Bloodember

Ah ok. I'll give him a call tomorrow, if closed Monday Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

What's his number and company? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Thanks guys, who's dyno brian? I'll give dynotune motorsports a call. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Can't get a hold of vonrottes anymore. Anyone else that can do this. I need it done this weekend. HELP!!

That's fine, will you be able to disable anything else I don't need also? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Is there a a shop in or around Columbus that can reprogram my 2005 Mustang ecm to get rid of the PATS anti theft system so I can use it in my fox?

OK, I fixed it. I just used a vise and pull the sides open on the control arm .200" now they fit.

The picture below shows my issue. Is there a secret way of getting the upper control arm over the bushing? Both are new, so not sure what is going on. thanks.

Thanks, gave him a call. I'll be dropping the housing and parts off tomorrow afternoon. Ah, gotcha.

???

I have no idea or want to destroy the new gears. So I was wondering if anyone on here or anyone know of a good place that I can take my Ford 8.8 Rear end and all the parts and have them put it together the right way. Thanks.

I paid $125 for my 8.8, I wouldn't pay much more than that if your going to take it apart and replace everything. Honestly I'd do that anyway, you have no idea what it went through before you bought it.

Finally got the Engine and transmission out this weekend. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/9288196627_62c5f84678.jpg CAM00387 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/9288196165_497dfa97e4.jpg CAM00388 by Bloodember, on Flickr Now on to fixing the floor. But first have to clean the garage, it's a mess. Going to push the car out and sweep up the floor dry and other crap all of the floor and rearrange everything to give me more room.

I was going to.

Didn't get much done two weeks ago, but this weekend I got the rest of the dash, heater assembly and most of the wiring taken out in the car. Just need to disconnect the clutch wire from the tranny so I can take that bracket out. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/9178718483_c1946974dc.jpg CAM00382 by Bloodember, on Flickr I also got all the wiring, a/c, and fuel lines disconnected from the engine. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/9180932482_b652c5f8e9.jpg CAM00383 by Bloodember, on Flickr I got the bumper off and the drive shaft out as well. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/9178717175_d09e39c320.jpg CAM00384 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3683/9180933646_29b33b373c.jpg CAM00385 by Bloodember, on Flickr I'm hoping to take the engine out next weekend, just need to clean up the garage first so there is room to sit it. The only wiring left in the car is for the tranny, which will be out when I take the tranny out with the engine. Don't feel like crawling under the car twice. The other two wires are the ones that goes along the passenger side, need to take the head liner out, I believe this wire goes to the overhead light. The last one is the drivers side one because it also hooks up to the gas tank electronics. Its out except for that, when I drop the tank I will disconnect it. On a side not if anyone needs a 2.3L 4 Cylinder with 71435 miles on it, the engine and transmission (5 speed) will be for sale once I take it out, the computer and wiring harness will be for sale also.

Worked on it some this weekend. Got the pesky bolt out, dash out and vacuumed the inside up. Started getting the engine ready to be pulled. See pics below for what i did. Hopefully get more progress done next weekend. Here's some interior shots. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5503/9064534880_a2ae34da09.jpg CAM00365 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3762/9064535050_ee5df4a1f0.jpg CAM00364 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3693/9062303983_b2baab6144.jpg CAM00367 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/9064534428_0d8b93fea3.jpg CAM00366 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5464/9062301201_775f5694b8.jpg CAM00374 by Bloodember, on Flickr Still need to get the rest of the dash area cleaned out. Hope to get that done next weekend. While I have it apart going to get a new heater core for it as well. Engine bay pics. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/9064532758_b269f04e17.jpg CAM00371 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/9064532618_a78b28f4e9.jpg CAM00372 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7421/9064531880_aae8aa2801.jpg CAM00373 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/9062303475_6d7cbdb583.jpg CAM00369 by Bloodember, on Flickr Still have quite a bit to do in the engine bay. Thinking about smoothing the engine bay. IT will be cleaned and painted black. Next weekend I hope to get all the dash area pulled, engine bay cleared out and the engine ready to be pulled.

Thinking of going with the Tremec Magnum T-56 6 speed manual tranny. Not sure about the LS yet, like to stay ford, I will check into it though and make a build list and see what price comparison is, if its significant I might go LS.

