Nick

I know of someone who can help you out - both getting the parts, and installing them. Pm me if you ar interested.

Try a brake parts cleaner, and a degreaser to make sure the surface is really clean. Also, go to jegs and buy the VHT brake paint. Good stuff.

You may have a crank or cam sensor ready to shit on ya.

Matt, gimmie a ring when you wanna replace it.

Go to Hensler Racing. Same place where the Brians Dyno is. He owns the fastest nitrous modular mustang in the country. Not only does he ONLY work on mustangs, he also races them and can cater to all your needs. 740-964-9747. Just on the east side outside of 270.

Ditto - See Mike up there. or jay.

My roommate has the falken azenis, 265/35/18 on his car, and they handle great in wet and dry conditions. He has a 2002 Camaro SS, and it handles great and has very little road noise. Traction doesnt seem to be a problem. I'd buy a set......

A good friend of mine is Todd Wilt. As far as I know, there is no one in the country better at customizing toyotas better than he. Call his shop, 317-823-0809.Tell him you know Nick and Greg in cols.....

Jegs stocks the Bell-tech drop shocks. its a shorter shock for lowered trucks. Also, check your bump-stops. You may be bouncing off of them. My sonoma was, and cutting them down solved the issue.

Yes, Cometics are the shit. Hold well to boost, nitrous, and detonation as well. You say $$$$$, but how much did that turbo kit cost again........ go arp head studs and a cometic gasket. I assume you have a block guard?

Damn, quit driving 300 miles a day and you wont have that problem. Are you in 4wd full time? have severely low tire pressure? Check 02 sensors, they may need replaced. Dont buy any aftermarket shit that claims gas milage increases.

There is a new Modular Motor shop in town, specializes in mod motors. Check out James Hensler at Hensler Racing. East side of town and does everything. Hensler Racing - 740-964-9747

I have a large geated garage. But then again, I am a wal-mart shopper......

I have used all kinds of tires in the buick when I used to race it. I never ran a regular street tire on the car, as punching the gas and going sideways at 65 scared me. If you are a "roll" racer, go with the nittos. The stiffer sidewall will be more stable at 120+ mph. There are people on BFGs going 9's. with 1.4X 60' times. These are the best "dig" tires, IMHO. Stay away from et streets, M&H racemasters, hoosier QTs, as these might be a "dot" tire, they dont like turns. The BFGs are a synthetic compound from Chile. They are very sticky, and therefore dont last long when doing burnouts, ect. I usually got about 3k miles out of a set of 275/50/15s, and the T-type was the weekend car. Ok, sure, the weekends it spend its time at charter st, and NTR. But I usually got 1.5, 1.6 60' times. The nittos best 60' I ever got was a 1.74. They never hooked as well as the bfgs. They required a John Force burnout to get sticky. And still didnt compare to the BFGs. I race at alot of NMRA races, when they have a drag radials class. 90% of them use BFGs. In conclusion, The BFGs age the better tire for drag racing. As for roll racing, the buick wasnt very successful at it. Well, from what I hear it did beat Kyles RX-7 before I guess it depends how you drive. If you want a short lived sticky drag tire, buy a BFG. If you want a "better-than-a-regular-radial-tire", buy a nitto. It will handle better than a BFG on turns and in aggressve driving. OK, I'm done. Nick I'm really a BFG spokesperson in disguise

Let the car sit running in the same spot for a few minutes. If the water pump is bad, water will leak out the seep hole. Chances are you might not overheat the motor in this weather because its cold, and you have your heater on cooling the coolant anyhow. Just an extra idea. also, pull your dipstick out. Take a lighter to the oil. If it pops and cracks, you have water in your oil. That is bad. Cool way to weld bearings.

Well, you need to convert the fuel system from injected to carb'd. Read - F.I. = high psi, like 40lbs carb'd = low psi, like 7lbs. Other than that, not too hard.

Keep the 5w20 in it. Its piss like quality and weight is what helps lubricate the 4 foot long timing chains.

Make sure you hone the block, and install new bearingsand oil pump. If your gonna tear it apart, might as well replace a few things to make it last.

I just bought the complete exhaust off his new car. Hes got kooks as a vendor now, and they are making him some custom shit. Oh, the tune in his car came from me. Was worth .25 over his tune. Hes running a TEC-3 as well. We were both some of the first people to get the TEC-3 las summer.I have #62 and #81 of the first 100 that were produced. Yeah, they were free......

I am probably one of the only ones on the board who has expierence in tuning and installing stand alone systems. There are many out there, and for ease of installation/use, go with the FAST system. Very easy to use and tune. If you are gonna go all out and spend all kinds of crazy money on the car, Might as well use a stand alone. It will get rid of your speed limiter, and you can set your rev limiter to whatever you like. Now, since you are building a modular car, there are lots of things you can do to make more power. I'm personal friends with the tyminskis, Tyminskis Thats a good start.

What trans? e40d? I know a great guy in Akron that builds HP trannys, but a local guy in town I trust is Metro Transmissions, corner of agler and steltzer in gahanna.

Kenny cars made 388hp/520lbs on its 3rd pass, with flames coming out the exhaust on 94 octane This was a FFI on their dyno day, they fucked up the first 2 pulls and got the 3rd right, I have dynoed 441/622 on race fuel (117) 22* timing and 28lbs of boost

Turbo buicks didnt use a water cooled turbo, FYI.....

Dude, you have a luxury car. Why remove the luxury? Thats like me taking the climate control, power windows and locks, TV, DVD player, stereo, and leather out of my cadillac. Why? Doesnt make much sense to me. I understand the want/need to go faster, but why ruin a nice car for a few tenths?

Dude, they are like $200 new, or just buy the rebuild kit. Jegs stocks them.