Akagis_White_Comet

I replied to your email. Can't wait to see your shop and the awesomeness created within its walls firsthand.

Another option you might consider is Marshall's Auto Parts in Circleville. Just checked and they've got several 5.3s for $500 each. Mileage ranges from 89k to 130k, but they warranty everything they sell. Two nitpicky items though to keep in mind: 1. They don't pull parts until requested, so the engines are still in their donor vehicles. Given that you're looking at an engine, it would be wise to call ahead. 2. It's usually first come first serve and they can get quite busy. When I got my D585 coils from them, I was rather lucky to be heading home within 20 minutes as they had just found a set with a couple wires and still on the stock brackets.

I don't use the term often, but your neighbor is a fucking cunt! I see absolutely nothing wrong with your actions, but would LOVE to be in the audience during your cross-examination in front of the judge... Op: If you're such an automotive expert, tell the court what this device is? *points to a fuel pump* Cunt: Some car thing Repeat with various parts as well as other random items such as the motherboard from a PS2 or a soda fountain from mcdonalds Too bad you're not still in Columbus (I presume you were here at one point), as I would personally give the bitch something to whine about. What I had in mind was to come by and bounce off the rev limiter for a few minutes. A few minutes at 8000rpm, belching flames on the cunt's manicured garden while backfiring loud enough to set off EVERY car alarm within 50ft :fuckyeah: Then again, there is the Top Gear solution...

+1 for Cordell. The sheer amount of ham-fistery that occurs as a result of a parts store should warrant mandatory contraceptive use so such people are unable to reproduce :gabe: A few weeks ago, I was at the local Advance Auto and some guy swore up and down that the reason one (not both) of his high-beam headlights wasn't working was because the relay was kaput... This is why I forced myself to learn every detail of the car in order to make sound, logical choices on everything that goes into it. Automotive Literacy is a good thing

I would say that either the system is overcharged or you have air or moisture in it. If you're confident under the hood, I have a set of manifold gauges and a A/C vacuum pump that we could scope things out with.

IIRC, short cycling is caused by the high side having excess pressure, which triggers the pressure cutoff switch and disengages the compressor's magnetic clutch. Pressure then drops, which re-engages the clutch and it flip-flops between the two, hence short-cycling Excess high side pressure is usually caused by overcharging the system with refrigerant or air being in the system. My memory on the Focus is a tad fuzzy, but I do recall my niece's 03 Focus being difficult to deal with as one of the service fittings required going through the fender skirt to access.

I encountered something very similar with my RX-7 in that the clutch did not release sufficiently and had excessive pedal play at the beginning of its travel. The Clutch MC actuator rod needed to be adjusted longer in order to apply pressure sooner in the pedal's travel on the hydraulics. In effect, this pulled the Grab/Release point further up in the pedal's travel. For the sake of clarity, let's assume that the entire pedal travel is 50mm (2"). These probably aren't the exact numbers, but illustrate the idea better than an abstract direction. If the clutch is releasing when you press the pedal down 12.5mm (1/2") instead of at 25mm (1"), the actuator rod needs to be adjusted shorter to pull the grab/release point closer to the floor. Once the grab point is at the proper point in the pedal's travel, then adjust the pedal play. For my RX-7, 1-2mm of pedal play is within spec. Also, I would highly recommend purchasing a speedbleeder for the clutch slave cylinder. For $5, it turns a tedious, boring 2-person job into a quick and simple task you an accomplish with zero help.

Engine is fine and is going from a base map to something that won't flood/stall/lean spike for no reason. Talked to Logan today and I'm waiting on a call back as he was understandably quite busy with a customer's car on the dyno. I really need some help with this ASAP so I can get to work on monday.

I'm having some issues with my 20B-REW powered FC RX-7 flooding itself and/or stalling due to an overly rich mixture (low 12s at idle). Attempting to lean it out in Haltech's ECU Manager has simply led to the engine stalling, so I am a bit confused on what the issue specifically is. Are there any local guys with RX-7s whom have solid experience with standalones? I would greatly appreciate one such person taking a look at my settings and datalogs to get me on the correct path to making the car behave properly. The level of expertise applicable would be approximately that of a FD owner as it is the closest sibling to my 20B. thanks, Travis