I'd like to keep it all Ford, plus I already have a 351w block. But, an LS1 does sound cool in a Mustang, so if I would go LS1 what would I have to do differently to make it work? I know a Kmember for an LS1 swap, but what about transmission and other parts?

I started the tear down this past weekend. I got the hood, bumper, fenders, doors and most of the interior out. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/8931818323_39971949e1.jpg CAM00332 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8932430874_7443119e78.jpg CAM00331 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3693/8931816537_3c0a124843.jpg CAM00333 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/9003027174_a461a6751e.jpg CAM00344 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/9003025568_5f87c6b815.jpg CAM00349 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/9003024656_87b9ed58f5.jpg CAM00350 by Bloodember, on Flickr As you can see in the above photos there is some rust on the frame, nothing that a wire wheel won't fix (I hope). Also the bolt holding the seat belt in under the rear seat on the passenger side is stuck. I broke 2 T-50 torx sockets trying to get it out. Looks like I'll have to pull the rear wheel off and inner fender to get to it so I can heat it up with a torch. I also found some rust holes, one was under the passenger seat at the outer rear bolt, the second spot was at the front by the a pillar on the drivers side. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3792/9003026720_1b30d70ea1.jpg CAM00346 by Bloodember, on Flickr This is the passenger seat spot. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3803/9003025452_99e441caa0.jpg CAM00348 by Bloodember, on Flickr Drivers side. I also noticed it is rusted through around the front part of the passenger side as well. Looks like new floors are needed. Now not sure what I want to do here. Latemodelrestoration.com (LMR) has a two piece floor pan kit for the driver and passenger side seat areas, they also have the whole dang floor from the back seats to the fire wall and is one piece. The back seat area is rust free as is the transmission tube. How hard would it be to take the two sections out and weld them in or the whole floor? I'm also in need of new front inner fender splash guards as they are broke in areas and one is missing the whole back section. I noticed no one makes replacements, which is weird. So going to have to find some used ones.

