flounder

Trust me.. Its nationwide.. I spoke with the underwriters... When does your policy renew because thats when it takes effect.

Google is your friend. http://home.comcast.net/~petej/compare.45acp.45gap.htm

Buyer?

I had already told everyone in one of the other threads to beware of this. State Farm completely re-vamped their motorcycle policy rating structure to be more in line with the other insurance providers. Everyone needs to be ready for higher rates with them even if you already have a policy...

Its nerd talk for us computer geeks. When working with low level programming languages, allot of times you have to use the HEX value when coding #FF0000 is the HEX value for Red #0000FF is the HEX value for Blue And for the all your base belong to us part of the cake. Its referencing this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qItugh-fFgg

Sounds like your friend is full of BS.. Shifters, and clutch and brake locations are standard and have been for ever...unless you have something custom built.. Tell him to tell you the real story.

Oh shit.. I was thinking of a different chris since your in columbus.. yeah that chris is a great guy. Him and his dad are super nice. he used to be on here all the time but he doesnt come around much more. . 35 motorsports is on the south side of indianapolis. His shop is at his house. He did the work on my bike when I tossed it down the track at 80+ and totaled it. He rebuilt and straighted my forks, triple tree, rotors, rims, etc.. and re welded the subframe tabs on my frame that I snapped off during the crash. http://www.35motorsports.com/

Loosing the shift rod is never fun but try it on the back straight at mid ohio when you go to downshit at the end and there is nothing there.. nice pucker factor.. Happened to me not once but twice. As far as tearing the motor apart yourselves, make sure you know what your doing or my suggestion would be to take the entire bike to Rueben at 35 motorsports.. Probably the best motor guy around and could probably give you a good idea of what the problem is without tearing it apart... I seriously suggest taking it to him.. At the minimum at least call him and see what he says and get an estimate.. It will be worth it... Trust me. ..Dont risk your buddies mechanical abilities on your bike.

Chris Clever? If so, get his cell number for me as I lost it. Havent seen that guy in years.

The milsurp stuff is best but you can shoot the 30-06 ammo with out worry as long as it is M2 ball rated or the Hornady 30-06 Match M1 Garand ammo. The reason against commercial 30-06 is that depending on what manufacturer and load it is, it tends to burn slower creating more pressure which could potentially hurt the gas operated cycling system in the M1 (generally the result is bending the operating rod.) Also, when buying milsurp you want to try and stick with the non corrosive variant.

Make sure its 7.62x51 and not 7.62x (39,42,54) etc.

Its OAL I changed it.. Overall Length.. NEVER shoot 5.56 in a .308... 7.62x51 is ok. Also, the higher pressure issue only comes into play when loading at max loads or above.

I have posted this same response before when the 5.56 vs .223 question was asked. It has to do with different chambers and pressures for the round. At one time there was a bit of difference in cartridge lenght between the .308 and 7.62x51 however, now, the case dimensions are the same. Winchester and the US influenced NATO to move to the .308 as the std round. But... they changed the designation to the std decimal 7.62 x 51. Although the dies and in most cases, the OAL is the same, there are some pressure differences that make the rounds different. (OAL = Overall Lenght) These days, both are interchangeable. Read here for unsafe cartridge defs. http://www.saami.org/Unsafe_Combinations.cfm

+1 my guess..

My bikes sit for months and dont do that shit.. Sounds like you may have a problem my friend.

Just saw this.. for the kind of money your looking to invest, for a few pennies more, you could get something custom built or for about the same price you could get a used custom gun.. I would stay away from the .338 just for the cost of reloading and personally would not get either of the rifles or scopes your looking at.. I can run through some things with you that would really help you but it would be way easier to do on the phone. For example. What distances are you looking to shoot? Are you looking to hunt with it eventually and if so what type of game at what distance. Are you looking to compete with it? (Benchrest or F-class, (heavy gun, light gun, 600yd, 1000 yard?) All things to keep in mind.. You need to be realistic with yourself about how often you will be able to shoot past 100 or 300 yards. Very few ranges have anything past that and even then, 500,600 yards isnt that much of a challenge once you get into it. (Unless your going for groupings) Your budget should also include reloading supplies as off the shelf ammo will not meet your needs at long distances and is about 3x as expensive to buy vs reload yourself. How often do you think you will shoot it past 300 yards each year? (I say 300 because big darby is 20 min from columbus and has a 300 yard range. I am using a .308 and hitting targets at 1165 yards without too much trouble. Wind is usually the culprit for the miss. When shooting long range, the wind from your shooting position is usually different from the target location. I had my barrel threaded for a muzzle brake as well. Remember 1000 yards is .56 mile away. I currently shoot with the world record holder for best 5 shot group at 1000 yards (1.4 inches) The guys I shoot with have everything from .308, 300WSM, 300Winmag, 300Hulk (Only 4 in existence), 7mm mag, 338 Lapua, .50BMG, and 408 Cheytac. All of them have their + and -. I have shot almost all of the above rifles and have shot at ranges out to 1 mile (1760 yards) and I can tell you what kind of rifle/shooter it takes to do it. I will send you a pm with my number if you want to discuss. Some other things you will surely want once your in it are Hardigg Storm case for storing the rifle. (200 Cleaning supplies are not cheap.. We tend to use more quality tools. bi pod (100) Cronograh (100-300) handheld weather station (about 200 for a decent one but not the most expensive version) Spotting scope (estimate 400+ for a low end model easily up to 2K + for a nice one. ) Laser range finder capable of at least 800 yards. $500 (Ideally you want one that will do 1000+ yards etc etc. I see your profile says Florida but if your in columbus, you really should come to the next tactical shoot with me and actually get a chance to shoot some of the guns I mentioned and talk to everyone. Its just that there are so many things to consider. If you come, I will load up some extra rounds and let you shoot mine and show you what its like to shoot at 500-1000 yards. Hell even if you want to drop by one day, I could go through some things with you. You mentioned that ammo was 50-70 for 20 so something to keep in mind is that at the matches, we easily shoot 60-100 rounds per match. Reloading yourself is a MUST in this sport. For scopes, I would recomend a Nightforce. Specifically the 8-32x56 NXS or the 5.5-22x56 NXS (http://www.nightforceoptics.com) For the reticle, I would suggest the NP-R1, NP-R2 or the MLR If memory serves me correctly, we met up at mid ohio last year during one of the first track days when you were looking for lizard?

Just remove the "flip=1" at the end of the link after you click the video.

I dont see what your talking about.

Yes he can do it all and he can even straighten forks if they are not too bad. Call him.

Please post what type of work you do. I will always try and help out with the job hunt. If it wasnt for people helping me, I wouldnt have the job I have now. If I can help with job opportunities, I will.

If I were going to get motor work done, Reuben is the only person I would let do it.

This seems to answer your question as well.. just read it. Question? Cold water boils faster than hot water. If hot water freezes faster, maybe cold water boils faster! Again, this defies common sense—and again, say scientists, it’s simply wrong. Hot water from the tap should in fact boil much faster than cold water. However, using hot water for boiling does not actually save any energy. You may use less gas (or electricity) on the stovetop, but your water heater will have used the same amount of energy to heat the water in the first place. (If you use solar energy to heat your water, of course, that’s a different story.) Some water heaters may introduce additional sediment into the water, giving you another reason to consider starting with cold—at least, if time is not of the essence. Taken from http://itotd.com/articles/521/water-freezing-and-boiling-myths/

Welcome back fury one.. Missed you.

This is a helluva deal.. Quit asking for him to throw in more shit..

Its $25 per wheel.. Dont forget the $5 per tire disposal fee.