owndjoo

Jared over at CIAPerformance 🤘🏻🤘🏻

For those looking for a great rifle, plenty of .243 ammo still available around town too.

Well, it was there. Not seeing on their site anymore.

This is the 1st gen 9” VIS2 AK. They have the BLEM ones there on the website for $529.

BNIB VLTOR upper with barrel nut, wrench and hardware. VIS2-AK with forward assist $475 can build to complete upper as needed as well.

BNIB VLTOR upper with included barrel nut, wrench and hardware. Awesome rare piece. Message me for pictures. $475

BNIB gen 1 RPR in .243 win. $1000

Sold

Selling the project I started a while back. 2006 Triumph 675 28k miles salvage title. Will need a headlight at the minimum, preferably with bodywork to pass inspection for rebuilt. Ignition is trashed, has a woodcraft key eliminator installed, easily reversible with new ignition set. Has taillight and fender eliminator with plate light. Levers, stainless lines, frame sliders, jardine exhaust, motohlders stay. slap on track bodywork and you’re set for the track too. asking $2500obo

years of racing motocross beforehand would have probably had a benefit with all of that. Going to lightweight helps as well, going straight into 600s is asking for trouble there. Had to relearn on the in-line . I definitely would say I’m a bit of an outlier for sure, as anyone around long enough here knows lol. 

Double post

True, I did the WERA race school On my street bike having never been on a track. Got a race SV and showed up tonWERa race and podiumed lol. Won 3 Nationals 2 races later and swept the regional titles. Track days definitely aren’t needed to get into racing. Biggest thing is knowing track etiquette, flags, rules, etc.

Well got it all running, mainly looking for fairings now. If anyone has some I’ll take em lol

This! I started racing on an SV and loved it, learned a lot about carrying speed and race craft. But at track days every goon on a 600+ will fly by on the straights and park you in the corners. And then riding them in advanced gets dicey with the speed differences imo.

It’s super easy to balance. Buy a trueing stand and the heavy side will rotate to the bottom. Slap some weight on the opposite side and check again. It’s an art to learn how much weight is needed. When done slap some black duct tape over the weights. Same way we’ve done it at the racetrack. if you do decide to sell your street stuff, I may be interested.

Drop $1k obo. Still sitting in the box waiting to be broken in y’all.

Picked up a 675 salvage bike and looking for some parts.All Plastics, ignition, and fairing stay/ramair. Will be looking to resell once I get it all sorted and ready to rock if anyone is interested.

I have a 1st gen Ruger Precision Rifle in .243 WIN BNIB never used. $1100 obo.

Located about 12 miles North of Bellefontaine. Near Indian Lake and not too far from any of the Honda plants. 3 acres with room for a large garden. Good size garage/shop area. Everything I have is negotiable as I will be going overseas for a period. Zero turn mower, furniture, tv's, desks, beds, etc. Even have a toy hauler camper haha. Just outside of a nice little small town with both Kenton and Bellefontaine nearby for restaraunts/shopping. https://www.zillow.com/homes/1665-State-Route-273-W,-Belle-Center,-OH-43310_rb/13_zm/

Strong men fight, leading to good times, good times create weak men, weak men lead to bad times, bad times create strong men..... so on and so forth. It's the cycle of 1st world society. When life is easy, people start to worry about all these petty things. Literally make up stuff to stir drama. But when the SHTF, this stuff all disappears and the real, strong people of the country emerge to fight, patriotism is restored. Then it all starts over again.

You'll be surprised at how much you actually are loading the front tire by just letting off the throttle and rotating into the lean. This is also where having proper sag/preload settings will keep the weight where it needs to be. The only time your front end is "not fully loaded" is when you are hard on the throttle with the rear end squatting. This is why it can be difficult to get the turn started on a WFO kink. The geometry is different and the front tire doesn't have much weight/influence on the bike. Some places I will roll off for a split second as I put input to the bars and immediately back WFO. That is another part of hard braking to remember, when the front is collapsed, your rake/trail numbers go more aggressive and the bike will turn in quickly.

picking a braking and turn in point is going to be the best way to be consistent and adjust your entry speed. Something that I really started working on once I got a track figured out, was actually braking less and less. I've always been a big corner speed guy and focus on entry and mid corner speed. I used to brake hard and late all the time, but that tends to mess up entry speed and unsettle the chassis. Something I like to do is keep my braking point the same, but brake less and turn in a touch earlier and turn in quicker. Try to get to full lean earlier and earlier each lap and carrying that speed through the corner. I used to hit full lean at the apex a lot of times, but have gotten more focused on braking while up and down and throwing the bike to full lean immediately at turn in. Now, you have to adjust the entry based on each corner. You have to plan out setup, entry, mid corner, and exit based on what is coming next and trying to connect everything. I found at mid ohio that on a 600 I could actually not touch the brakes in T1 and T2 and turn in waaaay earlier than I ever used to. The engine braking on the back shifts provided enough scrubbing of speed and front end load. But in racing things change as well when overtaking or preventing being overtaken, this is where using the previously developed late braking markers come in handy.

LOL, I doubt Nationwide would care. We aren't even allowed to take clients to anything dealing with firearms... I'm sure they don't want any liability, but with these kinds of new laws allowing people to sue those that infringe on their 2A rights.....

As a USAF Instructor, I can come up with a few. The long-term reliability of these weapons isn't there. We have M9's that break the lugs in the breach after a while, which is a huge PITA. The double action/single action is trash for the first round accuracy, yes I understand the safety aspect of this. The weight and grip size is another issue for smaller shooters combined with the heavy double-action initial pull. The P320 is striker fired, lightweight polymer frame, extremely modular in use for all who may use it.( many currently carry a Sig M11 for concealed duty now) The ability to change grip size to fit shooters and ability to change calibers based on mission needs is nice as well.

the FN SCAR. This is the epitome of a modular combat rifle system. One system that can be configured for many different units/missions as needed. The ability to run different calibers while keeping the rifle basics the same. The flexibility of this system is phenomenal. It would be easy to bring into our forces as you can run it in 5.56mm and 7.62mm as well as others. This helps with using the current ammo with a phasing in of the change.