The starting point of my build is a 1990 Mustang LX hatchback with a 2.3L. I've had this since 2010 as my daily driver, I now have another car to drive so I can start my project. The car has no noticeable rust besides on the hood and left fender on the top, nothing big. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8931839351_37a6b945af.jpg CAM00280 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3682/8931837819_55907547a4.jpg CAM00283 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7406/8931837279_a2378c0ca4.jpg CAM00284 by Bloodember, on Flickr http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8419/8931836519_c01c18c8b8.jpg CAM00285 by Bloodember, on Flickr What I'll be doing to the car is a complete tear down to fix any rust or issues and an engine swap to a 351w. I'll be upgrading the suspension, brakes and wheels also. I have written up a build list to start my project and have already starting buying some of the stuff as well. Suspension, Rear End and Brakes 8.8 Rear End - I found one of these on craigslist, and it was even out of a 1990. I gutted it and had it media blasted and is in primer right now. I plan on coating it in Rust Bullet with a black top coat. For the new components for the rear end I have purchased a FRPP 31 spline traction loc differential, 3.73 gears and the installation hardware with Royal Purple 75w90 oil and ford racing friction modifier. I also bought a new pinion flange. Still need to get a pinion snubber and upper control arm bushings, I'm going with Prothane bushing though through LMR. Mosler 5 lug 31 spline axles with 94-04 flange. Purchased with seals, bearings, and 3" wheel studs. FRPP Rear Differential cover with ARP bolts purchased, I also have an Eaton breather port plug for it as well. Rear Control Arms: Yates Performance Cobra steel upper and lower control arms purchased. K-Member: UPR Tubular Mild Steel Coil Overs: UPR Maximum Rear coil overs kit for Strange shocks. Front coil overs will be UPR Pro coil over kit for strange struts. The struts will be Strange 10 way adjustable S6001EM. A Arms: UPR Chrome Moly Tubular A arms. Rack and Pinion: I'm thinking about going with a manual setup, the Flaming River 15:1 Manual Steering Rack. I've heard these are great and you have no issues steering except when not moving. Is this true? Will I have any issues? I'm told bump steer might be a problem so I have a Steeda bump steer kit for manual steering on the list. I'll be also getting UPR Caster Camper plates for the front. I also already purchased upper and lower torque boxes from UPR. Brakes: Thinking about going with Cobra brakes from a 1994-95. I also need to get some front spindles from a 94-95. If anyone has any? pm me. Also how good are manual brake compared to power? Not sure what I want to go with here. Your insight will be greatly appreciated. Wheels: I know I want to go with 17's. What width and offset should I go with? The wheels I'm thinking of are Cobra R's or the FR500's in black. Exterior and chassis To stiffen the chassis I have purchased Competition Engineering subframe connectors. As for the body I know I want a Cobra style rear wing, rear window louvers and the Trufider 1995 Cobra R hood w/ SVO scoop that is fully functional from cjponyparts.com. So I know I'll need hood pins, looking at the UPR black billet kit. Now as the body I'm thinking on a Saleen kit, just not sure yet. I will be undercoating the underside of the car and the inside of the car with Rust Bullet and top coat. As for sound deadening thinking of using Lizard skin, if I go this route I'll coat the inside with their coating and sound proofing applications. In the engine bay I'm thinking of smoothing it. It'll also be coated with Rust Bullet and top coated. Interior For the interior I plan I changing it from Red/black to full black. Many of my parts will work, the ones that won't because they are broke or messed up to badly are the rear quarter areas and truck sections, need to find these. I also need to find some door panels also, don't want to paint those. If I find a good deal on the whole interior I'll buy it, instead of painting some of my red pieces. Carpet and headliner will be new parts though. I'm also planning on deleting the rear seats with a kit I found I like from foxresto.com. It's item number 31487001 if anyone is interested. I also plan on moving the battery to the trunk area and installing a master disconnect switch, just in case. I've also purchase some UPR billet pedals in black. Seats are another concern. My drivers seat is twisted for some reason. I'm thinking of getting some 94-04 seats and putting them in, I've heard they will fit right in. Is this true? If not what will need to be fabricated? Engine Now for the engine, a 351w, I already have a block out of a 95 F150, so it is a roller cam block. my HP goal is around 650hp and I'm thinking of stroking it to a 408. I have not bought any parts for this, its still in the planning stages and everyone's insight, comments, criticism is appreciated. Heads: Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Track Heat 205. Thinking of using Edelbrock 9656 push rods, Scorpion Race Series rocker arms and the FRPP roller lifter installation kit (not sure if I need this). Pistons: Trick Flow Forged Pistons for the heads above designed for .04 over. Not sure on these as of yet. Piston rings: Mahle Performance for .04 over, item 4040MS. Crankshaft: Ohio Crankshaft forged for a 408w. Not sure on the specs of this. Connection Rods: BBC 6.2 in I-Beam Streat and Strip forged 4340. Not sure on the above rotating assembly. I'm also looking at the DSS X5 forged 408w stroker rotating assembly, not sure on the pistons though. More on what I want to do later. Camshaft: Not sure about this either since I'm turbo charging. Intake: Trick Flow R-Series with 90 mm upper. Comes with lower. Fuel Injectors: Trick Flow TFX 80# ev6. Fuel Rail: Accel DFI extruded fuel rail kit. Comes with rails, crossover lines, and pressure regulator. Not sure on this, comments would be appreciated. Distributor: MSD 8451 Pro-Billet Ready-To-Run EFI Mass Air Meter: Abaco Fully adjustable 85mm Timing Chain: Trick Flow 51478520 Harmonic Balancer: Not sure what I need here, I know the engine is a balance externally at 28 oz stock. I'm going to turbo charge so not sure what I need here. Oil Pan: Summit Racing Package CMB-08-0058 Valve Covers: Trick Flow Tall valve covers with oil fill kit. Oil Filter: Heard I should use the relocation kit for this, true? Starter: FRPP 397-M-11000-B51 Alternator: SVE 130 Amp 3G Alternator kit from LMR. Seals and Bearings: Sealed Power Competition Series Bolts: ARP Gaskets: Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal kit Engine Management System: WMS Racing with Engine harness Wideband O2: Not sure about this one, heard AEM ones aren't that great. Fuel System: Glenns Performance 1000HP Sleeper fuel tank system. Everything needed up the the fuel rails. Turbo: On 3 performance kit. Thinking of getting the 76MM ceramic ball bearing turbo for it though. Any thoughts? Underdrive Pulleys: March Performance Power and Amp Kit This is my build list. I know I'm probably missing some stuff. As for the rotating assembly, as I stated earlier, not sure what to do there, since I'm going turbo should I go with a 9.5 compression or higher or is that to high still? Thanks for all your help in advance, I know I'm going to need it. I'll keep this thread updated with pictures and what I'm doing.

