few days. First I will swap out the F150 cams for the mustang cams (all four are $250 total from ford), get the oil pan gasket swapped out, and then start putting engine/trans in over december. Hopefully can get most of the big stuff done by december, and tinker with wiring/gauges for the next month or two and have it running in the spring.