cattmouch33

May '08, mostly lurk these days

I run by this place on my break. might have to stop in sometime

Update He dropped the price to $2,850.00

I'm listing this for my brother in law. PM me for the contact information. http://dayton.craigslist.org/mcy/4583585203.html 2011 CBR250R ABS w/Yoshimura Mods/Extras $3,300 (65+ MPG!!) For sale by owner (1 owner) with clean OH title. Full coverage insurance cost me $165/year. This motorcycle is perfect for new riders and is very easy to control. See below to learn more about the modifications and extras this bike comes with - will not sell separately (all goes or nothing - $3,300 firm). The fuel-injected Honda CBR250R offers everything you want in a first-time bike: Light weight. A powerband that's immensely user-friendly. Excellent fuel economy. Unmatched reliability. And a fun factor that's off the chart. Since the CBR250R is a Honda, it's full of features few other bikes in its class can match. And it offers a build quality that means you've got dependable cross-town or cross-country transportation. ___BIKE SPECS 2011 Honda CBR250R with ABS Condition: Very good-excellent (well maintained/never dropped). Mileage: 9,265 MPG: 65+ 249cc four-stroke single-cylinder engine / 6 speed Electric start Fuel-injected Combined ABS Digital dashboard/instrument panel 3.4 gallon tank Liquid cooled 2 seater ___MODIFICATIONS (All purchased new) Yoshimura full system racing exhaust ($499) Yoshimura programmable PIM-2 power commander ($299) Yoshimura fender eliminator ($99) Honda racing tank pads ($39) ___GEAR (All purchased new) Jacket: AVG-Sport textile-vented jacket with protection ($199). Helmet: BELL with graphics (forget model name - $229). ___OTHER EXTRAS (Probably worth $120) Official Honda service repair manual 2 oil filters 2 oil filter rings 2 spare oil filter housing bolts 1 gallon Honda oil 1 air filter Honda coolant Honda brake fluid Gear oil ___OTHER Recently purchased new stock tires and a new battery.

finally got the new battery in and installed. fired right after install and the bike sitting for 4 months. I want to let the cold soak in and test again.

Dustin, how the hell did you get yours already. I ordered one from stark power on Oct 14th. Still waiting on it, said he's having supply issues. I'll post back when I finally get it and can test the battery out. It sure is cold enough here to test its low temp qualities.

so finally got the right part after the 3rd try and tried to bleed but no fluid is moving through just air. I'm getting bubbles though, I've borrowed brad's vaccuum bleeder to see if that will help. any other ideas the vaccuum pump from brad worked, I have brakes again. Apparently I should I known that I needed to bench bleed the new MC first. Now just waiting on the battery from Starkpower

Dustin were you looking at the ultra or the ultra start from Stark. One has more battery management features, I'm contacting the company to see what the difference is in the internal cell management for the different batteries. If you order from Stark let me know your opinion. I'm looking for a new one as my current battery took a crap yesterday. The stability would be very nice.

So I thought this time since I checked to make sure I ordered the right part I would be up and running.....nope. The master cylinder kit listed for the front and confirmed by dustin that should be right isn't even close. The bottom is the old and the top is the new, just the metal piece doesn't even fit without the spring. I tried cleaning everything again and reassembling. I get fluid through the lines but can't build pressure, confirms bad master. Looks like I need to find a whole replacement master now. on a good note I did confirm the lever is the way it should be minus the pin bushing not fitting. The other bushing doesn't transfer over. It fits but need brakes to work to test everything.

the bushing with the acctuator is in the old lever, the shoulder pin screw I'm holding in the second pic. The bushing from the old lever will not fit in the new lever. The shouldern pin screw fits nicely though

So couple of questions, yeah I know finally getting around to this, Clutch lever went in no problem. On the brake lever there are issues. I thought I was supposed to reuse the bushing from the old lever to the new one. Well the bushing doesn't fit at all. The pin screw that goes inside it does fit but that's it. Then the bushing with the pin hole in it doesn't fit at all. That's the issue with the lever and all part numbers match to what its supposed to be. The master cylinder rebuild kit apparently is for the rear. Yeah I know I should have looked closer. But I checked the order and it doesn't specify front or back. So I cleaned out the old MC and put everything back together. When I pull the lever it just stays down it doesn't pop back. Is this because there is no fluid in it the MC assembly does pop back when I have it off the bike. New SS rear line went on without a problem and bleed nice and easy. Any ideas. I really want to ride more this year.

So, getting back to this. The master cylinder has a leak. I've got a rebuild kit coming along with HEL SS lines and PSR levers. Should arrive today and Hopefully riding again by the weekend. I assume taking apart the MC and putting it back together is just take pictures of where everything went and put it back the same way. Anything else need to be done?

Bout 2 yrs ago, just haven't ridden a lot since my son was born. Probably a good time to change the coolant. Oil was changed in march, That at least gets done on a schedule.

Yeah so I should have done this a long time ago. this was the front after running through all the lines. I did it again after this to make sure everything was clean. I have brakes again.

I'll replace the fluid this weekend. I really hope it's just air in the lines. I think I might just get the SS lines and new levers I was planning on getting this summer now. 2005 zx6r

new as of 2006, also even when trying to pump the lever it doesn't get any better

questions about troubleshooting brakes. I went for a ride yesterday and there is almost nothing to the front brake. It doesn't even feel engaged until 1/2" from the bar. Rear is solid and both reservoirs are full. pads still looks good on the front and I can't find any leaks. I didn't ride a lot last year( I think 3 times) would that cause an issue with the fluid in the lines. Would my 1st step be new fluid, then try new pads and lines? Should the rotors be changed at the same time as the pads? Sorry for all the questions, I was just a little unnerved yesterday when I felt almost no brake. Any help is appreciated, I actually have time to ride this year and I don't want my brakes to screw that up.

getting my 8 week oil change

Metzeler M5s, Samsung 55" LED tv, Transformer Prime. I can finally ride again -

Welcome from an X tipp guy. Just mind the vandalia police