Pretty sweet ride, I'm a big Mustang fan. Can't wait to see it done.

Thanks, some of the plans keep changing though, but the major parts I believe are set, unless someone sees something I don't and has advice. I've only lived here about 18 months now, just had some Pizza from Dirkos the other day, great pizza, just a little pricey.

Hi, I'm Adam I live in Mount Vernon and have a 1990 Mustang LX that I have started to do a restoration and engine swap on. This is my first restoration that I have done myself. When I was 16 My dad and I bought an 82 Mustang and restored it using two other Mustangs as donor cars, it took us about a year to do since I was paying for the majority of it. I don't have any pictures of that Mustang though, wish I did. My current Mustang as I said is a 1990 LX and right now it has a 2.3L 4 Cylinder in it. Here it is Thursday before I started the tear down. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8931839351_37a6b945af.jpg My goal for this car is around 650 rwhp. I already have a 351w engine, that I want to stroke out to 408 and turbocharge it. Its mainly going to be a toy to drive and I also want to try drag racing with it also. Here is my build list I made for the motor, not sure if everything is right yet though, if you have any feedback of any kind, I'm all ears. The motor I have is a '95 351w from an F150, so I'm pretty sure everything needs changed, but since I'm stroking it, I'm doing that anyways. Also I'm thinking of having it bored .040 over. Turbo: On3Performance 5.8L Turbo Kit (not sure about this yet, I've heard the turbo on it is too small for a 408) Under Drive Pulley System: March Performance Power and Amp Pulley Kit Heads: Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Track Heat 205 Push Rods: Edelbrock Hardened Steel Pushrods - 5/16 dia, 7.634 in. Length Rocker Arms: Scorpion Race Series part no: SCP1021BL Camshaft: Trick Flow Track Max Hydraulic Roller 51403002 (not sure on this) Pistons: Trick Flow Forged Pistons for the 514 Cylinder Heads, .040 over Piston Rings: Mahle Performance Piston Rings - 4040MS Crankshaft: Ohio Crankshaft 4.00 Stroke part no: 43514000 (this is forged) Connecting Rods: BBC 6.2 In. I-Beam Street and Strip Forged 4340 All Bearings: Sealed Power Competition Series Oil Pan: Summit Racing Package- comes with a 7 qt pan, oil pump, drive shaft and all hardware. Part no: CMB-08-0058 Timing Chain: Trick Flow Billet Steel Timing Chain Set Harmonic Damper and Counter: Trick Flow Track Max and counter weight 28 oz. ( not sure if this is right or if I should go neutral) Intake Manifold: Trick Flow R-Series upper and lower with 90mm upper Fuel Injectors: Trick Flow 80 lbs EV6 - TFS-89980 Distributor: MSD 8451 Pro-Billet Ready to Run Mass Air Meter: Abacco Fully Adjustable 85MM Starter: FRPP High Torque starter 157 tooth flywheel Fuel Tank system: Glenns Performance 1000hp Sleep Tank Fuel system (this is everything you need up to the rails) Fuel Rails: Accel DFI Extruded Fuel Rail Kit (not sure about this) Engine Management System: WMS/SDS Injection System from wmsracing.com - this is made for the 351w engine Wide Band: AEM Wideband sensor and gauge kit part: 304100 These are the major parts I am thinking of using. For the rest of the car I'm thinking of a Tremec T-56 Transmission, full Coil over kit from UPR with Strange shocks and struts, UPR K-Member, and UPR non adjustable A-Arms. The rear I already have, I have an 8.8 housing and the parts I have are a FRPP Cobra Traction Loc Dif 31 Spline with 3.73 Gears, Moser Axles with SN95 Flanges and 5 lugs. I also have upper and lower tubular control arms from Yates Performance. The front will be 5 lug as well, spindles will probably be from a 94-95 Mustang. For the brakes I want to do a full disc brake conversion, just not sure how I want to do it yet. I also have a UPR Torque box kit for the upper and lowers and Competition Engineering Frame Connectors to stiffen up the chassis. I have alot of other stuff I have written down that I'm thinking of doing to the Mustang also, if anyone wants to know I'll be glad to list them. The reason I joined is because Spool 1G told me about the site and that I should join because there are people on here that would be happy to help and or answer any questions that I may have. Thanks for reading.