Break Lever Pressure

[Jst2fst]

Just like the title says I've have a question about the pressure in the break lever. I changed out my front breaks for some braided lines an I got the lines bleed to both calipers no air. I'm just noticing a slight drop in the way the lever felt after I was done. The breaks engage and the wheel stops quick when its on the stands. I'd just like a little insight in this.

[whaler]

You should have a noticeably firmer lever after braided stainless lines are installed. It may not seem like air could still be trapped in the lines, but it is there.

Try to bleed a few more times and see if it firms up.

After bleeding, pull the lever to the bar (after relieving pressure at the bleeder), and zip tie the lever and leave it overnight (make sure you re-tighten the bleeder). Pump it up i the morning and see if it did not help the lever feel.

Last thing to try...

Crack the banjo bolt at the master cylinder while pulling the lever (just like bleeding at the caliper), but do not crank on it...gentle pull and see if you get air (retighten the bolt before letting go of the lever). Make sure you cover the entire area with rags, and I would cover the bolt when you crack it and pull the lever. More than likely you have air trapped at the master banjo where the two lines attach.

[Jst2fst]

I'm gonna try an do it again an see what happens in a few I might just have to buy a bleeder kit.

[Strictly Street]

You should have a noticeably firmer lever after braided stainless lines are installed. It may not seem like air could still be trapped in the lines, but it is there.

Try to bleed a few more times and see if it firms up.

After bleeding, pull the lever to the bar (after relieving pressure at the bleeder), and zip tie the lever and leave it overnight (make sure you re-tighten the bleeder). Pump it up i the morning and see if it did not help the lever feel.

Last thing to try...

Crack the banjo bolt at the master cylinder while pulling the lever (just like bleeding at the caliper), but do not crank on it...gentle pull and see if you get air (retighten the bolt before letting go of the lever). Make sure you cover the entire area with rags, and I would cover the bolt when you crack it and pull the lever. More than likely you have air trapped at the master banjo where the two lines attach.

What he said, and^^^^^

How to bleed brakes on a bike.

This of course must be done while swearing loudly and throwing wrenches across the garage or across the street if you have no garage. Hopefully there is a small child nearby to be scarred for life with your language.

To save a small child from a life of crime here is my non-patented, DIY, your totally on your own, no guarantees express or implied, way of not going crazy trying to get the job done.

Air trapped at the banjo or the split for the dual brake lines or caught in any other area can be a real pain in the a$$ to get rid of.

First, the air can get back into the lines if you fumble tightening the bleeder nut or have any other real world problem reaching both the brake lever and the bleeder nut at the same time while trying to not tip over the bike or squirt brake fluid all over your nice paint job. This is most likely the reason you were throwing wrenches in the first place.

Go to LOWE's or the like and pick up 6 feet of clear plastic tubing that fits over the bleeder nut snugly. ($2)

Attach it to the bleeder nut leaving room to get a wrench on the nut without removing the tubing.

Loop the tubing up over the handlebars at least as high as the brake Reservoir if not a few inches higher. You can get the end into a container of some sort to control the overflow.
(See the pic - classic photoshop eh?)


+++++++++

WARNING!!!!!

Brake fluid eats paint and discolors plastic and is very bad for anything else it touches!!!!

BE CAREFUL BRAKE FLUID WILL SQUIRT OUT OF THE RESERVOIR WHEN YOU SQUEEZE THE LEVER!!

DON'T LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY AS THAT IS SUCKING AIR IN FROM THE TOP.

+++++++++


Now you can crack loose the bleeder nut and fill up the Reservoir. Notice the the fluid in the tube settles to a level and the air bubbles rise to the top.

Here is where this method really works out. The air cannot get sucked back into the lines as it just rises through the fluid in the tube. SO with a few squeezes you get almost all the air out.

Now for those nasty banjo and splitter air pockets. With a little practice with your now sealed but still open brake system. You can now have fluid flow in both directions to and from the master cylinder. Use this to 'rock' the air bubbles out. Small gentle pulls on the lever are all you need.

After you think you have it, just close the bleeder nut, recap the Reservoir and give it a try. Not happy with the results? Do it again. Over time you will get all the air out.

Do the same thing for the other side.



Good luck! Edited May 25, 2013 by Strictly Street

[Jst2fst]

Yea, definitely some swearing was said. I had some good pressure on one side then moved over to the other an that's when it took a shit. Was planning on riding today but who knows now.

[NinjaNick]

Last thing to try...

Crack the banjo bolt at the master cylinder while pulling the lever (just like bleeding at the caliper), but do not crank on it...gentle pull and see if you get air (retighten the bolt before letting go of the lever). Make sure you cover the entire area with rags, and I would cover the bolt when you crack it and pull the lever. More than likely you have air trapped at the master banjo where the two lines attach.

When i installed my lines, I had to do this. Instant perfection after.:woo:

[Jst2fst]

I have pressure a lot of air came out I the left line. Used the tube over the bars method took a picture and wa pretty damn shocked. Right side is good an I'm gonna get to the rear in a bit. Thanks guys for the help

[mello dude]

I like the over the handle bar tube suggestion....

But anyhoo, the magic helper parts are:

SB8125L --- Worth every penny. I wont even attempt to do a bleed it job without them.