Starting/charging issues come up often when dealing with RX-7's, so the community came up with a simple way to test both while on the vehicle using just a voltmeter placed on the battery terminals. If you don't have one, go to Harbor Freight and get one $3. Engine off: 12.6v (Battery voltage when fully charged) Ignition ON (not running): 12.5-12.6v Cranking: 10.0v+ Engine running: 13.5-15.0v Under 13.5 when running means the alternator is dying or not connected properly. Over 15.0 means the voltage regulator has failed or is disconnected. Don't attempt to drive with a dead VR, you WILL fry the big, expensive parts like your ECU. My experience shows that 9 times out of 10, it is the alternator dying from being overworked. 86-88 RX-7s are especially known for this, and was the first issue I encountered, so my standard go-to cure is to hit the junkyard and grab one from a Pre-1996 Taurus or comparable Windstar with a 3.8L OHV engine. As for the remaining 1/10 of failure, it was from an Autozone battery dropping like a rock to 7.2v when cranking as it just had no grunt left in it. Car actually sounded like Lassie when cranking :lolguy: Replaced the junk battery with a Deka Intimidator and she fired up on the first try.

Building an ECU...sounds like a huge undertaking and is a bit beyond me at the moment, especially since I'm not too good with a soldering iron yet. If I had more practice with an iron, building a Megasquirt would be fun to do. But for now, I'm plenty happy with my Haltech PS2K. Just yesterday, I added a Knock-based ignition retard circuit based on a GM ESA box from a Chevy Astro and a 7:1 voltage divider I designed to reduce the output voltage down from 5v to 2.5v so the Haltech would read the stock Mazda knock sensors correctly. It pulls both leading AND trailing ignition timing when the voltage input the circuit resides on drops below 2.5v (during knock). Total cost to build the circuit: $4 However, I do have an impressive project on the sketchbook right now. It is well known that the FC's coolant temperature gauge sender is poor at best and most owners Series 5 (89-91)'s are especially bad, having essentially three positions: Cold, Warmed up and New Engine. This behavior has most owners add a new gauge based on a separate sender. This duplication of functions just seems in poor taste to me, so I did the wiring groundwork throughout the car to accommodate something better.... So I built a device that generates signals for every gauge that could reasonably be used in a RX-7, both stock and aftermarket, as the first part of a BIG upgrade. Using this device, I discovered that all of the gauges respond quite slowly... So I designed a new gauge cluster from scratch. All the stock gauges from both the N/A & Turbo FC are present (Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temperature, Fuel Level, Voltmeter & Boost), along with the ever-important Air/Fuel Ratio. Thanks to the way I've designed the cluster, it can use any sensor I want for any function. A prime example of this is already on the car now as its coolant temperature sensor is from a LS2 Corvette. I did this because it was cheaper than the original Mazda part, is threaded identically (M12x1.5) and the appropriate connector can be found at the same parts store as the sensor on a daily basis anywhere in North America. While I do have the electrical specifications for the stock sensor, its connector is a bit more difficult to find as I've not yet identified its manufacturer (another side project). Anyway, back to the story. Entirely digital cluster, fits the car's character & period, accepts any sensor input with the proper code/electrical scaling and can be reflashed for different sensors in 15 minutes with just a USB cable. The only part that would be carried over is the stock odometer for legal reasons as well as simplicity due to the HUGE amount of effort required to build code for a digital odometer properly. FDs use a 93C56 memory chip for storing/recalling the mileage. Although I could crack its encryption and reverse-engineeer its code structure with a few data dumps of chips in clusters of varying mileage (SNES & PS2 save hacking is a fun pasttime), it would take just as long to build code to read/write to the chip in the same manner. Much simpler to retain the stock odometer using a couple in-family parts and some electrical wizardry via a stepper motor or stepper encoder depending on how I do it, it's still on the drawing boards for the time being. I think in ohms...

Greetings everyone, I am Akagis_White_Comet. Been in Central Ohio since I was a year old, but moved to Columbus last November and finally got on here after being referred by ObliqueFD. My normal haunt is the RX7club as a forum moderator and general beacon of hope for N00bs of the Rotary Engine. My overall specialty is anything regarding wiring, circuits and whatnot, the vast majority having been designed for or implemented on my heavily modified 1987 RX-7. Okay, here are some pics: When I brought her home: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-when-i-brought-her-home-54457.jpg Over at ObliqueFD's place shortly after: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-hanging-out-obliquefds-ssm-fd-54458.jpg Under the hood back then... http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-such-humble-beginnings-54459.jpg How she looks today on the outside: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-fd-wheels-54460.jpg And what I've done to her: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-twin-turbo-vacuum-overhaul-7051-picture-complete-vacuum-system-after-overhaul-53627.jpg The only thing I've not touched is the Power Steering :gabe: